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ANNUAL REPORT 



CAPTAIN A. A. HUMPHREYS, 



TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 



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IK CHAHQB OF 



OFFICE OF EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS. WAR DEPARTMENT 



DECEMBEE, 1858. 



WASHINGTON: 

1859. 



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REPORT FROM THE OFFICE OF EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS. 



War Department, Office Explorations and Surveys, 

Washington^ November 20, 1858. 

Sir: 1 submit the following annual report upon the operations of 
the department carried on under this office. 

I. — the experiment of sinking artesian wells upon the public lands. 

In my last annual report to the department (November 30, 185T,) 
it was stated that the expedition to continue 'the experiment of sink- 
ing artesian wells upon the public lands, assigned by the department 
to Captain John Pope, Topographical Engineers, under instructions 
of May 5, arrived at the former camp on the Pecos on the 2d of Sep- 
tember, 1857, and resumed work upon the well which had been bored to 
the depth of eight hundred and sixty-one feet the previous year. 

The operations at this point were carried on for a year, when they 
were terminated by authority of the department, it having been con- 
sidered that they had demonstrated that, with any reasonable amount 
of expenditure, artesian wells on the Llano Estacado, and plains of 
similar formation and position, are impracticable. The depth attained 
was one thousand and fifty feet. 

The work was continued during the winter, which, from its unusual 
severity, increased the labors and hardships of the party, exposed, as 
it was, in tents on the bleak plain. The difficulties encountered were 
far greater than had been anticipated by Captain Pope, but were 
constantly met with skill, zeal, and perseverance. 

The impracticability of carrying the boring to a greater depth with 
the means provided, is attributable to the incoherent nature of the 
soft sandstones, marls, and clays, which, throughout the whole depth 
of the well, fell in and packed so firmly around the tubing, that, in 
forcing it down, the threads of the connecting screws were stripped 
off, and the tubes themselves split and crushed. From the same 
cause, when it became necessary to withdraw the tubes upon the acci- 
dental loss in the Avell of the heavy iron rod connected with the cut- 
ting tools, and subsequently of the slips holding the cutters, long 
delays occurred; and in one of these cases the well could only be 
cleared by boring and spearing up a part of the tubing. Near the 
bottom of the well thin seams of hard limestone were met, the jagged 
edges of which cut the wooden rods in two, and bent the iron rods so 
that they speedily became worthless. 

The water used in the boiler of the engine contained material in 
suspension that formed in six days a hard incrustation half an inch 
thick, which could only be removed by chiseling. The fine sand in 
suspension cut away the valves, and the acids in solution rapidly de- 
stroyed the boiler and other iron work. Much time was thus lost, and 
new machinery could not be obtained nearer than New Orleans. 

Such, in brief, were the obstacles encountered in sinking the well 



4 

to the depth of one thousand and fifty feet; beyond that depth it could 
not be carried. 

Captain Pope expresses the belief that wells might be bored to a 
much greater depth on the Llano by using heavy cast iron tubes of 
large diameter, and suitable driving apparatus, but that the cost 
of transporting this heavy material would preclude its use. Upon 
this I can express no opinion, as the dimensions, weight, &c., of this 
tubing are not stated. 

The reports received from Captain Pope do not specify how many 
new supplies of water were met during the last operations. One new 
supply, described as a strong stream pouring into the well, is marked 
on the diagram as entering it twohundredfeet below the lowest water 
previously encountered, (in 1856,) which, coming from a source six 
hundred and seventy-six feet below, rose to within one hundred and 
ten feet of the surface. As it is not stated that the water from this 
new supply rose higher in the well than during the previous year, it 
is presumed that it did not. In Captain Pope's letter of the 4th of 
June, 1858, mention is made of powerful streams of water pouring into 
the well without rising to the surface. This would indicate that they 
find vent at lower levels than that of the surface of the Llano at the 
well, and would lead us to apprehend the same result for streams that 
might be encountered at greater depths, and to doubt whether the 
water would flow out at the surface even if the boring were carried 
to the depth originally intended. Captain Pope does not appear to 
entertain any such doubt, biit, on the contrary, explicitly states in his 
report of the 22d of August last, that his opinions about the certainty 
of getting water to overflow at the surface are unchanged. 

The suggestions of Captain Pope, in his report of the 4th of June, 
that the work upon the well near the Pecos should be discontinued, 
and the next experiment be made upon or near the route between 
Anton Chico and Albuquerque, were approved by the department, 
and instructions to that effect were sent him on the 10th of July. At 
the date of his last communication (September 28) the party had ar- 
rived at Galisteo, and commenced the experimenton the plain between 
Anton Chico and Albuquerque, at the intersection of the road between 
those two places with the road from SantJi Fe to Fort Stanton 

In order to exhibit the nature and extent of the operations of Cap- 
tain Pope, I submit herewith copies of his instructions and reports of 
progress. It is only by their perusal that his labors can be properly 
appreciated. 

II. — EXPLORATION OF THE BIO COLORADO OF THE WEST. 

The expedition for the exploration of the Rio Colorado of the West, 
commanded by First Lieutenant J. C. Ives, Topographical Engineers, 
has completed its field operations. Lieutenant Ives returned to 
Washington in August, and is now employed in preparing the report 
and maps. I submit herewith a communication from him, showing 
briefly a portion of the results of the expedition. 

In the last annual report it was stated that the expedition was at 



San Francisco, en route for the field. The supplies and property of 
the party, and also the materials for constructing a small iron steam- 
boat, were sent from San Francisco to the mouth of the Colorado in 
one of the government vessels. They arrived there on the 2d of 
December. Under serious disadvantages the steamboat was put 
together, and on the 31st of December the ascent of the river was 
commenced. On the 11th of March a point was reached nearly five 
hundred miles from the mouth, (in lat. 36° 06',) beyond which it was 
impracticable to proceed in boats. It was intended that the examina- 
tion of the river should be made in the season of low water, and 
during the progress of the party the river proved to be lower than 
had ever been known. In this worst stage the navigation was found 
to be difficult, but is pronounced entirely practicable, for the distance 
stated, for steamboats of suitable construction and of but two feet 
draught. The trip from the mouth to the head of navigation will 
requ?re from ten to twenty days, and the round trip from three to 
six weeks. There is an abundance of wood for fuel on the river. 

From the head of navigation to the nearest point on the Spanish 
trail, or Mormon road to Utah, the distance is forty miles; about one 
hundred miles to the point where that road crosses the Muddy river, 
a tributary of the Virgen; two hundred and twenty miles to the first 
Mormon settlement in the Great Salt Lake basin, and five hundred 
miles to the Great Salt Lake. 

The head of navigation is about seventy miles above the Mojave 
valley. 

Examinations should be made for a better route between the head 
of navigation and the Virgen, since, for the space of sixty miles before 
reaching the Muddy river, no water is found on the Mormon road. 

By using the Colorado as a channel for forwarding supplies, there 
would be "a saving in land transportation to Salt Lake of seven hun- 
dred miles ; to Fort Defiance of six hundred miles, and to Fort 
Buchanan of eleven hundred miles. 

The chains of mountains that cross the navigable portion of the 
Colorado were found, like those of California and Sonora, to possess 
great mineral wealth. Rich deposits of silver, copper, and lead were 
observed, and a great abundance of iron: but gold and mercury only 
in small quantities. 

After the completion of the reconnaissance of the river, explora- 
tions were conducted by land along the 36th parallel, on the plateau 
region through which the upper Colorado and its tributaries canon, the 
greater part of which was entirely unknown. Extending over a space 
of four degrees of longitude, these plateaus were found cut into im- 
mense chasms, thousands of feet deep, forming intricate systems of 
abvsscs many miles in width, and utterly impassable. Through these 
chasms the streams just mentioned ran, and, wherever seen, foamed 
and surged with the" rapidity of their descent. 

Near'the eastern border of the table lands, which extend from the 
Colorado to the mountains of the Sierra Madre, the Moquis towns 
are found. They were visited by the expedition, which arrived 
at Albuquerque about the 1st of June, and was there broken up. 



6 

The region explored is pronounced to bo of little agricultural value. 
Cretaceous coal was found near the Moquis towns. 

The examinations of Lieutenant Ives confirm the opinion of Captain 
Whipple as to the railroad practicability of the line from the Big 
Sandy to the Colorado river, which is shorter than the line down Bill 
Williams' Fork by ninety miles, and less costly by six million dollars. 
The changes effected by the adoption of this line, in the length and 
cost of the whole route, will be found on pages 36 and 37 of the con- 
clusion of the official review, volumeVII of the Pacific Railroad Report. 
This is the only modification of the railroad route of the 85th parallel 
introduced by the explorations of Lieutenant Ives and the examina- 
tions made by Mr. Bealo when opening the wagon road from Port 
Defiance to the Colorado river. 

The explorations conducted by Lieutenant Ives Avere attended by 
circumstances of more than ordinary difficulty, and the successful 
execution of the duties assigned to him is liighly creditable to himself 
and party. 

III. EXPLORATIONS IN NEBRASKA. 

The return, in November last, of the expedition commanded by 
Lieutenant G-. K. Warren, Topographical Engineers, after the suc- 
cessful execution of the duties intrusted to him of reconnaissance and 
exploration in Nebraska, has been already reported. The maps have 
been completed, all the necessary calculations of the astronomical and 
barometrical observations made, and the reports in relation to the 
different objects of the expodition are in an advanced state. 

The principal objects of the expedition were to ascertain the best 
route by which to continue to the South Pass the military road now 
constructing from the Mississippi river to Sioux City, on the Missouri, 
and to examine in this connexion the valley of the Loup Fork of the 
Platte, and that of the Niobrara, and to make such reconnaissance of 
the Black Hills about the sources of the Big Shyenne as circumstances 
would permit, to determine their character, especially Avith reference 
to the future military operations that may be carried on in this Terri- 
tory. In accomplishing these objects, the expedition would obt^un 
information of the character and resources of the country, its adapta- 
bility to settlement and cultivation, and would develop its geography 
and geology along the routes pursued, nearly all of which were pre- 
viously unexplored by Avhite men. 

The preliminary report of Lieutenant Warren is hereAvith pre- 
sented. The routes reconnoitred and mapped in 1857 are from Sioux 
City to the mouth of Loup Fork; thence up this stream to its source 
in the Sand Hills; and thence by the Niobrara to Fort Laramie. From 
this point the party proceeded north and carefully examined the 
Black Hills, and, returning to the Niobrara, explored this stream to 
its junction with the Missouri; and also a route from the mouth of 
Turtle Hill river to Fort Randall. Finally, the road from Fort Randall 
to Sioux City Avas surveyed. 

With the report on these routes Lieutenant Warren combines that 



of the routes examined by him in 1856, under orders from General 
Harney, of which examinations no report has heretofore been pre- 
sented. 

In that vear he made a careful reconnaissance of the Missouri 
river from the southern boundary of Nebraska to a point sixty miles 
above the mouth of the Yellowstone, and of this latter stream to 
PoAvder river. 

The routes explored, including those of 1858, (of which a report 
has been rendered and printed,) all lie east of the 106th meridian. 
They lead once through the Sand Hills north and south, and twice 
east and west, almost around the Black Hills, and through the valleys 
of the following rivers, viz: the Platte, Loup Fork, Niobrara, White 
Earth, Big Shyenne, Missouri, Yellowstone, and James rivers. 

The accompanying report of Lieutenant Warren is divided as 
follows: 

Part 1 is a statement of the routes pursued and main incidents 
which affected their direction and extent, and in connexion with this 
are given the objections urged by the Dakotas against the passage of 
the expedition through the Territory. This may prove valuable to 
any white men that may travel there. 

Part 2 contains a general description of the surface of Nebraska; 
an account of the general structure of the country; its principal 
geological formations and the character of the soil; and its adaptability 
in different parts to settlement. 

It confirms the statements heretofore made by explorers in otlier 
portions of the western prairies of the generally sterile character of 
the lands Avest of the 99th meridian, attributable to the absence of 
fertile elements in the soil in large tracts, like the Sand Hill region, 
and to the want of timely rains. 

The section in the mountains bordering these plains on the west is 
described as containing small fertile valleys, Avith streams of Avater 
and an abundance of building material, both of stone and wood, and 
an ample supply of the latter for fuel. The opinion is expressed that 
this section will be overspread by considerable settlements. 

Part 3 contains a general description of the rivers and routes 
through the Territory, Avith a discussion of the question as to the 
best route by Avhich to supply Fort Laramie and the interior. The 
conclusions arrived at in regard to this last question are, that the 
route up the Loup Fork is impracticable, and, besides, is less direct 
than the Platte route ; that the route along the Niobrara is barely 
practicable for Avagons, and that the difficulties to be met Avith on 
the road, together Avith the increased riA^er transportation of the 
route, render it less favorable than that up the Platte, Avhether the 
starting point be Omaha City or Nebraska City ; that a road from 
Sioux City to Fort Laramie, along the Niobrara, Avould only be about 
forty miles shorter than a road proceeding from the same point direct 
to tiie Platte, at the mouth of Loup Fork, and thence along the Platte 
route to Fort Laramie ; that the shorter length of the Niobrara route 
is more than counterbalanced by the great difficulties on that route, 
and therefore the route along the Platte is the better of the two ; 



8 

that the route from the mouth of White river west to Fort Laramie 
is probably practicable, and superior to that along the Niobrara ; 
that the route from Fort Pierre to Fort Laramie is likewise superior 
to the Niobrara route, but that the increased river transportation and 
absence of settlements along this part of the Missouri river render 
these routes at present inferior to those of the Platte valley; that above 
Fort Pierre, on the navigable part of the Missouri river, there are no 
routes leading from it to Fort Laramie or the South Pass that are as 
advantageous as those enumerated. It is further concluded that of 
all the routes explored the Platte valley is the best adapted for 
locating a railroad to connect the settlements to be formed in the 
mountains Avith those along the Missouri river; and that, as a national 
route for a Pacific railroad, leading to the South Pass or to Bridger's 
Pass, it is superior to any other in this latitude. These conclusions 
appear to be fully sustained by the facts advanced in their support. 

The 4th part of the report treats of the Indian tribes, their num- 
ber, location, &c. An approximate estimate of their strength is made, 
and routes by which to operate against them, in the event of hostili- 
ties, are discussed. Almost every part of the country examined is 
practicable for the operations of cavalry; and routes practicable for 
the wagons of a military expedition can generally be found, even in 
the Black Hills, to such points as would be used as depots from which 
supplies for brief periods could be furnished for military movements. 

The 5th part of Lieutenant Warren's report is a brief statement of 
the meteorological phenomena of the country, as observed during the 
explorations; the most prominent facts respecting which are the ex- 
treme variableness of the phenomena of moisture and temperature — 
tacts which confirm previous statements in regard to them. 

The report contains a catalogue of the fossils collected, with the 
localities of the specimens, and similar lists of the plants and the col- 
lections in the different departments of zoology. All these collections 
were made without interfering with the more immediate, practical 
■objects of the explorations, and reflect credit on the labors of Lieu- 
tenant Warren and his assistants. These collections are esteemed to 
be of high scientific value; and among the discoveries due to the 
labors of the expedition are the discovery of the Potsdam sandstone, 
the oldest of the fossiliferous rocks, in the Black Hills, the first posi- 
tive proof of the existence in America of the formation corresponding 
to the Jurassic of Europe, and the discovery on the Niobrara of a new 
formation of the pliocene tertiary, containing the remains of an ex- 
tinct fauna resembling that now inhabiting Asia, from which at least 
thirty-two distinct species of vertebrates have been described by 
Professor Lcidy. The principal of these results have been published, 
by permission of the department, in the proceedings of the Academy 
of Natural Sciences of Philadelphia. Accompanying one of these 
papers, prepared by Dr. Hayden, is a small geological map of Ne 
braska. 

A military map of Nebraska and Dakota, on a scale of tto oiro « 
prepared by Lieutenant Warren, and ordered to be engraved by 
the Senate at its last session, is now ready for publication. 



9 

The completion of the exploration of the interior of Nobnuska, about 
the sources of the Yellowstone, Lieutenant Warren thinks conld be 
most advantageously and economically made by an expedition organ- 
ized to remain at least two years in the field, and the cost of this he 
estimates at $G0,000. This exploration has been a favorite object 
with him, and his previous experience, and his knowledge of the 
Indians and character of the country, would enable him to accomplish 
the work with economy. 

The highly crcditiible manner in which the explorations heretofore 
intrusted to him have been conducted, under many embarrassments, 
dilBculties, and dangers, prove him to be peculiarly well qualified for 
the task. 

A detailed plan for the execution of the work will be found in the 
report. 

IV. — THE MILITARY ROAD FROM FORT BENTON TO FORT WALLA-WALLA. 

The opening of the military road from Fort Benton, on the Missouri 
river, to Fort "Walla- Walla, on the Columbia river, for which there was 
an appropriation of $30, 000, was assigned to Lieutenant John Mullan, 
2d artillery, on the 12th of last March. On the 25th of May Lieutenant 
Mullan had organized his working party and left Fort Dalles, on the 
Columbia river, for Fort Walla- Walla, when intelligence was received 
by him of the commencement of hostilities by the Indian tribes 
occupying the regions through which the route he was about to open 
passes. The party was accordingly disbanded, and Lieutenant Mullan 
joined Colonel Wright's command, as topographical officer, and in that 
capacity, and in command of a party of friendly Indians, participated 
in the campaign upon the Spokane plains. The appropriation was 
entirely inadequate to the object for which it was designed, and to 
open a road of similar permanency of character with the military 
roads in the United States Territories would require a very much 
larger sum. No estimate of this has been made, but it mav be 
assumed that it will not be less than the amounts expended on equal 
lengths of route on the wagon roads to the Pacific in other latitudes, 
for which appropriations have been made. 

V. — OFFICE WORK. 

In addition to supplying the general map of the United States 
Territories for military purposes, special maps of the theatres of 
operations have been furnished to the troops engaged in the field. 
Maps of each of the military departments are being prepared. Upon 
the general map of the United States Territories west of the Missis- 
sippi, Lieutenant Warren has laid down the approximate boundaries 
of the various Indian tribes that occupy the country. Copies of this, 
printed in colors, so as to exhibit the location of each tribe, showing 
also the limits of the military departments, and positions of th« 
military posts, will, it is believed, be found useful to the War Depart- 
ment and the army, and will matorially aid those not familiar with 



10 

this region, in comprehending; the nature and extent of the military 
operations necessary to control the Indian tribes, 

In preparing this map, besides the information possessed in this 
office, much that was valuable was obtained from the Indian Bureau 
and United States Land Office, particularly in regard to the location 
of the Indian reserves. The attempt to define the boundaries of 
these Indian tribes is a difficult task, as they are not well established 
among themselves; and those that are friendly to each other, though 
using different languages, often mingle to such an extent as to have a 
common countr}^; as for instance the Crees, Chippewas, and Assin- 
niboins. It is for this reason, probably, that no map of this kind has 
ever before been produced. 

Upon returning to Washington, in December last, Lieutenant Warren 
resumed charge of the j)reparation of the maps, <fec., compiling in this- 
office, in addition to the duties connected with his own explorations. 
He has completed his report upon the general map, which forms a 
part of the Pacific Railroad Report, and will be published with it. 

Lieutenant Abbot, in addition to conducting certain surveys and 
investigations upon the delta of the Mississippi, under my general 
direction, and preparing the results, has likewise aided in the duties 
of this office, and both these officers have, in turn, taken charge of it 
during n\y absence. 

The appropriation for marldng the southern boundary of Kansas 
directed that copies of the plats of the line should be furnished to 
the Secretary of the Interior and the Secretary of tlie Territory of" 
Kansas. 

Copies of four of the seven sheets of the map of the boundary, as 
marked by Lieutenant Colonel Johnston, 1st cavalry, have been pre- 
pared for this jourpose, and those of the remaining three will probably 
be finished by the 1st of January. They have been copied by Mr. 
A. Schimmelfennig, who in this instance has, for the first time in this 
country, successfully applied the photographic process to copying" 
maps on so large a scale. 

VI. EXPLOIIATIOXS PROPOSED. 

The fields of exploration proposed for the next season are, those in 
Nebraska, before mentioned; the region along the San Juan to its 
junction with the Rio Colorado of the West, and along the Spanish 
trail from that river to Abiqui; the route across the Sierra Nevada to 
Carson's river, to ascertain its raiboad practicability; and the upper 
Columbia river, to ascertain its navigability. These, with the topo- 
graphical examinations made by officers with the various military 
commands, Avill usefully expend the amount appropriated for military 
surveys and reconnaissances and geographical explorations. 
Very respectfullv, your obedient servant, 

A. A. HUMPHREYS, 
Captain Topograplncal Engineers^ in charge, 
Hon. John B. Floyd, 

Secretary of Wan-. 



11 



ARTESIAN WELL EXPERIMENT. 

Reports of Captain John Pope, Topographical Engiiieers, to Captain A. 
A. Hmnphreys, Topographical Engiiu'ers, in charge of Office of Explo- 
ration and Survey, War Dejxirtment. 

War Department, 
Washington, May 5, 1857. 

Sir: In the execution of the duties hereby assigned to you, of con- 
tinuing the experiment of sinking artesian wells upon the public 
lands, for which an appropriation of $100,000 was made, you will be 
guided by the following instructions: 

Proceeding to St. Louis, via New York, you will have prepared, 
as soon as practicable, the tools, macliinery, apparatus, and material 
requisite for the work, employ such mechanics and other persons as 
may be necessary for the service, and with them repair to San Anto- 
nio. Texas, and assume the command of the expedition. 

The organization and outfit having been completed, you will move 
to the Pecos river, near the 32d parallel of latitude, establish youi 
camp at a convenient position, I'csume the boring of the well left 
unfinished during the past summer, and continue the work until the 
water flows out continuously upon the surface. This having been 
done, and the well left in good condition, you will proceed to the 
Rio Grande, occupy a position suitable for continuing the experiment 
begun near that river, and complete the ^vell in like manner with that 
near the Pecos. 

Upon the successful termination of each work, you will report in 
detidl upon it, transmitting at the same time a geological section, 
exhibiting the source whence the supply of Avater is probably derived. 

These two works having been finished and left in serviceable order, 
you will continue the experiment of sinking artesian wells on the 
plains or basins east of the Rio Grande, the number of experiments 
being limited by the amount of the appropriation, which your expen- 
ditures for field and ofiice work must not exceed. These wells should 
be established upon or near lines of military and emigrant roads, if 
sites can be found at such positions, in every way favorable for the 
experiments, and two of them should be located upon that portion of 
the route from Independence to New Mexico, lying east of the Cana- 
dian river. 

As soon as you have selected the position for a well, you will report 
the facts that have governed you in the selection, transmitting at the 
same time detailed descriptions of the locality, with such sketches "of 
the country and geological sections as will exhibit tlie probable source 
of the supply of water, the depth towliich the boring must be carried, 
the nature of the formations to be passed through, and all other infor- 
mation necessary to a thorough understanding of the subject, and a 
demonstration of the practicability, extent, and cost of the work. 

These wells 'will be finished in the same manner as the first two. 

Such reconnaissances and geological examinations as may be neoes- 



12 

sary for the selection of the sites of the wells Avill be made, as also 
the usual surveys over the routes pursued by the expedition; and bo 
far as it can be done without interfering- with or adding to the expense 
of the accomplishment of the special object for which the appropria- 
tion was made, every opportunity will be availed of to gain informa- 
tion respecting the region over which your movements will extend. 

You will obtain from the assistant quartermaster at Fort Fillmore 
the boring apparatus, materiel, instruments, <fec., turned ov»r to him 
by you at the termination of the work on the Pecos during the last 
season. Upon the completion of the experiments of sinking artesian 
wells, you will return by such route as the condition of your party 
may render necessary or desirable, discharge your employes, dispose 
of your outfit at some convenient and favorable point, and repair to 
Washington with such assistants as may be required to completie 
your report. 

The commanding officer of the department of Texas will be directed 
to detail seventy-five enlisted men of the infantry, with two subal- 
terns, and twenty-five enlisted men of the cavalry, with one subaltern, 
and order them to report to you for duty, without delay, at San An- 
tonio, Texas. 

The officers of the quartermaster's, subsistence, ordnance, and 
medical departments, serving in Texas and New Mexico, will be in- 
structed to furnish the expedition, upon your requisition, transporta- 
tion, quartermaster's stores, provisions, arms, ammunition, medicine, 
medical stores, &c., the articles for the use of the civil employes being 
paid for out of the appropriation for the well. 

So far as it can be done consistently with the proper protection of 
the work, you will cause working parties to be detailed from the 
eoilisted men of your command to aid in the construction of the wells, 
who will receive the extra pay allowed by partigraph 883, Army 
Regulations. 

Immediately upon the receipt of these instructions, you will report 
the kind and amount of boring apparatus, machinery, tubing, tools, 
and materials, that should be provided for completing the experiments, 
with their probable cost; the number of assistants and others whom 
you propose to employ, Avith their rates of compensation; the train 
and camp equipage necessary for the operation, with their estimated 
cost; and the expense of organizing and maintaining the expedition 
during one j^ear, and also for continuing it a second year. 

You will communicate with the department through the Office of 
Explorations and Surveys, in charge of Captain A. A. Humphreys, 
Corps of Topographical Engineers; and to this office you will make 
the reports and returns required by "Regulations of an officer of 
engineers in charge of a work or operation," and such other reports, 
transmitted as often as the means of communication will alloN\^, as will 
keep the department apprised of all your movements and of the pro- 
gress of the work in your charge. 

Before taking the iieM, you will turn over to the same office the 



13 

note books, maps, reports, and results, so far as obtained, of your 
previous expedition. 

Very respectfully, vour obedient servant, 

JOHN B. FLOYD, 



Captain John Pope, 

Corps Topographical Engineers. 



Secretary of War. 



St. Louis, Missouri, 

3Iaij 5, 1857. 

Sir: I have the honor to report that I have completed the arrange- 
ments and secured the tools and machinery necessary for the duties 
assigned to me, and only await my final instructions, and the transfer 
of the funds for which I submitted an estimate. 

Everything is in complete and perfect order, and to the manufa<;ture 
of machinery and the procurement of everything necessary for a 
thorough discharge of the duty the experience of the past two years 
has been successfully applied. I doubt not that the expedition will 
prove as successful as its most sanguine friends could anticipate. 

May I respectfully request that Mr. Howard and the other young 
gentlemen to accompany the expedition be ordered to report to me in 
New Orleans. 

I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant, 

JOHN POPE, 
Captain Topographical Engineers. 
Hon. John B. Floyd, 

Secretary of War. 



[Extract.] 

Indianola, Texas, 

July 9, 1857. 

Sir: I have the honor to report tliat my party and train marched 
from this place to-day fully equipped for the plains, and unless some 
unforeseen delay occurs in providing transportation and supplies at 
San Antonio for the enlisted men of the expedition, requisitions for 
Avhich were transmitted some time since to the quartermaster at that 
place, no halt will be made until I reach m}" camp on the Pecos. 

(Signed by Captain John Pope.) 



Camp on the Pecos River, near the 32d Parallel. 

September 7, 1857. 

Sir: I have the honor to report my arrival at this camp on the 2d 
instant, and the resumption of the work near this place. 



14 

I am now sinking a five -inch hole to the first water (240 feet) into 
which I shall fit a copper pump for the supply of engine and men. 
This will occupy us about twelve days, by which time the engine 
will be fitted up and ready to resume the boring of the well at the 
depth attained last year, (861 feet.) 

I anticipate with confidence, a successful result within two months. 
Our march from San Antonio has been rapid and altogether for- 
tunate. 

I am, sir respectfully, your obedient servant, 

JOHN POPE, 
Captain Top' I Fng'rs, com'g. 
Capt. A. A. Humphreys, 

Top' I Eng'rs, in charge of Office ExpV s and Surveys. 



An unofficial letter from Captain Pope, dated Camp on Pecos river, 
October 1, 1857, states: "We are getting along here as well as 
could be expected, and I hope six weeks will enable us to complete 
all our operations near this place. The pump has been sunk to the 
first water, (240 feet,) and is now pumping for the use of the engine. 
Within the first two weeks we cut and hauled mesquite roots sufficient 
to run the engine for three months, and everything goes on smoothly 
and expeditiously. We are now pumping from the well the mud and 
sand which have accumulated since we left it, and will resume the 
boring in a few days." 



Camp on Pecos River, January 5, 1858. 

Sm : I have the honor to report for the information of the War 
Department, tliat we are still engaged upon the "Llano Estacado" in 
the prosecution of the first experiment of sinking an artesian well. 

The time consumed has already been far greater than was antici- 
pated, from the repeated accidents and breakages of machinery, which ' 
required mucli time in each case to rc])air. The boring has only 
reached at this date a depth of nine hundred and fifty feet, though I 
trust that hereafter the work will be more rapidly executed. 

Several streams of water have been already intersected since the 
work was resumed, and the borings now are in the sulphurous shale 
from which issue the sulphur springs at the head of Delaware creek. 
I am in daily expectation of striking water which will overflow the 
surface. 

The winter has been unusually severe for this region, and we are 
in the midst of a norther, accompanied by snow. I have been obliged 
to send into Fort Davis to be foraged all the animals not absolutely 
necessary for the work here, and to haul from that place sufficient 
corn to give the animals here half the ration of forage. 



15 

We shall, however, do well enough during the winter, and shall 
doubtless pass that portion of it which yet remains for us on this 
plain without suflering any hardship. 

I am, respectfully, your obedient servant, 

JOHN POPE, 
Captain Top. Eng's, commanding expedition. 
Captain A. A, Humphreys, Top. Eng's, 

In charge Office Explorations and Stirveys, Washington, D. C 



Camp on the Pecos River, Fehmary 26, 1858. 

Sir : I have the honor to report for the information of the War De- 
partment, that the work near this place is still unfinished. 

The difficulty in the first instance of sinking tubing to a depth of 
one thousand feet through strata so slightly coherent as to fall in at 
almost every point of the entire depth, and which bound the tube so 
as to render it almost impossible to force it down, consumed much 
time and labor. The breaking of the boring apparatus near the lower 
extremity (the middle of an iron sinker thirty feet in length) occa- 
sioned further delay, very much prolonged by the caving in of the 
well above the top of the broken sinker, so as to render a great deal 
of labor necessary to get hold of it and withdraw it. When all things 
had been finally set to rights, Ave had the misfortune, after boring to 
a depth of 1,047 feet, to burst the cast-iron pump of the engine, and 
I have been obliged to send as far as Galveston to procure another, 
as there is no possibility of repairing or procuring such a casting 
here. The work still goes on, however, as the broken pump can still 
be made to work, and I have abundant force to push the work by 
hand if it becomes necessary. 

We are boring in hard limestone, very black, and easily recog- 
nizable in its outcrop at the head of Delaware creek, about forty feet 
above the surface of the springs forming the sources of that stream. 

I entertain the hope daily of completing the work, which would, no 
doubt, have been finished long since but for the many and wholly un- 
usual and unanticipated accidents I have referred to. 

I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant, 

JOHN POPE, 
Captain Topographical Engineers. 

Captain A. A. Humphreys, ^ 

Toj). Eng^ s, in charge of office. 



Camp on Pecos River, April 1, 1858. 
Sir : I regret to report that the accidents and difficulties we have 
met with in the prosecution of the work near this place have pre- 
vented as yet any advancement of the boring since my last report. 
The water of the Pecos river, which we are obliged to use in the 



16 

boiler of the steam-engine, forms a hard, solid coating around the 
flues in the course of a very few days, and occasions leakage in the 
boiler sufficient to prevent the raising of steam, I have been obliged 
in consequence to reflue the boiler throughout, and to make man- 
heads enough to enable a man to clean it thoroughly at least once 
every six days. This has occupied several weeks. 

The peculiarity of the formations is another source of great diffi- 
culty, which much time and labor are necessary to overcome. For a 
hundred feet above the bottom of the well there are consecutive 
strata of soft slate and of hard flinty limestone in thin layers. The 
slate is washed away by the agitation of the water, leaving the sharp 
edges of the limestone exposed so as to cut in two in a very few mo- 
ments the wooden poles, and to bend iron substitutes so that they are 
rendered useless. 

There is great difficulty in sinking the tube arising from the soft, 
crumbling character ot the whole formation from the surface down. 

Although the bottom of the tube is perfectly free and loose, the 
friction along the sides is so great that the driving necessary to move 
it is sufficient to crush the upper end of it and to tear out the screw 
threads below. 

The tube we are using is the iron (wrought) which you sent from 
Philadelphia last year. 

We are now endeavoring to sink the tube to the bottom with fair 
proispect of success, though it will be a work requiring time. 

I have little doubt we are in close vicinity to the water, as the 
formations are peculiar and readily identified with their out-crop, 
about forty feet above tlie head springs, Delaware creek. 

I have reduced my party to the smallest possible limits, and shall 
be able to maintain it in the field at least to July 1, 1859. 

I send herewith topographical and geological sketches and sections 
exhibiting in detail all possible information concerning the vicinity 
of the well. The geological section from the Guadalupe mountains, 
exhibits as you will observe some different features from those here- 
tofore sent. I have satisfied myself for sufficient reasons that the 
Pecos flows througli a valley occasioned by upheavals along lines both 
east and west, and is not a valley of denudation. The dip of the 
strata from the Gaudalupe mountains is not continuous across the 
"Llano Estacado" witli a constant descent, but rises east of the Pecos 
in a gentle undulation without fracture to the summit of the plain, at 
an altitude of six hundred feet above the river, and a distance of 
about thirty-five miles from it. 

The geological section will exhibit plainly what 1 have stated. 

I will of course prosecute this work Avith all vigor and perseverance, 
and I by no means despair of completing the work here in time to 
accomplish a larfre portion of what was proposed when the expedi- 
tion took the field. 



17 



Extract from a letter from. Captain A. A. Humphreys, Topographical 
Engineers, in charge of Offi,ce of Explorations and Surveys, dated 
April 14, 1858. 

"Sir : Your reports from the camp on the Pecos river of the 26th 
and 28th of February were duly received, and submitted to the Sec- 
retary of War. 

"In consideration of the unexpected difKculties and consequent, 
unavoidable delays that have occurred in your work upon the artesian 
well near the Pecos, the Secretary of War directs that, upon the 
completion of that well, instead of proceeding to complete the artesian 
well west of the Rio Grande, you will omit that work and continue 
the experiment of sinking artesian wells on the plains or basins east 
of the Rio Grande, as indicated in the fifth paragraph of your instruc- 
tions of the 5th of May last." 

Camp on Pecos Rivee, May 1, 1858. 

Sir : I submit the following report of operations in the prosecu- 
tion of the experiment of sinking an artesian well on the ' ' Llano 
Estacado." 

The boring is done by means of oak poles, 1| inches in diameter, 
in 16 feet sections joined in twos by heavy iron straps. Each boring 
rod is therefore 32 feet long with a male screw at one end and a female 
screw at the other, both having very strong and heavy threads. 
The drill has a straight edge of 3| inches, and is attached to an iron 
rod 30 feet long and 1^ inch in diameter. To the upper end of this 
rod (or sinker) is attached a pair of iron slips, having a play of 16 
inches (the fall of the drill) and to these are screwed on the wooden 
poles, up to the surface. The upper end of the poles is attached by 
a moveable chain to a spring beam worked by steam, and (boring at 
the usual speed) the drill falls fifty-five times in a minute. The borings 
are pumped out by a sand pump of copper, 9 feet long, which works 
with a rope passing round a drum attached to the steam engine. The 
hole is pumped out on an average once in 2^ hours of boring. 

The difficulties we have encountered have resulted from the peculiar 
soft and crumbling strata of variegated marls and clays, which are of 
an uncommon thickness, not, I believe, to be found elsewhere within the 
range of geological examination. It has been necessary in this case 
to line the well with tubing from the surface, and as combining strength 
and lightness wrought iron tubing ^V o^ ^^^ ^^^^^^ thick was brought out 
with the expedition. 

The first difficulty met with was in sinking the tubing to a depth of 
81 feet lower than it was left last year (810 ft.). Although with the 
under cutting drills it was easy to enlarge the bore below the tube so 
as to admit the latter to pass down freely, yet the friction along the 
sides resulting from the crumbling and falling in of loose slightly cohe 
rent strata around it, was so great that it required driving as heavily 
as it would bear to force it down. Next the iron sinker broke oft" in 
the middle and before anything coulJ be put down to withdraw it the 
2 H 



18 

well caved in for sixty feet above it and completely covered it. Six 
weeks were passed in clearing the well and getting ont the broken 
sinker. Next the water used in the engine, in consequence of large 
quantities of lime and sand held in suspension soon coated the flues of 
the boiler with a very hard scale and caused them to leak badly. It 
was therefore necessary to take down the engine and reflue it entirely, 
inserting manheads for cleaning. Very shortly after we again resumed 
boring we passed into alternating thin strata of blue slate and flint 
limestone, the most difficult strata we have yet encountered. Water 
pours in at several places in the well in considerable streams, and 
very soon washes away the slate, which is soft, but leaves the sharp 
jagged edges of the hard limestone fully exposed; in a very little 
while the wooden rods working through these strata would be cut in 
two; iron rods were substituted, but they were soon bent so badly, by 
coming into violent contact Avith the sharp limestone, as to be useless; 
I therefore was obliged either to diminish the bore by inserting smaller 
tubing, or sink the large tubing to the bottom. The exceeding diffi- 
culty of the last plan induced me to prefer the former, and the hole was 
lined with three-inch copper tubing from the lower to the upper thin 
layer of limestone. Unfortunately, very soon after effecting this, the 
iron slips broke immediately beneath the bottom of the copper tube, 
and so spread apart that they could not be withdrawn through the 
tube ; it was therefore necessary first to take out the tube — a work of 
difficulty. It was all gotten out except nine feet of the lower part, 
which pulled off", and had to be bored and speared up. The boring 
up and pumping out of the copper tube was completed yesterday, 
and the head of the broken slips is now exposed so that they can be 
withdrawn. 

Since our arrival at this camp we have been thus embarrassed by 
difficulties and breakages, altogether due to a most peculiar, difficult, 
and uncommon formation of great and hitherto unknown thickness. 
The strata are so distinctively marked that they can be easily recog- 
nised in their outcrop between the Pecos river and the Guadalupe 
mountains; and we have reached the stratum of slate exposed plainly 
at the head of Delaware creek, about forty feet above the issue of the 
powerful fresh and mineral springs which form the sources of that 
stream. 

The winter here has also greatly incommoded us from inadequate 
protection of the men from unusually inclement weather for this re- 
gion, and there were many days during the severe northers, incident 
to this country, in which it was impossible to work. The spring is 
now fairly open, and I trust we shall soon be able to finish this work, 
as I am altogether certain that the water is but a little way below us. 

I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant, 

JOHN POPE, 
Captain Top^l Engineers. 

Capt. A. A. Humphreys, Corps TopH Engineers, 

Washington, D. 6'., in charge of Office ExpV s and Surveys. 



19 



Camp on Pecos River, 

Jwm 4, 1858. 

Sir: I have the honor to report that abundant springs of living 
water have been discovered on the summit of the Llano Estacado, 
fifty miles due east from this camp, and about half way between the 
Pecos and the Mustang springs. An exploring party which I sent 
out some days since returned to-day, after having carefully explored 
the country eastward from this place, and have found a hard firm 
road over the entire distance to these springs. From this camp in a 
due easterly course to the Mustang springs, is a distance of ninety- 
five miles, with a hard gravelly road over the entire distance, and all 
trouble about crossing this plain is not only entirely obviated by this 
discovery, but a saving of distance amounting to at least eighty-five 
miles has been effected. 

Two hundred of these springs, some of them thirty yards in circum- 
ference, have been found extending in a direction north and south 
over a space of nine miles. Everywhere in the neighborhood of the 
water Ave found groves of willow trees thirty feet high, and from four 
to six inches in diameter. They will furnish abundantly the material! 
necessary for constructing the stations which may be required. 

The existence and character of these springs are exceedingly 
peculiar and difficult to be accounted for. 

Commencing about three miles north of the 32d parallel of latitude, 
and fifty miles east of the Pecos at this camp, is a range of abrupt 
white sand hills, seventy or eighty feet higher than the surface of the 
plain, which extends in a direction a little east of south for about fifty 
miles. To the east, west, and north, the country descends rapidly 
from the summit or back-bone of these sand hills, which is the highest 
line for ten or fifteen miles in any direction. Along the very summit 
of this ridge issue the springs I have mentioned, bubbling up through 
beds of loose white sand of indefinite, or rather undetermined depth. 
They are not at all affected by surface rains, as there is not the 
slightest evidence on the banks of their ever rising or falling, and 
the surface drainage is from them in all directions. 

As I have stated the line of these springs or pools has been 
traced for nine miles towards the south, exhibiting in this distance 
two hundred considerable pools of water. In most cases the pools 
are from three to four feet in depth, but in some of the larger ones 
the depth is six feet. The water is perfectly transparent, and free 
from impurities. There seems to have been originally a considerable 
stream of running water, resembling Delaware creek in character, 
that is, a succession of deep pools connected by a swift running 
stream some tw^o feet wide, and Avith perpendicular banks about three 
feet high. The sand seems to have drifted before the violent winds 
along the course of the stream until it has entirely covered the small 
narrow streams connecting the ponds. This could readily have been 
done, as the flags, bullrushes, and cane grow so thick and matted 
along these narrow threads of water as completely to overlap each 
other from both sides, so that even along Delaware creek the narrow 



20 

stream connecting the large pools is altogether hid from the summit 
of the bank. 

This seems the only way to account for the peculiar character of 
these springs, and I am still further confirmed in this opinion from 
the fact that holes were dry in seyeral places between the springs, 
into which water rose from a depth of several feet, and overflowing 
the surface immediately ran off in a small stream into the spring to 
the south. 

The existence of this water and of a hard firm road across the 
plain, will be of prodigious service to travel, and is particularly 
fortunate in being discovered at this time, as it is precisely on the 
most direct route of the semi-weekly mail to California. Its discovery 
also will greatly diminish the imj)ortance of the artesian well boring 
experiment in this plain. 

I transmit herewith a topographical sketch exhibiting the situation 
of these springs with respect to known points both east and west. 
You will perceive that the lines of survey heretofore made across the 
Llano Estacado pass only a few miles to the north and south of this 
line of springs, and certainly there is no evidence of the existence of 
water in the midst of these bare sand hills until you are directly in 
the midst of them. 

I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant, 

JOHN POPE, 
Captain Topographical Engineers. 

Captain A. A. Humphreys, 

Corps Topographical Engineers^ 
In charge Office Explorations and Surveys, Washington, D. C. 

The water of these springs is undoubtedly not surface water, and 
must come from a depth greater than any of the streams intersected 
by the boring, as the surface of the springs is at least three hundred 
feet above the surface of the ground at the artesian well camp. 

The geological formation in tlie immediate vicinity of both places 
is the same, the gypsum and the loose pulverulent limestone appear- 
ing on the surface. 

J. POPE, 
Captain Topographical Engineers. 



Camp on Pecos River, June A, 185S. 

Sir: I have the honor to report that after incredible difticulty and 
labor we have at last succeeded in withdrawing from the well the 
broken sinker and bit. and are now commencing again the boring 
operations. 

The peculiarity of the geological structure of this plain for so many 
feet below the surface, in conjunction with the action of powerful 
streams of water which pour into the well without rising to the sur- 
face, occasion difficulties in the work which no previous experience 
in artesian well boring has yet exhibited. In less than one week 



21 

after the boring has passed below the tubing, the rush of water so 
causes the sides of the well to cave and fall in as to leave large 
caverns in some places, and in others sharp jagged edges of hard sand- 
stone and limestone, which almost destroy the boring rods, whether 
wood or iron. At a distance of forty feet below the bottom of the 
82 inch tube there is a strong stream of water pouring in, which has 
made a cave so large that broken iron rods five feet long completely 
disappear in it, though entering it perpendicular to the bore. It is 
so exceedingly dangerous, in consequence of the numerous breakages 
and accidents incident to such work, to insert smaller tubing, that 
I am very reluctant to do so if I can possibly avoid it. 

In a tube so small as 2| inches in diameter it is next to impossible 
to put down any socket or hook to get hold of broken poles, slips, 
&c. , and the last long delay we have just terminated was due to this 
very difficulty. When once a tube is jDut down through such a 
crumbling formation as characterizes this plain, it is next to impossi- 
ble to withdraw it again, as the falling in against it of the soft strata 
for its whole length binds it fast in the hole. 

In the present case we were obliged to bore up a part of the small 
tube, and pump it out before we could get hold of the broken slips 
and sinker. The large tube hangs free at the bottom, and nothing 
prevents its going down except the friction along the sides, resulting 
from continuous falling in of earth from top to bottom; but so great 
is this friction that, in order to move the tube down, it is necessary 
to drive it with such violence as to strip off the screw-threads and 
split the tube. I have been putting down the large tube, however, 
for several days past, with much success, by inserting a mandrill and 
driving, so that the strain is near the bottom. 

Even should the screw-threads strip off in this process, one piece, 
at least, will go down, and they can be thus driven down in succes- 
sion, and the contact made sufficiently perfect to answer our purposes. 
I have no expectation that much more depth of boring will be neces- 
sary, but our difficulty has been in boring at all. We are now fairly 
under way again, and I hope will meet with no further trouble. 
Much, if not all, our trouble since we last commenced this work could 
have been obviated by bringing out heavy cast iron tubes and the 
necessary driving apparatus; but the weight of the tubes and appa- 
ratus would have been so exceedingly great as to have rendered it a 
work of large expense to haul them five hundred miles across the 
plains. The tubing we have (wrought iron and copper) is admirably 
adapted to work of this kind at any place not so peculiar as this, and 
I anticipate no serious delay or difficulty after I once leave this place. 

In this connexion I beg to present some suggestions for the con- 
sideration of the department: 

1. The boring operations are fairly progressing again, after long 
delay and severe labor, and if no further difficulties occur, the work 
bids fair to be completed any day. On the other hand, it is possible 
we may be again arrested by the recurrence of continued difficulties, 
so as to be little advanced at the expiration of several months. 

2. It will be difficult, if not impossible, to keep laborers and me- 



22 

chanics another winter, exposed as they must be to the severity of 
the weather on this exposed plain. The severe cold is also peculiarly 
destructive to animals, for which we can make no shelter whatever, 
as there is no timber nearer than seventy miles, and we cannot spare 
either men or wagons to send for it. It has been as much as we have 
been able to do to discharge the absolutely necessary duties of this 
work, and keep ourselves supplied with rations and the animals with 
half forage, both of which must be hauled one hundred and twenty 
miles, 

3. If there be any well-founded hope that we can finish this work 
within any reasonable period, we can surely do it in four months, 
during which time, without the unusual accidents which have hereto- 
fore delayed us, we can carry the boring to a depth of 2, 200 feet. I 
would suggest, therefore, to the honorable Secretary of War whether 
it would be judicious to expend the whole of this appropriation upon 
the Llano Estacado, where this experiment may prove unsuccessful 
from the difficulties of the work; or whether, at the end of three or 
four months longer, it would not be advisable to test the question at 
some of the other points had in view when this expedition took the 
field, and which are not inferior in importance. One point in espe- 
cial, where it has been long my design with the approval of the 
department to make one of the experiments, is on the 35th parallel 
route, between Anton Chico and Albuquerque, where there is now a 
distance of nearly eighty miles without water. The great military 
road from Independence and Fort Leavenworth to New Mexico passes 
over this plain, and all supplies and munitions for the department of 
New Mexico are hauled over it to the depot at Albuquerque. 

The great valley thus destitute of water is immediately south of 
Santa Fe, and extends without interruption the whole length of terri- 
tory south of that place. The soil is excellent; there are abundant 
forests of cedar in the valley and pine in the mountains, and on the 
west side of the valley are the gold placers of New Mexico. It is a 
point of much importance both to the government and to the people 
of New Mexico, and it Avould indeed be unfortunate should this expe- 
dition be so long delayed here as to render it impracticable, with the 
appropriation, to make the experiment at that place. 

I make these suggestions to the department thus early, first, because 
I cannot expect a reply in less than three months, by which time, 
without renewed difficulties, this work will be finished; and second, 
because my instructions require me to remain here •' until water over- 
flows the surface." 

The experiment at Dona Ana is the most doubtful of success, as the 
department has been informed hitherto. 

I have to request that communications for me be addressed to Fort 
Davis, via. San Antonio, 

I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant, 

JOHN POPE, 
Captain Topographical Engineers. 

Captain A. A. Humphreys, Topographical Engineers, 

In charge of Offi^ce of Exploratiotis and Surveys. 



23 



War Department, Office Explorations and Surveys, 

Washington, D. C, July 10, 1858. 

Sir : Your report of the 4th of June has been received and submit- 
ted to the Secretary of War, who approves your suggestion that the 
work upon the well near the Pecos be discontinued about the end of 
September, if it should not be completed in the manner required by 
your instructions at that time. In the event of its abandonment be- 
fore such completion, your operations must be considered as estab 
lishing the impracticability of sinking artesian wells upon the Llano 
Estacado and other plains in that region of similar formation and 
position. 

On the 14th of April last you were directed to omit the work upon 
the well west of the Rio Grande, and upon the completion of the 
well near the Pecos, to continue the experiment on the plains or 
basins east of the Rio Grande, as indicated in the 5th paragraph of 
your instructions of the 5th of May, 1857. 

Your suggestion that the next experiment after leaving the Pecos 
be made upon or near the route between Anton Chico and Albuquerque 
ia also approved, and you will begin the operations for boring as 
soon as you have found what appears in your judgment a suitable 
point for obtaining water, and where supplies of it are needed on or 
near that route. 

Your letter of the 4th of June states that the distance over which 
water is not to be had between Anton Chico and Albuquerque is 
about 80 miles. Lieutenant Whipple, in his report on the route for 
a Pacific railroad near the 35th parallel, represents the route from 
Anton Chico to Albuquerque to be well supplied with water except 
for two months in the year, during which time there is no water on a 
portion of the route though that portion is much less than that men- 
tioned by you. 

Having ascertained a suitable point for boring a well on this route, 
and commenced operations, you will report to this office the exact 
distance at which permanent supplies of water already exist, and 
also the practicability of supplying the intervening spaces with 
water by means of tanks, ponds or dams, in the event of the boring 
proving unsuccessful. 

Yery respectfully, your obedient servant, 

A. A. HUMPHREYS, 
Captain Topographical Engineers, in charge. 

Captain John Pope, 

Topographical Engineers, Fort Davis, Texas, via San Antonio. 



Camp on the Pecos River, 

June 30, 1858. 

Sir : I have the honor to report for the information of the War 
Department, that the boring operations at this place have not been 
carried to any greater depth than was attained at the date of my 
last report. 



24 

Two weeks from June 1 were spent in efforts nearly ineffectual to 
force down the 3^ inch iron tubing. For this purpose, the spring (or 
undercutting) drills were employed and the bore of the well enlarged 
to 41- inches in diameter for seventy-eight feet below the bottom of 
the tube. As I have before stated the friction on the sides of the 
tube is so great that severe driving is necessary in order to move it, 
and after driving down about twelve feet, three screw threads were 
stripped off, and the lower portions of the tube below the fractures 
so much crushed as to render impracticable any further efforts to 
sink it. It cannot, of course, be withdrawn for the same reasons. 
As the well was kept constantly filled up to very near the bottom of 
the iron tubing, it was then necessary to insert again the copper tube 
of smaller diameter. This has been done, and we are now engaged 
in pumping out from the inside of the latter in order that it may sink 
down as far as practicable. Independently of the danger and incon- 
venience of working inside of a tube so small, I have little expecta- 
tion that more than a temporary advantage will be gained by the 
insertion of the copper tube. 

The strata continue to crumble and fall in below where it can pos- 
sibly be driven. I am constrained to say after ten months of very 
severe and unremitted labor that, I fear that, without greater facili- 
ties and more extensive preparations than could have been secured 
under the appropriation for this service, or could have been trans- 
ported without enormous cost, it will be impracticable to overcome 
the mechanical and physical difficulties of this work. 

I have the most experienced and capable superintendent of boring 
to be found in the Avest and a full complement of mechanics and 
borers, who have been for their whole lives employed in such busi- 
ness, and who, under charge of the superintendent now with me, last 
bored the deep and difficult well of Belcher & Co., in St. Louis. 

They are all eminently competent, but the difficulties of the work 
here are foreign to the experience of any artesian well borer in the 
United States. In my own opinion there are but two ways by which 
to accomplish this work, and both involve expenditure beyond the 
reach of this appropriation; tlie first by bringing out very heavy cast 
iron tubes and the necessary driving apparatus, and the second by 
bringing 'tubing of all sizes from three inches to twelve inches in 
diameter. 

In either case the cost would be beyond the reach of any appro- 
priation likely to be made. 

The certainty of getting Avater in this plain to overflow the surface, 
is as well settled in my judgment as it ever was, but the mechanical 
and physical difficulties of executing the work, arising from a most 
peculiar, extensive, and uncommon succession of crumbling strata 
Avhich at a depth of one thousand and forty-seven feet still remain 
of unknown thickness, are beyond measure greater than could have 
been anticipated. 

The point reached by the boring, and the debris pumped out, are 
easily identified with the strata outcropping about forty feet above 
the head spring of Delaware creek and in their immediate vicinity. 



25 

but what thickness the same strata have attained at the point of boring 
it is impossible to say. 

I have the honor again to invite the attention of the department to 
the suggestions for the further prosecution of this work contained in 
my letter of June 4, 1858. 

I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant, 

JOHN POPE, 
Captain Topo(jraphical Engineers. 
Captain A. A. Humphreys, 

Corps of Top' I En(f rs in charge 

Office ExpV s and Surveys, Washington, D. C. 



Camp on Pecos River, 

July 27, 1858. 

Sir: I regret to be obliged to report that the operations at this 
place have not advanced in the least since the date of my last report, 
and that in my judgment and in conformity also with the opinion of 
Mr. Brown, the superintendent and principal mechanic of the arte- 
sian well boring, it will be impracticable without largely increased 
facilities and consequent expenditures to prosecute the work further. 
The difficulties resulting from extreme singularity and extent of geo- 
logical structure, together with the extremely injurious action of the 
Pecos river water upon iron machinery I have already explained to 
the department. 

The boiler of the steam engine has been completely devoured by 
the acids of the water so that iron nuts half an inch thick crumble in the 
hands like clay. The plungers of the supply pump and steam chest 
are completely honeycombed, and every part of the engine accessible 
to the water has been more or less injured by it. It has been neces- 
sary to procure a new boiler in view of any future work, and I have, 
therefore, sent three wagons to Indianola to bring one up. I en- 
deavored after the complete destruction of the boiler to carry on the- 
work by hand, but after a depth of nine hundred feet, boring by hand 
even under favorable circumstances is nearly impracticable, in the 
present case it is wholly so. 

The utmost that 1 am able to do to complete this work has been 
done, and but for the specific orders of the Secretary of War, I should 
move at once from this place to a point east of the Rio Grande and 
west of the Pecos, where the structure is more favorable, and where 
the work could be carried on with some prospect of success. 

I hardly consider it possible under any circumstances to keep this 
party another winter in this plain. The past winter was severe, and 
the men suffered much. It w^as entirely unexpected by every one 
familiar with this bleak and exposed plain, that this command would 
attempt to winter upon it exposed as they must be with very insuf- 
ficient shelter, and I have no idea that any of the civil employes who 
are absolutely necessary for the work could be induced to remain thus 
exposed another winter. The military, of course, could be coerced 



26 

into another campaign equally severe, but they would be uselesg 
alone. 

I lay all these facts, and my own opinions upon them, before the 
■department with great regret. I have long been interested both per- 
sonally and officially in this experiment, and have spent three years 
in laborious eiforts to accomplish it. The disappointment I feel in 
being again obliged to relinquish it uncompleted is very great, but I 
am assured that the department will do justice to the zeal and industry 
with which it has been prosecuted. 

I have the strong belief that the success of the experiment in other 
places wall yet justify the expenditures the government has made, 
to determine a question of so much consequence. 

I shall await the decision of the War Department as to m5' future 
operations at this camp. I regret to report also that scurvy is be- 
ginning to break out in the command, and that no supplies of anti- 
scorbutics can be procured except the fresh vegetables on the Rio 
Grande one hundred and seventy miles distant, and which com- 
pletely spoil before they can be hauled out to this camp. The com- 
mand has now been nearly a year without supplies except the bare 
ration. 

I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant, 

JOHN POPE, 
Captain Topograpical Engineers. 

Captain A. A. Humphreys, 

Corps of Top^l Ung'rs in charge 

Office ExpV s and Surveys, JVasJmigton, D. G. 



Camp on Pecos River, • 
August 22, 1858. 

Sir: I have the honor to report that since the date of my last re- 
port, the work of boring has been completely arrested, as with men 
it is impossible to handle an auger of 1050 feet. I am waiting the 
return of the wagons sent to Indianola, Texas, for a new boiler, but I 
have to say that I do not consider it practicable to carry these borings 
to greater depth with any means within reach of the appropriation. 
It will in my judgment be a waste of time and money further to prose- 
cute the work under present circumstances. I therefore recommend 
that the party be moved to some other of the points designated in my 
instructions, where the chance of success will be far better. 

The geological structure of this plain is so very peculiar, its extent 
so much greater than is known to the experience of any geologist, and 
in consequence the mechanical and physical difficulties of carrying 
borings to a greater depth, have been so constant and so unusual in the 
history of such operations, that after a whole year of unremitted and 
laborious work, the boring has been scarcely at all advanced. 

Facilities and conveniences impossible to secure at a point so remote 
will be essential to a successful completion of any such experiment on 
the Llano Estacado, and until the government is willing to go to ex- 



27 

pense beyond reasonable hope, I fear this groat plain must be left to 
its pristine solitude and desolation. 

As the department is doubtless familiar with such operations, I will 
explain briefly the peculiar obstacles we have encountered, the more 
remarkable from the great depth to wdiich they have pursued us. 

The upper geological formations of this plain consist of what are 
known to geologists as cretaceous strata^ which here are nothing 
more than alternations of strata of soft sandstones and variegated 
marls and clays. In every other part of the world, where these 
strata have been developed, they are comparatively of small ex- 
tent, particularly in depth, and with a short departure from the 
surface of the ground, the sandstones become much harder, and the 
variegated marls and clays become gradually converted into shales 
and slates. Almost the precise reverse seems to be the case here, 
and at a depth of one thousand and fifty feet the strata are softer and 
crumble more easily than at the surface. We have encountered occa- 
sional thin seams of flinty limestone, but of too little extent to modify 
the very peculiar physical character of this formation. 

The first effect of such a geological structure is the necessity of 
tubing any well to be bored from the very surface, and forcing or try- 
ing to force the tube to follow the auger closely. This I found is 
easy enough to do, as I had come prepared for such obstacles, and had 
plenty of wrought iron tubing and spring or undercutting drills. 
With the latter we were able, without the least difticulty, to enlarge 
the bore, below the tube, to any size necessary; but we had not pro- 
gressed more than six hundred feet with the work, until the friction 
along the sides of the tube, from top to bottom, resulting from the 
falling in around of the loose, crumbling strata, absolutely prevented 
it from moving down, although the bore beloAv was a full inch and a 
half greater in diameter than the outside of the tubing. I then com- 
menced to drive, and succeeded, by using great care, in getting it 
down two hundred feet further. Beyond that depth, the friction be- 
came so great, that the force necessary to overcome it crushed the 
wrought iron tube, and stripped off the screw threads at the joints. 

It was impossible to carry the boring below the tube, as the crumb- 
ling strata of marls and soft sandstones commenced at once to fall in, 
when unsupported, and filled up the well faster than it could be 
pumped out. I had, however, anticipated this difficulty, and had 
brought out tubing of different diameters; and as soon as I found that 
the large tube could be drawn no further, a smaller one was pressed 
down inside, and the diameter of the well reduced. 

For a while this obviated the difficulty, but after one hundred and 
fifty feet the small tube could no longer be forced down, and the 
strata still continued soft, and fell in constantly. 

By tliese means, and with the severest labor I ever saw, both night 
and day, exposed on this bleak plain with little protection to an 
inclement winter, we succeeded in reaching a depth of one thousand 
and fifty feet; no change whatever has occurred in the strata ; they 
are as soft and crumbling at the bottom of the well as at the top, and 
it is impossible to say how much longer they will continue so. 



28 

These constitute our physical difficulties, and they are, so far as I 
know, foreign to the experience of any well borer in the United 
States. Certainly no difficulties of the kind are recorded in the his- 
tory of such operations elsewhere. The mechanical difficulties of the 
work have also been peculiar and almost irreparable. 

The water used in the boiler of the steam engine was hauled in 
wagons from the Pecos river, a distance of eight miles. It carries an 
enormous quantity of angular sand and finely comminuted gypsum in. 
suspension, and causes by these means the utmost trouble in getting 
the boiler free from the solid and rapid incrustation accumulated on* 
the flues. 

The gypsum and sand t3ombined form a crust as hard as flint, and. 
so firmly attached to the iron that it was necessary to take down the 
boiler and chip it off with chisels. If left more than six days it be- 
came at least half an inch thick. The sand also completely cut to 
pieces and honeycombed the valves and plungers of the supply pump 
until it became altogether useless, and I was obliged to send to Gal- 
veston for another. 

The water of the Pecos also contains a large quantity of free acids, 
which absolutely devoured the iron, until the boiler a few days ago* 
became completely useless, and I have again been compelled to send 
to Galveston. At least two-thirds of the thickness of the boiler iron 
was eaten up by the acids, and iron nuts half an inch thick crumbled 
in the hands like dried clay. The plunger of the steam chest is also 
completely honeycombed ; and wherever iron has been exposed to the 
action of this water, especially in a boiling state, it has been greatly 
injured. 

Such in brief are the difficulties, mechanical and physical, which 
have so long embarrassed the work, and which I fear it will be im- 
possible to surmount at a place so remote from every convenience, and 
where it is so nearly impracticable to replace any part of the necessary 
machinery. 

With very heavy cast iron tubeg and driving apparatus it might be 
practicable to complete these borings; but the transportation alone of 
such heavy articles, in quantities sufficient for the object, would involve 
an expense beyond the reach of any appropriation Congress will ever 
make for such a purpose. 

This, however, is but one of many points had in view for these 
experiments when I left Washington, and I do not doubt I shall have 
much better success elsewhere, as tliis plain stands alone in its pecu- 
liar character. 

In the boring, so far as we have carried it, abundant springs of 
water have been passed through, (four or five in number,) but they 
do not rise to the surface, and their existence is rather a disadvantage 
to the work, as they greatly increase the rapidity of the falling in of 
soft strata. 

My opinions about the certainty of getting water to overflow the 
surface are by no means changed; but the boring operations are diffi- 
cult far beyond my anticipations, and lead to the conclusion that, 



29 

under the present condition of this country, the expense of successfully 
•completing the well would not be justified by its necessity. 

The man in charge of the work bored the deep well of Belcher <fe 
Brother in St. Louis, and has with him the same mechanics and borers 
employed on that work. He is eminently competent, and indefatigable; 
and his conduct here has fully justified the high recommendation with 
which he joined me. 

It is of course a disappointment to me, under the circumstances, 
again to leave this work unfinished, but the best that was possible 
has been done, and there is nothing more to be said. 
I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant, 

JOHN POPE, 
Caj^tain TopograpJdccd Engineers. 
Capt. A. A. Humphreys, 

Corps Top^l Eng^ s, Washington, D. C. 



Camp near Fort Fillmore, N. M., 

September 6, 1858. 

Sir: I have the honor to report that, in accordance with the ap- 
proval of the War Department contained in your letter of July 10, I 
l)roke up my camp on the Pecos, and am now en route for the route 
between Albuquerque and Anton Chico. 

My communication of August 22 will inform you fully of the con- 
dition of the work near the Pecos, and the grounds upon which I 
broke up my camp immediately upon receipt of your letter of July 
10. Nothing had been done for several weeks previous, for the 
reasons stated, and both time and means were being lost by further 
delay at that place. 

I shall march for Galisteo to-morrow, and shall probably reach 
there by the 21st instant. A full report and sketches will be trans- 
mitted to the department immediately upon my arrival at that place. 

I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant, 

JOHN POPE, 
Captain Topographical Engineers. 

Captain A. A. Humphreys, 

Corps Topograp)hical Engineers, TVashi^igton, D. C. 



COLORADO EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 



PRELIMINARY REPORT 



FIRST LIEUT. J. C. IVES, 



TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 



T* 



CAPTAIN A. A. HUMPHREYS, 

TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 



IN CHARGE OF THE OFFICE OF EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS, 
WAR DEPARTMENT, NOVEMBER 1858. 



Washington, November 1, 1858. 

Captain: I have the honor to submit, for the information of the 
department, the following brief synopsis of a portion of the results 
of the expedition organized under my command for the exploration 
of the Rio Colorado of the west. 

I sailed from San Francisco for the mouth of the Colorado river on 
the 1st of November, 1857, in the quartermaster's schooner used in 
transporting stores to the head of the Gulf of California. On board 
were the property and supplies belonging to the expedition, and also 
the materials for constructing a small iron steamer, to be employed in 



32 

ascending the river. I was accompanied by a steamboat engineer 
and a party of seven men. The other assistants and empk^yes took 
the steamer for San Diego, and crossed by land to Fort Yuma, which 
is on the Colorado, 160 miles above its mouth. 

EXTENT OF EXPLORATIONS. 

The schooner arrived at the mouth of the river on the 2d of De- 
cember, having been much delayed by calms and head winds. The 
steamboat was finished and launched on the 30th of the same month, 
and the ascent of the river was commenced on the day following. I 
continued up the river for 500 miles, reaching, on the 11th of March, 
in latitude 36° 06', the mouth of a stream supposed to be the Rio 
Yirgen, beyond which it was impracticable to proceed in boats. I 
therefore sent back the steamboat and the hydrographic party to Fort 
Yuma, and, taking advantage of the permission granted in the in- 
structions from the department, left the river on the 23d of March, 
with a pack train, to examine as far as possible the country through 
which the upper Colorado and its tributaries flow. 

Keeping as near as possible to the river, I traversed the region 
along the 36th parallel, the greater portion of which had been 
previously unexplored. Most of the line of the 35th parallel was 
also visited. Following various lines of examination gradually con- 
ducting towards the east, I arrived, about the 1st of June, at Albu- 
querque, on the Rio Grande, the distance accomplished during the 
land explorations amounting to nearly 900 miles. At Albuquerque 
the expedition was broken up, a few members of the party still re- 
tained returning home by the overland route to Fort Leavenworth. 

NAVIGABILITY OF THE COLORADO. 

During the progress of my work upon the navigable portion of the 
Colorado the water happened to be, according to the evidence of 
those who had lived in that vicinity for many years, unprecedentedly 
low. An opportunity was therefore afforded of trying the experiment 
of steam navigation at the worst stage of the river, and at a time 
when the difficulties ordinarily to be encountered would be consid- 
erably magnified. 

The region at the mouth of the Colorado is a flat expanse of mud. 
The lines of the shore and the channels that afford entrance to ves- 
sels from the Gulf are shifting and changeable, and bars, shoals, and 
islands, composed of a semi-fluid mass, are in constant progress of 
formation and removal. The navigation for thirty miles above is 
rendered periodically dangerous by the strength and magnitude of 
the spring tides. These have a rise and fall of from twenty-five to 
thirty feet, and a flow of extraordinary velocity. The flood is pre- 
ceded by a "bore," or huge tide wave, from four to seven feet high. 



33 

In certain narrow bends it is verv powerful and violent, but gradually 
loses its force as it ascends, and at a distance of thirty miles is scarcely 
perceptible. Along wider portions of the river there are curves of 
the shore in which its force is not felt, and here boats may be safely 
moored till this dangerous wave has rolled by. Upon the shoals are 
formed what are called "tide rips," where the sudden check given 
to the rushing volume of water causes it to bound along in high suc- 
cessive waves. Steamboats that come to the mouth of the river 
during the spring tides must descend from above tide water during 
the ebb, and start to return two or three hours after the commence- 
ment of the flood. 

The neap tides have a rise and fall of only ten feet, and a moderate 
velocity. 

Between tide water and Fort Yuma the principal obstructions to 
navigation are the sand bars. These become more frequent and 
difficult as the river is ascended. The channel is exceedingly circuitous 
and constantly changing. The average depth is about eight feet. 
Shoals were frequently encountered, however, where there were 
scarcely two feet of water. Experience alone can afford the capability 
of navigating this portion of the river successfully. A knowledge of 
the locality of the channel cannot be imparted, as it has been known 
to shift from one bank to the opposite one in a single night. From 
the formation of the banks, from the appearance of the water, of the 
eddies, of pieces of drift wood and other floating substances, and of 
the islands and bars visible above the surface, a practiced eye can do 
much towards selecting the proper course, though boats rarely make 
a trip between tide water and Fort Yuma, at the low stage of the 
river, without grounding many times a day. The bars, however, are 
composed of soft and loose material, and may always be passed with 
more or less labor, depending in a great measure upon the skill shown 
in the employment of the different methods of extrication resorted to. 

Below Fort Yuma there are no rocks. The snags are numerous, 
but seldom dangerous. 

During the months of April, May, and June, while the river is 
rising, and before new bars have had time to form, the navigation is 
most easy. The average velocity of the current at low water is two 
and a half miles an hour, during the July freshet from five to six. 
The river at this season is about ten feet higher than during the 
winter months. 

For three or four years an enterprising company has been engaged 
in transporting government stores in steamboats from the mouth ot 
the Colorado to Fort Yimia, and their persevering energy has so far 
succeeded in overcoming the natural difficulties of the navigation as 
to enable them now to perform the trips with entire regularity and 
certainty. 

For one hundred and eighty miles above Fort Yuma the navigation 
has a character similar to that already described. The river passes 
through several chains of hills and mountains, forming gorges of 
canons, sometimes of a considerable size, and in tliese there is gen- 
erallv a better cliannol than in the valleys. 
3 H 



During the next hundred miles gravelly bars are of frequent occur- 
rence, and at some of them the stream presents almost the appearance 
of a rapid. In the intervals between, in both valleys and canons, are 
stretches of good river, and although the bad places are worse, the 
channel generally is better than it is beloAV. 

For the succeeding fifty miles the river bed is composed in a great 
measure of coarse gravel and stones, and many swift rapids were en- 
countered. Upon several were found not over two feet of water. In 
this portion of the river there are a few sunken rocks, that would be 
dangerous till their position became known. 

The "Black Caiion," which is twenty-five miles in extent, is now 
reached, and in it the rapids are numerous and difficult. 

Above the caiion the river is wide and shallow, and assumes the 
character of a rapid for so long a distance as to render any attempts 
to carry boats to a higher point almost valueless, and, considering the 
difficulty, hazard, and expense that would be incurred at the low stage 
of water in taking steamboats through the caiion, I am of the opinion 
that its mouth should be considered the practical head of navigation. 
Up to this point the Colorado, notwithstanding the difficulties to be 
encountered, may be pronounced navigable. The experiment was 
attempted, as has been stated, at a time when the river had expe- 
rienced an unprecedented fall. At most seasons of the year the navi- 
gation would be much easier and better, and a boat of suitable model 
and dimensions, and drawing, when loaded, but two feet, would be 
able to ascend the Colorado to the mouth of the Black Canon with as 
much regularity and certainty as the steamboats now upon the river 
ply between the head of the Gulf and Fort Yuma. Although during 
high water the river experiences a great rise, the whole channel is 
not proportionally deepened. New bars commence at once to form, 
and at all seasons shoals are liable to be encountered. An iron stern - 
wheel steamer, one hundred feet long, of twenty-two feet beam, built 
full, and with a perfectly flat bottom, having a large boiler and pow- 
erful high-pressure engine, and drawing, when light, but twelve inches, 
would be the description of boat best adapted for the service. 

Wood of excellent quality for the purpose of fuel can be obtained 
in abundance on the bank at short intervals between the mouth of 
the river and a point fifteen miles below the Black Canon. It is prin- 
cipally mezquite, Avillow, and cottonwood. 

CONNEXION OF THE HEAD OF NAVIGATION WITH UTAH. 

A reconnaissance made from the foot of the Black Caiion towards 
the nearest point on the emigrant trail to Utah showed that a wagon 
road might be opened between the trail and the head of navigation. 
For sixteen miles, while passing through the gravel hills and ravines 
that cover the eastern slope of the intervening range of mountains, 
the country is somewhat rough, and a little work would be required 
to make a good roadway, but after reaching the summit there would 



35 

be no further difficulty. The diytauce iVorn the i-iver to tlie emig'raut 
road is about forty miles. 



TOPOORAPHICAL DESCRIPTTON OP THE REGION TRAVERSED. 

The navigable portion of the Colorado runs nearly north and south. 
Near the Gulf the surface on either side is perfectly unbroken, the 
view being limited towards the west by distant spurs from the moun- 
tains of Lower California, and towards the east by the great Sonora 
desert. Furth(*r north broad valleys alternate with wild and rugged 
ranges of mountains, of volcanic origin, that cross the river in almost 
parallel northwest and southeast lines. The canons formed by the 
passage of the river through some of these mountain chains are 
probably unequalled in beauty and grandeur by any similar forma- 
tions. In the Elack Canon the deep and narrow current flows be- 
tween massive walls of rock that rise sheer from the water for over a 
thousand feet, seeming almost to meet in the dizzy height above. 
The tortuous course of the river, as it winds through /nese sombre- 
depths, where the rays of the sun rarely penetrate, gives infinite 
variety to the majestic outlines of the overhanging masses, forming 
combinations whose collossal proportions and fantastic sublimity it 
would be impossible to figure or describe. 

Above the canon, in the vicinity of the mouth of the Virgen, is the 
most rugged and sterile region that I have ever beheld. Barren 
piles of rock, heaped together in chaotic disorder, and exhibiting on 
their broad surfaces no trace of vegetation, extend for miles in almost 
every direction. The volcanic upheavals, which have here their 
northern limit, appear to have experienced also their most violent 
action. Beyond, towards the north and east, the country is undis- 
turbed, and a region is entered upon that presents totally new fea- 
tures and peculiarities. This is a vast table land, hundreds of miles 
in breadth, extending eastward to the mountains of the Sierra Madre, 
and stretching far north into Utah. To the extreme limit of vision 
immense plateaus rise, one above the other, in successive steps, the 
floors of the most elevated being from seven to eight thousand feet 
above the level of the sea. The Colorado and its tributaries, seeking: 
the level of the low region to the southwest, have, by ages of wear 
and abrasion, cut their wav through this huge formation, making 
canons that are in some places more than a mile in depth. The 
mighty avenues of the main water-courses are the thoroughfares into 
which smaller but still giant chasms debouch, and these in turn have 
their own subordinate tributaries, forming a maze of yawning abysses, 
generally inaccessible, and whose intricacies it would be a hopeless 
task to attempt to unravel. Twice only, after long and difficult clam- 
bering down the sides of precipices and through walled approaches 
that seemed to be leading into the bowels of the earth, were the 
banks of the streams below finally attained. One place was on the 
Colorado itself, and the other near the mouth of one of its larger 



36 

tributaries. Except at the place of descent the canon of the river, 
as far as it could be seen, showed no point of practicable ingress or 
outlet, and the appearance of the torrent, foaming and surging along 
its confined bed, left little room for doubt as to what would be the 
result of any attempt, such as has been sometimes suggested, to 
explore -the river in boats from its sources above. 

So numerous and so closely interlaced are the canons in some por- 
tion of this singular region that they have displaced all but scattered 
remnants of the original plateau, leaving narrow Avails, isolated ridges, 
and spires so slender that they seem to totter upon their bases, 
shooting up to an enormous height from the vaults below. 

The natural surface of the country opposes insurmountable barriers 
to travelling in any fixed direction, and the aridity of the accessible 
portions of the table lands rendered the explorations difficult. Though 
the season of the year was the most favorable for finding water, much 
inconvenience was experienced from its scarcity, and it is doubtful 
whether during the dry months the examinations could have been 
prosecuted at all. 

West of the Little Colorado belts of cedar and pine forests some- 
what relieve the general aspect of barrenness, but travelling east- 
ward, between that river and the towns of the Moquis Indians, the 
country becomes almost entirely a desert. The immense stretches of 
sandy soil are broken only by ridges of brilliant red and yellow marls, 
that intensify the heat and glare of the sun. The mirage ordinarily 
existing in such localities assumes generally the appearance of water, 
and is rendered peculiarly unpleasant from the known absence of that 
element over the whole i;egion in question. Still further east the 
table lands begin to mingle with spui's from the Sierra Madre, the 
country becomes more broken and diversified, and the desert gives 
place to the habitable Navajo territory that borders the mountains 
west of the Rio Grande. 

INDIAN TRIBES ENCOUNTERED. 

The Indians living along the lower portions of the Colorado, com- 
prising the Cocopa, Yuma, Chemehuevis, and Mojave tribes, have 
become tolerably well known from the narratives of persons who have 
within the last few years passed through their territory. Their num- 
bers have been, I think, over estimated. Idle and inquisitive, they 
assemble en mas,se from far and near at the approach of strangers, and 
give an impression of a much larger population than really exists. 
The crowds that collected each day at the prominent points of the 
banks to watch the steamboat pass by appeared at first to present 
continual ncAv sets of individuals, but it was found, after time had 
made familiar the portions of the faces that the paint and mud per- 
mitted to be visible, that the composition of the successive throngs 
was in a great measure the same. The Mojave tribe, which has been 
least exposed to intercourse with whites, appeared to be considerably 
the most numerous. Their symmetrical proportions and stalwart 
frames have obtained for them the reputation among all that have 



37 

been among them of being the finest race physically upon the 
continent. 

The region east of the Colorado, along both the 36th and 35th 
parallels, is almost nninhabited. Inconsiderable bands of Tonto 
Apaches wander at some seasons over portions of it, and are occa- 
sionally encoimtered. Two small tribes were found living in the 
plateau canons of the Colorado, corresponding in appearance to 
descriptions given of stragglers that had been met by parties cros- 
sing the country further south. There are but a few hundreds of 
them in all, and they are a diminutive wretched race. Their rude 
huts of boughs and stones are perched, like birds' nests, in crevices 
on the sides of the cliffs. Fish from the river, a scanty store of corn, 
wrung from some comparatively^ sunny spot in the dismal ravine, and 
what little game they can secure, constitute the resources which 
enable them to keep life in their bodies. Buried in the almost sub- 
terranean caverii«, where alone they can obtain a permanent supply 
of water, most of them live and die entirely isolated from the world 
above. Their lonely and monotonous life seems to have deadened 
every faculty and emotion. It might have been supposed that the 
appearance of the first party of whites that had ever penetrated their 
retreats would liave occasioned some sensation; but though the train 
of men and animals must have come down amongst them entirely 
unexpectedly, the novel spectacle excited no more apparent interest 
in the individuals encountered than in the toads that were hopping 
about among the rocks at their feet. 

The Moquis Indians, whose residences border upon the country 
of the Navajoes, were the first large tribe seen after leaving the 
Colorado. There are seven towns, dignified by the early Spanish 
explorers with the titles of cities, and ruins of others that are now 
deserted. The tribe is much smaller than has been sometimes stated. 
The number of the population has been supposed to be about 7,000, 
but I should consider one-half of this an extravagant estimate. The 
towns are situated within a few miles of each other, and on the tops 
of isolated and precipitous hills. Tliey are enclosed by walls of 
stone, and tolerably well constructed. The houses are built around 
an open court, and the only mode of entrance is by ladders that con- 
duct to a small platform on the top of the exterior wall, upon which 
the doors and windows of the habitations open. Springs near the 
summits of the hills furnish a supply of water, and to provide against 
seasons of drought there are large stone reservoirs, exceedingly 
well made, placed in the hollows along the faces of the bluffs. Some 
of the towns are approached by flights of stone steps, and the steep 
ascent is laid out in neatly arranged terraced gardens ; the masonry 
of the revetments being kept in excellent order and preservation. 
Orchards of peach trees, bearing an indifferent quality of fruit, grow 
on the hill sides. In the broad valley below are fields of cotton, 
corn, pumpkins and melons, whose cultivation, under great disadvan- 
tages of soil, climate and agricultural outfit, exhibits a degree of 
industry that in an Indian is truly remarkable. Both men and women 
labor in the field. They possess a considerable number of sheep, 



38 

nearly all of a jet black color, and some poultry. The women wear 
a long black gown of their own weaving, and the men variegated 
blankets, also of home manufacture. They are a shambling, ill- 
made race, with pleasant though homely faces, and are perfectly 
peaceful and inoffensive. They seem to suffer little molestation from 
more warlike tribes, which is due less to their own prowess than to 
the natural defences of their towns, whose commanding position and 
difficult approach afford security against both surprise and assault. 
The progress they have made in agriculture and manufactures helps 
to maintain their peaceful relations, Indians from all parts of New 
Mexico and from Utah having recourse to them for blankets, and in 
time of scarcity for provisions. Their unruly and powerful neigh- 
bors, the Navajoes, sometimes commit depredations upon them, but 
even with these an appearance of friendly intercourse is preserved. 
A curious fact was noticed, and illustrative of certain peculiarities of 
the Indian race, that the whole tribe do not speak the same language; 
the individuals in some of the towns absolutely professing to be 
unable to understand what is said by the residents of others. 

A large portion of the Navajo territory was traversed, but its in- 
habitants have become so well known since the establishment of a 
military post in their midst as to require no particular description. 

AGRICULTURAL VALUE OF THE COUNTRY EXPLORED. 

A discussion of the agricultural value of the region explored, or its 
capability of sustaining a population would involve many considera- 
tions — some of an intricate character, a fair exposition of which 
would require a degree of detail much beyond the limits of the 
present communication. A few general facts and conclusions only 
can be stated. 

During the explorations all of the lands upon the Colorado, from 
its mouth to the 36th parallel, and the greater portion of the region 
along both the 35tli and 36th parallels, between the Colorado and 
the Rio Grande, was traversed. Much of the country had been pre- 
viously explored, and a considerable portion of it — particularly some 
of the open valleys of the Great and Little Colorado rivers, and the 
Navajo country, pronounced by excellent authorities a good agri- 
cultural region — capable of a high degree of cultivation. Many facts 
were noticed during the examinations that tended to confirm this 
view, but certain unfavorable features were also apparent. Of the 
valleys upon the Colorado that of the Mojave Indians, which borders 
the 35th parallel, is by far the finest, and is perhaps the most pro- 
mising looking region in the portion of New Mexico west of the Rio 
Grande. It was visited in the season of spring, which in that cli- 
mate is during the month t)f February. The atmosphere Avas inde- 
scribably balmy and delicious. A pale transparent haze, of a pecu- 
liar delicate blue, which all must have noticed who have bisen in this 
valley, enveloped it with a softened glow. In brilliant contrast to 
the dark and frowning mountains on either side were groves of trees, 
with fresh and beautiful foliago. dotting the whole expanse of the 



39 

foreground. Fields of wheat, corn, beans, pumpkins, and melons, 
promising a luxuriant crop, met the eye in every direction. Com- 
fortable houses and well built granaries, overflowing with the last 
year's stores, testified to the provident affluence of the inhabitants; 
and the robust appearance of the people themselves, with their well 
developed frames and solid glossy limbs, betokened a high degree 
of health, comfort and good living. That, for the number of In- 
dians who now inhabit it, with their habits and mode of living, the 
country is an excellent one there can be no doubt. Whether it 
could ever be of much value to whites admits of a great deal. 

The shifting of the bed of the Colorado would be a cause of great 
trouble in so narrow a valley. The changes occur with a rapidity 
and to an extent that can be scarcely appreciated by one avIio has not 
witnessed them. Having passed through the country in the spring 
of 1854, while accompanying the expedition of Lieutenant Whipple 
for the location of a railroad route along the 35th parallel, I had an 
opportunity of observing the effects of this action, which were so 
great as to justif^y the inference that every portion of the cultivable 
bottom lands is liable to be in turn overrun by the river. To the 
Indians, who have a certain community of property and interest and 
no valuable improvements to lose, this is a matter of no vital moment, 
but the white settler would be much discouraged from putting up 
buildings and fences, and digging the ditches necessary for purposes 
of irrigation, by the knowledge that at any day the river might direct 
its course through his premises. 

Freshets occur at periodical intervals which subject large portions 
of the valleys to inundation. For four or five months of the year the 
rays of the sun are so intense and burning that no vegetation can 
withstand their influence, and during the very early spring, some- 
times, when at midday there is an ordinary summer temperature, ice 
will be found at night. The growing season is thus rendered exceed- 
ingly short, and a single accident to a crop would, for that year, be 
without remedy. Seasons have occurred within a few years when 
the Mojaves have been subjected from this cause to great privations, 
and lost considerable numbers from actual starvation. 

The composition of difterent portions of the soil was carefully 
examined by Dr. Newberry, the geologist of the expedition, and I 
am informed by him that, though much of it is so constituted as to be 
fertile, very large tracts in the higher parts of the valleys are so im- 
paired by an excess of alkaline substances as to be comparatively 
valueless. 

In forming an opinion of the value of the region some weight, too, 
should be attached to the fact that the races upon the river do not 
multiply. The records of the early Spanish explorers show a dimi- 
nution rather than an increase of population since that period, and 
for this there is no assignable cause, unless it may be the incapacity 
of the country to sustain a large number of inhabitants. The Mojaves 
have had no communication with the whites, excepting when a wan- 
dering trapper or some exploring party has passed by their territory. 
A peaceful, yet a powerful people, and guarded on every side by 



40 

difficult mountains, they have suffered little from wars with other 
tribes. Their mode of life has conduced to the highest state of 
physical development. The marriage relation, as has been noticed 
by all who have been among them, is respected in more than an 
ordinary degree among Indians, and there seems to be no reason, ex- 
cept that above stated, why they should not have become a numerous 
nation. 

The remarks made respecting this locality will apply, and perhaps 
in a stronger manner, to the rest of the country on the river, and 
also to the valley of the Little Colorado. The latter region abounds 
in ruins and vestiges of a former population,but is now uninhabited. 

The remainder of the great area of territory examined presents, 
also, its discouraging features. The northern portion is much the 
worse. Besides the deserts that have been alluded to, in the timbered 
region itself are found broad tracts where the vegetation has become 
extinct, and the white and withered trunks are scattered like monu- 
ments over a vast cemetery of departed life. No indication of fire 
exists. The destruction has been gradual, and an impression is con- 
veyed of some deadly rot slowly creeping over the surface of the 
country. Want of rain is undoubtedly the great cause of the evil. 
Near the abandoned ruins of several of the Moquis towns no water 
can now be found. This people, though exposed to no contact with 
whites, have partially dwindled away, and their ultimate fate, if the 
same meteorological condition continues, can be a question of little 
doubt. 

Along the 35th parallel, within the limit of the volcanic dis- 
turbances, much of the country is better, and at some seasons of the 
year very attractive. After the melting snows of spring, and during 
the autumnal rains, a more smiling picture of green forest glades, 
sparkling streams, verdant hills, and wild flowers, the eye could not 
desire to dwell upon; and, excepting that the surface of the soil is 
in most places closely packed with lava rocks, there would seem to be 
a promising field for the agriculturist. Evidence, however, has been 
collected of seasons of drought so excessive as to render it doubtful 
whether more than a small portion of the country could ever be in- 
habited. 

Over the whole of this region and tliat first alluded to remains 
of buildings and fragments of pottery are found, and this fact has 
been adduced as an argument to establish the present capability of 
the country to sustain a population; but there is an analogy between 
these mouldering ruins and the dead forest near by suggestive of a 
different conclusion, giving rise to a doubt whether the decay of one 
race of inhabitants might not have been induced by influences that 
would be efl'ectual to prevent the introduction of another, 

MINERAL RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY. 

The mineral resources of some })arts of the country explored are 
considerable. The ranges of mountains that cross the navigable 
portion of the Colorado, whicli belong to the same system as those of 



41 

California and Sonora, are, like them, the repositories of a large 
•amount of mineral wealth. They were examined by Dr. Newberry 
with as great thoroughness and care as the character of the expe- 
dition would permit, and found to be traversed by veins of such 
magnitude and richness as to give promise of a field of extensive 
mining operations. The metals, as far as observed, were gold and 
mercury in small quantity, silver, copper, and lead in rich and valu- 
able deposits, and iron in the greatest abundance. 

The close proximity of the treasures of these mountains to water 
transportation greatly enhances their value. A copper mine that 
promises to be highly successful is now being worked forty miles 
above Fort Yuma. 

In the country of the upper Colorado the useful minerals found 
were iron, coal, rock salt, and marble. From their geographical 
position they have little pecuniary value, though their existence in 
that region is a fact of great scientific interest. On the sides of the 
canons were splendid exposures of the stratified rocks which compose 
the great table lands of New Mexico, exhibiting all of the formations 
from the base of the series to the tertiary. 

TRANSPORTATION FACILITIES OF THE COLORADO. 

An estimate has been already presented to the department of the 
probable cost of transportation of stores to different points upon the 
Colorado. Fort Yuma is the only military post at present supplied 
in this way. The undertaking, while in its infancy, has been more 
expensive than it would be were the amount of business greater and 
the system fairly organized, but has proved in every respect superior 
to the slow, difficult, and expensive overland transportation. The 
increased amount of emigrant travel along the 35th and 32d parallels, 
the overland mail routes, the military post which must soon be re- 
quired in the Mojave valley, and the mining operations, both upon 
the Colorado and in Arizona, will add largely to the business upon 
the river. Many distant points miglit profit by the facilities of 
approach it affords. Without entering into all of the details, which 
will be ])rcsented elsewhere, it may be stated that the amount of 
land transportation saved b}" sending supplies by this channel would 
be, to Salt Lake 700 miles; to Fort Defiance 600 miles; and to Fort 
Buchanan, near Tucson, 1,100 miles. A steamboat of the character 
previously described in ascending from the mouth of the river to the 
head of navigation would probably occupy from ten to twenty days, 
depending upon the season of the year and the stage of the water. 
There may be both delay and trouble in organizing a large transpor- 
tation establishment in so new and in some respects so difticult a 
region, but I can see no reason why the Colorado should not at some 
day be used as the medium of communication with the greater portion 
of New Mexico, Eastern California, and Utah. 

SUMMARY OF FIELD OPERATIONS. 

The examination of the natural history of the region explored was 
zealouslv conducted bv Dr. Newberrv. wliose name is well known in 



42 

cennexion with such labors. Many new and interesting species of 
fossils, minerals, plants, and animals were collected. The geological 
results are of the highest interest. In making the collections Dr. 
Newberry was much assisted by Mr. H. B. Mollhausen, who also pre- 
pared a valuable series of illustrations of the more remarkable locali- 
ties along the route. 

Of the navigable portion of the river a careful and detailed survey 
was made, the labor being principally performed by Mr. C. Bielawski, 
of San Francisco. A set of meteorological and tidal observations and 
a topographical reconnaissance from Fort Tejon to Fort Yuma were 
faithfully conducted by Mr. P. H. Taylor, assisted by Mr. C. K. 
Booker. 

The steamboat was taken to the mouth of the river, and there put 
together by the engineer, Mr. A. J. Carroll, of Philadelphia. The 
work w^as executed under peculiarly unfavorable circumstances, with 
surprising expedition, and with an ingenuity and zeal that I cannot 
too highly commend. During the trip up the river the post of pilot 
was filled by Captain D. C. Robinson, who had for many years lived 
upon the Colorado, and the successful ascent and descent of the river 
may be attributed to the energy, coolness, and thorough capacity 
with which he accomplished his duties. 

A small party accompanied the land explorations, consisting of 
seven assistants and employes and a few Mexican packers, with an 
escort of twenty men, under the command of Lieutenant John Tipton, 
3d artillery. To this officer I am indebted for valuable assistance in 
the astronomical and meteorological departments of the survey, and 
for the excellent order and discipline maintained safely throughout 
the trip among the individuals of his command. 

The train while following the bank of the river and crossing the 
country was in charge of Mr. G. H. Peacock, of California, whose 
good care and experienced management brought it safely through a 
country of no ordinary difficulty. 

The work of computing the astronomical positions and barometric 
altitudes is now in progress. Maps of the region explored are being 
constructed by Mr. F. W. EgloSstein, who- accompanied the expe- 
dition as topographer, and who neglected no opportunity of obtaining, 
though often at the cost of great privation and exposure, an accurate 
knowledge of every portion of the region traversed. 

During the explorations the health of all of the members of the 
party was good, and no accident of any kind occurred. 

Respo<•tfull3^ your obedient servant, 

J. C. IVES, 
l.sf Livutenant Topograplmvl Engineers^ 
Cohnnandmj Colorado Exphving Expedition. 

A. A. Humphreys, 

Captain Topor/rap/iical Engineers, in charge of BureaiX 

of Explored ions and Sin-i^ei/s. War Department, 



PRELIMINARY REPORT 



EXPLORATIONS 



NEBRASKA AND DAKOTA, 



YEARS 1855-^56-^57, 



LIEUT. G. K. WARREN. TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS. U. S, ARMY. 



WASHINGTON: 
1859. 



45 



EXPLORATIONS IN NEBRASKA AND DAKOTA. 

Preliminary report of Lieut. G. K. Warren, Topographical Engineers, 
to Captain A. A. Humphreys, Topographical Engineers, in charge of 
O^ce of Explorations and Surveys, War Department. 

Washington, D. C, November 24, 1858. 

Captain : I have the honor to submit the following preliminary 
report on the results of the explorations conducted by me in Nebraska 
in the years 1855,-'56,-'57. This report is divided as follows : 

1st. Koutes explored, and main incidents affecting their direction 
and extent. 

2d. Physical geography of Nebraska, character of the soil, and 
resources of the country. 

3d. Kemarks upon the climate and meteorology. 

4th. A description of the principal rivers, and discussion of the 
merits of different routes. And 

5th. An enumeration of the Indian tribes, military posts, and routes 
for military operations. 

To the report is annexed a small map of Nebraska on a scale of 1 to 
6,000,000, showing the main physical features of the country and the 
routes requiring further examination, as well as those already explored. 
The report is accompanied by catalogues of the paleontological, min- 
eralogical, botanical, and zoological specimens collected on our explo- 
rations, prepared by Dr. F. V. Hayden, so as to show the localities 
where they were found. Much useful instruction as to the manner of 
making meteorological observations and collecting specimens in natural 
history was given to us by the officers of the Smithsonian Institution, 
and the secretary, Professor Henry, furnished us with rooms in which to 
store the collections and elaborate the results. A brief report, by Dr. 
Samuel Moffett^ of the health of the party during the expedition in 
185Y, is also appended. 

We have found it necessary to defer to a subsequent report the narra- 
tive and itinerary of the routes, the complete maps, profiles, and other 
illustrations, the tables of meteorological observations, and the results 
of our collections and observations in geology, botany, &c. 

Some of the geological results have already been published by per- 
mission of the War Department in papers read by Dr. Hayden, Mr. 
F. B. Meek, and Dr. Joseph Leidy, before the Academy of Natural 
Sciences of Philadelphia. A letter prepared by me for the Hon. G. 
W. Jones, senator from Iowa, has also been published, accompanied 
by a small map of Nebraska, on a scale of 1 to 6,000,000. This map 
has also been colored so as to indicate approximately the geological 
formations, and in this shape is published with one of the papers pre- 
pared by Dr. Hayden in the proceedings of the Academy of Natural 
Sciences of Philadelphia. 

A map of my explorations in Nebraska was ordered to be engraved 
by the United States Senate during the last session, and is now nearly 
ready for publication. In preparing this map I availed myself of all 
other explorations and surveys within the limits comprised by it, (in- 



46 

eluding thus some late unpublished maps kindly furnished from the 
Interior Department,) an acknowledgment of all of which is made 
thereon. It was necessary to indicate on this map a considerable por- 
tion of the country not examined by me in order to give it the greatest 
practical value, and to show the, relation of the parts I have ex- 
plored to those surrounding them. My design was to make the map 
a complete representation of all the region occupied by the Dakotas, 
and the best routes by which to approach and traverse it, and along 
which to conduct military operations to the best advantage ; in other 
words, to make it a " military map of Nebraska and Dakota/' which 
is the title I have given it. It is on a scale of 1 to 1,200,000, and 
embraces all the country from the 94th to the 106th meridian, be- 
tween the 38th and 50th parallels. In its northeast corner is the Lake 
of the Woods, in the southeast Fort Leavenworth, in the southwest 
Pike's Peak, and in the northwest the junction of Milk river with the 
Missouri. A number of rivers are put down on this map which have 
never yet been explored, except at their mouths ; these are the Knife 
river. Heart river. Cannon Ball river^ and Moreau river. As the ex- 
peditions under my command have gone almost around the section 
through which they flow, and determined with a great degree of 
certainty that it is an open prairie, and have gained some knowledge 
of their lengths and directions from the Indians, they are probably 
represented with a considerable degree of exactness. 

On the small map accompanying this report the southern branches 
of the Yellowstone river have also been represented with an approxi- 
mation to correctness, by using information furnished by the expedi- 
tions of Captains Lewis and Clark, and Captain Bonneville^ and also 
from sketches, &c., obtained by me from traders and trappers. This 
section of country, however, has much practical importance in rela- 
tion to routes through it by which to reach Utah from the navigable 
parts of the Missouri and Yellowstone, and deserves a thorough explo- 
ration. This examination I have always had a great desire to make, 
and in my previous expeditions have taken much pains to ascertain 
the best means of conducting it. In this I have been fortunate in 
meeting with Mr. James Bridger, Mr. Alexander Culbertson^ Mr. 
Robert Campbell, and others well acquainted with the character of 
the country from personal experience, and have the assurance of the 
services of Mr. Bridger if the exploration should be ordered. 

On account of the great distance of the region to be examined from 
the settlements it. is necessary to provide the expedition with the 
means for remaining two summers, the intervening winter to be passed 
at seme suitable point on the Yellowstone or Big Horn rivers. It 
would be difficult for an expedition to do more than go anfl. return in 
the same season, so that then little or no time would be allowed to 
explore. The country is principally occupied by the Crow Indians, 
and, as I know them to be friendly, I think a military escort can be 
dispensed with, which is a material consideration under the present 
excessive requirements of the military service. The method I propose 
instead is^ to go well provided with goods and presents by which to 
purchase of the Indians permission to pass through the country and to 
employ them as guides. In this way much expense can be prevented, 



47 

and, with prudent management, danger to the expedition can be 
avoided ; besides, valuable information will be gained from the Indians 
which would be withheld if we entered their country in a hostile 
attitude. 

The expedition should be completely organized and equipped for the 
field by the Ist of May, 1859, and remain in the field vmtil the 1st of 
December, 1860, nineteen months. 

There should be thirty men, at $30 per month, and eight assistants, as 
topographers, collectors, guides &c., at $125 per month. This would 
require $38, 000. Their provisions would cost about $7, 000. Animals 
and outfit $10, 000. Indian goods $4, 000. Contingencies $3, 000. To- 
tal $G0, 000. Of this amount about $35, 000 would be required the first 
year. The bulk of the stores and goods required should be contracted 
for, to be delivered at Fort Laramie or the Platte Bridge. 

The expedition itself should proceed by the Missouri river to Fort 
Pierre, where the necessary animals for a pack train should be assem- 
bled. At this point we should meet with some of the principal men 
of the Dakotas, and overtures should be made to secure their assent to 
our proceeding westw^ard up the Shyenne and its North Fork, and 
thence to the source of Powder river, thus exploring a new route. 
Should this consent be withheld, and it should not be considered safe 
to proceed without it, the party could take the route by way of White 
river to Fort Laramie and thence to the source of Powder river. 
The exploration should then be conducted along Powder river to its 
mouth, thence up the Yellowstone to the mouth of Tongue river, up 
which stream a detachment should be sent to its source. The remain- 
der of the party should ascend the Yellowstone to the mouth of Big 
Horn river, and up this latter stream to the point where it leaves the 
mountains, where it should be joined by the detachment which ex- 
plored Tongue river. 

The approach of winter might require the party to pass that season 
in this neighborhood, or, if time sufficed, the expedition might ascend 
the Big Horn river to Wind river, where a very favorable wintering 
place could be found. Either of these places would be sufficiently 
convenient to the supplies on the Platte. Under circumstances not 
foreseen it might be best for the expedition to Avinter near Fort 
Laramie. 

The next season should be spent in examining the mountain region 
about the sources of the Yellowstone and Missouri, to ascertain the 
character of the routes leading south and west from the navigable 
parts of these rivers. On returning, one portion should descend the 
Missouri, the other the Yellowstone, to their junction, where a Macinac 
boat should be in readiness, by which all could proceed to the settle- 
ments. 

These explorations would determine the practicability of all the 
routes marked on the accompanying map as deserving examination, and 
would require much activity on the part of those conducting them. 
Pack trains should alone be used, as wagons greatly retard the opera- 
tions of a party and vastly increase the difficulty of defending it against 
attack. The abundance of game in mucli of this region would render 



48 

it unnecessary to provide the usual quantity of bread and bacon, which 
always make the bulk of the provisions required. 

The party must be well prepared for defence against war parties, 
and it would be desirable to arm each man with a revolver, and about 
three-fourths of them, in addition, should have a double-barrelled gun, 
one rifled, the other smooth. This is a most effective gun either for 
hunting or fighting. 

Copies of my instructions from the Hon. John B. Floyd, Secretary 
of War, dated May 6, 1857, and from Brevet Brigadier General W. S. 
Harney, dated June 3. 1856, are transmitted herewith. 
Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

G. K. WARREN, 
Lieutenant Topograjykical Engineers. 
Captain A. A. Humphreys, 

Corps of Topographical Engineers, 

In charge Office Explorations and. Surveys. 



War Department, 

Washington, May 6, 1857. 

Sir: Under the appropriation " for surveys for military defences, 
geographical explorations, and reconnaissances for military purposes," 
you will organize an expedition to ascertain the best route for con- 
tinuing the military road between Fort Snelling and the mouth of the 
Big Sioux to Fort Laramie and the South Pass, by way of the Loup 
Fork of the Platte ; to make also such explorations in the Black Hills, 
about the sources of the Sheyenne and Little Missouri rivers, as the 
time and means will permit ; and to examine the Niobrara or I'Eau 
qui Court river, upon your return route, for the purpose of ascertain- 
ing its character and resources and the practicability of locating a 
road along it, leading from the Missouri river to the South Pass, or 
from Fort Randall to Fort Laramie. 

The sum of twenty-five thousand dollars is set apart from the ap- 
propriation to defray the expenses of the expedition, which amount 
your expenditures must not exceed. 

The commanding general of the Department of the West will be 
directed to detail an escort of thirty enlisted men of the infantry, 
under the command of a second lieutenant, who will report to you 
for duty. 

Transportation for the provision and equipage of the escort, their 
subsistence, and their necessary ammunition, will be furnished, 
respectively ^by the Quartermaster's, Commissary, and Ordnance 
Departments. 

tjpon the proper requisitions, officers of the Quartermaster's and 
Commissary Departments at the military posts near the routes pur- 
sued by the expedition w illfurnish, as far as practicable, all neces- 
sary supplies for it, which, when required for the civil employes, shall 
be paid for at cost prices at the places of delivery, from the appropri- 
ation for the survey. 



49 

Twenty Colt's revolvers, of the navy pattern, with belts, holsters, 
and the necessary ammunition, will be furnished by the Ordnance 
Department ; those lost or damaged being paid for out of the appro- 
priation for the survey. 

All other arms and ammunition for the civil employes (guides, 
hunters, herders, &c.) of the expedition will be paid for from this 
same appropriation. 

You are authorized to employ as assistants — 

A topographer, at a salary not to exceed $130 per month. 

One assistant topographer, at a salary not to exceed 100 '• 
An assistant astronomer, at a salary not to exceed... 125 " 
A physician and geologist, at a salary not to exceed 125 " 
An assistant physician and geologist, at a salary not 

to exceed ." .' 100 " 

A meteorologist, at a salary not to exceed fJO "^ 

And to pay their actual travelling expenses to and from the field of 
operations. 

You will procure your employes equipment, supplies, &c., at those 
points which appear to insure the most economical and effective organi- 
zation for your party, and prepare to take the field at the earliest 
possible moment. While in the field attention will be given to ascer- 
taining everything relating to the agricultural and mineralogical 
resources of the country, its climatology, its topographical features, 
and the facilities or obstacles which these latter offer to the construc- 
tion of rail or common roads. 

You will communicate with the department through the office of 
Explorations and Surveys, in charge of Capt. A. A. Humphreys, 
Corps Topographical Engineers ; and to this office you will make the 
reports and returns required by regulations of an officer of engineers 
in charge of a work or operation, and such other reports, transmitted 
as often as the means of communication will allow, as will keep the 
department apprised of all your movements, and the progress of the 
expedition under your charge. 

On the completion of the field duty, you will return, with your as- 
sistants, to Washington, and there prepare the maps and reports 
necessary to a full exposition of the results of the expedition. 
Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

JOHN B. FLOYD, 

Secretwy of War 
Lieut. Gr. K. Warren, 

Oor'ps Topographiccd Engineers. 



SPECIAL ORDERS No. 26. 

Headquarters Sioux Expedition, 
Camp near old Fort Lookout, Missouri River, June 3, 185H 

I. As it is important to obtain reliable information of the Missouri 
river, from Fort Pierre to some point above the mouth of the Yellow- 
stone, near which Governor Stevens' route strikes it, Sec i^a Lieu- 
tenant Gouverneur K. Warren, Topographical Engineers, ia assigned 
4 n 



50 

to this duty, and will proceed with his party by the steamer St. Mary's' 
to the point above indicated. 

On his return, Lieutenant Warren will procure a sufficient number 
of Mackinac boats, for the transportation of his party, stores, &c., to 
enable him to effect a thorough examination of this part of the river. 

II. The commanding officer of the 2d infantry will select an efficient 
party from his regiment, consisting of two non-commissioned officers 
and fifteen men, to report to Lieutenant Warren as his escort. They 
will be furnished with three months' provisions, equipage, &c. 

III. The assistant quartermaster at Fort Pierre will furnish the 
necessary transportation, and such supplies as Lieutenant Warren 
may be entitled to from his department, for the proper execution of 
these instructions. 

By order of Brevet Brigadier General Harney. 

A. PLEASONTON, 
Coptain 2d Dragoons, Acting Assistant Adjutant General 



REPORT. 

CHAPTER I. 
Routes explored, and main incidents affecting their extent and dw^atic/z. 

In presenting the following report of explorations in Nebraska, 
made by me in the year 1857, I shall include also my previous recon- 
naissances in that Territory in the years 1855-56, while attached to 
the staff of Brevet Brigadier General W. S. Harney, commanding 
the Sioux expedition. As, at this time, a complete narrative of these 
cannot be made, I shall only mention the routes pursued and the 
nature of the examination, and then give what I consider the most 
prominent results. 

A report of the explorations made in 1855, and map of the routas 
pursued by the bioux expedition, have already been published by the 
United States Senate in a small document called "Explorations in 
the Dacotah Country." During that year routes were examined from 
Fort Pierre to Fort Kearney ; from Fort Kearney to Fort Laramie, 
along the Platte river; from Fort Laramie to Fort Pierre ; and from 
Fort Pierre to the mouth of the Big Sioux river. 

In 1856 I started from St. Louis for Fort Pierre, in the middle of 
April, accompanied by my assistants, Messrs. W. H. Hutton, J. H. 
Snowden, and F. V, Hayden, on board Captain Throckmorton's steam- 
boat Genoa. During our passage up the Missouri we made a careful 
sketch of. the river above the southern boundary of Nebraska by 
means of compass courses, and distances estimated from the rate of 
travel of the steamboat, and by astronomical observations for latitude. 
The elevated position of the pilot-house of the steamboat, which the 
politeness of the captain allowed us to occupy, afi'orded advantages 
for gaining a knowledge of the river, the extent of the sand bars, and 



51 

the size and quantity of timber on the banks, the nature of the bottom 
lands as regards marshes, &c., not equalled by those of any other 
means of recmnaissance, and the topographer at the same time could 
avail himself of the extensive and accurate knowledge of the pilot. 
Our observations, by means of forward and back sights, showed us that 
the effects of local attraction on the compass by the iron on the boat 
were not important, and the cbecks on the estimated distances, 
afforded by the results of observations for latitude, proved that these 
estimates were very accurately made by Messrs. Hutton and Snowden, 
who, by turn>s, prepared the sketch of the river. 

As far up as the mouth of James river our advance had been quite 
rapid, the river being at a good stage ; but a short distance above 
that point we encountered a sudden and heavy freshet in the river, 
(produced by rains,) with a current so rapid that our boat was unable 
to advance against it. From this cause we remained tied up to the 
bank a whole day. As soon as the river began to fall, the velocity 
abated, and we proceeded on the voyage. So sudden, however, was 
the subsidence of the flood that, in five days after we had escaped the 
embargo of too much water, we found ourselves aground and drawing 
several inches more water than there was anywhere on the bar^ which 
stretched across the river. This occuired to us near the first Cedar 
island. 

Under these circumstances, being anxious to reach Fort Pierre as 
soon as possible, as was also Captain Frost, (who was sutler at the 
fort, and whose goods were the principal freight of the boat,) we 
determined to leave the boat and proceed on foot to the dragoon camp, 
at the mouth of American Crow river, about 80 miles distant. Our 
means of transportation were two horses, the property of Colonel Lee, 
2d infantry, and Lieutenant Colonel Andrews, of the 6th infantry, 
which carried our blankets and provisions, and we were accompanied 
by a Mr. Moore and two men. On arriving opposite to the dragoon 
camp on the evening of the third day's travel, we were informed that 
there was no boat to bring us across. We stayed on the bank of the 
river that night, and the next morning renewed our signals to com- 
municate with the camp. These, however, failed to attract attention 
to us, and our provisions being short we were obliged, though much 
wearied by our journey on foot_, (there having been a cold rain one 
day and night,) to attempt to reach Fort Pierre, 80 miles distant. 
This we accomplished in three days, and arrived there on the 20th ot 
May, completely exhausted, having subsisted mainly on the birds 
killed with our shot guns. The journey gave me an opportunity of 
viewing the country and its appearances a few miles back from the 
Missouri. 

The steamboat having landed a portion of her freight at the place 
where we left her, reached Fort Pierre three days after us. On my 
arrival all the tribes of the Dakotas west of the Missouri, except the 
Sichangus and Ogalalas, were assembled in council, and a treaty of 
peace was made Avith them by General Harney, which terminated the 
Sioux war. 

Instructions were now given me by General Harney to proceed with 
my party in the American Fur Company's boat to the mouth of the 
Yellowstone, and as far above as she should ascend, and to return by 



52 

means of a Mackinac boat, and carefully examine all points on the 
river to determine their suitahility as sites for military posts, and to 
obtain such other information as we should be able with regard to 
the country. An escort of fifteen men and two non-commissioned 
officers of the 2d infantry were placed under my command. We left 
Fort Pierre in the American Fur Company's boat " St. Mary," Cap- 
tain Labarge, on the 28th of June, and reached Fort Union on the 
10th of July.' The boat landed most of her stores, and then proceeded 
to a point about 60 miles above the mouth of the Yellowstone and 
discharged the balance. 

While ascending the river, tlie sketch of it was taken above Fort 
Pierre, as it had been below, by Messrs. Hutton and Snowden, and 
observations were made by me for latitude. At Fort Union a 16-inch 
transit was set up, and observations taken during a whole lunation; 
but owing to the cloudy condition of the nights during the time, and 
the shortness of the nights themselves, only two sets of observations 
were obtained on the moon and stars. The result of these gave the 
longitude of tViat post 101° 02', with a limit of error of about 10'. 

While at Fort Union we saw the Assinniboin Indians. 

Having ascertained that a Mackinac boat could not be prepared for 
me before the 1st of September, I determined to make an examination 
of the Yellowstone during the month of August; and in carrying this 
out I was fortunate in being able to purchase the means of land trans- 
portation from Sir St. George Gore, who was returning from an ex- 
ten ;ive hunting excursion on the waters of the Yellowstone and its 
br inches. We left the mouth of the Yellowstone July 25, and, 
trnvelling leisurely up the left bank, reached a point one hundred 
miles from its mouth, beyond which it was impossible to advance with 
wagons along the valley of the Yellowstone without crossing to the 
opposite banks. Here we made a camp with the main body, and with 
a party of seven I proceeded, with pack animals, over a very difficult 
country (known as the Bad Lands of the Yellowstone) to the mouth of 
Powder river, thirty miles further. 

This was the furthest point up the Yellowstone that I intended to 
proceed, and I was anxious to reach it and to fix its position, as being 
a good and certain point with which any future reconnaissance could 
connect. From the appearance of Powder river at the mouth, no 
one would suppose the stream to be of the length it really is, and I 
was not surprised at Captain Clarke not having done so on his 
voyage down the Yellowstone in 1806. On returning to our wagon 
camp, we all travelled a short distance down the Yellowstone to a 
convenient point, where we made a boat eighteen feet long and five 
feet wide, by stretching the skins of three buffalo bulls over a frame 
made of small cotton-wood and willow trees. With this vessel a 
small party navigated the Yellowstone to its mouth, carefully map- 
ping the islands and bends of the river. The wagons and land party 
returned to the Missouri by travelling over nearly the route by which 
they ascended. 

We enjoyed the greatest abundance of large game of all kinds 
while on the Yellowstone river. 

On reaching Fort Union again we found our boat nearly ready, 



5H 

and, all our arrangements being completed, we left that place on the 
Ist of September. A small party conducted the animals along the 
snore oa our journey down the Missouri, generally camping each 
nigiit witli the boat party. Halts of two or three days were made at 
all interesting localities, and map sketches were made several miles 
up all the streams flowing into the Missouri ; and the map of the Mis- 
souri was also verified. These sketches, on a scale of one and a half 
inch to a mile, are on file and convenient for reference in this office. 

Thermometer and barometer observations were made throughout the 
period of the examinations of the year 1856. Dr. Hayden was indefat- 
igable in his efforts to develop the geology of the region traversed, 
and some of the results have already been published, by permission of 
the War Department, in the Proceedings of the Academy of Natural 
Sciences in Philadelphia. A very extensive collection was also made 
in zoology. 

We reached Fort Pierre on our return on the 2d of October, at 
which place our animals were sold, and most of the soldiers returned 
to their respective companies. A few accompanied us as far as the 
mouth of the James river. We reached Sioux City on November 15, 
and fortunately ibiind a steamboat there, by means of which we pro- 
ceeded with our effects to St. Louis, and thence by railroad to Wash- 
ington. The cost of this expedition to the United States was about 
$10,000. 

No special report has yet been made by me on the results of this 
year's exploration. The maps were about completed, and the mate- 
rial in the process of elaboration, when I was assigned to the command 
of another exploration by the War Department, a brief account of 
which I shall now proceed to give. 

I received my instructions from the Hon. John B. Floyd, Secretary 
of War, May 7, 1857, the general terms of which were to make the 
necessary examinations to determine the best route for continuing the 
military road between Mendota and the Big Sioux westward to Fort 
Laramie and the South Pass. Thence to proceed northward and 
make such examinations on the Black Hills as my time and means 
would permit, and to return by the valley of the Niobrara, and make 
a careful examination thereof. I was assisted in the examination by 
Messrs. J. H. Snowden and P. M. Engel, as topographers ; Dr. F. 
V. Hayden, as geologist ; W. P. C. (Jarrington, as meteorologist ; 
Dr. S. Moffett, as surgeon ; and Lieut. Jas. McMillan, commanding 
the escort. 

The escort, numbering twenty-seven men and three non-commis- 
sioned officers, under Lieut. McMillan, all of the 2d infantry, was 
directed to meet me at Sioux City, transportation for it being fur- 
nished by the quartermaster's department. Transportation for the 
remainder of the party was assembled at Omaha City as soon as pos- 
sible ; and on the 27th of June, under the charge of Mr, Snowden, 
set out for the rendezvous at the mouth of Loup Fork. 

Accompanied by Mr. Engel, I then proceeded to Sioux City, where 
we found the escort had been awaiting us several days on the Big 
Sioux river. Through some misunderstand'lng there were no team- 
sters i'urnished for the wagons of the escort ; and the mules, from a 



54 

disease of the hoof, and the wagons, and especially the harness, from 
long use, were of very inferior quality. It occupied me six days in 
getting the train in travelling condition, which was only done by 
abandoning one wagon and a large supply of stores for the escort. 
During this time a rumor* reached there of a fight having taken place 
between the soldiers and the Shyennes at Ash Hollow, in which a 
hnndred of the former were killed. Twelve of the soldiers of the 
escort, tempted by the high prices of labor in this vicinity, and tired 
of the toils and privations of campaigning, deserted as we were about 
to set out, and some white thieves who infested the neighborhood of 
Sioux City carried off two of my best horses. These losses occurring 
in a civilized community, where we supposed ourselves among friends, 
were quite annojing, and gave rather unpleasant forebodings of what 
might occur to us when we should come among our enemies, the 
Indians. 

We set out from Sioux City July 6, and, taking a direct course, joined 
the other party on the Loup Fork, being 11 days in going 110 miles. 
The route was heavy from frequent rains, all the ravines being filled 
with water, and the most insignificant rivulet requiring preparation, 
on account of the soft nature of the soil, before a wagon could cross it. 
We had to make one bridge (over Middle creek) about 30 eet long, 
and construct a raft with which to cross the Elk Horn. 

The united party now set out on their journey westward on the Loup 
Fork, meeting with no serious difficulties on the route (except the 
quicksands in crossing the main north branch) till we came to within 
50 miles of the source of the stream. Here the river became shut up 
in a gorge impassable for wagons, and we were forced out among the 
difficult sand hills which border the bluffs and which extend north to 
the Niobrara and south nearly to the Platte. They also extend much 
further east, but they occasioned us no diflSculties till we were forced 
to leave the bank of the stream. 

We finally came to the source of the Loup Fork, and from this point 
endeavored to proceed as directly as possible north to the Niobrara, 
for we were somewhat apprehensive of losing everything, for want of 
water, by endeavoring to push our way westward through the Sand 
Hills. These hills, however, were so impracticable for wagons that 
we were forced much more to the west than we desired, and one day 
we were unable to find water to camp by. There are numerous lakes 
in this Sand Hill country, but many of them are too much impregnated 
with salts to be wholesome. Some of these latter our animals drank 
out of without injury. On reaching the longitude of 102° 80' we had 
the good fortune to find an open stretch of country with a large well 
marked lodge trail leading between the Platte and Niobrara, which, 
in one day's travel northward, brought us to the Niobrara. We now 
proceeded rapidly over an easy route to Fort Laramie. 

During the journey there had been considerable sickness in the 
camp from fevers, and one of the men was so near the point of death 
that a halt of several days was made for his benefit. Dr. Moffett also 
became so ill as to require a delay of one or two days. These neces- 



* This rumor was without foundation, as it afterwards appeared. 



55 

«ary stoppages, the difficulties of the route, rainy weather, together 
with my being obliged to leave so much of our provisions behind at 
Sioux City, reduced our supplies to a small amount, and for nearly 
two weeks we were without sugar or coffee. We had also been very 
much disappointed in the amount ot game ; and though the country 
gave evidence of having recently been occupied by large herds of 
buffalo, only a few bulls were seen. During the early part of the 
journey mosquitoes were abundant, and allowed our animals no rest at 
night, and immense numbers of flies attacked them by day. These 
insects, combined, exhausted and worried the animals more than the 
labor they performed, and the lives of one or two were saved only by 
covering them with grease and tar to keep the flies and mosquitoes 
away. 

At Fort Laramie we entirely refitted the party, which took us a 
long time, on account of everything being required for the Utah 
expedition. It gives me great pleasure to state that the commanding 
officer. Colonel Hoffman, and the acting quartermaster, Lieutenant 
Higgins, gave me all the facilities at their command. Owing to the 
great number of animals that graze in the neighborhood the grass 
was nearly eaten off, and our animals recruited very little during our 
stay there. While there I succeeded in getting several sets of obser- 
vations for moon culminations, which determined the longitude to be 
104° 30,' with a limit of error of about 4'. Dr. Hayden and Mr. Engel 
also made an excursion to Laramie peak, which they ascended. 

The party, on leaving Fort Laramie, was divided into two parts, 
as, owing to the lateness of the season, it was impossible to accom- 
plish all the objects of the expedition by keeping together. Tliough 
in doing this I subjected each portion to the possibility of being 
defeated by the Indians, I deemed the case to justify the risk. The 
wagons were, half of them, turned in to the quartermaster, and the 
remainder, with the escort under Lieutenant McMillan, were to pro- 
ceed down the Niobrara, and await me in longitude 101° 30'. Mr. J. 
H. Snowden went with this party to make the topographical recon- 
naissances; Dr. Moffett also accompanied it. My own party consisted 
of Dr. Hayden, Mr. Carrington, and Mr. Engel, and we had with us 
17 men as packers, &c., and Mr. Morin as a guide and interpreter. 
•Our supplies were packed on mules. 

Setting out from Fort Laramie on the 4th of September, we pro- 
ceeded direct for the Black Hills, via Raw Hide butte. Old Woman 
creek, the south fork of the Shyenne, and Beaver creek ; up a branch 
of this last we entered the Black Hills. We continued north to the 
vicinity of the Inyan Kara, (or the peak which makes the mountain^) 
a remarkable high basaltic peak, one of the highest of these mount- 
ains, and so far to the north that we had a full view of the prairie 
beyond. 

Here we were met by a very large force of the Dakotas, who made 
such earnest remonstrances and threats against our proceeding into 
their country that 1 did not think it prudent for us, as a scientific 
expedition, to venture further in this direction. Some of them were 
for attacking us immediately, as their numbers would have insured 
success ; but the lesson taught them by General Harney, in 1855, 



56 

made them fear they would meet with retribution, and this I endeav- 
ored to impress upon them. We were at the time almost in sight of 
the place where these Indiana had plundered Sir George Gore in 1856,. 
for endeavoring to proceed through their country, and one of them 
was actually mounted on one of his best horses taken at that time. 
Sir George Gore's party was only about half as numerous as mine; 
but there were a number of my party which I had picked up at Fort 
Laramie on whom we placed very little reliance. 

The grounds of their objections to our traversing this region were 
very sensible, and of sufficient weight, I think, to have justified them 
in their own minds in resisting ; and as these are still in force for the 
prevention of the passage of any other party of whites not large 
enough to resist successfully, they are of sufficient importance to be 
repeated here. In the first place, they were encamped near large herds 
of buffalo, whose hair not being sufficiently grown to make robes, the 
Indians were^, it may be said, actually herding the animals. No one 
was permitted to kill any in the large bands for fear of stampeding 
the others, and only such were killed as straggled away from the 
main herds. Thus the whole range of the buffalo was stopped so that 
they could not proceed south, which was the point to which they were 
travelling. The intention of the Indians was to retain the buffalo in 
their neighborhood till their skins would answer for robes, then to 
kill the animals by surrounding one band at a time and completely 
destroying each member of it. In this way no alarm is communi- 
cated to the neighboring bands, which often remain quiet almost in 
sight of the scene of slaughter. 

For us to have continued on then would have been an act for which 
certain death would have been inflicted on a like number of their own 
tribe had they done it; for we might have deflected the whole range of 
the bufialo fifty or one hundred miles to the west, and prevented the 
Indians from laying in their winter stock of provisions and skins, on 
which their comfort if not even their lives depended. Their feelings 
towards us, under the circumstances, were not unlike what we should 
feel towards a person who should insist upon setting fire to our barns. 
The most violent of them were for immediate resistance, when I told 
them of my intentions ; and those who were most friendly, and in 
greatest fear of the power of the United States, begged that I would 
''take pity" on them and not proceed. I felt that, aside from its 
being an unnecessary risk to subject my party and the interests of the 
expedition to, it was almost cruelty to the Indians to drive them to 
commit any desperate act which would call for chastisement from the 
government. 

But this was not the only reason they urged against our proceed- 
ing. They said that the treaty made with General Havney gave to 
the whites the privilege of travelling on the Platte and along White 
river, between Fort Pierre and Laramie, and to make roads there, 
and to travel up and down the ]\l^g80uri in boats ; but that it guaran- 
tied to them that no white people should travel elsewhere in their 
country, and thus frighten away the buffalo by their care^less manner 
of hunting them. And finally, that my party was there examining 
the country to ascertain if it was of value to the whites, and to di&- 



57 

cover roads through it, and places for military posts; and that having 
already given up all the country to the whites that they could spare, 
these Black Hills must he left wholly to themselves. Moreover, if 
none of these things should occur, our passing through their country 
would give us a knowledge of its character and the proper way to 
traverse it in the event of another war between themselves and the 
troops. I was necessarily compelled to admit to myself the truth and 
force of these objections. 

The Indians whom I first met were the Minikanyes, to the number 
of forty lodges, near whom, as they were very friendly, we encamped.* 
They were soon joined by the warriors of a large camp of Unkpapas 
and Sihasapas, and our position, which was sufficiently unpleasant in 
the presence of such a numerous party of half-avowed enemies, was 
rendered doubJy so by a storm of sleet and snow, which lasted two 
days and nights, and against which we had but little protection. 

A young Indian, who had accompanied us from Fort Laramie, con- 
sidered the danger to us so imminent that he forsook our camp and 
joined his friends, the Minikanyes. 

Under these embarrassing circumstances my associates evinced the 
most resolute bravery and determination to abide the result like true 
men. 

I consented to wait three days without advancing, in order to meet 
their great warrior, Bear's Rib, appointed first chief by General 
Harney's treaty, merely changing our position to one offering 
greater facilities for defence. At the expiration of the time, Bear's 
Rib not making his appearance, we broke up camp, and, travelling 
back on our route about forty miles, struck ofi" to the eastward, through 
the southern part of these mountains. The point where we turned 
back is well marked by the Inyan Kara peak, whose position was fixed 
by us. 

After we had proceeded two days on our journey eastward, we were 
overtaken by Bear's Rib and one other Indian who accompanied him. 
He reiterated all that had been said by the other chiefs, and added 
that he could do nothing to prevent our being destroyed if we 
attempted to proceed further. I then told him that I believed he 
was our friend, but that if he could do nothing for us, he bad better 
return to his people, and leave us to take care of ourselves, as I was 
determined to proceed as far as Bear butte. After a whole day spent 
in deliberation, he concluded to accompany us a part of the way, and 
he said he would then return to his people and use his influence to 
have us not molested. In return for this, he wished me to say to the 
President and to the white people that they could not be allowed to 
come into that country. That if the presents sent were to purchase 
such a right, they did not want them. All they asked of the white 
people was, to be lelt to themselves and let alone. That if the presents 
were sent to induce them not to go to war with the Crows and their 
other enemies, they did not wish them. War with them was not only 
a necessity but a pastime. He said General Harney had told them 

* I am much indebted to the influence jf Major TwisB, the Indian agent near Fort 
Laramie, for his efforts to give the Dakotas a favorable opinion of my expedition, and to 
secure \is a friendly reception. 



58 

not to go to war, and yet he was all the time goiag to war himself. 
(Bear's Kib knew that when General Harney left the Sioux country 
he had gone to the war in Florida^ and was at the time in command 
of the army sent against the Mormons.) He said, moreover, that the 
annuities scarcely paid for going after them; and that if they were 
not distributed to them while they were on their visit to the trading 
posts, on the Missouri, to dispose of their robes, they did not want 
them. 

(It is a fact, that for several years, owing to this cause, these In- 
dians have not come in for their goods at all.) 

He said that he heard that the Ihanktonwans were going to sell their 
lands to the whites. If they did so, he wished them informed that 
they could not come on his people's lands. They must stay with 
the whites. Every day the Ihanktonwans were coming there, but 
were always turned back. 

Whatever may have been Bear's Eib's actions after leaving us, it 
is certain we saw no more Indians in the Black Hills. We completed 
our reconnaissance along the eastern portion of these mountains as far 
as Bear peak, which forms another convenient and accurate point with 
which any future reconnaissance may connect with our own. We also 
visited the north fork of the Shyenne, in this vicinity. On our return 
we took a southeast direction, striking the south fork of the Shyenne 
at the mouth of Sage creek. We then proceeded up the south fork to 
French creek; thence southeast, through the Bad Lands, to White 
river ; thence along the sources of White Clay creek and Porcupine 
creek ; and thence to the Niobrara, striking it in longitude 102° 03'. 

We found the party under Lieutenant McMillan about forty miles 
below where we struck the river, and eighty miles below where we 
had first reached it on our journey westward in August. This inter- 
vening distance had been carefully mapped by Mr. Snowden, and he 
had made several excursions at diflterent places to examine the country, 
as I had directed. Lieutenant McMillan's march down the river thus 
far had not been made without much wordy opposition from the Brule 
Dakotas, much of the same kind as that I have related as having 
been said to me in the Black Hills. On finding that he was deter- 
mined to proceed, the chief, Little Thunder, sent four of his principal 
men to accompany them, which they did for some days. At a subse- 
quent time, twenty-two warriors charged into the camp, thinking the 
party was a trading expedition. Their insolence was checked by 
Lieutenant McMillan's threatening to fire on them ; whereupon they 
entered their usual protest against the party's proceeding further, 
and the next day all withdrew. The last twenty miles of Lieutenant 
McMillan's route was through difficult sand hills bordering the 
river, the stream itself being so shut in by high precipitous ridges 
that he was unable to travel along it. 

We now found the route exceedingly laborious for wagons on 
account of the sand hills, which continue to the mouth of Rapid creek. 
The character of the immediate valley of the Niobrara precluded the 
wagons from travelling along it ; so, while Mr. Snowden mapped the 
route of the train, Mr. Engel travelled along the river, sometimes on 
one side and sometimes on the other, and made a map of it. Even he. 



59 

though riding a mule, found it difficult to keep up in this way with 
the wagons, which slowly wound their way through and over the 
sand hills. Our camps at night were here always on the main river. 
After passing the Rapid creek the sand hills gave us no longer any 
trouble, (except for about twenty miles on the point between the 
Niobrara and Keya Paha,) but the ravines and precipices still pre- 
vented the wagons from travelling within from five to eight miles of 
the Niobrara, and here Mr. Engel continued the sketch as before. 
Dr. Hayden also travelled along the immediate banks of the river, 
examining the character of the rocks and collecting fossils. 

On reaching the mouth of the Keya Paha, the main party, with the 
wagons, proceeded direct to Fort Randall, and a separate party, under 
Mr. Engel, travelled down the Niobrara to its mouth, completing the 
examination of that stream. It was my intention for Dr. Hayden to 
accompany him, but on arriving at the place of separation we found 
the same geological ibrmation and characteristics as we knew to exist 
at the mouth ; and as the intervening distance was only sixty miles, 
he did not deem it necessa-y to go over it. 

Fort Randall was reached on the 1st of November, and the escort 
was returned to the regiment. We were most hospitably received by 
Major Day, commanding the post, and the other officers of the 2d 
infantry, and I take this occasion to acknowledge my indebtedness to 
this regiment for the aid and protection they have afforded me in all 
my explorations. 

Two sets of observations for moon culminations were obtained here, 
but cloudy weather prevented more. The longitude, as calculated 
from them, is 98° 34', with a probable limit of error of about 8'. 

The party set out from Fort Randall on the 7th of November, and 
surveyed the route to Sioux City, which was reached on the 16th. 
The season being far advanced, no steamboat was expected, and the 
river was full of floating ice. The weather, as we travelled on 
towards Fort Leavenworth, became very severe, and the river became 
frozen over as far down as St. Joseph's. During this time we made 
rapid progress, but a mild spell of weather coming on made the road 
so heavy that with the greatest exertion we hardly accomplished ten 
miles a day. During this time the health of the party suffered severely 
from influenza. We reached Fort Leavenworth on the 4th of December, 
and were fortunate enough to meet there with a steamboat, by which 
we proceeded to St. Louis, and thence by railroad to Washington. 



CHAPTER IT. 

Physical geography of Nebraska ; character cf the soil and resources 

of the country. 

Though my personal examinations have nowhere extended west of 
the 106th meridian, there are certain points west of it to which I would 
direct attention. The positions of the Missouri and Yellowstone west 



60 

of this meridian and north of the 46th degree of north latitude have 
been well examined by Lewis and Clark and under Governor Stevens, 
and the valuable information they obtained is widely known. The 
section, however, between the 46th parallel in the north and the 43d 
in the south, the 106th meridian in the eist, and the dividing line 
betv/een the waters of the Pacific and the Atlantic in the west, is 
com[)aratively unknown, except fro n the accounts afforded by trapping 
parties. The information given of it on the map of Lewis vnd Clark 
is derived from this latter source ; as is also that on Colonel Bonne- 
ville's map, published with "Irving's" work on "Adventures in the 
Rockv Mountains," &c.; and these are our most authe.itic sources of 
info'.mafcion. These maps have been generally disregarded by subse- 
quent map-makers ; and previous to the map I compiled for the Pacific 
Railroad Office, there have been no mountains represented about the 
fiource of the Yellowstone. From inquiries I made of trappers in 
1855, I became convinced of the existence of these mountains, and 
represented them accordingly, endeavoring to combine the information 
on Lewis and Clark's map and Bonneville's map with that which I 
had procured from traders and trappers. In doing this, I represented 
the Big Horn mountains perhap? too far to the west, as they are per- 
fectly visible from the summit of the Inyan Kara peak, in the Black 
Hills. 

Leaving out of consideration for the present the smaller detached 
mountain masses, and beginning with the main range of the Rocky 
mountains, on the 49th parallel, we find their eastern base to have a 
direction nearly northwest and southeast, and the range crossing the 
Missouri at "The Gate of the Mountains." Continuing southeast, it 
crosses the Yellowstone near where Captain Clark reached that river 
in 1806, (latitude 46,) just south of which it forms high, snow-covered 
peaks. This line of mountains is broken through again by the Big Horn 
river, a id the mountains receive the name of Big Horn mountains. 
The southeast terminus of the Big Horn mountains sinks into the 
elevated table land prairie, and tae range perhaps reappears again as 
the Laramie mountains. (South of the latitude of Fort Laramie the 
line of the eastern front of the mountains is nearly north and south.) 

The Black Hills, whose geographical position we have determined, 
are the most eastern portion of what has heretofore been considered a 
part of the great mountain region west of the Mississippi ; and it ifs 
■worthy of note that, if a line be drawn from them to the Little Rocky 
mountains, on the 48th parallel, which are the most eastern portion 
in that latitude, this line will be parallel to the line of the main front 
of the mountains which I have already traced. Wl,at is still more 
significant is, that if a straight line be drawn from the mouth of the 
Yellowstone to the mouth of the Kansas river, it will also be parallel 
to the lines before mentioned, and will have about an equal portion 
of the Missouri on each side of it. 

The line of the east base of the main mountain mass is the highest, 
of course, of any portion of the plains, and at Raw Hide peak, near 
Fort Laramie, is about 5,500 feet elevation, as determined by the 
horizontally stratified tertiary deposits, though owing to great, denuda- 
tion the average height there of this line of the plains will not be so great 



61 

The same line, near the 49th parallel, has probably a somewhat less 
elevation. The lowest line of the plains is that along the Missouri, 
and its elevation, taken near Bijou Hills, (a point about on the per- 
pendicular to it from Fort Laramie,) is about 2,130 feet, which does 
not differ materially from its height at the mouth of the Yellowstone. 
The slope of all this part of the plains (being in a direction perpen- 
dicular to the lines of equal elevation) has therefore its line of greatest 
descent in a northeast direction, and north of the Niobrara ; this is the 
direction in which a majority of the rivers flow till they join with the 
Missouri or Yellowstone. To the south of the Niobrara the greatest 
slope of the plains is to the southeast, towards the Gulf of Mexico, and 
this is the direction pursued there by nearly all the rivers of the plains. 
Thus the Niobrara would seem, as it were, to run along a swell or 
ridge on the surface. The average slope of the plains from the Mis- 
souri to the mountains make nowhere an angle greater than one-half 
degree with the horizon. 

A remarkable feature in regard to this change of slope which occurs 
in the neighborhood of the course of the Niobrara is the shortness of 
its tributaries, the surface drainage seeming to be away from and not 
towards its banks. A result of this is the absence of the amphitheatre- 
like valley which rivers generally have, and which enable us to look 
down at the stream often many miles distant. Through the greater 
portion of the middle half of its course you have scarcely any indication 
of it as you approach, till within close proximity, and then you look 
down from the steep bluffs, and catch, at the distance of two hundred 
to five hundred yards, only here and there a glimpse of the river 
below, so much is it hidden by the precipitous bluffs which at the 
bends stand at the water-edge. So strongly was I impressed with the 
fact that the surface drainage could never have been directed along its 
course so as to have worn out this channel, that I think a portion of 
it must have originated in a fissure in the rocks which the waters 
have since enlarged and made more uniform in size, and which the 
soft nature of the rock would render easy of accomplishmeiu. It is 
worthy of remark, in this connexion, that the bed of the stream in 
longitude 102° is four hundred feet higher than that of the White 
river at the point nearest to this ; White river having there cut its 
way entirely through the tertiary formation, flows along tlie creta- 
ceous, while the bed of the Niobrara is in the miocene tertiary, the 
pliocene forming the bluffs. The bed of the Niobrara is also, in two- 
thirds of its upper course, from three hundred to five hundred feet 
above the bed of the Platte river at corresponding points at the south. 

In the section of the country through which the Niobrara flows the 
soil is very sandy, so that what rain or snow falls sinks under the 
surface, and none is lost by evaporation. This is gradually all poured 
into the stream by the springs in the ravines, and in this way the 
river is mainly supplied in seasons of low water, at which times it is 
one of the largest streams of Nebraska. 

The question of the slope of the plains is a subject to which I have 
given much attention, from its scientific as well as practical interest. 
Our barometric observations have enabled us, in some measure, to till 
up the gap between those of Governor Stevens on the north an.! 



62 

Captain Fremont's on the south, and thus give us the connected levels 
over a very large area. 

The ohservations upon the great tertiary formation have developed 
the fact, that since the close of the pliocene period the eastern base of 
the mountains, which is the western limit of this formation, has been 
elevated from 2,000 to 3,000 feet above the eastern, and this without 
there being anywhere visible signs of upheaval, such as inclination 
of the strata. The only direct evidence is in the immense denudation 
which the tertiary has undergone probably while this elevation was 
in progress, and which causes of denudation must have been gradu- 
ally extinguished, as there is, at the present time, no force at work 
sufficient to have affected them. The evidence goes to show that the 
elevation which lias taken place since the close of the pliocene period 
has been in Nebraska remarkably uniform, and along a line in a 
general direction northwest and southeast, and nearly coincident with 
the ranges of mountains previously upheaved. 

The Black Hills received their last violent upheaval at the same 
period as the Laramie mountains, that is, at the close of the creta- 
ceous. The geological evidence goes to show that the j)liocene and 
miocene tertiary, south of the Shyenne, are fresh water formations; 
yet there are no ridges now standing to mark the northern boundary 
to this basin. In the present relative position of the different parts 
of these plains, the elevation of the pliocene tertiary formation is now 
so great that much of the Black Hills and the cretaceous on the Shy- 
enne should have been covered with it. This might, however, have 
been the case, and since have all been denuded away. North of the 
Shyenne the cretaceous ridges are probably sufficiently high to have 
separated the tertiary beds south of it from the lignite tertiary to 
the north. But still it is necessary to suppose that this last elevation 
of the tertiary has been somewhat greater near the 4 2d parallel than 
to the north of it. 

A most interesting problem could be solved in regard to these 
changes of level, if a locality could be found where the lignite tertiary 
north of the Shyenne would be in contact with the pliocene or miocene 
beds to the south of it, as well as the more important one of the age 
of the first relative to the two latter. 

During the time of these changes since the formation of the pliocene 
tertiary, the soft sandy material of which it was composed has been 
crushed and separated by denuding forces, and an area of no less than 
20,000 square miles, called the Sand Hills, has been covered with 
barren sand, which, blown by the wind into high hills, renders this 
section not only barren, but in a measure impracticable for travel. 
The Niobrara river, lying on a most desirable line of communication, 
and direct in its general course, has 100 miles of its banks obstructed 
with these difficult hills, and the communication between this stream 
and the Platte greatly obstructed and in some places entirely cut off. 
The subject of routes and communications I shall hereafter take up in 
detail. 

For nearly all of the knowledge of the age of the geological for- 
mations of the portions of Nebraska developed by my explorations, 1 
am indebted to the services of Dr. F. V. Hayden and Mr. F. B. Meek 



63 

and Professor Joseph Leidy, whose papers, published in the Proceedings 
of the Academy of Natural Sciences, have already made known some 
of the principal discoveries and results due to their labors. Dr. 
Hayden was the only one of those mentioned who accompanied me in 
the field. 

In the paper by Dr. Hayden, accompanying the geological map, pub- 
lished in June, 1858, Dr. H. observes that " A much larger surface 
might have been colored on the map with a good degree of confidence, 
but I have preferred to confine myself, for the most part^ to the results 
of my own observations in the field." The northeast portion of the 
boundary of the tertiary formation between the White and Niobrara 
rivers is there placed too far west, according to my own observations in 
1855 and 1857. The line between this and the cretaceous is not west of 
a straight line between the mouth of the south fork of the White river • 
and the mouth of the Keya Paha. A small portion of tertiary should 
also be shown on the north side of the south fork of the Shyenne. The 
great lignite tertiary formation most probably extends almost to the 
base of the Big Horn mountains. 

It is of course impossible to give correctly the relative extent of 
certain of the formations on a map of this scale. The width of the 
upheaved sedimentary formations which encircle the igneous rocks of 
the Black Hills are much more developed on the western than on the 
eastern slopes, owing to their difference in dip — on the western being 
quite gentle, but steep on the other, causing them soon to disappear 
under the cretaceous rocks ; and this is one of the most important 
features in the configuration of these mountains. 

From what has been said it will be seen that the surface of Ne- 
braska presents two great sections — that of the plains, and that of the 
mountains. 

The plains in this latitude are composed of nearly horizontal strata 
of the tertiary and cretaceous formations, except in a small portion of 
the southeast corner, where the carboniferous is developed. Though the 
plains are much diversified by the effects of denuding agencies, and 
present in different portions striking characteristics, yet they are, as a 
whole, a great uniform surface gradually rising towards the mount- 
ains, at the base of which they attain an elevation varying between 
3,000 and 5,500 feet above the level of the sea. The plains have three 
distinct portions as determined by their geological formation : 1st, 
the pliocene and miocene tertiary : 2d, the cretaceous ; and 3d, the 
lignite tertiary. 

The first section extends from the southern boundary north, nearly 
continuous to the 44th parallel, and contains a large portion of the 
valleys of the Platte, Loup Fork, Niobrara, and White rivers. Here, 
except in the immediate valleys of the streams, which are composed 
of good soil, naturally irrigated by springs from the bluffs, or suscep- 
tible ot irrigation, much of the country is sandy and unfit for culti- 
vation. No valuable mineral or good building stone have been dis- 
covered in it. Here are to be found the Sand Hills, which occupy an 
area north ot the Platte of not less than 20,000 square miles. These 
hills on the north begin between the White and Niobrara rivers, and 
extend south probably beyond the Arkansas. Where we have visited 



64 

them, they vary in height from 10 to 200 feet, and in the western 
portion are ranged in ridges running east and west ; but in travelling 
you are frequently obliged to cross them, as the intermediate valleys, 
•which are also sand, are not continuous. About the sources of Loup 
Fork many of the lakes of water found in them are impregnated with 
salts and unfit to drink, and our sufierings in exploring them will 
always hold a prominent place in our memories. The present form 
of these hills is mainly if not entirely due to the wind. Where the 
grass protects the surface the sand does not drift ; but if this is re- 
moved, the wind whirls the sand in the air, and often excavates deep 
holes. I therefore look upon them as utterly impracticable for any 
line of railroad ; for should any attempt be made to grade the surface, 
which would be necessary, the wind would fill up the cuts with sand 
as with drifting snow. 

In this section is also to be found the Bad Lands, or Mauvaises-Terres, 
of White river, so celebrated for their vertebrate remains. The 
locality to which this name (Bad Lands) has been applied is in extent 
about one hundred and fifty miles long, in a direction northeast and 
southwest, and about sixty miles wide. The term Bad Lands was 
given to this section by the traders, on account of the difiiculty of 
getting a road through a portion of it. The extent of the geological 
formation to which these Bad Lands belong is very great, and, as the 
name is an improper one to be applied to the whole of it, I shall not 
use the term except in speaking of the portion occupied by it along 
the middle course of the White river. In this part of White river 
some as beautiful valleys are to be found as anywhere in the far 
west, though, like other parts, the majority of the country is barren. 
These Bad Lands of the White river country have frequently been 
spoken of as a vast grave or sepulchre, from the amount of bones found 
there; and this figure of speech has somewhat tended to give a gloomy 
idea of the place which it does not especially deserve, as it abounds 
in the most beautiful and varied forms, in endless variety, giving the 
most striking and pleasing efiects of light and shade. It has also 
been described as having sunk away from the surrounding world, 
with the country rising like steps to the Black Hills, which is not the 
case, many portions of these Bad Lands being higher than all the 
intervening country between them and the Black Hills, from which 
the portions on White river are distant about thirty miles. The 
formation to which this ])ortion belongs extends almost uninterrupt- 
edly east to the mouth of the Keya Paha, and south beyond the 
Platte ; and an instance of the striking appearance which it some- 
times makes is exhibited in Court-house rock and Scott's bluffs. The 
word " Bid Lands" is generally applied by the traders to any sec- 
tion of the prairie country where roads are difficult, and in this way 
to parts of many distinct geological formations; and as it is generally 
calculated to mislead, should not be used. When I shall use it occa- 
sionally, I use only the name of the country, as it was originally 
given to mean bad land to travel through. 

The second section is the cretaceous formation, forming the level 
country at the base of the Black Hills, the valley of the Shyenne river, 
and the immediate valley of the Missouri river, from Heart river to 



65 

the Bip: Sioux. In this section tlie soil is clayey; and wherever there 
is a sufficiency of rain, or streams can be found to irrigate the land, it 
will he productive. The great drawback to its fertility is a want of 
timely rains. A portion of this formation, from the Big Bend to the 
Shyenne, is composed of black shale, and contains much saline matter, 
which renders the water in places unhealthy, and adds to the sterility 
•of the soil along the bluffs of the streams, where saline springs are 
common. In this section, too, there are no valuable minerals or 
good building stone, except that furnished by the boulders. 

The tJiird section, or lignite teiiiary, extends north and west to the 
British line. The want of rain, which is felt in this area even more 
than in the one to the south of it, renders it nearly barren. Every- 
where, through this formation, beds of lignite are to be found, some- 
times of a thickness of six and seven feet. The burnt appearance of 
earth, along the banks of the streams, shows that in former times 
these beds have been on fire over large areas_, and in places are entirely 
burned out, and those on Powder river are said to be on fire at this 
time. There is every reason to believe that in places this lignite will 
be found of quality good enough for fuel. In this section the boul- 
ders furnish the only good building stone. 

In nearly all parts of Nebraska good clay for making brick can be 
found. 

The carboniferous formation is developed in a small part of the 
southeastern portion of the prairie of Nebraska, and I will quote from 
the report of Dr. Hayden in relation to the coal of this section : "The 
town of De Soto is the highest point known on the Missouri where 
these limestones are exposed Ascending the valley of the Platte 
river we find them quite well developed as far as the mouth of the 
Elk Horn, where they pass beneath the bed of the river, and the sand- 
stone No. 1 occupies the country, 

" Several small seams of coal have been found in these limestones at 
Bellevue and other localities, and in the valley of the Platte. About 
ten miles above its mouth I noticed a bed of very dark carbonaceous 
shale, two feet in thickness, cropping out near the water's edge. This 
was considered by the inhabitants as a sufficient proof of the existence 
of a workable bed of coal in the vicinity. The evidence now points 
to the conclusion that though these limestones belong to the true 
coal measures, they hold a position above tl e workable beds of coal, 
and that it is not probable a valuable seam of coal will be found north 
of the southern line of Nebraska. A bed of coal, of inferior quality, 
has been wrought near Leavenwortli City, Kansas Territory, but it 
holds a lower geological position than the limestones of the southern 
portion of Nebraska, the dip of the strata being toward the north- 
east." As our examinations were always somewhat hurried, there is 
room to expect that workable beds of coal may yet be found here, but 
at present we know of no facts against the opinion given by Dr 
Hayden. 

The seam of very inferior lignite found in the neighborhood of Sioux 

City in the cretaceous rocks may possibly, in some places, furnish fuel 

of value, but where seen by us as exposed it gives but little promise. 

In this case, as well as the coal seams in the Platte, mentioned above, 

5 H 



66 

it may be that on penetrating to the interior portions of those beds 
they will improve in quality. 

The section of Nebraska which is now being occupied by settlers 
has fertile soil, not surpassed by any portion of the prairies of the 
Mississippi valley. In this eastern section will be found the fertile 
and wooded, valley of the Elk Horn river, and all the wooded parts of 
the valley of the River Platte. In the southern portion of it good 
building stone is furnished by the carboniferous rocks. 

After passing to the west of the 97th meridian we begin to meet 
with sandy tracts, especially near the 42d i)arallel, in which latitude 
the sand hills ex::end the tiirthest east. In my former report I said 
that but a small portion of Nebraska which I had visited is susceptible 
of cultivation west of the 97th meridian. I did not mean to imply 
that good land on these prairies would not be found west of it, for 
there are fertile tracts as far west as the 99th meridian, in the neigh- 
borhood of streams that are valuable, and contain wood enough to 
support settlements. In stating that the Territory is overspread by 
powerful tribes of roving savages, and is only adapted to a life such 
as theirs, I did not mean to imply that white men could not occupy 
it, but that if they ever did they would have to lead a life similar to 
that of the Indians, depending mainly for subsistence not upon the 
buffalo, but their own herds and flocks for support ; and this is most 
emphatically true of the region between the 99th meridian and the 
base of the mountains. 

There is one thing concerning the longitudes of places west of the 
Missouri river which causes many persons to deceive themselves, and 
is worthy of mention here. A common idea is that the course of the 
Missouri is nearly south from Sioux City to Leavenworth City, and 
that settlers may go as far west of the one place as the other and find 
fertile lands. But the course of the Missouri between these points is 
so much to the east that Sioux City is only fifteen miles east of the 
meridian of Fort Riley, and Fort Randall is as far west as the western 
limit of the Cross Timbers on the 35th parallel. 

Though the western portion of the prairies of Nebraska is not much 
inferior to that of corresponding meridians in Kansas and northern 
Texas, there is no disguising the fact that a great portion of it is 
irreclaimable desert, with only a little wood and cultivable land along 
the streams. 

The reasons for this are, 1st, an insufficiency of timely rains ; 2d, 
over large areas the soil does not possess the proper constituents ; 3d, 
the severity of the long cold winters and short summers ; and a 4th 
might be included in the clouds of grasshoppers that occasionally de- 
stroy the useful vegetation. They are nearly the same as the locusts 
of Egypt, and no one who has not travelled on the prairie and seen 
for himself can appreciate the magnitude of these insect swarms. 
Often they fill the air for many miles of extent so that an experienced 
eye can scarce distinguish their appearance from that of a shower of 
rain or the smoke of a prairie fire. The height of their flight may be 
somewhat appreciated, as Mr. E. James saw them above his head as 
ar as their size would render them visible while standing on the top 
of a peak of the Rocky Mountains, 8,500 feet above the level of the 



67 

plains, and an elevation of 14,500 above that of the sea, in the region 
where the snow lies all the year. To a person standing in one of 
these swarms as the.y pass over and around him, the air becomes sen- 
sibly darkened, and the sound produced by their wings resembles 
that of the passage of a train of cars on a railroad when standing two 
or three hundred yards from the track. The Mormon settlements 
have suffered more from the ravages of these insects than probably all 
other causes combined. They destroyed nearly all the vegetables 
cultivated last year at Fort Randall, and extended their ravages east 
as far as Iowa. 

It must be observed, however, that good grass will generally be 
found all over these plains, varying in quantity and kind with dif- 
ferent localities, and that the desert character of the country is not 
like that found in the deserts on Green river and Snake river, west of 
the South Pass, where even a sufficiency for animals cannot be found. 

A very different condition of soil, water, and building material of 
stone and wood, exists when we reach the mountain region. 

The Black Hills, or more properly mountains, lying between the 
forks of the Shyenne, on the 44th parallel, between the 103d and 
105th meridians, cover an area of 6,000 square miles. Their bases 
are elevated from 2,500 feet to 3,500 feet, and the highest peaks are 
about 6,700 feet above the ocean level. 

The different rocks which compose these mountains, as determined 
by our exploration, are — 

I. Metamorphozed azoic rock, including granite. 
II. Lower silurian, (Potsdam sandstone ) , 

III. Devonian? 

IV. Carboniferous. 
V. Permian. 

VI. Jurassic. 

VII. Cretaceous. 

Ail the rocks below the silurian are igneous and metamorphic, and 
tiie stratification which they exhibit stands every v/here nearly vertical, 
with a strike varying between northeast and northv/est. So constant 
is this vertical dip, that it may not in reality indicate primary stratifi- 
cation, but some mechanical arrangement due to the molecular forces 
brought into existence during its cooling from the heated state. 
All the rocks, from the silurian to the close of the cretaceous, ajjpa- 
rently lie conformable to each other. The shape of the mass is ellip- 
tical. The direction of the longest line of this or major axis being 
about north 20° west. On the west the rocks dip, as a whole, very 
gently, and at a distance of five miles from the foot of the hills the 
cretaceous is apparently undisturbed, though at tlie base these rocks 
In some places stand at an angle of 45°. The manner in which this 
rock lies suggests the idea that the cretaceous probably forms a con- 
siderable portion of the elevated plateau between the Black Hills and 
Big Horn mountains. The dip of the upheaved rocks on the west side 
is as a whole very gentle, not amounting to more than from 5° to 15°, 
and consequently they are considerably developed, and form more than 
one-half the mountain mass composing some very high ridges. These 
rocks have a much greater inclination on tlie east side of the moun- 



68 

tains, and soon disappear under the cretaceous, forming a compara- 
tively narrow belt. The east base of the mountains is from 2,000 to 
3,000 feet below the western. 

The rocks seem also to dip much more suddenly down on the south 
than on the north side. The strike of these upheaved strata is in 
almost every direction corresponding on the exterior nearly with 
that of the tangent to the outline of the mass, and on the interior 
being more nearly coincident with the direction of the major axis. 

A result of this formation is that the upturned rocks break ofif 
abruptly on the side towards the interior of the mass, and leave an 
open valley in many places between this steep slope and the gentle 
one which succeeds it as we approach the interior. In these valleys 
the best roads are found, and one, which nearly encircles the Black 
Hills, is known among the Indians and traders as the Eace Course or 
Running road. 

The Inyan Kara Peak is basaltic, and the appearance through a 
powerful spy-glass of those to the north, known as the "Bear's Lodge" 
and "Little Missouri Buttes," indicates that they are also of this forma- 
tion. More recent volcanic action is visible at Bears' Peak, and two 
circular spaces to the west of this peak, now occupied by muddy lakes, 
indicate the existence here in former times of volcanic forces. 

The highest mountain masses, such a?; Harney's Peak, on the east 
side, are all granite, the rocks, as seen at a distance, appearing in the 
same unmistakable form as those on the Raw Hide and Laramie Peaks, 
namely, coarse granite or gneiss, standing in layers and slabs, indi- 
cating a vertical stratification. A full description of these mountains 
must be left for the final report. They derive their name from being 
covered with pine, whose dark green gives them a black appearance. 
In reference to the carboniferous rocks in these mountains, Dr. 
Hayden says : ' ' The exact positions in the carboniferous system to 
which the limestones around Fort Laramie and in the Black Hills 
belong, is not sufficiently clear from the evidence yet obtained. They 
do not seem to be the equivalents of the beds above described along 
the Missouri, though they may be. The texture of the rock is quite 
•ualike any of the limestones of the coal measure with which we are 
atcxjuainted, and there seems to be an absence of the fossils character- 
istic of the coal measure limestones on the Missouri, and in north- 
eastern Kansas. The latest opinion, however, of my associate, Mr. 
Meek, is that they belong to the true coal measures." 

In these mountain formations, which border the great plains on 
the west, are to be found beautiful flowing streams, and small rich 
valleys covered over with fine grass for hay, and susceptible of culti- 
vation by means of irrigation. Fine timber for fuel and lumber, lime- 
stone and good stone for building purposes are here abundant. Gold 
has been found in places in valuable quantities, and without doubt 
the more common and useful minerals will be discovered when more 
minute examinations arc made. 

I think it exceedingly desirable that something should be done to 
encourage settlements in the neighborhood of Fort Laramie. The 
wealth of that country is not properly valued, and the Indian title not 
being extinguished there is no opportunity to settle it. Those who 



69 

live there now support themselves by trade with the Indians, which 
being already overdone, it is to their interest to keep others away. 
If the Indian title were extinguished, and the protection of the ter- 
ritorial government extended there_, so as to be effectual, there would 
soon spring up a settlement that would rival that of Great Salt Lake. 
The Laramie river is a beautiful stream, with a fine fertile valley, 
and there are such everywhere along the base of the mountains. Pine 
timber, of the finest quality, in abundance grows there, easy of 
access, from which the finest lumber can be made ; building stone of 
good quality abounds. The establishment of the military post, and 
the constant passing of emigrants, have driven away the game, so 
that the Indians do not set a high value on the land, and it could 
easily be procured from them. 

The 2:)eople now on the extreme frontiers of Nebraska are near the 
western limit of the fertile portions of the prairie lands, and a desert 
space separates them from the fertile and desirable region in the western 
mountains. They are, as it were, on the shore of a sea, up to which 
population and agriculture may advance, and no further. But this 
gives them much of the value of places along the Atlantic frontier, 
in view of the future settlements to be formed in the mountains, 
between which and the present frontier a most valuable trade would 
exist. The western frontier has always been looking to the east for 
a market, but as soon as the wave of emigration has passed over the 
desert portion of the plains, to which the discoveries of gold have 
already given an impetus that will propel it to the fertile valleys of 
the Rocky mountains, then will the present frontier of Kanzas and 
Nebraska become the starting point for all the products of the Missis- 
sippi valley which the population of the mountains will require. We 
see the effects of it in the benefits which the western frontier of Mis- 
souri has received from the Santa Fe trade, and still more plainly in 
the impetus given to Leavenworth by the operations of the army of 
Utah in the interior region. This flow of products has, in the last 
instance, been only in one direction, but when those mountains 
become settled, as they eventually must, then there will be a recipro- 
cal trade materially beneficial to both. 

These settlements in the mountains cannot be agricultural to the 
same extent as those on the Mississippi valley, but must depend 
greatly upon the raising of stock. The country furnishes the means 
of raising sufficient quantities of grain and vegetables for the use of the 
inhabitants, and beautiful, healthy, and desirable locations for their 
homes. The remarkable freedom here from sickness is one of the at- 
tractive features of the region, and will, in this respect, go far to recom- 
pense the settler from the Mississippi valley for his loss in the smaller 
amount of products that can be taken from the soil. The great want 
of suitable building material which now so seriously retards the 
growth of the west will not be felt there. 

How far the fine timbers in the interior of Nebraska can be relied 
upon to supply settlements on the Missouri is a question upon which 
I am not qualified to give a very positive opinion. 

The pine extends along the Niobrara and its side ravines for about 120 
miles, and there is nearly an equal extent of it on White river ; but on 



TO 

both streams it is of inferior quality and difficult of access. That at 
the Black Hills is much better timber, and covers an area of about 
1500 square miles; but this is also in situations where there would 
be much labor in getting it out, and an Indian war would probably 
attend the first attempts to do so. 1 think the Niobrara, White, and 
Shyenne rivers could be used to bring the logs to the Missouri, down 
which they could be rafted. 

The great want of timber which is felt along the settlements on the 
Missouri, and the high price which this material commands, may 
probably overcome all the difficulties I have stated to exist ; and, 
having done this as faithfully as I can, I must leave each one to form 
his own opinion on the subject. 



CHAPTER III. 

jRemarJcs on the climate — meteorology . 

The seasons I have spent in Nebraska have, as I am informed by 
those who have resided there a long time, been favored with an un- 
usual supply of rain. With this caution as to the inferences which 
may be drawn from our observations, I will give a short account of 
some of the meteorological phenomena observed by us. 

In the year 1855 we left Fort Leavenworth on the 15tli of June, and 
reached Fort Pierre on the 16th of July. During the passage up the 
river we had 13 days of nearly calm weather; 10 days of south or 
southeast wind, sometimes very strong; seven thunder-storms, some 
of them of great violence, with much rain, the amount diminishing as 
we ascended the river, (there being no heavy rain after the 29th of 
June, all of which time we were above the mouth of the Niobrara.) 
The highest temperature observed was on July 15, at 2 p. m., at 
which time the dry thermometer gave 102° in the shade, and the wet 
bulb thermometer 69°. When we reached Fort Pierre we were in- 
formed that there had been no rain or snow there for more than a year. 
The appearance of the vegetation confirmed this statement, as scarcely 
a green spot was anywhere to be seen. 

Hourly observations on the wet and dry bulb thermometers and ba- 
rometers were made at Fort Pierre from July 17 to 25, and at the 
hours of 7 a. m., 9 and 2 p. m., till August 7. The mean height of 
the barometric column at this place is (reduced to 32°) 28.436; the 
altitude above the sea, 1,500 feet. The highest temperature observed 
during this time was, at 3 p. m., July 22, dry thermometer, 86°; wet 
bulb thermometer, 64°; the barometer, reduced to 32°, reading 28.310. 
On the same evening we had a heavy fall of rain, with thunder and 
lightning, about 5 miles south of the fort; this was the first rain ex- 
perienced in the neighborhood. From July 22 to August 7 there 
were three violent thunder-storms from the west, one of which was 
attended with a heavy fall of rain. An abundance of rain continued 
to fall here during the summer. 

While on the journey from Fort Pierre to Fort Kearney, between 



71 

August 7 and August 22, we had much overcast and misty weather 
nearly all the time, and on seven of tlie days rain fell in small 
quantities. 

From August 25 to September 12 we were on the road along the 
Platte river between Fort Kearney and Fort Laramie ; during this 
time we had two heavy thunder storms, attended with a large fall 
of rain. While at Fort Laramie, we had heavy frost about the 25th 
of September. Fort Laramie has an elevation of 4,200 feet. 

From September 29 to October 19 we were on the road to Fort 
Pierre. The weather at times was very cold, and snow fell to the 
depth of four inches on the night of the 3d of October; for several 
days in the first part of this month the thermometer stood, at day- 
break, at 29°. On the 20th and 2l8t of October we had a violent 
storm of rain^ sleet, and snow, with high winds, which covered 
everything with ice. We were quite surprised, on reaching the 
neighborhood of Fort Pierre, to find the grass green and abundant, 
for it was such a contrast to its appearance in August, when every- 
thing seemed to have perished for want of rain. Much snow fell 
here during the winter, and in the spring there were heavy showers 
of rain, so that a more beautiful prairie country could not be found 
than this, as it appeared in May and June, 1856. At the same time 
the previous year the grasses scarce gave an indication of life. 

We left Fort Pierre on the 28th of June, 1856, and reached Fort 
Union on the 10th of July; on the passage the weather was compara- 
tively clear, with light winds. Up to this time no rain had fallen 
there, and in many places there was a great scarcity of grass. On 
the 15th a heavy storm of rain and wind commenced at 9 p. m., and 
continued till 10 p. m. on the 17th. The wind for several days 
previous had been light, and came from the north. On the 15th, at 
2 p. m., the thermometer was at 90°, the barometer (reduced to 32°) 
reading 27.827. At 9 a. m., on the 16th, the barometer read 
27.735; thermometer 58°. The wind blew with great violence from 
the north all day on the 16th, so that it was with great difficulty 
we kept our tents standing ; and a portion of the enclosure of the 
American Fur Company's fort was blown down. This storm was 
not accompanied by thunder and lightning. On the 17th the 
weather was again clear ; wind light from the northeast ; ther- 
mometer, at 2 p. m.^ 67°; barometer, 28.179. Fort Union has an 
elevation of 1,900 feet above the sea. 

While at Fort Union and in the neighborhood we had after this 
abundance of rain, so that the whole landscape in August and Sep- 
tember wore a beautiful green, and grass was plenty in places where, 
in July, there was not a blade of it. The highest temperature we 
experienced here was on the 20th of July, the thermometer, at 2 p. 
m., reading 93°. The earliest frost ever recorded to have occurred 
here was in the month of August of 1855. 

We left Fort Union the first of September and reached Fort Pierre 
on the fifth of October. We were again struck with the variable 
nature of the climate on finding that but little rain had fallen here 
during our absence and the grass had all dried up, though at this 
place the same period of the previous year it was everywhere green. 



7> 

In the year of 1857 we started from Omaha the 28th of June, in 
the midst of the rainy season, and reached Fort Laramie August 20. 
During this journey we had fifteen rainy days, or about in one four, and 
on many other days there were showers with thunder and lightning 
near us that are not included The highest temperature was 100°,, 
2 p. m., August 11. 

Prior to our arrival at Fort Laramie not much rain had fallen there ; 
but on the 22d it commenced, at 11 a. m., to rain hard and continued, 
with but little intermission, till the 24th. This storm was not accom- 
panied by violent wind, and the barometer gave very little indication 
of its approach, preserving about a reading of 25.980. No one there 
remembered to have ever seen so much rain fall at one time at that 
place. 

I left Fort Laramie on the 4th of September ; we had one heavy 
rain on the 10th, at the base of the Black Hills. While in the Black 
Hills we had a storm that lasted from G a. m. on the 16th till 9 p. m. 
on the 17th. As we were travelling and changed our altitude during 
this storm, and while it was coming on, the indications of the baro- 
meter are not of any value. Our elevation was about 5,500 feet. 
The storm began with a cold rain, thermometer 54°. The temperature 
gradually fell till the rain changed to snow during the night of the 
16th, and the thermometer went down to 32°. There was a strong 
wind a portion of the time from the north. During the latter part of 
this storm we were enveloped in the clouds, and as it cleared up these 
gradually rose, as we could see by the line they made along the sides- 
of the high peaks and ridges. 

We experienced a very violent storm, of about twenty-four hours*^ 
duration, on the 8th of October, while on White river, and had a fall 
of about six inches of snow on the Niobrara on the 18th of October. 
From the 18th of October to the 31st we had four storms of rain and 
sleet. 

I have not attempted here to give the direction of the wind during 
the period, as it could only be done satisfactorily by copying the daily 
register. The prevailing wind through the year is from the north, 
as is fully established by the sand hills along the Niobrara. The 
wind has blown these up to the brink of the precipices along the north 
bank, and on the south has removed them to the distance of about 
half a mile. October is generally a very windy month. In 1856, 
fifteen days of this month, while we were travelling down the Mis- 
souri in a Mackinac boat, from Fort Pierre to Sioux City, it blew sO' 
we could not proceed. The prevailing wind at this time was from 
the south, and we had one violent rain storm, with a south wind. 

A true indication of the nature of the climate of Nebraska is to be 
found in the character of the j^lants which grow there. Certain 
kinds, unable to live through the long periods of drought which occur, 
are rarely to be seen, and those which flourish best are such as require 
but little moisture, or whose roots, penetrating deep into the soil, 
enable them to draw a sufficiency of moisture from below. In the 
high prairies, where there is a good soil, we find the bunch grass 
growing in tufts, but in many places interspersed with patches of 
cacti. The bottom lands of many of the streams support no trees but 



73 

the Cottonwood and willow, and some of tliera produce rank growths 
of the wild sage. 

The absence of trees on all the prairie regions is another evidence 
of the dryness of the climate, and even in places where they can grow, 
as in the ravines, the excessive cold of the winter winds prevent them 
from reaching their full development, as is proved by the dead tops 
of nearly all the trees which extend their branches above the level of 
the prairie. The prairie fires have done much towards preventing 
the growth of trees in places adapted to them, but it is not a sufficient 
cause to account for the general absence of forests. 

An interesting instance of the effect of climate on the growth of 
trees is to be seen in the cedar as you ascend the Missouri. At the 
first Cedar island, in latitude 43, these trees grow in the bottom lands 
of the river, and are large and straight, those growing on the bluffs 
being of an inferior quality. 

The cedars diminish as you ascend, and the last of these in any num- 
ber together is to be seen in the blufis opposite the mouth of the Little 
Shyenne^ in about latitude 45, and here they are exceedingly crooked 
and twisted. Along the Missouri and Yellowstone, in the lignite 
tertiar}' formation, we find the cedar unable to support itself above the 
ground, and, spreading itself over the surface, presents the appearance 
on the hill sides of grass or mo8S. 

During the time I have been in Nebraska I have found everywhere 
an abundance of grass, except in places near the posts and others, 
where it had been eaten off" by the buffalo. 

A considerable quantity of a small variety of corn is raised by the 
Mandans, Eees, and Gros Ventres, near the 47th parallel, on the Mis- 
souri, and it is probable that this corn can be raised along the base of 
mountains as far north as the 46th parallel. The entire mountain 
section of Nebraska will produce good wheat, where the land can be ir- 
rigated, and the abundance of grass for pasturage will permit of the 
raising of immense herds of stock. 

This western portion of Nebraska may, therefore, in the future be 
valuable for occupation for a people partly engaged in agriculture, but 
relying mainly upon the raising of stock. 

Many valuable inferences in regard to the climate may be drawn 
from an examination of the catalogue of plants growing in Nebraska, 
prepared by Dr. Hayden, and appended to this report. 

It is my intention to give tables of the meteorological observations 
in a subsequent report. These, besides the indication they afford of 
the climate of Nebraska, will be useful in aiding the determinations of 
the progress and limits of storms over large areas in connexion with 
extensive investigations on this subject carried on by the Smithsonian 
Institution, under the direction of Professor Henry. 

The thunder storms, so far as we have observed them, have a great 
uniformity. The day after one has passed over is generally cold, with 
a light north wind and high state of the barometer. This condition 
lasts from one to three days, when the wind changes to the south and 
gradually increases in force during the day, and sometimes falling al- 
most to a calm at night. The barometer falls during the time, and 
cumulus clouds besrin to form. After the south wind has blown three 



74 

or four days, a thunder storm comes from the west, generally in the 
night ; the south wind often blowing a hurricane all the time the storm 
is approaching from the west. This storm is again succeeded by cool 
weather and a high state of the barometer, and in general we found a 
sure indication of the approach or termination of a storm in the fall- 
ing or rising of the barometric column. These storms as seen on the 
prairie have a number of independent centres, so that they often pass 
■across the landscape to the north and south without your receiving 
any of the rain. They are frequently accompanied by a fall of hail 
and violent gusts of wind. 



CHAPTER IV. 



Description of principal rivers and discussion of the merits of different 

routes. 

In giving a description of the character and importance of the rivers 
examined, it will perhaps be best to discuss at the same time the sub- 
ject of routes, as they are intimately connected. 

The Missouri, therefore, claims our first attention, and though it 
has been so repeatedly described by others, a few of its general features 
may be enumerated here. A detailed account of the various points we 
examined as locations for military posts must be reserved for the final 
report. This great stream has generally a uniform width from the 
junction with the Yellowstone to its mouth, varying from ^ to ^ a 
mile when the banks are full. In low water the width is much less 
and dry bars of sand occupy portions of the bed, from which the water 
has withdrawn. In the upper part of the river where the trees do not 
destroy the force of the wind, the sand is blown about in the most 
astonishing manner, and the clouds of sand can be seen for many 
miles. Sand banks are thus formed, generally at the edges of the trees 
on the islands and points, and which are often many feet above the 
level of the highest floods. 

The force of these winds may be inferred from this, and from their 
constancy during certain months, especially in October, are of them- 
selves one of the greatest obstacles to the navigation of the river. 

The plans which these sand banks exhibit are those of the perime- 
ters of the islands and points on which they were formed, and not un- 
like those of the Indian mounds in the Mississippi valley, which are 
supposed to be the remains of ancient fortifications. These banks along 
the Missouri have, therefore, been considered as the works of the 
aborigines, such, for instance, as those described and figured by 
Lewis and Clark, as existing at Bon Homme island. I have con- 
clusive evidence, from personal examination, that these were formed by 
the wind, and are not the work of the ancient Toltecs as some writers 
have supposed. 

The river has generally, in the same stages of the floods, about as 
good navigation on account of the depth above James river as it has 



75 

at that point, but an improvement takes place below this point, in the 
depth of the water on the sand bars in low stages, as you descend to its 
mouth. 

Along the banks of the ]\Iissouri the bluffs are generally clothed 
with various species of trees as far up as the mouth of the Platte ; 
above this point the timber is generally confined to the ravines and 
bottom lands. These bottom lands attain a width of from ten to 
fifteen miles after we get above Council Bluffs, which is almost 
continuous to the mouth of James river. Throughout this section 
the edges of the banks are lined with heavy cottonwood and other 
trees, and fuel for steamboats can now generally be found cut up and 
prepared for their use. 

At James river the bluffs close in so that the general width of the 
space between is only from one to two miles all the way to the Upper 
Big Bend, near the 48th parallel. Here again the bottom lands 
become wider, and continue at a width of from three to six miles to a 
point about fifty miles above the Yellowstone. In this last section 
there is also an abundance of large cottonwood timber, and the appear- 
ance of the river is quite similar to what it is at Sioux City. After 
passing the Niobrara the steamboat's crew will have to cut the wood 
required for generating steam, and the only scarcity will be in finding- 
dead trees at such points as the boat can land at. Abundance of fuel 
exists everywhere, if the'wood was cut beforehand and hauled to suit- 
able landings. The portion of the river most deficient in wood is 
between the mouth of the Little Shyenne and Cannon Ball rivers, but 
even here there is an abundance for the purposes of navigation for 
years to come. 

One of the greatest obstructions to the navigation of the Missouri 
consists in the great number of snags or trees, wh<.se roots, imbedded 
in the channel by the caving of the banks, stand at various inclina- 
tions pointing down the stream. These obstructions are, compara- 
tively, quite rare above the mouth of James river, but from this point 
down to the Mississippi it is a wonder often how a steamboat can be 
navigated through them. As it is they cause the boats to lie by during 
the night, and thus occasion a loss of nearly half of their running 
time. But this is not the only delay, for often on account of the wind 
the bends filled with snags cannot be passed, and the vessel is fre- 
quently detained for days on this account. This effect of the wind 
is much more seriously felt as you ascend above Council Bluffs, for the 
protection afforded by the trees on the banks is constantly diminishing. 

Our examinations extended but sixty miles above the mouth of the 
Yellowstone, but the portion between this and Fort Benton was examined 
carefully by the parties under Governor Stevens in 1853, and the results 
are given in his report on the Pacific railroad explorations. It is the 
almost universal opinion of those who have examined this portion of the 
river that it would be navigable in its best stages for light draught boats. 
From our reconnaissance in 1856, I feel convinced that, notwithstand- 
ing the difficulties to navigation which exist, the Missouri is a supe- 
rior river to any in this country, except that portion of the Mississippi 
which is below their junction. The navigation is generally closed by 
ice at Sioux Citv bv the 10th of November, and at Fort Leavenworth 



76 

by tlie 1st of December. The rainy season of the spring and summer 
commences in different years between the 15th of May and the 30th 
of June (in the latitude of Kansas, Missouri, Iowa, and southern Ne- 
braska) and lasts about two months. During this period the tribu- 
taries of the Missouri in these latitudes maintain this river in good 
boating stage. The floods produced by the melting snows in the 
mountains come from the Platte, the Big Shyenne, the Yellowstone, 
and the Missouri above the Yellowstone, and reach the lower river 
about the first part of July, and it is mainly to these that the navi- 
gator of the Missouri above the Niobrara depends. The length of 
time the flood lasts is in proportion to the quantity of snow in the 
mountains, which varies greatly in different years. On the average 
it may be said to last a month, but a steamer starting from St. Louis 
on the first indication there of such rise would not generally reach the 
Yellowstone before it was nearly past this latter point. Rivers like 
this, whose navigation depends upon the temporary floods, are greatly 
inferior for ascending than descending boats. The rise at the Yellow- 
stone would be about ten days reaching St. Louis, and any good sys- 
tem of telegraphing along the stream, which would apprise those 
below, would more than double the advantages to the upward navi- 
gation. If a miscalculation is made by taking a temporary rise for 
the main one, the boat has to lay by in the middle part of the river 
till the main rise comes. From this cause I, starting on the 16th of 
April, was thirty-seven days in getting to Fort Pierre, 1,250 miles 
from St. Louis. Again, if the boat starts too late the main rise may 
all pass the upper river before she reaches it, and her progress will 
then be slow and tedious. By starting June 6, 1855, (which was too 
late, it being an early season,) we were forty-one days going to Fort 
Pierre. 

The American Fur Company's boats are of the largest class of freight 
boats now navigating the Missouri. They are ably managed, and 
the company possesses information by expresses sent from its trading 
posts near the mountains as to the amount of snow that has fallen 
and the probable extent and time of the rise produced by its melting. 
The boats are loaded and time of starting fixed accordingly. Their 
boats carry from one hundred and fifty to two hundred tons to the 
Yellowstone, a distance of 1,900 miles, drawing from three to three 
and a half feet of water, and make the passage up in from twenty-two 
to thirty-five days, Considerable freight is taken out for the post of 
Fort Union, and they generally ascend wiih that for Fort Benton to 
about sixty miles above the mouth of the Yellowstone, and have on 
one occasion gone to Milk river, one hundred miles further. 

The quantity of water is, on the average, about equal from the 
Yellowstone and Missouri at their junction, and above this point 
steamboats venture with caution. The great risk in proceeding 
further of having the boat caught in the upper river during the win- 
ter more than counterbalances the prospective gain. The freight is 
then taken on board of ]\Iackinac boats, and cordeled by hand, 
aided generally by sails. These boats are from sixty to seventy feet 
long, drawing fifteen to eighteen inches, (regulated somewhat by the 
cordeling force,) though twenty to twenty-four inches draught could 



77 

be used. The time from Fort Union to Fort Benton varies from forty 
to eighty days, depending on various causes, of which wind is the 
most important. The river distance from Milk river to Fort Benton 
is about five hundred miles. 

The interests of the general government would be much advanced 
b}' making appropriations to remove the snags which obstruct the 
river below James river. 

The Yelloivstone. — For the first one hundred miles above the mouth 
the bottom lands are nearly all on the left bank ; and the first forty 
miles are from four to five miles broad_, with beautiful, soft, rounded 
bluffs to the west ; the banks of the river are clothed with large cotton- 
wood trees, and the country presents one of the finest locations for a 
military post and Indian reservation anywhere to be found. After 
you advance about forty miles up the left bank, the bluffs begin to 
come on this side almost to the river, and the bottom lands narrow 
and the timber diminishes. A good route for wagons, however, exists 
on this side for one hundred miles above the mouth. Having gone 
thus far you meet with verv impracticable bluffs, barely permitting 
of the passage of pack mules, to get around which with wagons, with- 
out crossing the Yellowstone, you must travel out into the prairie 
one or two days' journey, so as to head the difficult ravines. Bluffs 
similar to these exist on the right bank all the way from the mouth 
to this place, but here the river suddenly changes its position in the 
valle}^ so as to leave the open valley on the right bank, and causes 
the difficulty which exists on the other. 

This point is also the highest point navigable for steamboats, and 
those even of very light draught cannot, except at high water, go 
further than about fifty miles from the mouth, as, in the next space 
of fifty miles, the channel is so very much divided up by wooded 
islands and obstructed by gravel bars. But at the point before men- 
tioned as the head of steamboat navigation, ledges of rock begin in 
the bed of the stream, and about one- half mile below Powder river we 
encounter a dangerous rapid, called by Captain Clarke "Wolf rapid." 
Two miles above Powder river Captain Clarke describes another serious 
rapid, which he calls "Bear rapid;"' and twenty miles above this 
another, which he calls "Buffalo shoal," and which he speaks of as 
being " the most difficult part of the Yellowstone river." All these 
rapids are passed every year by the ]\Iackinac, boats of the American 
Fur Company on their way to Fort Alexander Sarpie, and there are 
probably no obstacles sufficient to prevent them from reaching the 
point where this river debouches from the mountains. 

The valley, all the way to the mountains, is said to be practicable 
for wagons. Above this point the river is said to be much enclosed 
by the mountains, which are rugged and difficult, and covered with 
pine forests. 

From Fort Union to Fort Alexander ^Sarpie, on the Yellowstone, 
the Mackinac boats are from 50 to 60 feet long, drawing from 15 to 
20 inches water, and make the distance, 225 miles, in from 15 to 30 
days. 

None of the tributaries of the Yellowstone, (Clark's Fork, Big Horn, 



78 

Tongue, and Powder rivers,) above their mouths, have ever been visited 
by any exploring expedition, except those of trappers and hunters. 

The Big Horn river is by far the most important of those streams, 
and has been navigated by the traders in skin boats, carrying their 
peltries, from the point where it debouches from the Big Horn moun- 
tains to the Yellowstone, a distance of perhaps 150 miles. Above 
where the stream escapes the mountains it is not navigable for any- 
thing but the smallest boats, and the gorges by which tlie stream 
passes the mountain range is impracticable for any kind of land 
transportation ; a considerable detour being required even for pack 
animals. The portion navigable will, perhaps, according to the 
opinion of Colonel Robert Campbell, of St. Louis, furnish a depth of 
water for Mackinac boats, in high stages, of about ]8 inches, but he 
thinks the navigation of this stream for ascending boats could not be 
used to any advantage. An undue importance has been given to the 
navigability of this stream from the erroneous position of the Yellow- 
stone, as laid down on nearly all recent maps, except those from this 
office, as they make its position nearly 100 miles too far south. The 
manner in which I have been able to correct this is given in my 
report on the compilation of the general Pacific railroad map. 

Poiuder river. — This stream rises near the southern point of the Big 
Horn mountains, and flows a little east of north. The route from the 
Platte to the Yellowstone along the stream is practicable, but as a 
route \'ov wagons it is difficult, requiring the stream to be frequently 
crossed, and the banks are very muddy, and the bed is occupied in 
places by quick sand. 

The Little 31issouri river rises near the North Fork of the Shyenne 
in longitude 105°. I have seen the country near its source, where it 
forms the northern part of the upheaved stratified rocks of the Black 
Hills, and at the mouth where the lignite tertiary exists. Its general 
direction is northeast, and its course through the main portion must 
be in this lignite tertiary formation. From the statements of mem- 
bers of Sir George Gore's party, which travelled up the stream in 
1856, I infer that the route along or near its valley is practicable for 
wagons, though difficult. The valley is one of the great buffalo 
regions. 

The Knife river, Heart river, CMinon Ball river, Grand river, and 
Moreau river, all rise in the prairie ridge east of the Little Missouri, 
and they contain but little water in the winter and latter part of sum- 
mer. I have never seen any of them, except at their mouths, and their 
lengths on my map indicate their comparative size. 

The Big Shyenne is a most important river, and has its extreme 
sources west of the Black Plills, which its two main branches enclose. 
These forks are supplied by numerous streams from the mountains, 
and they unite in about longitude 102° 20', the river flowing into the 
Missouri in latitude 44° 48'. In its lower course I am informed there 
is fertile land on its banks, and there are considerable areas in and 
around the Black Hills. The Shyenne river can probably be rafted, 
and the streams that come from the hills could be used to drive the 
logs down to the river. It must be borne in mind that the pine grow- 
ing on the Black Hills is difficult of access, and the expense of getting 



79 

it out may render this fine supply of timber unavailable to the lower 
Missouri. The Missouri at the mouth of the Shyenne is in the centre 
of the Dakota country, and along its valley we have the shortest and 
best route by which to reach their strongholds. 

Bad river, TFakpa Spicha, (sometimes called Teton river,) receives 
its name from the unpalatable state of its water in low stages, and 
the difficulty of travelling along it in wet weather. It lies throughout 
in the black shale bed of the cretaceous formation. It is along the 
sources of its northern branches that the road from Fort Pierre to 
Fort Laramie is located. 

Whiie river, or White-earth river, (Mankisita Wakpa, or Smoking- 
earth river,) has generally an open, well-wooded valley, with a fine 
soil and luxuriant grass. The road between Forts Laramie and 
Pierre follows the valley from its source to the Bad Lands, where the 
river enters a difficult section bounded with precipices like those on 
the Niobrara. The Bad Lands extend continuously down the stream 
to the South Fork, a distance of about seventy miles. Below this, 
the river winds through a handsome, well-wooded valley of the Mis- 
souri. Any one who travels in NelDraska will always feel rejoiced 
when he reaches the banks of this beautiful stream. It is much 
resorted to by the Brules. It has numerous branches, the largest of 
which is called the South Fork. The pine on White river and its 
tributaries is nearly equal in extent to that on the Niobrara. This- 
stream has been used by the traders to float down their peltries by 
means of skin boats from their former trading-house near Butte Cache. 
I believe it can also be used to raft down the pine timber on the South 
Fork. 

The Niohj^ar a heing a stream heretofore unknown, auvd one in which 
the people of Nebraska feel much interest, I shall describe it in detail. 
This river is about three hundred and fifty miles long. From its 
source to longitude 103° 15' it is a beautiful little stream of clear run- 
ning water, of a width of from ten to fifteen feet, gradually widen- 
ing as it descends. Its valley furnishes here very good grass, 
abounding in rushes or prele, but is for the most part destitute of 
wood even for cooking. After flowing thus far it rapidly widens, till in 
longitude 102° 30' it attains a width of sixty to eighty yards ; its 
valley is still quite open and easy to travel along^ but destitute of 
wood, except occasional pines on the distant hills to the north. In 
longitude 102° 30' it enters between high steep banks which closely 
confine it, and for a long way it is a complete canon ; here, however^ 
wood becomes more abundant and pine is occasionally seen on the 
bluffs, while small clusters of cottonwood, elm, and ash occupy the 
narrow points left by its windings. In longitude 101° 45' the sand 
hills come on the north side close to the river, while on the south side 
they are at the distance of from one to two miles off, leaving a smooth 
road to travel on along the bluffs. The blufl"s gradually appear higher 
and higher above the stream as it descends until they reach the height 
of three hundred feet. The sand mostly ceases on the north side in 
longitude 100° 23'; but it lies close to the stream on the south side nearly 
all the way to the Wazihonska. Throughout this section, lying be- 
tween longitude 102° 00' and longitude 99° 20', a distance of one hun- 



80 

dred and eighty miles, the Niobrara is in every respect a peculiar 
stream, and there is none that I know of that it can be compared with. 
It flows here between high rocky banks of soft white and yellowish 
calcareous and silicious sandstone, standing often in precipices at the 
water's edge, its verticality being preserved by a capping of hard grit. 
It is here impossible to travel any considerable distance along its 
immediate banks without having frequently to climb the ridges which 
rise sometimes perpendicularly from the stream. As you approach 
from the north or south there are no indications of a river till you 
come within two or three miles of the banks, and then only by the 
trees whose tops occasionally rise above the ravines in which they 
grow, so completely is it walled in by the high bluffs which enclose its 
narrow valley. It seems as if it had resulted from a fissure in the 
earth's crust, and now flows at a depth of about three hundred feet 
below the general level of the prairie. The soft rock which forms the 
bluffs is worn into the most intricate labyrinths by the little streams, 
all of which have their sources in beautiful gushing springs of clear 
cold water. In these small deep valleys the grass is luxuriant ; pine, 
ash, and oak are abundant. To the agriculturist this section has, 
however, comparatively little attraction, and that between longitude 
09° 20' and the mouth, an extent of about ninety miles, is perhaps 
far more valuable. Here the bottoms will probably average a width 
of a quarter of a mile, are susceptible of cultivation, and cottonwood, 
oak, walnut, and ash will furnish settlements with all the timber and 
fuel they will need. The river banks seem to present no good building 
stone, nor did we, though searching diligently, discover any signs of 
coal or other valuable minerals. 

In describing the tributaries to the Niobrara, I shall begin at the 
mouth and take the north side first. The Ponka river, which has a 
very fine, well-wooded, and fertile valley, runs into the Missouri 
about five miles north of the Niobrara, in latitude 42° 48' north. Its 
course is parallel and near to that of the Niobrara as far up as the 
mouth of Turtle Hill river. 

Turtle Hill river (Keya Paha Wakpa) is the main branch of the 
Niobrara, and is about one hundred and twenty miles long. Prior to 
the publication of my report and map of reconnaissances in 1855 this 
branch was represented erroneously as being equal to the main river, 
in size, above their junction. 

I crossed it in 1855, 60 miles below its mouth, and it has a very 
fine valley one-half to three-quarters of a mile wide, with good soil 
and a limited quantity of cottonwood timber. The bed of the stream is 
sandy, and its waters are clear and sweet ; width at the mouth fifty 
yards. The first 20 miles of the space between this branch and the 
main river is occupied by sand hills. 

The next northern branch which joins tlie Niobrara, in longitude 
100° 23', is named Mini-cha-duza- Wakpa, or Ptapid creek. At its 
mouth it is about eight yards wide, with a valley about a quarter to 
half a mile wide, and a soil quite fertile, the banks are scantily fringed 
with small trees. It forms about the eastern border of the sand hills 
on the north side of the Niobrara, as far as we could see. Its length 
is about 50 miles. 



8 

There are numerous ravines with steep rocky banks, containing 
springs and running streams, extending out from five to seven miles 
between this branch and the Keya Paha, at the heads of which occa- 
sionally good camping places may be found. 

The mouth of the next stream is in longitude 101° 18'; it has 
scarcely any appreciable valley, flows between high rocky bluffs diffi- 
cult to ascend and descend ; it is about five yards wide, with clear, 
deep, swift-running water, and is probably about 35 miles long. 

The mouth of the next northern tributary is in longitude 101° 30', 
and is called White Earth creek ; it is about three-fourths the size of 
Rapid creek, which it resembles in every particular, and is about 25 
miles long. The next, in longitude 102°, is a small spring rivulet 
about 26 miles long, and above this the branches are all small runs 
coming from the bluffs, generally dry except after rains, with scarcely 
any valleys to speak of. 

On the south side of the Niobrara there are numerous small 
branches coming in between its junction with the Missouri and the point 
where it receives the waters of the Turtle Hill river. Three of these 
are of considerable size, probably 35 miles long, the bluffs along 
nearly all of them being more or less covered with scattered pine, and 
their valleys occupied with clumps of cotton wood, oak, ash, &c. The 
position of the Elk Horn river, about 30 miles south of the Niobrara, 
prevents any of these southern branches having a length greater tlian 
I have stated. From the mouth of Turtle Hill river to that of the 
Wazi-honska there are still a greater number of short southern 
branches, all containing springs of water, and abounding in pine and 
beautiful oak groves. 

Wazi-honska means, in the Dakota language, "the place where the 
pine extends far out;" and this stream, whose mouth is in longitude 
100°, is probably 40 miles long, and all its bluffs and side ravines are 
green with pine. Its valley, though not so wide, is very similar to 
that of the Niobrara in this part, which has been described. 

Snake river, whose mouth is in longitude 100° 45', is quite a large 
stream, some 30 yards wide, its bluffs covered with pine, with a nar- 
row valley like the Wazi-honska. 

Above this there is scarcely any branch coming in from the south 
deserving mention. 

Niobrara is a very shallow and "swift flowing stream," as the 
Canadians say "I'Eau qui Court," abounding in rapids in two-thirds 
of its upper course, and in its middle portion filled with small islands. 
In the lower portion its width exceeds that of the Missouri river, and 
is spread out over sand bars. The bed in the broad portions is quick- 
sand and difficult to ford. Its waters rapidly increase in volume 
through its middle portion, from the multitude of springs and stream- 
lets that constantly flow into it from the foot of the bluffs and out of 
the ravines. 

The traders of the American Fur Company have navigated it with 
skin boats, carrying peltries from their former trading house near 
Snake river, and the stream might permit of rafting if the timber 
should be found of quality and quantity, and accessibility to defray 
the expenses. I cannot, however, look upon it as capable of furnish 
6 H 



82 

ing timber for the country on the Missouri, for the reason that much 
of the pine is too small, crooked, and knotty, and grows in places 
difficult to transport it from. The species is what is called the Rocky 
mountain pine, has a yellowish-white appearance, and abounds in 
resin. The distance on the Niobrara over which these pine ravines 
extend is about 120 miles. 

A road could not be made on the bottom lands of the Niobrara ; it 
must keep out on the high prairie so as to head the ravines. From 
the mouth to Turtle Hill river it would take the narrow divide be- 
tween the Niobrara and Ponka rivers. It should remain on the north 
side of Turtle Hill river from 20 to 30 miles further, and then cross 
that stream, as it would thus avoid the sand at the junction of the 
Niobrara and Turtle Hill rivers, and cross the latter where there is a 
better ford or narrower stream to bridge. Turning then towards the 
Niobrara, this river must be crossed in longitude 101° 20' to avoid the 
sand hills, and the route must continue on the south side to about 
longitude 102°, when it should again cross to the north side. These 
crossings for a wagon road could easily be made at a ford or by bridg- 
ing, but a proper bridge for a railroad crossing at these places would 
be a stupendous undertaking ; for, on account of the nature of the 
banks and ravines, good approaches could not be found so as to de- 
scend to the level of the stream, and the bridge would have to be built 
very high. From longitude 102° west there are no difficulties beyond 
a scarcity of wood in reaching Fort Laramie, or continuing direct to 
the South Pass, and in this course abundance of excellent pine would 
be found near Rawhide Peak. 

A preferable road might be found by continuing up Turtle Hill 
river to its source, and then along the divide between Niobrara and 
White rivers, striking the former stream in longitude 102°; but these- 
divides are generally bad for wagon routes, on account of scarcity of 
water, and it is not certain that we would by that route avoid the sand 
hills. 

I consider the north side of the Niobrara superior to the other for 
a road for the first 90 miles above the mouth, as the greater number 
of streams coming in at the south side would occasion considerable 
detours in gaining good crossing places and approaches. The portion 
of the river flowing through the sand hill region has the sand on the 
south side generally for one-half a mile blown away by the wind, 
leaving a smooth route. On the north side these hills are crowning 
the very edges of the precipices that rise from the river, and cannot 
be avoided. The evidence that this difference between the two sides 
"was due to the wind i^ very complete, and shows that the prevailing 
winds blow much more from the north here than from the south. 

The Elk Horn river rises in about longitude 99°, about 25 miles 
feouth of the Niobrara river. Its general course is southeast, and it 
empties into the Platte. As far up as I have seen it, which is in 
latitude 42°, it has a broad, fertile, and well wooded valley. Where 
crossed by Lieutenant Smith in 1855, nearly south from Fort Randall, 
it is described by him as "a beautiful creek of clear water, with well 
timbered banks and firm sandy bottom." 

The valley of tJie Loup fork is broad, fertile, aad well wooded up as 



83 

far as the old Pawnee villages, a distance of about 80 miles. Above 
this the valley begins to grow sandy and wood more scarce, and about 
the meridian of 100° becomes worthless. An occasional farm site 
could, however, be found almost to its head. Near its source it flows 
through high rocky precipices similar to those on the Niobrara ; but 
its source is in the open and desolate sand hills, a miserable region, 
impassable for ordinary wagon trains, and by all means to be avoided. 
The same remark is true of its main north branch and of Calamus 
river, and probably of the south branch. 

The Platte river is the most important tributary of the Missouri in 
the region under consideration, and its broad and grass-covered 
valley, leading to the west, furnishes one of the best wagon roads of 
its length in America. From its mouth to the forks the bluffs are 
from two to five miles from the water, making an intermediate bottom 
valley of from four to eight miles wide. From the forks to Fort Lara- 
mie the bluffs occasionally come down to the water's edge, and the 
road has to cross the points of the ridges. From Ash Hollow to Fort 
Laramie the road is sometimes heavy with sand. Fine cottonwood 
grows along the banks an'^ on the islands, from the mouth to Fort 
Kearny ; from here up it is scarce and of small size. Cedar is found 
in the ravines of the bluffs in the neighborhood of the forks and above. 
The river is about a mile wide and flows over a sandy bottom. When 
the banks are full it is about six feet deep throughout, having a re- 
markably level bed ; but it is of no use for navigation^ as the bed is so 
broad that the water seldom attains sufficient depth^ and then the rise 
is of short duration. 

The streams of the prairies of Nebraska, below the Yellowstone,, 
flowing into the Missouri river, are none of them navigable to any^ 
reliable extent^ and as most of them run from west to east their 
greatest practical value is in affording the land route of communication 
between our present western settlements and those to be formed in the 
mountains. Their valleys furnish us the only routes by which to 
traverse the intervening desert, for here only are such supplies of 
water to be found as are required, and here, too. is the only soil that 
can be cultivated, and such scanty supplies of wood as the region 
produces. 

Of all the valleys of rivers running into the Missouri that of the 
Platte furnishes the best route for any kind of a road leading to the 
interior, and the best point of starting is the vicinity of Omaha City. 
An appropriation of $50,000 has been expended on bridges, &c., on 
the eastern portion of it, and the only important improvement remain- 
ing to make it far superior to any route on the south side of the J^^te 
i8-»fek8«#ift1»aiblishment of a good crossi|ig*of Loup Fork, either by bridge 
or ferry, both •©i^which are difHcult ; the first on account of the wi4(l^ 
of the stream — 1,000 yards — and the latter on accountof theshoals and 
shifting sand bars. The ford is bad, by reason of quicksands. 
Twenty-five thousand dollars would probably make a good crossing 
to this stream, as the place is within the limit of the settlements. No 
road improvement in the west would be of greater value to the emi- 
grant or to military operations ; and this once done the route would 



84 

not only be the shortest 6ne in this latitude from the Missouri to the 
mountains, but would not throughout have one serious obstacle all the 
way to the South Pass. Any route that takes the south side of the 
Platte river has the South Fork to cross, (which is about as difficult a 
stream as the Loup Fork,) at a point where bridging it or establish- 
ing a ferry is, at this time, impracticable ; the road then, along the 
North Fork, has bad places at Ash Hollow and Scott's bluifs, and has 
to cross the Laramie river and the North Fork of the Platte by bridges, 
over which the emigrant must pay toll. The route by the north side 
of the Platte crossing the Loup Fork is, therefore, of particular value, 
especially i'or early travel in the spring, when the streams are gene- 
rally high. 

I have spoken of the locality of Omaha being, in my opinion, 
superior to any other as a point from which to supply the interior 
portions of the country along the Platte. This in a measure depends 
upon the improvements being made of the crossing of Loup Fork. 
At present Nebraska City is a point })resenting almost as short a road, 
which could be made quite so if bridges were placed over a few small 
streams, and which could be done at an expense to the general govern- 
ment of not more than $20,000. A considerable distance of river 
transportation would also be saved to stores brought from St. Louis 
by selecting Nebraska City instead of Omaha. Besides, the tirst men- 
tioned must always be a 8U])erior point from which to supply Fort 
Kearny. The cost of river transportation to this point is about 75 
cents per 100 pounds. The distance from Nebraska City to Fort 
Laramie, by the proposed improved route, is about 525 miles. From 
Fort Leavenworth to Fort Laramie it is about 645 miles. 

The price paid for transportation, by the Qnanermaster's Depart- 
ment, on these roads, is about $1 50 per hundred pounds per hundred 
miles. 

It will thus be seen that the transportation of stores to Fort L ii n luie, 
by the route from Nebraska City, would be a saving over that irtirii 
Fort Leavenworth of about $1 55 per hundred pounds. The tot«l 
expense from St. Louis via Nebraska City would thus be $8 62^ per 
hundred pounds, and I shall use this route in making a comparison 
of the advantages offered by any route to the north of it. 

The first place which apparently offers a superior route is the neigh- 
borhood of Fort Randall. Stores can be delivered at this point from 
St, Louis at a cost of about $2 25 per hundred pounds. The distance 
to Fort Laramie is about 380 miles, which, at the rate of $1 50 per 
hundred pounds per hundred miles, would give a total cost of about 
/ IWW per 100 pounds, which would ap})arently indicate a saving over 
/ the Nebraska City route of $2'0iH^ per hundred pounds, o i '» c » 1mw iti8 wc - 
/ «iiiilM". There are two reasons, however, why this gaeert advantage is 
])ractically not now attainable: First, the neighborhood of Fort Rfia- 
dall, as a depot for supplies, men, and animals, is not to be compared 
with Nebraska City ; the former being in a comparatively barren 
country destitute of inhabitants, and where the necessary storehouses 
can only le constructed at an expense not less than $100,000. Second, 
the great difficulties of the route from Fort Randall west. That it is 



85 

practicable to take wagons along the Niobrara is shown by our expe- 
dition in 1857. The wagons were loaded with about 2,000 pounds, 
and drawn by eight good mules to each. 

Our time of travelling from Fort Laramie to Fort Randall, counting 
the days necessary to stop to rest the animals, was thirty days. About 
100 miles of this route was through sand hills, where I do not think 
the ordinary transportation trains could have travelled except in the 
slowest and most fatiguing manner. 

The route I have already indicated on the south side of the Niobrara, 
in my description of that stream, would be preferable to the one we 
travelled, on account of the sand, but the difficulty of crossing the 
river would counterbalance the advantage gained by so doing. 

The route between Sioux City and Fort Randall is a very good one, 
and an appropriation of $10,000 should be made to bridge the Ver- 
milion, for the use of the troops at the fort in hauling supplies from 
the settlements in Iowa. 

This route, and that by the Niobrara, would seem to be the most 
direct and proper one by which to continue the military road from 
Mendota to the mouth of the Big Sioux, westward to the South Pass. 
But the great difficulties of the Niobrara route, and the impractica- 
bility of any between it and the Platte, determine me to advise its 
location direct from Sioux City to the mouth of the Loup Fork. 

The road this way, and thence along the Platte valley, will only 
be about 40 miles longer than by way of the Niobrara. A bridge is 
required over Middle creek, at a cost of $5,000; one over the Elk 
Horn, at a cost of $20,000 ; and one over the Loup Fork, at a cost 
of $50,000. A good crossing for the Loup Fork could be made for 
$25,000. 

The next point on the Missouri which claims attention, as one from 
which to supply Fort Laramie, is the vicinity of old Fort Lookout. 
A route from this point should keep north of the White river, and 
intersect the present road from Pierre to Laramie. The eastern por- 
tion of the route I have only examined in part, but feel confident that 
it is a good one, except for about 30 miles through the Bad Lands, in 
which I have no doubt a route could be found that, with some im- 
provement, would be equal to the corresponding part of the Pierre 
and Laramie route. 

The route west of this would then be the excellent one along the 
valley of White river, at the head of which a difficult section of about 
twelve miles needs considerable improvement. This route would be 
about three hundred and sixty miles from the Missouri to Fort Lara- 
mie, and deserves especial consideration as being the proper continu- 
ation of the route located between the Missouri and Fort Ripley under 
the Interior Department, with the design of being continued to the 
South Pass. Stores can be delivered at Fort Lookout for about three 
dollars per hundred pounds. 

The route from Fort Pierre to Fort Laramie is one that has long 
been in use, and is about three hundred and twenty-three miles long. 
Stores can be delivered here for about |3 50 per hundred pounds. 
I think it probable, as settlements advance up the Missouri, and 



86 

Nebraska and Iowa and Dakota become populated, this route, or the 
one starting from Fort Lookout, will claim attention. 

At Fort Pierre the navigable portion of the Missouri is at its nearest 
point to Laramie and the South Pass, and above it, of course, there 
are no competing routes for supplying this section. Neither does the 
nearest navigable point for steamboats on the Yellowstone or its tribu- 
taries offer any route whose diminished length would compensate for 
the increased river transportation. It is believed that any route which 
keeps east of the Big Horn mountains is practicable for wagons between 
the Yellowstone and Missouri, and that the direct route between Fort 
Laramie and Fort Benton is favorable to military movements. 

In consideration of the best routes for supplying the interior, I 
have mainly had in view the wants of present occupation of the coun- 
try. When the habitable ])Ortions of Nebraska become occupied, as 
they eventually will, other routes will become important from causes 
not now operating and that cannot bo foreseen; but I believe that 
those which are now niost important will still maintain the ascendancy 
from the effect of natural causes and the structure of the country. 
The same routes now most used and best adapted to the wants of 
military occupation were long before used by the trader, the Indian, 
and the buffalo, as best adapted to their wants; and when future re- 
quirements shall demand increased facilities of transportation and 
locomotion and railroads shall be built, then they, too, will be found 
near the main routes now travelled by the trains of the emigrant and 
the army. 

As I before stated, an irreclaimable desert of 200 to 400 miles in 
width separates the points capable of settlement in the east from those 
on the mountains in the west. Without doubt these mountain re- 
gions will yet be inhabited by civilized men, and the communication 
with the east will require railroads, independent of the want of an 
interior overland route to the Pacific. For this purpose the valley of 
the Platte offers a route not surpassed for natural gradients by any in 
the world, and very little more is to be done west of the Missouri than 
to make tlie superstructure. A- cheap road for light trains and en- 
gines could easily be built, and when settlements are formed in the 
mountains will become profitable; and the gold that has been discov- 
ered there in valuable quantities may produce this result much sooner 
than we anticipate. The Niobrara apparently presents a more short 
and direct route to the interior than the Platte, but its natural features 
are not so favorable. The direct route from Sioux City to Fort Lara- 
mie by the Niobrara would be, for a railroad, about forty miles shorter 
than by way of the Platte and Fort Kearney. 

I do not, however, consider the route by the Niobrara as impracti- 
cable, but think that the difficulties in the way of constructing it will 
overbalance the advantages of being a shorter route from the Missouri. 
If the route be considered as starting at the city of Chicago, thence 
via Kock Island, Omaha, and the Platte valley, the distance is about 
the same as that by Dubuque, Sioux City, and the Niobrara; the one 
large bend which the former makes at Fort Kearney being counter- 
balanced by the number of small ones of the latter. 



87 

A route for a railroad to the Pacific from the neighborhood of St. 
Paul, by way of the South Pass, would keep on or near the general 
course of the wagon road latel)'' laid out by Colonel Nobles to the Mis- 
souri, at Fort Lookout, and thence along the north side of White 
river, as before indicated. 

Should a route ever be required from the west shore of Lake Supe- 
rior to the South Pass, it could be located on a very direct and prac- 
ticable line, via Fort Ripley, Lake Traverse, and the Big Shyenne, 
and deserves examination. 

But a route from Lake Superior west to the South Pass would prob- 
ably not compete in advantages with that examined by Governor 
Stevens near the forty-ninth parallel. It may, however, be question- 
able whether one of equally as many advantages could not be found 
by proceeding directly west from the Bois de Sioux to the Missouri at 
Fort Clark; thence by way of Knife river to the Yellowstone river at 
the mouth of Powder river. The valley of the Yellowstone then 
offers a direct route west to the mountains, where Capt. Clark crossed 
them in 1856, and thence near the route he pursued to the Bitter Root 
valley. The more direct route would be down the valley of the 
Salmon river; but the information we possess of this stream indicates 
its character through the mountains to be one of great difficulty,. 



CHAPTER V. 

Indians — Military posts — Routs for 7nilitary operations, dec. 

I shall here repeat, with some additions, the account of the Dakotas 
given in my report of explorations in 1855. The Dakotas are scattered 
over an immense territory, extending from the Mississippi on the east 
to the Black Hills on the west, and from the forks of the Platte on the 
south to Devil's Lake on the north. They say their name means 
" leagued or allied," and they sometimes speak of themselves as the 
*' Ocheti Shaowni," or " Seven Council Fires." These are the seven 
principal bands which compose the nation, viz : 

1. The Mde-wakan-tonwans, meaning " village of the Spirit Lake." 

2. Wah-pe-kutes, meaning " leaf shooters." 

3. Wah-pe-tonwans, meaning " village in the leaves." 

4. Sisi-tonwans, meaning " village of the marsh." 

These four constitute the Mississippi and Minnesota Dakotas, and 
are called by those on the Missouri " Isanties." They are estimated 
at 6,200 souls. Some of these on the Mississippi have long been in 
contact with the white settlements, and having sold much of their 
lands to the government have abandoned many of their former habits 
and cultivated the soil. Communities have been formed which have 
made some approach towards civilization ; others of them still live 



88 

principally by the fruits of the chase in their primitive wildnesSy 
and have of late years occasioned much trouble to the settlers of 
northern Iowa. It was they who committed the murders last winter 
on Spirit Lake, 

5. Ihanktonwans, (Yanktons,) '' village at the end." These are 
sometimes called Wichiyela, meaning "first nation." They are 
found at the mouth of the Big Sioux and between it and the Missouri 
river, as high up as Fort Lookout, and on the opposite bank of the 
Missouri. They are supposed to number 360 lodges. Contact with 
the whites has considerably degenerated them^ and their distance from 
the present buffalo ranges renders them comparatively poor. A treaty 
has been made with them, by which they have ceded most of their land 
to the United States. 

6. Ihanktonwannas, (Yanktonnas,) meaning one of the "end vil- 
lage " bands. They range between James river and the Missouri, as 
high north as Devil's Lake, number about 800 lodges, and are 
spirited and warlike, and will give much trouble to the settlers in 
Dakota territory. They suffered severely from the ravages of the 
smallpox in the winter of 1856 and 1857. A small portion, under a 
chief called Little Soldier, live in dirt lodges during the summer. 
From the Wazikute branch of this band the Assinniboins, or Hohe of 
the Dakotas, are said to have sprung. 

7. The Titonwans, " village of the prairie," are supposed to consti- 
tute more than one-half of the whole Dakota nation. They live on 
the western side of the Missouri, and extend west to the dividing ridge 
between the Little Missouri and Powder rivers, and thence south on a 
line near the 106th meridian. They are allied by marriage with the 
Shyennes, but are enemies of the Pawnees and Crows. The Titon- 
wans, excejit a few of the Brules, on White river, and some of the 
families connected with the whites by marriage, have never planted 
corn. They are divided into seven principal bands, viz : 

1 . Unkpapas, "they who camp by themselves. ' ' They roam from the 
Big Shyenne up to the Yellowstone, and west to the Black Hills ; to 
this band Mato Chiqukesa, or the Bear's Rib, belongs, who was made 
by General Harney the first chief of the Dakotas. They number about 
365 lodges. 

2. Sihasapas, Blackfeet. Haunts and homes same as the Unkpapas. 
They number 165 lodges. These two bands have very little respect 
for the power of the whites. 

3. Itazipchos, (Sans Arc,) No bows. Roam over nearly the same 
territory as the Umkpapas. They number about 170 lodges. It is 
difficult to say how these bands received their present names. The 
Itazipchos being as well provided with bows as any other band, and 
use them as skillfully. 

4. Minikanyes or Minui-kan-jous, (meaning they who plant by the 
water.) They number about 200 lodges, and roam principally from 
the Black Hills south to the Platte. They are generally w^ell disposed 
towards the whites. 

5. Ogalalas or Okandandas. They number about 460 lodges, and 
are generally to be found on or near the Platte near Fort Laramie. 



89 

They are the most friendly disposed towards the whites of all the 
Titonwans. 

6. Sichangus, (meaning Burnt Thighs,) Brules. They number about 
380 lodges, and live on the Niobrara and White rivers, and range 
from the Platfe to the Shyenne. They include the Wazazhas, to 
which belonged Matoiya, (the Scattering Bear,) made chief of all the 
Dakotas by Colonel Mitchell, of the Indian Bureau, and who was 
killed by Lieutenant Grattan. 

7. Oo-he-non-pas, two boilings, or two kettle band. These are now 
very much scattered among other bands. They number about 100 
lodges. Some of them are generally to be found in the neighborhood 
of Fort Pierre. 

The Dakotas, on and west of the Missouri, which includes all but 
the Isanties, are the only ones I have heard estimated. I should 
think that eight inmates to a lodge, and one-fifth of them warriors, 
an ample allowance. We would then have — 



Name of band. 



Ihanktouwans, (Yank tons) — 
Ihanktonwannas, (Yanktonais) 

Unkpapas 

Sihasapas, (Blackfeet) 

Itazipchos, (Sans Arc) 

Mini-kan-jous - 

C^alalas 

Sichangus, (Brule's) 

Oo-he-non-pas, (two kettles)-. 





Lodges. 


Inmates. 


Warriors. 




360 


2,880 


576 




800 


6,400 


1,280 




365 


2,920 


584 




165 


1,320 


264 




170 


1,360 


272 




200 


1,600 


320 




460 


3,680 


736 




380 


3,040 


C16 




100 


800 


160 




3,000 


24,000 


4,800 



In the summer the Dakotas follow the buffaloes in their range over 
the prairie, and in the winter fix their lodges in the clusters or 
fringes of wood along the banks of the lakes and streams. The bark 
of the Cottonwood furnishes food for their horses during the winter 
snows, and to obtain it many streams have been thinned or entirely 
stripped of their former beautiful groves. Their horses are obtained 
by traffic with the Indians further south, who have stolen them in 
New Mexico, or caught them wild on the plains towards the Rocky 
mountains; considerable numbers are also raised by themselves. The 
nation is one of the most skilful and warlike, and most numerous in 
our Territory, and could they be made to feel more confidence in their 
own powers, would be most formidable warriors. In single combat 
on horseback they have no superiors, a skill acquired by constant 
practice with their bows and arrows and lances, with which they suc- 
ceed in killing their game at full speed. The rapidity with which 
they shoot their arrows, and the accuracy of their aim, rivals that of 
a practiced hand with the revolver. Notwithstanding the destruction 
of their numbers by small pox and cholera, it is the opinion of some 



90 

that they are increasing in numbers rather than diminishing, except 
where they mingle with the settlements on the frontier. 

These Dakotas formerly all lived around the head waters of the 
Mississippi and Red River of the North, and in their migration to the 
southwest have been preceded by the IShyennes, (with wliom they are 
on friendly terms,) who have given their name to the Shyenne of 
Red river, to the Big Shyenne of the Missouri, and to the section of 
country they now occupy between the Platte and the Arkansas. The 
Dakotas then lived on much of the land now occupied by the Chip- 
pewas, and the Chippewas at that time inhabited the region between 
the Sault Ste. Marie and Lake Winnepeg, the Crees, their allies, 
occupying that from Lake Winnepeg and other lakes as far as Kis-is- 
kad-ji-wan (Saskatchawin river) and towards the Assiniboin river. 
The plains to the south of the last stream were the scene of many 
contentions and bloody combats, nevertheless, oftener the residence of 
the Dakotas than of the other two tribes, until that nation was 
divided into two bodies, originating in jealousy of the women, which 
ended in their being irreconcilable enemies to this day. The less 
powerful and flying party took refuge in the rocky precipices of the 
Lake of the Woods, and received from the Chippewas the name of 
Assiniboins or Dakotas of the Rocks, under which name they are now 
generally known to the whites. They however retain, among them- 
selves, the name Dakotas and speak that language. The other 
Dakotas, in speaking of them, always call them hohe, or enemies. 

The Assiniboins then allied themselves with the Chippewas and 
Crees and forced the Dakotas to abandon all the country north of the 
Sheyenne, which is now regarded as the boundary between these 
tribes. 

The Chippewas, Crees, and Assiniboins are friendly to each other 
and united in their liostility to the Dakotas, and it is improbable that 
any lasting peace can ever be effected between them. The common 
war ground is the region about Lake Minniwaken to which they all 
repair to hunt buffalo. The Assiniboins and Crees may yet occasion 
us no little difficulty, as a large portion of their lands is in the British 
territory, they both are now well disposed and friendly. I saw them 
while at Fort TTnion in 1856, and they were particular to inform us 
that they did not Avant to sell their land and could not spare any of 
what they now occupy. 

These Indians have comparatively few horses, and rely largely 
on dogs, of which they have great numbers, for transportation. The 
flesh of these animals also serves them as food. The Assiniboins 
number about 450 lodges or 3,600 souls. They suffered severely 
from the small pox in 1856-'57. Their country extends from the 
Red river west, along the Missouri as far as the mouth of the Milk 
river. 

The Absarakos, or Crows, occupy the country about the Yellow- 
stone and its branches, being bounded on the east by the Dakotas, 
south by the Platte, and west by the dividing line between the waters 
of the Atlantic and Pacific. 

Their country abounds with everything Indian life requires, and 



91 

they are generally well disposed towards the whites, but have as yet 
seen little of them in their country since 1830, when the trappers 
were so numerous. They were then much dreaded by these adven- 
turers. The Crows are fine warriors ; have plenty of horses, mainly 
derived from traffic with the Flatheads. They live generally in skin 
lodges, and number about 600 lodges, or 4,800 souls. 

Minnetarres, or Gros Ventres. This is a small band of the Crow 
nation, living in a village of dirt lodges, surrounded by a rude stock- 
ade, near Fort Berthold. They raise corn, beans, pumpkins, &c. 
They number now about 800 souls, but, from a variety of causes, are 
diminishing. 

The Arricarees, or Rees, aire a branch of the Pawnee nation, from 
which they have become separated by the migration of the Dakotas, 
and by these latter they are both known by the same name, Fedanis. 

The Rees live in a village near Fort Clark, in a manner exactly 
similar to the Gros Ventres, and number about 840 souls. Formerly 
they were numerous and powerful, and occupied a large village at the 
mouth of Grand river. This was destroyed during the expedition 
under Colonel Leavenworth, sent there in 1825 or 1826 to chastise 
them for the attack on the trading party of General Ashley. The 
remains of dirt lodge villages all along the Missouri attest how 
numerous the Indians of this tribe must have been before the invasion 
of their lands by the Dakotas. 

The Madans live in a village, six miles above Fort Clark, in the 
same manner as the Gros Ventres. They seem to be the last remnant 
of a distinct tribe from any of those around them. They have, 
through the agency of the small pox, rapidly diminished since they 
were visited by Lewis and Clarke, and now number about 250 souls. 
They live in constant dread of the diseases which white men have 
been at times introducing among them, and the main and oft repeated 
request which they made to the Indian agent when I was there in 
July, 1856, was that he would keep sick white men away. When I 
returned there in September, and saw them again a victim of that 
scourge, the small pox, brought among them that year by the steam- 
boat of the rival company to the American Fur Company, and saw 
the despair depicted on every countenance, it made me feel heart sick 
to think what wrongs these poor savages have sufi'ered from the 
cupidity of my own race. The authors of this calamity, which visited 
all the tribes in this region, are fully exposed in the report of the 
Indian agent. Colonel Vaughan, in 1856-'57. 

Bear's Rib, the Unkpapa, gave me the following list of persons 
that died of this disease, from this cause, in 1856 and 1857, that he 
had heard of, though the disease was still at its work of death in some 
parts of the Crow country : 

PersoBS. 

Rees 166 

Hohes 1,500 

Big Head's baud of Ihanhtonwans , 30 

Sihasapas 136 

1,832 



92 

It would be safe to assume the following as probable deaths in tribes 
not included in this list : 

Gros Ventres and Mandows 160 

Absarakos 1,000 



1,160 
Making a total of at least 3,000 souls. 

Betore such blows as this the red race would soon disappear ; no war 
could be so fatal to them. The government should, by all that is 
humane, employ some competent person, at a proper salary, to visit 
them yearly, and vaccinate these Indians, and thus arrest the violence 
of these scourges. 

These three little bands, the Gros Ventres, Mandans, and Rees, 
are fast dwindling away. They never can work much harm to the 
whites, and their mode of life at a fixed abode requires them to be 
peaceful. They exist now rather by sufferance of the Dakotas than by 
their own power, for the Dakotas could soon destroy them if they chose, 
as they did the villages of the Pawnees, on the Loup Fork, in about 
the year 1836. The Dakotas find it convenient for themselves to 
permit the existence of these villages, as their produce of corn, &c.j, 
forms a valuable commodity of trade between them. 

The Ponkas are the small remnant of a once powerful tribe, and 
now live near the mouth of the Niobrara. They are on friendly terms 
with the Dakotas. The government agents have lately efi'ected a 
treaty with them, by which a right to most of their lands has been 
purchased, and a reserve marked out for their location on the Nio- 
brara and Ponka rivers, near Fort Randal. The treaty has, 1 believe, 
not yet been ratified by the Senate. They number about souls. 

The Paivnees were formerly one of the most numerous and power- 
ful and warlike of the Indians of the prairie. They have, through 
the agency of the small pox and their constant wars with the Dakotas 
and Shyennes, been greatly reduced, and their numbers now do not 
probably exceed 4,000. They occupy the country on the Platte 
below Fort Kearny, and on Loup Fork, A treaty was made with 
them in the winter of 1857, by which they ceded a large portion of 
their lands to the United States, and agreed to retire to a reserve on 
th^ Loup Fork, where were their villages which were destroyed by 
the Dakotas. This treaty has not yet been ratified. 

The Shyennes occupy the country between the Platte and Arkan- 
sas rivers, and number about souls. These Indians have always 

been friends with the Dakotas, and associate much with them. During 
the summer of 1857, while the vigorous expedition conducted by Col. 
Sumner was operating against them, a number to the amount of 40 
lodges took retuge among the Dakotas, in the neighborhood of the 
Black Hills. 

They will probably unite with the Dakotas, in the event of any 
general war. Though it is believed, from the great moral efiect pro- 
duced by the march of the Utah expedition through their common 



93 

country, that they must see the futility of ever being able to contend 
against the power of the United States. 

Of all the aborigines in the Territory under consideration, the Da- 
kotas are probably the ones that have undergone the least material 
diminution of their numbers since their discovery by the whites. They 
are still numerous, independent, warlike, and powerful, and contain 
within themselves means of prolonged and able resistance to further 
encroachments of the western settlers. Under the present policy of 
government, which there is no reason to believe will ever be changed, 
these encroachments will continue and new wars will result. I do not 
mean to say that a peaceable advance of the settlements westward 
might not be effected, but under the operation of present causes it 
will not. All of these conflicts end in the discomfiture of the native 
races, and they are fast melting away. It is not, as many suppose, 
that those dispossessed retire further west ; this they cannot do, for 
the region to the west of one tribe is generally occupied by another 
with whom deadly animosity exists. Hence, when the white settle- 
ments advance their frontier, the natives linger about, till disease, 
poverty, and vicious indulgence consigns them to oblivion. The 
present policy of the government seems therefore the best calculated, 
that could be devised for exterminating the Indian. 

The advance of the settlements is universally acknowledged to be 
a necessity of our national development, and is justifiable in displacing 
the native races on that ground alone. But the government, instead 
of being so constituted as to prepare the way for settlements by wise 
and just treaties of purchase from the present owners, and proper 
protection and support for the indigent race so dispossessed, is some- 
times behind. its obligations in these respects ; and in some instances 
Congress refuses or delays to ratify the treaties made by the duly au- 
thorized agents of the government. The result is, that the settler 
and pioneer are precipitated into the Indian's country, without the 
Indian having received the just consideration promised him ; and he 
often, in a manner that enlists the sympathies of all mankind, takes 
up the tomahawk in defence of his rights, and perishes in the attempt. 

It is frequently the case that the settlers are unjustly charged with 
bringing about these wars, and though I feel for the Indian, I cannot 
but sympathize with the pioneer whose life is liable to be sacrificed to 
the Indian s vengeance. 

The western settlers are now fighting the battle of civilization ex- 
actly as our forefathers did on the Atlantic shores, and under circum- 
stances that command an equal amount of our admiration and approval. 

We are in the habit of looking on the power of the United States as 
invincible, but it is far from being so regarded by the savages on our 
frontier. Many of them have never seen or felt it. There the Indians 
far outnumber the whites, and if our sympathies must go with the 
weak they should be with the settlers, who are only able, after a^^«,'»td 
maintain their ground by the aid of the army. 

One of the chiefs of the Dakotas told me that they had a grand 
council in the summer of 1857, on the North Fork of the Shyenue, and 
that their hearts felt strong at seeing how numerous they were ; that 
if they went to war again they would not yield so easy as they did 



94 

before. At that council they solemnly pledged to each other not to 
permit further encroachments from the whites, and he fully believed 
they were able to whip all the white men in the world. In truth, 
they are not without reason in thinking so. They have never seen 
the whites, except in small parties, stealing through their country, 
unable to resist them or protect themselves from insolence ; or they 
find them shut up in little trading posts, where for days they dare 
not, at times, open the gates or show their heads above the enclosure, 
and where, whenever a band of young warriors wish to have a frolic, 
they go and shoot their dogs, chickens, cattle, &c., break the windows, 
and commit any other outrage their fancy may suggest, as a diversion. 
They have seen the Indian agent, (their father, as he is called,) the 
direct representative of the President, insulted and abused with 
impunity by their own race and sometimes in dread of losing his Hie, 
and they, many of them, entertain no respect for the power of our 
government. Numbers of them have never seen a soldier of the 
United States army, and scarce credit their existence. 

Bear's Rib (a great friend to peace with the whites and the moe^t 
influential warrior in his nation) said his people could not be controlled 
by him, and that if he should attempt it in some cases his own life 
would be the forfeit. 

There are so many inevitable causes at work to produce a war with 
the Dakotas before many years, that I regard the greatest fruit of 
the explorations I have conducted to be the knowledge of the proper 
routes by which to invade their country and conquer them. The 
Black Hills is the great point in their territory at which to strike all 
the Teton Dakotas, except the Brules and Okandandas. Here they 
can assemble their largest force, and here I believe they would make 
a stand. In the event of another outbreak, a post should be estab- 
lished at the mouth of the Shyenne, on the north side, from which 
to operate simultaneously with troops irom Fort Laramie. From both 
of these ])oints wagon trains could move with ease, and supplies 
could without difficulty be sent thus to the troops in the field. 
These operations would undoubtedly bring on a battle, where the 
superiority of the weapons of civilized warfare would secure a victory 
to us. They will not, I think, permit the occupation of the vicinity 
of these hills without oftering a determined resistance. Driven from 
these they must go north towards the Missouri, where a still better 
field to operate against them will be found, as this region is every 
where practicable. In this event it might become necessary to establish 
a temporary post above the Shyenne, and a most suitable and efi"ective 
location is to be lound near Long Lake, on the Missouri. 

Those who may take refuge in the ravines and iastnesses along the 
Niobrara, or in the sand hills, could be operated against from forts 
Randall, Kearny, and Laramie. Should the Isanties and Ihankton- 
a wm i ti be hostile at the same time as the Titonwans, they should be 
operated against from Fort Ridgeley. 

It will be perceived that in this plan ^ have considered a war witii 
all the Dakotas to be on our hands, which at no distant day is proba- 
ble, and that there will be required a number of columns and a very 
large force to successfully operate over so much country. These 



95 

columns need not exceed in any case a strength of 400 men^, and these 
should be subdivided so as to beat up the country as much as possible, 
and endeavor to draw the Indians into an engagement where they 
may have some hope of success. With proper troops and commanders 
we need not even then fear the result. 

The movement of large compact columns is necessarily slow and 
they can easily be avoided, which the least military skill teaches the 
Indians to do. The war once begun should not be stopped till they are 
effectually humbled and made to feel the full power and force of the 
government, which is a thing in which the northern Dakotas are 
entirely wanting. 

I believe a vigorous co"urse of action would be quite as humane as 
any other, and much more economical and effectual in the end. With 
proper arrangements the Assiniboins and Crows and Pawnees could 
be made most useful allies in a war with the Dakotas. I see no reason 
why they should not be employed against each other, and thus spare 
the lives of the whites. 

In giving my opinion of the best way of bringing the Dakotas to 
submission, in the event of a war, I think it my duty to state that I 
believe many of the causes of war with them might be removed^ by 
timely action in relation to the treaties, which are from time to time 
made with them, and a prompt and faithful fulfillment of our own part 
of the stipulations, and it is to be hoped that Congress will afford the 
means of carrying into effect the treaty made by General Harney in 
1856, and those made by the Indian bureau in 1857 with the Ihank- 
tonwans and Poncas, and that it will provide liberally for those who 
have been dispossessed of their lands or impoverished by having their 
game driven off by the approach of the whites 

I have always found the Dakotas exceedingly reasonable beings, 
with a very proper appreciation of what are their own rights. What 
they yield to the whites they expect to be paid for, and I never have 
heard a prominent man of their nation express an opi'-ion in regard 
to what was due them in which I do not concur. Many of them view 
the extinction of their race as an inevitable result of the operation of 
present causes, and do so with all the feelings of despair with which 
we should contemplate the extinction of our nationality. 



96 



Washington, D. C, January 31, 1858. 

Sir : I submit a report of the most important cases of sickness that 
required medical treatment in the party under your command, from 
June 15 until December 4, 1857. 

After the party reached the Loup Fork it was necessary to remain 
in camp for a number of days awaiting the arrival of the escort. The 
mouth of that stream was reached July 4, and we encamped near the 
river not far from the town of Columbus. It was in this locality that 
the most serious cases of illness which occurred in the party were 
generated. In passing up the Platte we travelled principally at some 
distance from the stream. Near the river, and along some of its 
tributaries, swampy districts of country exist which might endanger 
the health of persons living in their vicinity during the summer and 
autumn. I noticed long marshy tracts of tliis kind overgrown with 
heavy vegetation along the Loup Fork at this point. Soon after our 
encampment a good deal of bilious derangement prevailed in the party, 
and the presence of mia'^niatic poisons was soon made apparent in the 
occurrence of a number of cases of intermittent fever. Nearly all of 
the party experienced unpleasant disturbances ot health here. The 
season had been unusually wet and the heat was extreme. Vege- 
tation was consequently developed very rapidly, and it was, therefore, 
not difficult to account lor the early appearance of disease among us. 
Under ordinary circumstances I would consider this region as healthy 
as most prairies, but the past seasons were particularly favorable to 
the development of malaria. All of the cases, however, that were 
treated here yielded readily, and when we commenced our joutiiey up 
the Loup Fork no complaint was heard. 

We seemed, however, peculiarly unfortunate in the start ; for, a 
few days after we had got finally under way, the mosL serious case of 
sickness which we had to encounter during the trip commenced. On 
July 23, May, a teamster, exhibited tlie symtoms of lever, and it soon 
became apparent that this man must suffer a long and severe illness ; 
under the most favorable circumstances his chances for recovery would 
have been considered few, and the circumstances under which we were 
of necessity placed tended greatly to diminish those chances. Delay 
was out of tlie question, as his case, if it resulted favorably, would 
require at least a fortnight, and we therefore placed him in the best 
situation that was possible in travelling and did all in our power to 
promote his recovery. This case was an interesting one to the medi- 
cal practitioner ; it was one of those in which the signs and sym[)ton8 
of typhoid and of remittent bilious fevers were intimately blended. 
Delirium commenced early, with stupor, diarrhoea, and that peculiar 
condition of the tongr.e and mouth noticed in typhoid fever ; with these 
some of the common symptons of remittent fever were exhibited, and 
although the attack could not be cut short by quinia, its violence 
was greatly modified by that agent. The sickness of this man 
embarrassed our progress seriously, but after nearly three weeks of 
trouble and anxiety with his case we were gratified to note his con- 
valescence. A halt of three days during the most excited period of 
his disease tended greatly to promote a favorable termination. May 



97 

was hauled the entire distance to Fort Laramie, not being able to per- 
form any duty until we reached that point. On the 8th of August I 
was attacked with bilious remittent fever myself^ and can testify from 
experience to the inconvenience from being sick on the prairies. My 
attack was not severe, and yielded in eight or ten days. These and 
the cases of intermittent were the on!}'' cases of tiever that occurred in 
the party during the season. 

The country through which we passed up to this point was along 
the Loup Fork. That portion of it most favorable to the production ot 
fever is near its mouth ; as you approach the sources of the river there 
are fewer wet tracts near the stream, and the country generally is not 
so flat. I notice the marshes particularly, as that is the only condi- 
tion observed which could interfere with the health of the population, 
if the country were inhabited. These are not numerous after you 
leave the mouth of the river some distance, and there is nothing to 
warrant the inference that the country is not highly favorable to 
health. 

Indeed, in most respects, this region, so far as health is concerned, 
may be considered as highly favored. As you approach the elevated 
regions near the mountains the atmosphere is exceedingly dry and 
pure. Much has been said of the favorable effects of a residence in 
this region upon persons laboring under pulmonary diseases. As this 
far western region becomes more generally known, I think the subject 
will attract greater attention. I think the rational explanation of 
the improvement in consumptive cases that has been noted in this 
quarter is found in the dryness of the atmosphere. Sudden cli tinges 
of temperature here, if not less frequent than in some of our eastern 
States, are certainly not productive of the same bad consequenc38 to 
the invalid. The lungs of those who are suffering with phthisis are 
here free from that constant irritation to which they are subjected in 
an atmosphere loaded with moisture. And the feeling of buoyancy 
and strength that is imparted encourages the invalid to make new 
exertions to promote recovery. A residence in such an atmosphere, 
combined with habits of active exercise, and constant living in the 
open air, might, in some cases I am sure, be productive of the best 
results. An intelligent friend, now residing at Fort Laramie, in- 
formed me that in his youth he was attacked with phthisis, that hor- 
rible disease being hereditary in his family ; he was rapidly declining_, 
and went to this far western region in the hope that the climate might 
prove beneficial ; he made his home amongst the wandering bands of 
Indians, and avoided none of the exposure incident to such a life ; he 
laid constantly in the open air and took as much exercise as possible ; 
his health improved, and in a year or two he was entirely restored, and 
is now residing at Fort Laramie a strong and healthy man. I have 
heard of many other cases similarly restored. In New Mexico con- 
sumption is unknown, I am informed, as a disease originating in the 
country where the climate has the additional advantage of being warm. 

During the extremely hot weather that continued during our jour- 
ney up the ' oup Fork, our party suffered very little wich diarrhoea 
or ajsentery. A number of cases of the former occurred, but only a 
few required any treatment, and but a single case qf dysentery, which 

7h 



98 

was mild. After reaching Fort Laramie those who had been sick 
rapidly recovered, and when we left that post all of the party were in 
excellent health. 

During the fine weather that continued for a few weeks in the be- 
ginning of the fall no cases of sickness occurred. In October the 
weather became inclement, and was very cold and wet. During our 
trip down the Niobrara no complaint was heard, except in some 
chronic cases, which were somewhat aggravated by the bad weather 
and exposure, and when the party reached Fort Randall all were in 
good health. Several of the soldiers had suffered from scurvy du- 
ring the summer, these improved during the trip down the Niobrara, 
along which stream we found an abundance of plums and grapes. 
After leaving Fort Randall (November Tlh) the members of the party 
were attacked with influenza, and this disease prevailed during the 
entire trip from Randall to Leavenworth, and only four or five mem- 
bers of the party escaped an attack. Some of the men, who were 
much exposed to the inclement weather that we exjjerienced on the 
trip, suffered severely, and at times a sufficient number were not off 
of the sick list to carry on the train properly. All recovered, how- 
ever, and when we reached Leavenworth the party was in good 
health. Below is an enumeration of the most important cases treated 
during the season. Many trifling cases occurred of which no note 
was taken. 



Diseases. 



Intermittent fever 

Bilious remittent . 

Diarrliea 

Dysentery 

Gonorrhea acute 

Orchites 

Gleet 

Chronic cystitis 

Diahetes 

Granular confuncteritis 

Tarsal opthaimia 

Influenza 



No. cases. 


Results. 


5 


Recovered. 


2 


Recovered. 


5 


Recovered. 


1 


Recovered. 


3 


Recovered. 


1 


Recovered. 


3 


Recovered. 


1 


Recovered. 


1 


Improved. 


1 


Improved. 


1 


Recovered. 


11 


Recovered. 



Respectfully, 

SAMUEL H. MOFFITT, ^ 

Physician to expedition. 
jjjeutenant G. K. Warren, 

Topographical Engineers. 



EXPLORATIONS IN NEBRASKA AND DAKOTA. 



CATALOGUE OP THE COLLECTIONS 



GEOLOGY AND MTUEAL HISTORY, 



OBTAINED BY 



THE EXPEDITION UNDER COMMAND OF LIEUT. G. K. WARREN, 

TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 



F. y. HAYDEN, M. D. 



Washington, D. C, Novemler 28, 1858. 

SiK : In compliance with your request I have prepared a catalogue 
of the collections in geology and natural history, obtained in Ne- 
braska and portions of Kansas, during several expeditions to those 
Territories under your command. 

The list cannot be made out at this time as complete as could be 
desired, but it will be at once evident to all that the amount of new 
and valuable material thus secured, will, when properly studied and 
illustrated, form a large and positive addition to science. Of the 
fossil mollusca collected most of the new species have been indicated in 
scientific journals by my associate, Mr. Meek, and myself, and about 



100 ^ 

seven hundred figures prepared, making, when arranged for the en- 
graver, about fifty quarto plates. The fossil plants from cretaceous 
formation No. 1 will also be included in the volume, and consist of 
eighteen species, all of which are supposed to be new to science. The 
fossil plants of the tertiary era, of which there is a large series, re- 
markably well preserved and of great beauty, have not yet been 
studied to any extent. We simply know that they comprise about 
fifty species, all of which are supposed to be new, and would alone 
form a good-sized quarto volume. Descriptions and suitable illustra- 
tions of these plants will be made during the winter or spring. 

The fossil mollusca are arranged in their stratigraphical order, thus 
bringing at once before the geologist the characteristic fossils of each 
formation known in the northwest, from the carboniferous to the ter- 
tiary, inclusive. The work will thus form a standard of reference for 
those who may wish to study the geology of the west, and will enable 
the explorer, even though but moderately versed in the science, to 
determine the age of the formations over which he may be travelling. 
The fossil vertebrata, which are very numerous in species, a large 
proportion of which were entirely new to science, have been placed in 
the hands of Dr. Leidy, the great comparative anatomist of Philadel- 
phia, who informs us that the drawings are nearly ready for the en- 
graver. 

The following is a list of the memoirs already published in the 
transactions of scientific societies on the geology and paleontology of 
Nebraska and Kansas, by F. B. Meek and F. V. Hayden. 

1. Descriptions of sixty-three new species of Acephala, Gastero- 
poda and Cejyhalopoda from the cretaceous formation of Nebraska Ter- 
ritory. — (Proceedings of the Academy of Natural Sciences, Philadel- 
phia, March, 1856, p. 16.) 

2. Descriptions of new species of Acephala and Gasteropoda from 
the tertiary formations of Nebraska Territory, with some general re- 
marks on the geology of the country about the sources of the Missouri 
river. — (Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci. Pa., June, 1856, p. 16.) 

3. Descriptions of new fossil species of mollusca, collected by Dr. 
F. v. Hayden in Nebraska Territory, together with a complete cata- 
logue of all the remains of invertebrata hitherto described and iden- 
tified from the cretaceous and tertiary formations of that region. — 
(Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci. Pa., November, 1856, p. 22 ) 

4. Descriptions of new species and genera of fossils collected by 
Dr. F. v. Hayden in Nebraska Territory, under the direction of Lieut. 
G-. K. Warren, U. S. Topographical Engineers, with some remarks on 
the tertiary and cretaceous formations of the northwest, and the 
parallelism of the latter with those of other portions of the United 
States and Territories. Communicated by permission of the Secretary 
of War —(Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci. Pa., May, 1857, p. 34.) 

5. Descriptions of new organic remains from northeastern Kansas, 
indicating the existence of permian rocks in that Territory. — (Trans- 
action of the Albany Institute, vol. IV — read March 2, 1858.) 

6. Descriptions of new organic remains collected in Nebraska Ter- 
ritory in the year 1857, by Dr. F. V. Hayden, geologist to the ex- 



101 

ploring expedition under the command of Lieut. Q. K.Warren, Topo- 
graphical Engineers, U. S. A., together with some remarks on the 
geology of the Black Hills and portions of the surrounding country. — 
(Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci. Pa., March, 1858, p. 19.) 

By F. V. Hayden : 

7. Notes explanatory of a map and section, illustrating the geo- 
logical structure of the country bordering on the Missouri river, from 
the mouth of the Platte to Fort Benton in latitude 41° 30' N., longi- 
tude 110° 30' W.— (Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci., Pa., May, 1857, p. 10.) 

8. Notes on the geology of the Mauvaises Terres of White river. — 
(Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci., Pa., June, 1857, p. 8.) 

9. Explanations of a second edition of a geological map of Nebraska 
and Kansas, based upon information obtained during an expedition 
to the Black Hills, under the command of Lieutenant Gr. K. Warren, 
topographical engineers. United States army. — (Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci., 
Pa., June, 1868, p. 22.) 

Dr. Leidy's descriptions of the new vertehrata, collected from time 
to time, are distributed through various numbers of the proceedings 
of the Philadelphia Academy for the years 1856, 1857 and 1858. 
The principal paper was published in March last, and bears the fol- 
lowing title : "Notice of remains of extinct vertehrata from the valley 
of the Niobrara river collected by Dr. F. V. Hayden, geologist to the 
expedition, under the command of Lieutenant G. K. Warren, topo- 
graphical engineers. United States army, by Joseph Leidy, M. D." 
The details of the geology of the regions explored will be reserved 
for your final report. 

The following is the number of species comprised in the collection 
from each department of natural history as far as they have been 
studied, up to this time. The catalogue includes none of the insects 
of which there are many species, nor the cryptogamic plants which 
have not yet been identified. 

Number of species of fossil vertehrata • 77 

Number of species of fossil mollusca 251 

Number of fossil plants 70 

Number of minerals and geological specimens 423 

Number of species of recent mammals 47 

Number of species of birds 186 

Number of species of recent mollusca 65 

Number of species of fishes 24 

Number of species of reptiles 28 

Number of species of recent plants 1,500 

Of the fossil mollusca named in this catalogue 186 species were new 
to science, upwards of 50 of the vertehrata and all the fossil plants 
are supposed to be new. A number of rare or entirely new species 
were discovered in all departments of natural history. 'The specimens 
are now deposited in the museum of the Smithsonian Institution, and 
in behalf of the expedition I would return my grateful thanks to the 



102 

distinguished Secretary of that Institution for the numerous facilities 
he has very kindly afforded for their investigation. 

F. V. HAYDEN, 
Geologist and Naturalist. 
Lieutenant G-. K. Warren, 

Topographical Engineers, U. S. A. 



GEOLOGY AND PALEONTOLOGY. 



In order to render this catalogue something more than a mere list 
of species, I have attempted to present a summary of the geological 
formations, as far as they are at present known, in Kansas and Ne- 
braska. This will render more clear the geological relations of the 
fossils from the Potsdam sandstone to the pliocene tertiary. 

The rocks of Nebraska, as far as they are at present known, are 
referrible to the following geological systems: 

1. Metamorphosed azoic rocks, including coarse granite. 

2. Lower Silurian. (Potsdam sandstone.) 

3. Devonian. 

4. Carboniferous. 

5. Permian. 

6. Jurassic. 

T. Cretaceous, Upper, Middle and Lower (including Wealden?) 

8. Tertiary. 

9. Post Pliocene or Quaternary. 

Passing over the granitic and azoic rocks, we find that the Potsdam 
sandstone or the lowest member of the silurian period is quite well 
developed in the Black Hills. It is there brought to the surface by 
the upheaval of the igneous rocks and forms a narrow belt around the 
most elevated portion of the Black Hills. This formation^ though 
well Icnown and studied in many parts of the United States, had not 
been discovered in the region of the Rocky mountains prior to Lieu- 
tenant Warren's exploration of the Black Hills, during the summer 
of 1857. So far as is yet understood, this member of the geological 
series has revealed the first indications of organic life on our planet. 
The following species of fossils,, belonging to what Barrande, the great 
paleontologist of Bohemia, has called the "Primordial Fauna," have 
been identified from the Potsdam sandstone of the Black Hills and 
suitable illustrations prepared. Lingula antiqua, (Hall ;) a species of 
Lingula very similar to L. prima, .(Conrad,) occurs in vast numbers, 
forming layers several inches in thickness ; a species of Oholus, very 
closely allied to 0. oppolinus, as figured by Muchison and De Verneuil 
in their work on the geology of Russia, and fragments of a trilobite, 
apparently identical with one of the forms figured by Dr. Owen from 
the Potsdam sandstone of Minnesota. 



103 

The discovery of this formation in the far west is a matter of the 
highest geological interest, and its existence in the Black Hills being 
now well established, we may look for its discovery in many other 
parts of the west, and it will undoubtedly be found holding a similar 
position all along the eastern slope of the Rocky mountains. 

No well marked fossils have yet been obtained from the supposed 
devonian period in Kansas or Nebraska, and its existence there is, 
with our present evidence, quite problematical. 

A large collection of fossils was secured from the carboniferous 
group, in the Black Hills, near the Laramie range of mountains, in 
the southeastern portion of Nebraska, and in various parts of Kansas. 
A large and fine collection of carboniferous and permian fossils were 
collected by Mr. F. B. Meek and the writer, in Kansas, during the 
past summer. These fossils are now being investigated at the Smith- 
sonian Institution. I will therefore omit a catalogue of the car- 
boniferous fossils until our results are more complete. The organic 
remains from all the localities above mentioned, as well as from many 
other parts of the west and southwest, have several species in common, 
and the others are of the same types ; so that the evidence seems to 
be conclusive that these limestones are all of tlie same geological age, 
and belong to the true coal measures. 

One of the most interesting series of rocks in the west are best 
developed in Kansas, but most probably exist near the Black Hills 
also. These rocks were at first supposed to be the American repre- 
sentatives of the permian group of Europe ; but much more study 
will be required to give them their exact position in the geological 
scale. A large collection of fossils from these rocks has been studied 
with considerable care by Mr. Meek and the writer, and they seem to 
warrant the conclusion that by far the greater portion of the strata of 
the so-called permian in the west hold an intermediate position 
between the carboniferous and the permian of the Old World. A 
thorough and clear solution of this problem becomes, therefore, the 
most interesting feature in American geology at the present time.* 

The following species, most of which are of permian types, have 
been described by Mr. Meek and the writer, and published in the 
Transactions of the Albany Institute. The larger part of them were 
obtained by Mr. Hawn and Dr. Cooper in Kansas, and the remainder 
were collected by the writer in Nebraska, opposite the northern boun- 
dary of the State of Missouri, and in the Black Hills, while attached 
to Lieutenant Warren's party : 

1. Blonotis Haioni ; Meek and Hayden. 

2. Myallna {3Iytilus) perattenuatus ; Meek and Hayden. 

3. Bakevellia parva ; Meek and Hayden. 

4. Edmondia ? Calhouni ; Meek and Hayden. 

5. Fleurophorus f occidentalis ; Meek and Hayden. 

'-"' Tlie upper portion of the so-called permian iu Kansas seems to be destitute of true 
carboniferous fossils, but contains an abundance of those belonging to permiuu types. 
We are therefore of the opinion that the upper two or three hundred feet of the*e rocks 
are probably on a parallel with the permian of Europe, and that the intermediate group 
which we have mentioned fills up the hiatus between the carboniferous and permian of 
the Old World. 



104 

6. Pleurophorus (Gardinia) subcuneata ; Meek and Hayden. 

7. Lyonsia [Panopaea) concava ; Meek and Hayden. 

8. Panopaea Cooperi ; Meek and Hayden. 

9. Nautilus eccentricus ; Meek and Hayden. 

10. Leda (Nucula) subsrMula; Meek and HayJen. 

A fine series of fossils, which we have supposed to be of Jurassic 
age, were obtained Irom the Black Hills during the summer of 1857. 
None of the species, so far as examined, seem to be positively identical 
with those found in the jura of Europe^ but the}'^ all belong to the 
same genera, and^^many of the species are closely allied to forms 
which are characteristic of that period in the Old World. In order 
to render more clear our opinion that these fossils are Jurassic, I will 
repeat, in connexion with the names of each species, the evidence 
derived from the study of the fossils, which has already been pub- 
lished by Mr. Meek and myself, in March, 1858 : 

1. Lingula hrevirostris , Meek and Hayden. 

2. Avicida (Monotis) tenuicostata, M. and H., a closely allied rep- 
resentative of the liassic species Monotis suhstriata, Munster. 

3. 3Iytilus pertenuis , M. and H. 

4. Area (CucuUea) inornata, M. and H. Very similar to O. Munsteri 
(Leiten) from the Lias. 

5. Panopaea (3Iyacites) subelHptica, M. and H. Very similar to the 
liassic formSj M, liassensis and 31. Alduininus of Quensted. 

6. Ammonites cordiformis, M. and H., may be regarded as the 
American representative of the European liassic species, A. cordatus 
of Sowerby. 

7. Ammonites Henryi, M. and H. 

8. Belemnites densus, M. and H. This species is so closely allied 
to the oolitic B. eccentricus, Blainville, that we are in great doubt 
whether it is really distinct. It is also allied to the B. panderianus 
of d'Orbigny, from the lower oolite. 

9. Pentacrinus asteriscus, M. and H., so closely resembles the P. 
scalaris, Golfuss, that it was with considerable hesitation that it waa 
described as new. 

From the above evidence we think we may safely consider the group 
of rocks from which the fossils were collected as the American repre- 
sentative of the Jurassic rocks of the Old World. We have still in 
the collection several undescribed species, which are all of Jurassic 
types. 

There is, also, at the base of No. 1, in the Black Hills, a fresh water 
deposit, which we are in doubt whether to place with the Jurassic or 
lower cretaceous. The fossils are a species of Unio, (U. nucalis, Meek 
and Hayden,) and a small Planorbis. 

Near the mouth of the Judith river, on the Missouri, is a most 
interesting series of strata, deposited in a basin-like depression in 
cretaceous formation, No. 1. These beds are composed of sand, 
sandstone, clays, and very impure lignite, wich remains of fresh 
water_, land, and a few estuary shells ; also, remains of saurians, 
turtles, fishes, &c. The exact age of this deposit has not yet been 
determined, the mollusca pointing to the conclusion that it belongs 



105 

to the tertiary period, while the vertebrata are considered by Dr. Leidy 
to belong to Wealden types and allied to those forms, discovered by 
Dr. Mantell, in the Wealden strata of England. With evidence so 
conflicting before us, it will be necessary to make a second exploration 
of that region before we can come to any positive conclusion as t3 its 
age. The following section, in descending order, will represent the 
different beds with sufficient accuracy and detail for our present 
purpose. 

Section of fresh water and estuary deposits near the mouth of Judith river. 



B. 



D. 



E. 



F. 



G. 



80 feet..! Yellow arenaceous marl passing downwards into gray grit, with small 
seams uf lignite ; contains great numbers of Ostrea sublrig<maUs9, Oyrma 
I occidentalis, Melania convexa, &c. 



10 feet.. 



80 feet. 



20 feet. 



100 feet.- 



25 feet.. 



100 feet.. 



Impure lignite, containing much sand, 
wood. 



Osirea siiltrigonalis ? and silicified 



Alternations of sand and clay, witli particles of lignite ; also reddish 
argillaceous concretions with a few saurian teeth, and fresh water 
shells. 

Alternate strata of sand and clay, with impure lignite and silicified wood 
in a good state of preservation. 

Variable bed, consisting of alternations of sand and clay with large con- 
cretions containing great numbers of Melania, Paludina, Helix, Flanorbis, 
Oyclas, &c. , associated with saurian remains resembling the Iguanodon. 
and Megahsaurus, Trionyx, &c. 

Alternations of impure lignite and yellowish-brown clay, the latter con- 
taining great numbers of Unio, Paludina, Melania, Oyclas, and the fresh 
remains referred by Dr. Leidy to the genus Lepidotus. 

Ferruginous sand and clay, having in upper part a seam three or four 
inches in thickness, nearly made up of shells of Unio. Lower part 
ferruginous and coarse gray grit, with a seam near the base entirely 
composed of remains of Unio Danai, U. Dewyi, and U. subspatulata. 



106 



Table showing the stroiigraphical position of the fossils from the " Bad 
Lands" of the Judith. 





A. 


B. 


C. 


D. 


E. 


F. 


G. 


VERTEBRATA. 










c- 
o 














o 


























''■' 






5 . Orocodilus humilis, Leidy -..-. 












6. Trionyx foveatus, Leidy . 






















55 




8 . Lepidotus Haydeni, Leid v .... . 














MOLLUSCA. 

9 . Cyrena occidenialis, Meek & Hay den .. 


c- 
c- 












10. Corbula subtrigonalis, Meek & Hayden ...... 




























1 2 . Physct subelongata Meek aiid Hay deii . . 








o 






13. Paludma vetula, Meek & Hayden ... ...... 














14. Paludi7ia Conradi, Meek & Hayden . 














15. Melania subtortuosa, Meek & Hayden .... .. . 




'-' 










16. Melania omitia, Meek & Hayden 












s 
















s 


1 8 . Melania invenusta, Meek & Hayden ............... 


« 






















* 
* 






20. Helix occidentalis, Meek & Hayden. . ... 














2 1 . Helix vitrinoides, Meek & Hayden ... 














22. Plonorbis ienuivolvis, Meek & Hayden ... . 














23. Plancnrbis amplexus Meek and Hayden 






o 








24. Unio Danai, Meek & Hayden ...... 












c 


25. Unio Deweyanus, Meek and Hayden....... 














« 


26. Unio subspatulatus, Meek & Hayden 














c- 



















107 

The cretaceous group, which occupies so extensive an area on the 
Upper Missouri, has been separated into five divisions, which present 
well marked lithological differences and contain, for the most part, 
distinct species of organic remains. 

Vertical section of the cretaceous formations of Nebraska Territory, so 

far as determined. 



Gray and yellowish arenaceous clays, and 
sandstones, sometimes weathering to a pink 
color ; containing Belemnitella bulbosa, Nauti- 
lus Dekayi, Amvionites placenta, A. lobatus, Sca- 
phites Conradi, Baculttes ovatus, and great uum- 
bers of other marine mollusca. 



Moreau trading post 
and under the tertiary 
at Sage and Bear cr ' ks. 

Fox hills. 



Bluish and dark gray plastic clays, con- 
taining Nautilus Dekayi, Ammonites placenta, 
Baculites ovatus, and B. compressus, with nu- 
merous other marine mollusca — remains of 
Mosasauras. 



Great area about Ft. 
Pierre and along^ the 
Missouri below there. 
Under No. 5, at Sage 
and Bear ci'ks. Great 
Bend of the Missouri. 
Near Milk and Muscle 
Shell rivers. 



Dark, very fine xinctuous clay, 
containing much carbonaceous mat- 
ter, with veins and seams selenite, 
sulphuret of iron, fish and scales, 
(local.) 



Bluffs along the Mis- 

T I 1 1 J.U i souri, below the Great 

Lead gray calcareous marl, weath- ' „ j tt- x j i. r>- 
1 ^ 1, ■ V i- 1 CI 1 I Bend. Extends to Big 

enngabove to a yellowish tmt. Scales 1 „• • . 

, ,, . ^ f. , /-> , ; Sioux river, and oc- 

and other remains of fishes — Ostrea 1 , Ii , . . 

1 J • i. curs along the latter 

congesta — passing downwards into . ° 

•^ ^ ^ stream. 



Light gray or yellowish limestone, 
containing great numbers of Inocera- 
mus problematic us, fish scales, and 

Ostrea congeda. 



Dark gray laminated clay scales and other 
remains of fishes, small Ammonites, Inoce- 
ramus problematicus ?, Serpula, small oyster- 
like 0. congesta, &c , &c. 



Along the Missouri 
Bluffs, from ten miles 
above James river to 
Big Sioux river. 



o "5 



lello-vish and reddish friable sandstone, x- „ ii i.\ c 

.,, ,, .. ^ , , J 1 -i.- I 1 Is ear the mouth of 

withalternalionsof dark and whitish clays. I T>. o- • j 

o ] 1 1 r • 1- -i. f -1 I Big Sioux river, and 

Seams and beds of impure lignite, fossil , ° xu j 

, . . r 1- X 1 J 1 between there and 

wood, impressions of dicotyledonous leaves; L-, ., t,, a- -wt 
eiD, 1 r< ■ e t I Council Blufis. Near 

bolen, Pectunculus, Cypnna, &c. Lower ere- t j-xi • o 
. < jf ' Judith river.? 

taceous. I 



2 a 



108 

rormation No. 1 seems to constitute paleontologically an indepen- 
dent division, none of its organic remains ranging in other formations 
above or below. Nos. 2 and 3 seem to form one group_, the Ostrea 
congesta and Inoceramas prohlematicus passing from one to the other. 
Divisions 4 and 5, which are the most fossilliFerous formations on the 
Upper Missouri, contain many species in common, especially of the 
Cephalopoda, and therefore form a third group. 

The cretaceous system, as developed on the Upper Missouri, there- 
fore forms lithologically five well marked subdivisions, while paleon- 
tologically it admits of separation into three independent groups. 
The age and geological position of divisions 2, 3, 4, and 5, have been 
sufficiently attested by the numerous species of organic remains which 
have been published, from time to time, by my associate, Mr. Meek, and 
myself. In regard to the age of No. 1 much doubt existed, until we 
had an opportunity to examine a fine series of Dicotyledonous leaves, 
which I had discovered in this formation near Blackbird Hill, on the 
Missouri, while attached to Lieutenant Warren's party, in the spring 
of 1857. These leaves proved to us that the formation under consid- 
eration could not be older than cretaceous, and this conclusion was 
published by us in several of our later papers. Although the 
evidence that it is of lower cretaceous age was perfectly satisfactory 
to us, some writers have considered it triassic, while others have 
regarded it as Jurassic and even miocene tertiary, in a late pub- 
lication addressed to Mr. Meek and the writer, Professor Marcou 
says: " Allow me respecttuUy to suggest to you that I cannot see 
anything of cretaceous in what you call No. 1 of your Nebraska 
section. It appears to me that you put in your No. 1, or lower 
cretaceous, all sorts of strata of different ages, except true cretaceous 
rocks." That the rocks in question are not newer than cretaceous I 
will endeavor to prove, both from stratigraphical and paleontological 
evidence. 

Evidence from stratigraphical position. 

Near the old Otoe village, on the Platte river, about five miles 
above its mouthy No. 1 rests directly upon limestone strata of the true 
coal measures ; and at this point I found a species oi Laurus, apparently 
identical with a plant obtained near the mouth of the Big Sioux, and 
at Blackbird Hill. Near De Soto, about twenty miles above Omaha 
City, the carboniferous limestone ceases to appear, and No. 1 rests 
with concordant stratification upon it. There is not the slightest dis- 
turbance of the strata in this region, but they dip gently toward the 
northwest. I traced No. 1 with great care to Blackbird Hill, about 
sixty miles above De Soto, and found a few plants at different locali- 
ties. At Blackbird Hill an extensive quarry had been opened to pro- 
cure stone for building the large mission establishment at that place. 
From this quarry I collected the fine series of dicotyledonous leaves, 
before mentioned, I then directed my course toward the mouth of the 
Big Sioux, about forty miles further up the Missouri, and examined 
the country with great care. The red sandstone, No. 1, was the prin- 
cipal rock in that region, but upon the summits of the bluffs, resting 



109 

upon the sandstone apparently, I often found layers of a yellowish, 
white rather soi't limestone, fully charged with Inoceramas problemati- 
cus and fish remains. Near Sioux City, about two miles below the 
mouth of Big Sioux river, is a vertical section of No. 1, rising about 
thirty feet above the water's edge. At the base of this vertical cut I col- 
lected a number of leaves, similar to those observed at Blackbird Hill. 
From the high bluffs, bordering upon the Missouri, the inhabitants of 
this region obtain immense quantities of the calcareous rock of No. 3, 
composed almost entirely of /. problematicus, and convert it into lime. 
On the Big Sioux river, about six miles above its mouth, I took the 
following section of the strata from a vertical cut with consi'derable 
care. Yellow marl, a recent deposit. 

No. 3. Shaly limestone, gradually passing into bed below, with an 
abundance of Inoceramas prohlemaiicus, and fish remains. 

No. 2. Dark plastic shaly clay, with ferruginous concretions. 

No. 1. a — Yellow friable sand. 

h — Earthy lignite, 6 inches. 

c — Variegated sandstones and clays, extending to water's 
edge, with Dicotyledonous leaves. 

Section near the mouth of Iowa creek. 

No. 3. Gray and yellow marl, with immense numbers of /. prohle- 
maficus, Osfrea congesta, and fish remains. 

No. 2. Dark plastic clay with Am7)ion{fes resting concordantly upon 
the bed below. 

No. 1. Sandstone just above water edge. 

At this last locality I found in No. 1 the plant which Prof. Heer 
refers to, Laurus primigenia, and a bhell which we have described as 
Solen Dakotaensis. Here No. 1 passes from sight beneath the well 
known cretaceous bed No. 2. 

With regard to our No. 1 holding a position beneath well marked 
cretaceous beds, I think I need not say anything further. 

Poleontological evidence. 

The fine series of fossil plants from No. 1, which I collected on the 
Missouri, as well as those obtained by my friend, Mr. Meek, and my- 
self, during our recent trip to Kansas, were placed in the hands of our 
friend. Dr. J. S. Newberry, the well known authority in fossil botany, 
and from him we received the following notes :* 

"They include so many highly organized plants, that were there 
not among them several genera exclusively cretaceous, I should be 
disposed to refer them to a more recent era." 

" A single glance is sufficient to satisfy any one they are not 
triassic. tip to the present time no angiosperm dicotyledonous 
plants have been found in rocks older than cretaceous, while of the 
eighteen species which comprise your collection, sixteen are of this 
character." 

The species of y ur fossil plants are probably all new, though gen- 

* Dr. Newberiy' s remarks will appear in the January number of Silliman's Journal with 
our joint paper. 



no 

erally closely allied to the cretaceous species of the Old World. 
From the limited study I have given them, I have referred them to 
the followJDg genera : 



Sphe/iopteris, 

Abieiites, 

Acer, 

Fagus, 

Fopulus, 

Cornus, 

Liriodendron. 



Fyrus, 

Alnus, 

Salix, 

Magnolia, 

Credneria, 

Ettingshausinia , 



"Of these the last two are exclusively cretaceous and highly 
characteristic of that formation in Europe." 

From the evidence which we have given, we think we are war- 
ranted in regarding our No. 1 as cretaceous, and probably of lower 
cretaceous age. This matter will be discussed more fully hereafter. 
The red sandstone at the mouth of Big Sioux is the type of our No. 1, 
and its relations to the sandstone strata, near the Judith river, are 
not positively determined. 

Table showing the stratigraphical position of the cretaceous fossils hitherto 
identified from Nebraska Territory. 



Formations in ascending 
order. 



1. GENUS CALLIANASSA. 

1 . Callianassa Danai, Hall & Meek 

2. GEN. BELEMNITELLA. 



9. 
10. 



2 . Bdemnitella mucronaia, Sclilotheim 

3. Belemnitella'i ftalhaser, Meek & Hay den , 

3. GEN. NAUTILUS. 



4. 'Nautilus Be Kayi, Morton 

4. GEN. AMMONITES. 



5. Ammonites placenta, De Kay 

6. Ammonites lobatus, Tiiomy 

7 . Ammonites c/fialus, wen 

Ammonites complexus, Hall & Meek 

Ammonites percarinatus, Hall & Meek 
A'nmonites llaUi, Meek & Hayden.-.. 



5. GEN. TUNILITES. 



11. Turrililes Nebrascensu, Meek & Hayden 

12. Turnlites Cfteyennensis, Meek & Hayden 

13. Turrililes umbilicatus, Meek & Hayden 

14. Turrilites {Helkoceroi) cockleaius, Meek & Hayden. 



Ill 

TABLE— Continued. 







Formations in ascending 
order. 




1 


2 


3 


4 


5 




6. GEN. ANCYLOCERAS. 












16 










o 




Ifi 












17 














7. GEN. PTYCHOCERAS. 












18 










i". 






8. GEN. HELICOCERAS. 












1^ 

















?0 


Htlicocerus ? tortus Meek & Hayden ..... ...... 












9. GEN. BACULITES. 












?1 


Baculites ovatus, Say ...... . .......... 










.-.. 


?? 










c- 


2,S 


Baculites grandis, Hall & Meek 








«- 




10. GEN. SCAPHITES. 












?4 


Scaphites Conradi Morton Sp .. . . 










■s 


?*> 


Scaphites Mandenensis Morton, Sp -. . 










G- 


?fi 


S. Nicolletti Morton Sp ....... ... 








o 


c- 


?7 


/S nodosus, Owen . . . 










?8 


S larviformis Meek & Hayden ....... .. 




Q 








11. GEN. SCALARIA. 












?9 


S. ceTitkiformis Meek & Hayden .. . ........... 










- 




12. GEN. TURRITELLA. 












'^O 


T. ? cwivexo Meek & Hayden . . • 








c- 




31. 


T. Moreaumds, Meek & Hayden - 








* 




13. GEN. ACTEON. 












37 


A. , concinnus Hall & Meek . . 








o 
o 


0- 


3S 










34 








-:;;- 




14. GEN. AVALANA. 










35 


A . svbglobosa, Meek & Hayden .... .... -. 








-:;- 




15. GEN. NATICA. 










36 


I^^. Tiu/myana Meek & Hayden . .. 


o 










37 












38 


N. cocinna Hal l&VIeek . .. . . ......... 


1 






39 


N. paludincifoTmis , Hall & Meek ...._ ....... 


1 






40. 


N. ambigua, Meek & Hayden - 


1 





-■ 



112 

TABLE— Continued. 



Formations in ascending 
order. 



12 3 4 5 



15. GEN. NATiCA. — Continued. 



41. N. suhcrasm. Meek & Hayden 

42. N. occidenialis, Meek & Hayden 

43. N. Moreaumsis, Meek & Hayden... 



16. GEN. SOLARIUM. 



44. S. fiexuislriatum, Evans & Shumard.. 

17. GEN, TURBO. 



45. T. Nebrascensis, Meek & Hayden. 
4(). T. tenuilineaiiis, Meek Si, Hayden . 



18. GEN. ROSTELLARIA. 



47. R. Nebrascensis, Evans and Shumard. 

48. R. fusiformis, Hall & Meek 

49. R. biangulata, Meek & Hayden 



19. GEN. FUSUS. 



60. F. 

51. F. 

52. F. 

53. F. 

54. F. 

55. F. 

56. F. 

57. F. 

58. F. 

59. F. 
■60. F. 

61. F. 



Shumardi, Hall & Meek 

tenuilineaiiis , Hall & Meek 

Dakotaensis, Meek & Hayden 

Galpinianus, Meek & Hayden . 

contorlus, Meek & Hayden 

Oulhertsoni, Meek & Hayden 

Jlexuocosiaius, Meek & Hayden 

Neicherryi, Meek & Hayden . 

Vaughani, Meek & Hayden 

suhturritus, Il^eek and Hayden 

inierteztus, Meek & Hayden 

(Fieurotoma) Scarboroughi, Meek & Hayden. 

20. GEN. BUSTCON. 



•62. B. Bairdi, Meek & Hayden 

21. GEN. FASCIOLARIA. 



63. F. CTdacea, Meek k Hayden... 
•64. F. biuxinoides, Meek & Hayden. 



22. GEN. BUCCINUM. 



'65. B. ? vinculum, Hall & Meek . 
66. £. condrktum, Hall & Meek. 



23. NEW GKN. psEUDOBucciNt'M, Meek & Hayden. 
■67. P, Nebrascensis, Meek & Hayden 



113 

TABLE— Continued. 







Formationg in ascending 
order. 






1 


2 


3 


4 


5 




24. GEN. CAPULt's, Hall & Meek. 












68 


C. occidentcdts, Hall & Meek .. .. . 








o 




60 


G. fragilis, Meek & Hayden .. 








Q 




25. GEN. UELCION. 












70 


//. borealis, Morton, Sp. .. 








o 
o 




71 












7? 


//. paielli/armis, Meek & Havden - 










73 


//. alveolus, Meek & Hayden . 










74 


H. subovatus, Meek & Hayden . .. 










75 


H. carinatus, Meek & Hayden . 












26. GEN. DENTALIUM. 












7fi 


D. gracilis, Hall & Meek .. - ............ 








is 




77 


D. fragilis, Meek & Hayden ...... 












27. GEN. BULLA. 












78 


B. volvaria, Meek & Hayden _. 










C- 


79 


B. minor. Meek & Hayden .... 










o 


80 


B. occidentalis. Meek & Hayden ... . 








o 




81 


B. subcylindricus, Meek & Hayden ...... .. ... 












28. GEN. XYLOPHAGA. 












ft? 


^. deganiula, Meek & Havden ...... .. 








«- 




83 


X. Siimpsoni, Meek & Hayden . ....... 












29. GEN. PHOLAS. 












84- 


P. cuneata, Meek & Hayden . . ... 










a 




30. GEN. TEREDO. 












85, 


T. globosa, Meek & Hayden 










« 




31. GEN. SOLEN. 












86, 


S. ?■ Dakolaensis, Meek & Hayden . . 


o 












32. GEN. PHOLODOMYA. 










87. 


/'. elegaiUula, Evans & Shumard -- 








c- 




88. 


r. {Gonomya) Americana, Meek & Hayden . 








• 


89. 


P. undata. Meek & Hayden 


s;s 










90. 


P. fibrosa. Meek & Hayden 






o 




91. 


P. subventricosus, Meek & Hayden 


o 










33. GEN. PAXOPEA. 












92. 


P. occidentalis. Meek & HavU'ii 


o 





. . - - 





.. .. 



8 H 



114 

TABLE— Continued. 



34. GEN. SOLEMTA. 

93. S. mhplicata, Meek & Hayden 

35. GEN. MACTRA. 



94. M. formosa, Meek & Hayden 

95. M. Warrenana, Meek & Hayden. 

96. M. alta, Meek & Hayden 



36. GEN. TELLIXA. 



97. T.? cheymnmm, Meek & Hayden. 

98. T. equilateralis. Meek & Hayden... 

99. T. scihila, Meek cSt Hayden 

100. T. svhdliptica, Meek & Hayden ... 

101. T. Proiiti, Meek & Hayden 

102. T. mbtortuosa, Meek & Hayden 



37. GEN. CYTIIEREA. 



103. C. Missouriana, Morton 

104. C. orhkulcUa, Hall & Meek 

105. C. tenuis, Hall &Meek 

106. C. Deimji, Meek & Hayden 

107. C. Nehra&censis, Meek & Hayden. 

108. C. pelliccula, Meek & Hayden 

109. C. Owenana, Meek & Hayden 



38. GEN. VENUS. 

110. V. ? circularis, Meek & Hayden 

39. GEN. LEDA. 



111. L. ventricosa, Meek & Hayden. . 

112. L. Moreauemis, Meek & Hayden 



Formations in ascending 
order. 



3 4 



40. NEW GEN. COREULAMELLA, !\Ieek & Hajdcn. 

113. C. (jregaria, Meek & Hayden 

41. GEN. THKACIA. 

114. T.f gracilis, Meek & Hayden 

42. GEN. ASTARTE. 

115. A . gregaria, Meek & Hayden -_ 

43. GEN. CRASSATELLA. 

116. C. Evansi, Hall & Meek , 



115 

TABLE— Continued. 



44. GEN. LVCINA. 



117. L. mlumlata, Hall & Meek 

118. L. ocadentalis, Meek. & Hayden 



45. GEN. HETTAXGIA. 

119. //. Americana, Meek & Hayden 

46. GEN. CYPRINA. 



120. C. arenaria, Meek & Hayden . 

121. C. cordata. Meek & Hayden .. 
C. compr&ssa, Meek & Hayden 

C. mala, Meek & Hayden 

C. subtumida, Meek & Hayden. 



122 
123 
124 



47. GEN. CARriOI. 



125. C. Sjjeciosim, Meek & Hayden 

48. GEN. NUCULA. 



126. y. 

127. N. 

128. N. 

129. .¥. 

130. X. 

131. N. 

132. y. 

133. y. 

134. N. 



sulnasida, Hall & Meek - - 

ventricosa, Hall & Meek 

scitula, Meek & Hayden 

Evansi, Meek & Hayden 

equilaieralis, Meek & Hayden 

subplana, Meek & Hayden 

cancellata, Meek & Hayden 

planorrutrginata , Meek & Hayden. 
obsolelastriata, Meek & Hayden.. 



49. GEN. PECTUNCULUS. 



135. P. parvida, Meek & Hayden 

136. r. subimlricatus, Meek & Hayden 



50. GEN. CUCCLLEA. 



137. C. Nebrascenm, Owen 

138. C. cordata, Meek & Hayden ... 

139. C. Shumardi, Meek & Hayden 

140. C. ezigiut, Meek & Hayden 



51. GEN. MYTILUS. 



141. .1/. eittmuatus, Meek & Hayden 

142. i/. Galpinianus, Evans & Shiimard. 

143. M. subarciudus, Meek & Hayden . . . 



52. GEN. AVICULA. 

144. A. triangidark, Evans & Shumard... 

145. A. linguiformus, Evans & Shxnnard.. 

146. A. Haydmi, Hall & Meeli 



Formations in ascending 
order. 



116 

TABLE— Continued. 











Formations in ascendin g 
order. 






1 


2 


3 


4 


5 




53. GKN. GEBVIUA. 












117 


G suhtortuosa, Meelc & Hayden ...... ............ 








o 






54. GEN. IN0CERAMU3. 












M8 


'r' 


yroblemalicus, Sol 
3arabini, MortoD 


ilothein ..... .... 






o 






140 












TiO 


1. K 

I 2 


^agensis, wen . . 












151 


Vphrfixrpn.iix. Ovvp 


n .. . . . 










^'^'> 


I. mhleavis, Hall & 


Meek 










^'\^^ 


Meek .. 










154 


/. tenilineaius, Hall 
1. Cmradi, Hall & 1 
/./ra^fZw, Hall&M 
/. vetitricosus, Bleek 
I.perienuis, Meek & 
7. incurms, Meek & 
/. icmbonahis, Meek 


& Meek _ 










1'i'i 


VTeek 




c- 






ISfi 


eek . . .......... 










1*17 


& Hayden 


o 
c- 








TiS 


Hayden ...... 










Tip 


Hayden . 












160 


& Havden 












55. GEN. PECTEN. 












Ifil 


r. rigida, Hall & W 
i'. NeltTascensis, Mec 


[eek 








■;:s 




1fi'> 


k <t Havdf^n 








c- 




56. GEN. OSTEEA. 












Ifi^ 


Ostrea congesta, Com 
Ostrea larva, Lamar 
Ostreapatina, Meek 
Oi'irea glabra, Meek 


ad 






o 






1fi4 


k 






* 




1fi5 


& Hayden 










Ififi 


& Havden.- . 


« 










57. GEN. CAPEINELLA. 












1fi7 


Caprinella coraloidea 


Hall & Meek 








c- 






>8. GEN. LINGULA. 










lfi8 


Lingula subspatidala, Hall & Meek 








35 






59. GEN. SERPULA. 












1(59 


Serpda? tenuicarinata, Meek & Hayden .. 




o 










60. GEN. HEMIASTEE. 












170. 


Hemiasler? Ilumpkreysianm, Meek & Hayden 








C- 






61. VEKTEBRATA. 












171. 


Mosagarus Missouriensis, Leidy 




.... 


C 


.... 



There are still in the collection several undescribed species of mollusca, also remains of 
fishes from Nos. 2, 3, and 4. 



117 

The great lignite tertiary "basin differs from the tertiary basin of 
White river, "by its numerous beds of lignite, more or less pure, and 
by the extent and beauty of its fossil flora. Some of the beds of 
lignite are seven feet in thickness, but they usually vary from two to 
four feet. The collection of fossil plants from this deposit is very 
fine, consisting of nearly fifty species, all of which are as yet un- 
described, but are supposed to be new to science. Many of the 
leaves strongly resemble those of existing forest trees, and seem to 
belong to the genera Platanus, Acer, Ulmus, Alnus, Populus, 
Betula, Shulex, &e. The mollusca consist of land and fresh water, 
with a few estuary shells. These have all been described, and 
drawings made. Five species of vertebrata have been discovered in 
this deposit. The following species of organic remains have, up to 
this time, been described from this basin. 

VERTEBRATA. 

1. Thespesius occidentalis, Leidy. 

2. Ischyrotherium antiquum, Leidy. 

3. Mylognatlius priscus, Leidy. 

4. Compsemys victus, Leidy. 

5. Emys obscurus, Leidy. 

MOLLUSCA. 

6. Cydas formosa, Meek and Hay den. 

7. Cydas fragilis, Meek and Hay den. 

8. Cydas suhellipticus , Meek and Hayden. 

9. Cyrena moreauensis, Meek and Hayden. 

10. Cyrena intermedia, Meek and Hayden. 

11. Corhula mactriformis, Meek and Hayden. 

12. Unio priscus, Meek and Hayden. 

13. Bulimus teres, Meek and Hayden. 

14. Bulimus vermiculus, Meek and Hayden. 

15. Bulimus limneaformis, Meek and Hayden. 

16. Bulimus Nehrascensis , Meek and Hayden. 

17. Pupa helicoides, Meek and Hayden. 

18. Limnea tenuicosta, Meek and Hayden. 

19. Pliysa longiuscida. Meek and Hayden. 

20. Pliysa rhomhoidea, Meek and Hayden. 

21. Pliysa Nehrascensis, Meek and Hayden. 

22. Planorhis suhumbilicatus, Meek and Hayden. 

23. Planorhis convolutus, Meek and Hayden. 

24. Planorhis fragilis, Meek and Hayden. 

25. Velletia (Ancylus) minufa, Meek and Hayden. 

26. Paludina multi lineata. Meek and Hayden. 

27. Paludina Leai, Meek and Hayden. 

28. Paludina rctusa, Meek and Hayden. 

29. Paludina peculiaris. Meek and Hayden. 

30. Paludina trocliiformis, Meek and Hayden. 

31. Paludina Leidyi, Meek and Hayden. 



118 

32. Valvata parvula, Meek and Haydeu. 

33. Melania oninutula, Meek and Hayden. 

34. 3Ielania Antfionyi, Meek and Hayden. 

35. Melania multistriata, Meek and Hayden. 

36. Melania Nebrascensis, Meek and Hayden. 

37. Melania Warrenana, Meek and Hayden. 

38. 3Ielania tenui carinata, Meek and Hayden. 

39. Cerithitim Nebrascensis, Meek and Hayden. 

The tertiary basin of White and Niobrara rivers forms one of the 
most interesting and remarkable fresh water deposits on our continent. 
It differs, both lithologically and paleontologically, from the two 
basins previously alluded to. It contains no fossil plants, no lignite 
beds, and not one of the numerous species of organic remains which 
have been collected from it is identical or allied to species found in 
other portions of the tertiary of the northwest. Two distinct faunas 
are represented by the collections from this deposit. The fauna of the 
miocene period from the region of White river, and the fauna of the 
pliocene period from the Niobrara. The latter fauna has enabled Dr. 
Leidy, the distinguished comparative anatomist, to arrive at some 
important conclusions. He says : 

" The extinct fauna of the Niobrara is especially rich in remains of 
ruminating and equine animals. Among the former are several pecu- 
liar genera, of which two are closely allied to Oreodon and Leptauche- 
oiia, of the miocene deposit of the Mauvaises Terres; one is allied to 
the musk-deer and another closely approaches the camel. Besides the 
remains of a true species of JEquus, the collection contains those of two 
species oi Hipparion, and several peculiar genera of the equine family. 
There are also remains of several species of canine and feline animals, 
of a small species of beaver, and of a species of porcupine more nearly 
allied to that of the old world than to our own recent one. The col- 
lection further contains remains of a rhinoceros, resembling those of 
India, those of a new species of mastodon, and those of a large 
elephant. 

" One of the most remarkable circumstances in relation with this 
extinct fauna is, that it is more nearly allied to the present recent one 
of the old world than to that of our own continent. From a com- 
parison of our recent fauna and flora with that of the eastern continent, 
the deduction has been made, that the western continent is the older 
of the two, geologically speaking, whereas, the Niobrara fauna would 
indicate just the reverse relationship of age. A number of similar 
instances show that totally different fauna and flora may be cotempo- 
raneous, and do not necessarily indicate different period of existence." 



119 



Veriical section, shoiving the order of superposition of the different beds 
of the Tertiary basin of White and Niobrara rivers. 



Si BDIVI3I0XS. 


Localities. 


^5 


o 
o 

(— c 

1-5 
P-i 

2 


1 Yellow silicious marl, similar in its char- 
acter to the loess of the Rhine, passing 
down into variegated indurated clays and 
brown and yellow fine grits ; contains re- 
mains of extinct (juadrupeds, mingled with 
j those identical with recent ones ; also a 
1 few moUusca, mostly identical with recent 
species so far as determined. 


Most fully developed along 
the Missouri river, from the 
mouth of the Niobrara to St. 
Joseph ; also in the Platte 
valley and on the Loup Fork. 


o 
o 
•o 

_o 

o 
o 

CO 


Pi 
< 

8 


1st. Dark gray or brown sand, loose, 

\ incoherent, witli remains of mastodon, 

elephant, &c. 2d. Sand and gravel, inco- 

■ lierent. 3d. Yellowish white giit, with 

many calcareous, arenaceous concretions. 

1 4th. Grey sand with a greenish tinge ; 

. 1 contains the greater part of the organic 

^ i remains. 5th. Deep yellowish red arena- 

% ceous marl. 6th. Yellowish gi'ay grit, 

^ sometimes quite calcareous, with numerous 

, layers of concretionary limestone from two 

to six inches in thickness, containing fresh 

, water and land-shells, Succinea, Limnea, 

' Paludina, Helix, &c. , closely allied and 

perhaps identical with living species ; also 

much wood of coniferous character. 


Covers a very large area on 
Loup Fork, from the mouth 
of North Brancli to source of 
Loup Fork ; also in the Platte 
valley. Most fully developed 
on the Niobrara river, ex- 
tending from the mouth of 
Turtle river three hundred 
miles up the Niobrara. Also 
on Bijoux Hills and Medicine 
Hills. Thinly represented in 
the valley of White river. 


o 
o 

o 

O 


o 

o 


j Usually a coarse grained sandstone, 
sometimes heavy bedded and compact ; 
-sometimes loose and incoherent ; varies 
much in different localities. Forms im- 
'^ ' mense masses of conglomerate ; also con- 
's ' tains layers of tabular limestone with in- 
^ distinct organic remains ; very few mam- 
malian remains detected, and tliose in a 
fragmentary condition. Passes gradually 
into the bed below. 


Most fully developed along 
the upper portion of Niobrara 
river and in tlie region around 
Fort Laramie. Seen also on 
White river and on Grind- 
stone Hills. 


O 

o 

o 

o 
oo 

l-t 


1— 1 




A dull reddish brown indurated grit, 
with many layers of silico-calcareous con- 
cretions, sometimes forming a heavy-bed- 
ded fine-grained sandstone ; contains com- 
paratively few organic remains. 


Niobrara and.Platte rivers ; 
well developed in the region 
of Fort Laramie ; also in the 
valley of White river. Con- 
spicuous, and composing the 
main part of the dividing 
ridge between White and 
Niobrara rivers. 


ID 

o 
o 

o 

o 

CO 



120 

VERTICAL SECTION— Continued. 



Subdivisions. 



LocAunES. 



Very fine yellow calcareous sand, not 
differing very materially from Bed D, with 
numerous layers of concretions and rarely 
organic remains, passing down into a va- 
riegated bed, consisting of alternate layers 
of dark brown clay and light grey calca- 
reous grit, forming bands, of Avhich I 
counted twenty-seven at one locality, vary- 
ing from one inch to two feet in thickness. 



White river. Bear creek. 
Ash Grove spring, head of 
Shyenne river. Most con- 
spicuous near White river. 



A deep flesh colored argillo-calcareous 
indurated grit ; the outside, when weath- 
ered, has the appearance of a plastic clay. 
Passes down into a gray clay, with layers 
of sandstone ; underlaid by a flesh colored 
argillo-calcareous stratum, containing a 
profusion of mammalian and chelonian 
remains. Turtle and Oreodon Bed. 



Light gray fine sand, with more or less 
calcareous matter, passing down into an 
ash-colored plastic clay, with large quanti- 
ties of quartz grains disseminated through 
it, sometimes forming aggregated masses 
like quartzose sandstone cemented Avith 
plastic clay ; then an ash-colored clay with 
a greenish tinge, underlaid at base by a 
light gray and ferruginous silicious sand 
and gravel, with j^inkish bands. Immense 
quantities of silex in the form of seams all 
through the beds. Titanotherium Bed. 



Cretaceous beds 5 and 4, with their 
usual lithological characters and fossils. 



Old Woman's creek, a fork 
of Shyenne river ; also on the 
head of the South Fork of the 
Shyenne ; most conspicuous 
on Sage and Bear creeks, and 
at Ash Grove spring. Well 
developed in numerous local- 
ities in the valley of White 
river. 



Old Woman's creek ; also 
in many localities along the 
valley of the South Fork of 
Shyenne. Best development 
on Sage and Bear creeks. 
Seen at several localities in 
the valley of White river. 



Exposed underneath the 
tertiary beds on the South 
Fork of Shyenne and its 
southern branches, also in 
White river valley near its 
source. 



121 



Catalogue of all the fossils hitherto described, from the tertiary forma- 
tions of White and Niobrara rivers, ivith a table shoiving their strati- 
graphical position. 





Beds in ascending order. 




A. 


B. 


C. 


D. 


E. 


F. 


KUMINANTIA. 

1 . Orecdon gracilis, Leidy . ..... .. .... 




G 


o 


o 












3 . Oreodo7i major, Leidy . ... . 
























6 Foebrotherium VTihoni, Leidy . ...... 












.... 


•:;> 






8. Lcpiauchinia decora, Leidy.. . ... .. 




















10. Protomeryx Haiti, Leidy .. . 












1 1 . Merycodus necaius, Leidy ...... 










-s 


12. Megalomeryx niobrahensis, Leidy ...... 












-::s 


1 3. Meryckochcerus proprius, Leidy .... - 








o 






14. Procamdus occidenlalis, Leidy _. jl... ...... 










■::s 


15. Procunielus robusttis, Leidy ............. 












■is 


16. Procamelus gracilis, Leidy . . _. 












o 


1 7 . Merychyus elegans, Leidy ... 












a 


18 . Merychyus ijiedius, Leidy , .......... .... ... 












o 


19. Merychyus major, Leidy . ........ 












'..i 


20. Cervus Warreni, Leidy .... . .... 












o 


MULTUNGULA, 


o 












22. Ente^odon Morioni, Leidy ........... . 


o 











23. ErUelodon ingens, Leidy . . 








24. Titanotherium Prouii, Leidy . . .... ..... 


o 










---- 


o 






27. Leptochoarus spectabilis, Leidy . . 








28. Rhinoceros occidenlalis, Leidy ...... . 








29. Rhinoceros (Hyracodon) nebrascensis Leidy.. 










c- 


31. Mastodon (Tetralophodon) merificus Leidy . .. . 












o 














c- 


SOLIDUNGULA. 












s 














c- 






o 










36. Anchiiherium (Hypohippus) afflnis Leidv ... 






o 


















38. Merychippns insiynis, Leidy ... .. 










o 


39. Merychippus mirabilis , Leidy . 












o 


40. Equus excelsus, Leidy ..... . ..... 












•5 


4cl.'' Eqiius (Protokippus) perditus, Leidy . 












o 


RODENTIA. 

42. Steneojlber nebrascensis, Licidy ....... ... . .. ..... 






Q 


o 






43. Ischyromystypus, Leidy .... . 








. . . • 


...- 



122 

CATALOGUE— Continued. 





Beds in ascending order. 




A. 


B. 


C. 


D. 


E. 


F. 


KODENTiA — Continued. 
44. Palceolagus Ilaydeni, Leidy . .... 






o 











o 






46. Hijstrix (Uyslricops) venusius, Leidy. . . 






o 


.... 


o 


47. Cast&r (^Eucastw) tortus, Leidy........... 








(^ 


CARNIVORA. 

48. Ilijccnodon horridus, Jje'uly - ..... ... 




■::i 
c- 










49. Ilycenodon criientus , Leidy . . 












50. Hyamodon crucians, Leidy .. . .. 
























52. Amphicyon gracilis, Leidy . 












53. Leptardus primus, Leidy ... 










Q 


54. Deinictis fdina, Leidy . .. 




s> 










55. Machairodus primcBvus, Leidy ... . . 












.56. Felis {PseudaiuTus) intrepidus, Leidy....... 












6'7. JELurodcm ferox, Leidy. .............. 












* 


58. Canis savus, Leidy ... . . 












O 


59. Canis ianerarius, Leidy . . ...... 












o 


60. Canis vafer, Leidy 












ss 


•OL Canis {^Epicy on") Ilaydeni, Leidy . 












c- 


CHELOXIA. 

62. Testudo nehrascemii, Leidy ..... 




. 


o 


c 


o 




<6 3 . Testudo ( Styleniy s) niohrahtnsis, Leidy ...... 




o 


MOLLUSCA. 

-64. Helix Leidyi, Hall and Meek 














■65. Planorbis nebrascensis, Evans and Shumard 












<66. Lymnea diaphana, Evans and Shumard .... . 








.... 




67 . Lymnea nebrascensis, Evana and Shumard 










■68. Physa secalina, Evixns and Shumard . 












CRUSTACEA. 

€ 9 . Oijpris Leidyi, Evans and Shumard .... .»., 

























123 



MINERALS AND GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS. 



1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

53 

24 

25 

26 

127 

28 

29 

30 

31 

32 

33 

34 

35 

36 

37 

38 

39 

40 
41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 
49 
58 
51 
52 
53 
54 
55 
56 
57 



I. IGNEOUS AND METAMOUPHIC KOCKS. 

Gneisa ferruginous 

Mica elate - 

Mica, more micaceoua 

Granite, coarse — — 

Mica slate, with silvery mica 

Grauite, pulverulent - 

Felspar, flesh-colored from No. 6 

Granite, fine grained, micaceous 

Granite, gray - 

Quartz, white 

Hornblende slate - 

Hornblende rock 

Mica slate 

Hornblende rock in granite 

Red felspar from 14 

Crystalline quartz from 14 

Flesh-colored felspar from 14 

Mica slate, with garnets 

Mica slate, with garnets 

Mica, containing iron 

Flesh-colored felspar in large crystals 

Chlorite slate 

Mica slate 

Granite, coarse, over No. 23 

Felspathic granite, pink 

Quartz veins in 25 

Hornblende rock, masses in granite 

Granite, fine grained 

Hornblende rock 

Hornblendic granite 

Hornblende, with crystals of felspar 

Mica slate, hornblendic 

Mica slate, hornblendic • 

Mica slate, with large plates of mica 

Granite, white felspathic 

Quartz, veins in 35 

Silicious limestone, silurian or devonian 

do ...do.. highly crystalline 

do do do 

Syenite, pink, under 39 

Metamorphic silicious limestone 

do do purplish 

Quartz, in granite 

Metamorphic limestone, gray 

Mica slate 

Micaceous granite....- 

do 

Mica slate, fine gr^ned 

Metamorphic limestone, crystalline 

.-..do do purplish 

— do do similar to 43 

Talcose slate 

Felspathic granite, flesh-colored 

Mica slate, with garnets 

do very fine grained 

Talcose slate, dark - , 

do light 

Porphyritic trap - -. 



12 miles northwest of Fort Laramie 

do do. . 

do do 

Laramie peak 

4 miles north of Fort Laramie .... 

Raw Hide butte 

do 

do 

Laramie hills....... 

do 



.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
-do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 



do 

Raw Hide butte. 
, do 



, do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

.......do. 

, do. 

, do. 

do. 

do. 

, do. 

do. 

do. 

, do. 

Black hills 



124 

Minerals and geological specimens — Continued. 



55 
59 
60 
61 
62 
63 
G4 
65 
66 
67 
68 
69 
70 
71 
72 
73 
74 
75 
76 
77 
78 
79 
80 
81 
82 
63 
84 
85 
86 
87 



89 
90 
91 
92 
93 
94 
95 
96 



it7 

98 
99 
100 
101 
102 
103 
104 
105 
106 
107 
108 
109 
110 



Hornblende elate 

Felspathic granite, pink 

Plates of mica from 59 , 

Quartz vein in chlorite slate.-.. 

Chlorite slate 

Trachyte 

Quartz veins in 63 

do 

Chlorite slate 

Hornblende rock, underlying tertiary series 

Schorl in quartz from clay slate 

do do .- 

Augite 

Quartz, with felspar 

Porphyritic trap, columnar 

do do , 

do do 

Trachyte , 

Vesicular trap , 

Trachyte 

Silicious limestone 

Porphyritic trachyte , 

Compact trachyte, with scales of mica 

do do. 

Gray basaltic trap ...... . . , 

Porphyritic trachyte 

do . 

Quartzite..... 

Gray trachyte 

Metamorphic sandstone 



]I. SEDIMENTARY ROCKS. 



Silurian and devonian. 



Potsdam sandstone, red, with Lingula antiqua. 

do gray, fine, with Obolm 

do porous, with Trilobites .. 

Metamorphic, conglomerate over granite 

...do.. . with cherty pebbles 

do do 

Argillaceous limestone, devonian 

Metamorphic conglomerate 



Carboniferous. 



Limestone, with spirifer 

Blue cherty limestone, with Spirvjera suhUlita 

.do do with corals 

..do do with Spirifer lineaiiis 

Rhyncondla mormoni . ... 

do do with Cyathophyllum.. 

.. .do ..do .. with Zaphrentis ...... 

do .do v!iihSyringapora.... 

do do . Poriies .. . . 

Yellowish do. over 98, with Spirifer rockymontana . . 

do do Spirifers cameratus and lineaius 

Cherty nodules in 98 

Arogoniie in 98 

Coarse, granular limestone, with crinoidal columns 



Black hills , 

do., 

do. 

do., 

, do., 

do. 

do., 

, do.. 



Raw Hide butte, west side 
do do 



Black hills 

do 

do 

Laramie hills 

Stone butte. Black hills . 

do do... 

do do... 

do do... 

do do... 

do do... 

Raw Hide butte . 

Stone butte, Black hills. 
Bear peak, Black hills . . 
do do... 



.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 



.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 



do.... 

do.... 

do 

Laramie hills 
do.... 



.do. 
.do. 
.do. 



.do. 
.do. 
.do. 



Black hills 

do. 

do. 

do. 



do.... 

do.... 

do.... 

do.... 

do.... 

do.... 

do.... 

do.... 

do.... 

Fort Laramie 



125 

Minerals and geological specimens — Continued. 



Blue, compact, limestone, Productus and Terehratula 

subtilUa 

do ...do .do corals 

, do .- do with Spirifer lineatus 

Yellowish cherty limestone, with Productus .. .. 

White limestone, with Spiriftr rockymoniana . .. 

Terebratula subtllita from 110 

Panopaea . .. 

Allorisma . . ...... 

Productus ... . . 

Spirifer cameraius . 

Terebratula subtilita.... 

Bdlerophon .. 

Chonetes .. .. . 

Chaetetes 



Pernio-carboniferous and permian. 



Fort Laramie 

do 

do 

Warm spring near Fort Laramie. 
Near Fort Laramie 



Near Tecama, Nebraska 

Bellevue, Nebraska 

do 



.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 



Black hills 
do. 



.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 



Arenaceous limestone, foliated with baktvellia . 
Red sandstone, soft, very fine grain, under 125 

Pink sandstone, over 126 

Limestone, (125,) with Orthoceratite 

do with Bellerophon 

.... do . .with Pleurotomania... 

,. do with Spirifer 

do with Allorisma \ Big Blue, Kansas Territory 

Yellow magnesiaa limestone, with Nautilus, 3Ionotis, 

Bakevellta, Myalina . . 

do compact, with Mytilus ... 

Magnesian limestone, with Monotis 

do with Avicula. 

Chertz rock, gray, with Avicula and Myalina 

do (Burch stone,) with criaoidal columns 

Sacarhoid gypsum, over 133 

Monotis from 136 

Blue limestone, porous, with fenestella , 

Cellular calcareous rock 

do do.... more compact , 

do do with spherical cavities . 

do do. ...more argillaceous . 



Jurassic. 



Smoky Hill fork 

Banks of Mo., south line of Neb. 

Big Cottonwood 

12 miles west Big Blue 

Black hills 

do 

Smoky Hill fork 

do 

Big Blue 

Smoky Hill fork 

do 

do 

Near Cottonwood creek 



Arenaceous limestone, light brown, with Avicula 
ienuicostata Black hills 

do bluish, over 146, with Avicula do. 

Ferruginous limestone, with Cypricardia ,...do. 

do red, with Avicula. . do. 

Yellow arenaceous limestone, with Serpula do. 

Limestone bored, with lithophagous mollusks do. 

Red marl, overlying 141, containing snowy gypsum do 

Snowy gypsum from 152 ! do 

Crystalline gypsum from seams in 152 do 

Fibrous gypsum do do do. 

Blue compact limestone, (fresh water,) in 158, con- 
taining Unio nucalis and Planorbis 

Arenaceous limestone, same as 150, containing pen- 
tacrinus, with serpula and ostrea attached to 
surfaces 

Yellowish argillo-arenaceous limestone, with os- 
trea. Upper Jurassic 

Gray shell limestone, containing Ammonites, Bele- 
mites, Sf-c, interstratified with 158 . . 



.do. 



.do. 
.do. 
.do. 

.do. 



126 

Minerals and geological specimens — Continued. 



160 
161 
162 



163 
164 
165 
166 
167 
168 

169 
170 
171 

172 
173 
174 
175 

176 

177 

178 
179 

180 
181 

182 
183 

184 
185 
186 
187 
188 
189 
190 
191 

192 

193 
194 
195 
196 
197 
198 
199 

200 
201 

2(12 
203 
204 
205 
206 



Snowy gypsum, with n.> stains, equivalent of 153.. 

Gypsum, with crystals of selenite 

Snowy gypsum . 



CRETACEOUS. 



Formation Ho. 1. 



Conglomerate and sandstone, with Unios 

Conglomerate 

do fine,wich Melanias and Cyclas 

Gray arenaceous limestone, with Melania and helix . 

Conglomerate, same as 165 .. 

Arenaceous limestone, (166,) with leaves of cred- 

neria, melanias, &fc . 

Indurated ferruginous clay, with melanias 

Ferruginous sand, with tmio danai 

Indurated clay, with Melanias nnd scales of Lepido- 

tus above 166 . 

Shell limestone containing Melanias 

Impure sandy lignite (stratum D of section) 

Shell limestone, same as 172 

Cream colored shale, burnt from over lignite beds. 
Compact argillaceous limestone, with Cijiherca oweni 

(marine,) beneath fresh water beds 

Ferruginous sandstone, with J'ellina subtorluosa..... 

Rough, gray, limestone, with Ostrea glabra 

Ferruginous sandstone, with Inoceramus peeienuis, 



upper marine strata 

Lignite, over 179 

Carbonaceous sand from decomposition of lignite 

bed over 179 

Impure shaly lignite, with selenite 

Limestone, with Cypris, lower part of formation 

No. 1 \ 

Silicified wood, ferruginous 

do coniferous 

Bone of saurian 

do or cetacian 

Dense ferruginous sandstone 

Quartzose sandstone, bluish 



Big Horn river . 



Near sources of Yellowstone 



Bad lands of Judith 

do 

do 

do 

do 



-do. 
.do. 
.do. 

.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
-do. 

.do. 
.do. 
.do. 

.do. 
.do. 



Rocky Mountain creek. 
Near Ammel's island .. 



Black hills, east base . 

do do . , 

do do .. 

do do.. 

do do -. 

Black hills, west base. 
....do do .. 



Conglomerate from junction of cretcaeous and 
carboniferous rocks 

Coarse ferruginous sandstone, with pebbles, over 
199 



Platte valley. 



Dark ferruginous sandstone over 192 

do containing much iron 

do do — do 

Feri'uginous sandstone - 

do fine grained 

Dark, coarse, sandstone, very ferruginous 

Red, ferruginous sandstone, with many species of 

dicotyledonous leaves 

do do 

Light gray quartzose sandstone, with balls of sul- 
phate of iron over 199 

do with dicotyledonous leaves 

Whitish puverulent sandstone over 199 

do fine grained under 199 

Indurated clay, bluish 

do yeliow 



.do. 
.d(i. 
.do. 
.do. 



Blackbird hill 

Mouth of Elk horn 
do , 



Black hills 



Black hills .... 

do 

Sioux City 

Blackbird hill.. 

do 

Decatur 



127 

Minerals and geological specimens — Continued. 



Indurated clay, yellow Deaatur. .. 

Ferruginous sandstone, with striated bivalves and 

Oytherea arenaria . Big Sioux. 

Indurated clay, with dicotyledonous leaves do. 

— do sand, fine, yellow, with leaves of salix ..| do. 



Ferruginous sandstone Mouth of Iowa creek 

, do do fine grained, with im- 
pressions of dicotyledonous leaves Mouth Big Sioux 

, do do with Solen dacotahenm do 

Lignite under 809 do 

Silicified wood, bored by teredo Big Sioux 

do do Blackbird hills 

, do do - — Smoky Hill fork 

do do i Republican fork 

Coarse, ferruginous sandstone, with leaves of 
Credneria Smoky hill 

Sandstone, very ferruginous do 



Cellular, ferruginous, rock do. 



Formation No. 2. 



Masses sulphuret iron, with sulphate Mouth of Vermillion 

Crystallized do do do 

do gypsum do 

do do ! do 

do in plates ' do 



Large crystals selenite in black clay do. 

, do do do do. 

Ferruginous shale, with remains of fishes do. 

do shell limestone do. 

Yellow clay, with gypsum _ do. 

Conglomerate, with green silieious pebbles do. 

do with shark's teeth do. 

Gray arenaceous limestone, with Cytherm orbiculala. do. 

do do with fish scales do. 

Dark gray indurated clay, with fish scales , 

Arenaceous limestone, (•234,) with Serpula , 

Conglomerate, with fish teeth 

Arenaceous limestone, gray, with Inoceramns proble- 
m&ticus I Black hills, west 



Black hills, east base 

Dixon's bluffs - 

do , 



Formation No. 3. 



Big Sioux 



Mouth James river. 

do 

do 



Durions hills . 



Soft, yellow, limestone, with Fnoceramus prohlematicxis 

Gray marl, with Oatrea crnvjeata, and fish remains 
(base of No. 3) , 

do do 

Scale of Cydocladus in 242 .. . 

Fibrous carbonate of lime, with Ostrea congesta at- 
tached to surface 

Yellow marl [ do 

do I Bijoux hills 

do lighter I do 

Crystalline carbonate of lime, seams in marl I do 

do greenish in marl do 

Black plastic clay, upper part of No. 3 Near Bijoux hills 

Shale, argillaceous, with fish remains over 250 : do 

...do calcined by combustion of 250. | do 



Formation No. 4. 
Blue clay, with Ptgclwceras mortoni Great bend of Missouri 



128 



irvnerals and geohgkal specimens — Continued. 



Yellow clay, with crystals of gypsum ...I Great bend of Missouri . 

Whitish alum clay, seams in 253 ' Bijoux hills 

Hyd. silicate of magnesia, masses in formation 
No. 4 do 

Crystals sulphate baryta - - do 

White aluminous earth in seams . — I do 

Aluminous clay (255) - | do.... 

Ferruginous concretions throughout F, No. 4 j do - 

Crystalline argillaceous limestone (Cone in cone) .| Shyenne river 

Crystals of selenite in clay beds ; Fort Pierre 

Selenite and fibrous carbonate lime ...! Mouth Shyenne 

Yellow clay, with selenite ...j 12 miles above Fort Pierre. 

Dark, argillaceous, shale, witb Iiwceramm [ Mouth of Cannon Ball river 

Blue concretionary limestone, with Rosidlaria 1 Long Lake, Missouri 

Indurated clay I do 

Decomposed shale (253) Fort Pierre. 

Brown hematite 

do moreearthy 

Dog tooth spar — 

Gray arenaceous limestone 

do with carbonized matter, and shells. 

Soft argillaceous shale 

Concretions of compact blue limestone, contain- 
ing great numbers of fossils 

do containing large crustacean (un- 

described) 

Crystallized carbonate of lime, yellow, forming 
nucleus of concretions. — 

Crystals of selenite 

Blue indurated clay, with fibrous gypsum 

Dove colored laminated shale 

Petrified wood bored by Teredo bisinuata 

" Cone in cone" (241) 

Indurated clay, with shells v { Grand river 

Soft micaceous sandstone, thin seam in clay bed ..' Fort Pierre 

Vertebra of Mososaurus .. . \ do ... 

Wood bored by Zylophaga stimpsoni Mussel shell river 

White aluminous clay Fort Lookout 



Big Shyenne 

do 

Mussel Shell river. 

Milk river .., 

Cannon Ball river. 
Yellow Stone river 



.do. 
.do. 



Forks of Shyenne. 

do 

do 

Grand river 



Cannon Ball river 



Formation Xo. 5. 



Yellow arenaceous limestone, with Venus 

do softer 

Yellowish calcareous sandstone, with Oyprina. 

do do decomposed . . 

Soft, fine, sandstone, with Rostellaria . . . 

Ferruginous sandstone, with Cytherea 

Silicified wood, with bark 

do bored by Teredo globosa.. .. 



A. lignite basin. 



Yellow arenaceous clay on cetaceous rocks 

Yellowish indurated clay, with fresh water shells 

over 296 

Gray sand, fine, over 297 

Coarse, gray, calcareous sandstone, with fossils... 

Soft argillo-calcareous shale, with fossil shells 

Ferruginous shale, with coniferous plants 

Dove colored sandstone, with eilicified wood 



Head of Little Missouri. 

do 

Cannon Ball river 

do 

— do 

do 

Long Lake 

do 



Long Lake 

do 

Top of Square butte. 

Thunder Butte 

do 

do 



129 

Minerals and geological specimens — Continued. 



Yellow indurated sand, with estuary shell of genus, 
Cyrena . 

Light colored indurated clay, base of section 

Dark carbonaceous clay, over 304 

Lignite, over 305 

Dark argillaceous shale, over 306 

Yellow indurated sand, with Paludina and Melania . 

Grayish indurated sand 

Dove colored calcareous shale, with Unios and other 
fresh water shells - 

Argillaceous limestone, with fossil plants 

Fine light colored marl, under lignite bed 

Lignite, bright and compact 

Drab indurated clay 

Light colored marl, with impressions of dicoty- 
ledonous leaves 

Earthy lignite 

Lignite 

do more impure 

Concretions sulphuret iron, common throughout 
tertiary series 

Septaria, spherical 

Carbonaceous indurated clay, charged with vega- 
table remains, fresh water, and land shells, Buli- 
mus, Physa, Pupa, &iC 

Mineralized wood 

Carbonized wood from lignite bed 

Light sandy marl 

Shell marl, containing fresh water shells 

Impure lignite 

Light colored, fine, clay, under lignite bed 

Brown shale, with vegetable impressions 

Silicious shale, containing much vegetable matter . 

Gray shell limestone, soft 

Carbonaceous clay, with Unio, Paludina, Sfc 

Coarse, gray shell, limestone 

Compact, bluish, limestone, with fresh water shells. 

Gray calcareous sandstone, with Unio, Paludina, Sfc 

Soft argillaceous limestone, with Paludina rochiformi 

Crystallized carbonate of lime in concretions 

Dove colored argillactous limestone, with impres- 
sions of ferns, over 315 

Brown calcareous shale, with Taxites 

Silicified wood 

do partially carbonized 

do do do 

do do do 

do do do 

do with cavities lined with drusy quartz 

Dove colored clay, metamorphosed by burning out 
of lignite beds . . 



Cherry creek 



Fort Clark 

do. 

do. 



...do do 

...do do 

. . . do -do 

...do do 



-.-.do. 



...do 



Brownish shale do 

Scoria, black, formed by . 

. . do . . . yellowish - . do 

- . do . . black compact 

. . do . . green vitreous 

. . do do do 

. . do . . red, very porous 

..do. -brown, very porous do do . 

Shal6 burned red, with vegetable impressions. 

do bright red do do .. 

do Vermillion, with gj'psum... 

9h 



Eed spring 

FortBerthold 

do 

do 

High butte. Little Missouri. 



Fort Union. 

do.. 

Yellowstone 
do.., 



do.. 

Fort Union. 



do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

Milk river 

do 

do 

Yellowstone 

Elk Horn prairie. 

Red spring 

Yellowstone 

Pardu river 

Fort Union 



do... 

Yellowstone 

do... 

do... 

do.-, 

do... 

do... 

Fort Union . 



Mussel Shell river 

do 

Yellowstone ...... 

do ,.. 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do , 



130 

Minerals and geologiecd specimens — Continued. 



Shale, burned, black ferruginous 

Calcareous pumice from burning of limestone. 



B. WHITE BIVER BASIN. 



Bed A. 



Red, sandy, clay, containing pebbles, base of TUan- 

oiherium bed..,.-.. 

Teeth of Titanotherium prouti ^ 

Coarse, whitish, sandstone, above 358 

, do concretionary 

Soft, whitish, calcareous sandstone, with scales of 



mica 

Greenish plastic clay 

do upper part 

Plates of chalcedony 

do 

do 

Fibrous carbonate lime - 

Dark chalcedony 

Magnesite . 

Calcareous concretion separating bed a from bed b. 

Bed B. 



Pinkish, indurated, marl 

Whitish do from over 372 . 

Pinkish calcareous concretion 

Decomposed marl from 372 and 373. .. 
,- do do with Oreodon. 



Bed D. 

Cream colored marl 

Silicious limestone, with fresh water shells, Planor- 

bis, Limnea, <Vc . 

Tufaceous, concretionary, limestone 

Cream colored marl, containing Oreodon 



Bed E. 



Soft, white, grit 

Conglomerate, above 381 

, do with granitic pebbles , 

Soft, white, sandstone, with Oreodon 

Calcareous conglomerate 

Conglomerate 

Calcareous concretions in marl, under 386 .., 

Sulphate baryta foliated crystals in 387 , 

Green silicious concretions in limestone, contain- 
ing fresh water shells , 

do do do.- 

Coarse, whitish, sandstone 

Conglomerate , 

Quartzose conglomerate - - 

White infusorial earth, base of bed e, local , 

do do do.. , 



Yellowstone 
do.. 



On Shyenne river . 
Old Woman's fork . 

Shyenne river 

do 



do.. 

do.. 

Sage creek. 
Bear creek. 

do.. 

do.. 

do.- 

do.. 

do.. 

do.. 



.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 



White river 



.do. 
.do. 
.do. 



do.... 

do...- 

do.... 

do.... 

Fort Laramie 
Bijoux hills... 

do.... 

do.... 



Medicine hills .. 

do 

Bad Land creek. 
Grand Stone hill 

do 

Running Water . 
Loup fork , 



Indurated marl, white 

Silicious tufa 

White marl 



Warren's fork . 
Niobrara river. 
Loup fork 



131 



MineriU and geological specimens — Continued. 



400 
401 
402 
403 
404 
405 
406 
407 
408 
409 
410 
411 
412 
413 
414 
415 
416 
417 
418 
419 
420 
421 
422 
423 



Whitish cherty limestone. 
White foliated limestone . 



do 

Niobrara river 



White tufaceous marl, containing fresh water shells 

Silicified wood 

do 

Siliceous sinter 

Carbonate of lime 

Ferruginous conglomerate 

Micaceous granite 

Hornblendic rock 

Limestone, with corals 

do with Spirifer 

do with Orihoeeratite 

do with Syringopora : 

Chalcedony 

Silicified wood 

Limestone, with red chert 

Concretions from yellow marl 

Siliceous sinter from springs 

Sand from sand hills 

Very fine, gray, sand from sand dune 

Prismatic iron ore 

Efflorescence on soil 



Loup Fork . .. 

Running Water . . . 
do 

Sage creek 

Bear Peak 

Yellowstone river . 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do----.... 

do 

do 

do 

Big Sioux 

Black Hills 

do 

Powder river 

Mouth Bigh Horn. 

Cannon Ball river. 



Dr. Newbery rendered me valuable assistance in making out the preceding catalogue. 



132 



MAMMALS. 

The mammals of the collection have already been examined by Pro- 
fessor Baird;, and most of the species determined. The collection con- 
tains skins, skeletons, and skulls of nearly all the larger mammals of 
the plains, with a large number of specimens of most of the smaller 
ones. I will here say a few words in regard to the present distribu- 
tion of some of the larger animals on the upper Missouri. Many of 
them are fast passing away, and in a few years must become extinct. 
The buffalo, which has been so important an agent in the preserva- 
tion of the Indians, is now gradually gathering into a smaller area, and 
although in the valley of the Yellowstone and along the upper Mis- 
souri thousands may yet be seen, they are annually decreasing at a 
rapid rate. In 1850 buffaloes were seen as low down on the Missouri 
as the Vermilion river, and in 1854 a few were killed near Fort Pierre, 
but at the present time none, except now and then a stray bull, 
are seen on the Missouri river below Fort Clark.* They are, how- 
ever, quite abundant at this time on the Platte river and along the 
valley of the Smoky Hill Fork of the Kansas. Probably at this time 
all the larger animals, as buffalo, elk, deer, antelope, bighorn, and 
beaver, are more abundant in the valley of the Yellowstone than in 
any other portion of the upper Missouri. 

Descending the Yellowstone river in the summer of 1854 I saw, for 
for the distance of 350 miles, the prairies on both sides of the river 
covered with herds of buffalo, and on the sand bars large numbers of 
elk, deer, and antelopes. Elk and white-tailed deer {Cervus leucurus) 
are quite abundant even in the northern parts of Iowa, but the black- 
tailed deer {Cervus macrotis) is seldom seen below Fort Pierre. It is 
found chiefly in the most rugged portions of the country, in the region 
of the Black Hills or in the vicinity of the mountains. The intermin- 
able ravines of Sage creek and the Shyenne river are noted places for 
them. The antelope is seldom observed below Fort Pierre. It is, 
however, the most abundant animal in the Sioux country, and con- 
fined to the open praries. The bighorn, or mountain sheep, {Ovis 
montana,) is quite abundant in the almost inaccessible regions known 
as the Mauvaises Terres or Bad Lands, but are not hunted much by 
the Indians for food. The beaver are increasing very rapidly, and 
many of the mountain streams literally swarm with them. Since the 
days of the trapper are over, and the prices of their fur has become 
so reduced, the inducements to hunt them are not very great, and 
they are allowed to multiply undisturbed. Their flesh is eaten to ' 
some extent by the Indians and traders, and in the absence of other 
meat is considered quite a delicacy. The raccoon is seldom seen 
beyond the frontier. A few have been killed in the valley of White 
river, but they seldom pass up the Missouri above latitute 42°. The 
following is a list of the mammals contained in the collection and 
now deposited in the Smithsonian Institution : 

'■'These animals occupy very different localities indifferent years and different seasons. — 
Lieutenant Warren. 



133 

1. SoTi^ex Haydeni, Baird, (n. s.) — Hayden's Shrew. — Fort Pierre 
to Fort Union, Nebraska Range on the Missouri river, from latitude 
44.20 to 48.00. — This small species of shrew is quite rare in Nebraska. 
It is seldom seen alive, though sometimes found dead along river 
banks. A single specimen was caught at Fort Pierre in the autumn 
of 1856, and a second one at Fort Union, near the mouth of the 
Yellowstone. Three specimens were secured. 

2. Blarina brevicauda, G-ray. — Short-tailed Shrew. — Illinois to Ne- 
braska. — A single specimen of this species was obtained near Fort 
Berthold, on the Missouri, in lat. , Ion. ; very rare. 

3. Scalops argentatus, Aud. & Bach, — Silvery Mole. — Detroit to 
Fort Riley, and south to Prairie Mer Rouge? Range in lat. from 
42.20 to Louisiana? in long. 83 to 97. — One specimen of this beauti- 
ful species was collected near the mouth of Big Sioux river. I do not 
think it occurs high up on the Missouri river. 

4. Lynx ru/us, Raf. — Wild Cat. — Atlantic to Pacific. Upper Mis- 
souri to the Gila river. Not on the Rio Grande ? — The skins of this 
animal are very often brought to the different trading posts on the 
upper Missouri by the Indians, though seldom seen by the traveller. 
There is no portion of the country bordering on the Missouri river, 
or its tributaries, where it does not exist to a greater or less extent. 
The Canada Lynx, {Lynx canadensis,) has also been observed in sev- 
eral localities by the traders of the country. 

5. Ganis occidentalis var. griseo-albus. — White and Gray Wolf. — 
North America generally? Oanis occidentalis Yar. nubilus. — Dusky 
Wolf. — Missouri river to the Pacific. — This species with its numerous 
varieties, is exceedingly abundant throughout the region of the upper 
Missouri, above latitude 43°. It is most abundant where the bufialo 
range, and subsists mostly upon them. Their skins are made an ar- 
ticle of trade, being valued at one dollar a piece. 

6. Canis latrans, Say. — Coyote ; Prairie Wolf. — Fort Riley, Kansas, 
to the Pacific, and upper Missouri to the Rio Grande of Texas. — This 
animal is much smaller, and the skins sell for only half the price of 
the C. occidentalis. It is exceedingly abundant throughout the upper 
Missouri country, extending down into the settlements, where they 
often do much mischief to the farmers. 

7. Vulpes macrourus, Baird. — Prairie Fox. — Upper Missouri to 
Plains of Columbia, 0. T. — This is much the finest animal of the 
genus in this country. The skins are remarkable for the thickness 
and beauty of their fur. The different varieties, as silver, cross, and 
black fox, are well known among the traders, and are much valued. 
A skin of the silver variety is a great prize, often selling for a hun- 
dred dollars. 

8. Vulpes velox, Aud. & Bach. — Kit Fox; Swift Fox. — Plains west 
of Missouri to the Cascade mountains of Oregon. — Like the prairie or 
barking wolf this animal is fond of wandering down among the settle- 
ments and committing his depredations upon the farmers. It is much 
hunted by the traders ; but its skin is not very valuable, averaging 
only about twenty-five cents per skin. It is very abundant around 
prairie dog villages, and subsists to a great extent upon the in- 
habitants. 



134 

9. Puiorius longicauda, Kich. — Long-tailed Weasel. — Upper Mis- 
souri and Platte. (Carlton House, H. B. T. Rich.) — Not uncommon 
throughout the northwest, though seldom seen by the traveller. Its 
skin is highly prized by the Indians, who use it for making articles of 
dress, tobacco pouches, and for other ornamental purposes. 

10. Lutra canadensis, Sab. — American Otter. — Northern parts of 
the United States to Florida, and west to the Rocky mountains. — Not 
uncommon in the streams that flow from the north into the Missouri. 
I cannot ascertain that it has been seen above the mouth of the Nio- 
brara river on the Missouri. The only specimen obtained by our 
party was taken in a beaver trap in the Niobrara, about eighty miles 
above its mouth. Otter skins are imported into the country every 
year by the traders, and are prized very highly by the Indians for 
ornamental purposes. 

11. Mephitis mephitica. — Common Skunk. — United States, east of 
the Missouri plains and north of Texas. — Very common throughout 
the upper Missouri country. 

12. Taxidea americana, Waterh. — Missouri Badger. — Iowa and 
Wisconsin to the Pacific coast, and from Arkansas to 49 N. lat. — (To 
58 N. lat. , Rich.) — This animal is not rare, though not very abundant 
on the Missouri. It seems to be of very little economical value, ex- 
cept for food to the starving Indian. 

13. Frocyon lotor, Storr. — Common Raccoon. — Massachusetts to 
Florida, and west to Fort Kearney. Not in southern Texas ? — Very 
abundant in the vicinity of Council Bluffs, where the skin is made a 
considerable article of trade with the Indians. It is not found high 
up on the Missouri. The highest point that I have observed it was- 
near the mouth of the Niobrara river, though I have been informed 
that they are sometimes seen in the valley of White river. 

14. Ursus horibilis, Ord. — Grizzly Bear. — Plains of upper Missouri 
to the Rocky mountains, and along their base, thence to the coast of 
California, (not of Oregon or Washington ?) — This formidable animal 
is still quite abundant toward the sources of the Missouri. At the 
present time it is very seldom, if ever, seen below Fort Pierre. But 
one skin was taken by our party. 

15. Sciurus ludovicianus , Custis. — Western Fox Squirrel. — Missis- 
sippi valley. — Very abundant about Council Bluffs. Gradually be- 
comes rare, and ceases near the mouth of White river. 

16. Sciurus carolinensis , Gm. — Gray Squirrel ; Black Squirrel. — 
Eastern United States to the Missouri river. — Two specimens of this 
squirrel were taken, one near Fort Leavenworth, and the other near 
the mouth of the Platte. It is seldom, if ever, seen above this point. 

17. Sciurus fremontii, Towns. — Mountain Gray Squirrel. — A speci- 
men obtained at Laramie Peak is supposed to belong to this species, 

18. Sciurus hudsonius, Pallas. — Red Squirrel ; Chickaree. — Labra- 
dor (lat. 56*^) to Mississippi ; and in the United States from the At- 
lantic to the Missouri river. — Several specimens supposed to be 
identical with this species were collected in the Black Hills, and is 
quite abundant in the oak woods of that region. 

19. Tamias quadrivittatus, Rich. — Missouri Striped Squirrel. — 
Upper Missouri to Rocky mountains, and west to the Cascade Range. 



135 

Along the Rocky mountains as far south as Fort Staunton, New 
Mexico. Lat. 33° 30'. — Very common in the " Bad Lands" and rocky 
portions of the upper Missouri. Seldom^ perhaps never, seen below 
Fort Pierre. 

20. SpermopMlus franklini, Eich. — Gray Gopher. — Northern Illi- 
nois and Wisconsin, and to Minnesota and Saskatchewan. — One 
specimen of the above species was taken near the mouth of the Loup 
Fork of the Platte. Quite rare. 

21 . SpermopMlus tridecem-lineatus , Aud. & Bach. — Striped Gopher ; 
Prairie Squirrel. — Eastern Michigan to the plains of the Missouri, and 
south to Red river, Arkansas, and Fort Thorn, N. M. — Very abun- 
dant on all the prairies of the northwest. 

22. Spermopliilus Toivnsendii, Bachman. — Townsend's spermophile. 
Rocky mountains to the north. Several specimens were collected near 
Fort Laramie. 

23. Cynomys ludovicianus. — Prairie Dog. — Milk river and upper 
Missouri ; west towards the Rocky mountains ; south to Red river ; 
southwest to the Upper Rio Grande, and a short distance into 
Sonora? — Very abundant from the mouth of the Niobrara to the 
mountains ; found in great rtumbers in the valley of the Yellowstone 
and along the Missouri, above Fort Union. 

24. Arctomys fiaviventer , Bachman. — Yellow-footed Marmot. — 
Black Hills, Neb. — This animal is very rare, but one specimen having 
been secured on the upper Missouri. The skins of only two indi- 
viduals are in the museum of the Smithsonian Institution. 

25. Castor canadensis, Kuhl. — American Beaver. — Throughout the 
entire area of North America. — The history of this animal is more 
interesting than that of any other on the upper Missouri. In the 
palmy days of the trapper the beaver became very scarce in the west ; 
but since the price of their fur has become so low as to render the 
business of trapping them an unprofitable pursuit, they have multi- 
plied to an enormous extent, so that all the little streams flowing 
from the mountains literally swarm with them. Their skins, how- 
ever, are still a considerable article of trade. 

26. Geomys hursarius, Itich. — Pouched or Pocket Gopher. — Mis- 
souri to Minnesota and Nebraska. — Very abundant on the rich bot- 
toms around Council Bluffs and Big Sioux, where they do much mis- 
chief in the gardens. One specimen was taken near the mouth of Big 
Sioux, and a second on the Niobrara. 

27. Thomomys rufescens, Maxim. — Fort Union Gopher. — Fort 
Pierre to Fort Union, on the Missouri. — This gopher seems to take 
the place of the Geomys hursarius from Fort Pierre to the mountains. 
Two specimens were collected at Fort Union, and one at Fort Ran- 
dall, on the Missouri. 

28. Jaculus hudsonius. — Jumping Mouse. — Nova Scotia, (Labrador, 
Pennant,) to southern Pennsylvania, and west to the Pacific ocean. — 
Very rare. Only two specimens were obtained near Fort Union. 

S9. Perognatlms Jlavus, Baird. — Upper Missouri, along eastern 
slopes of Rocky mountains to Sonora and Chihuahua ; and along the 
Tiio Grande to Matamoras. — Collected on the Loup Fork during the 
summer of 1857. 



136 

30. Dipodomys ordii, Woodhouse. — Kangaroo Rat. — Platte river, 
along the eastern slope of the Rocky mountains, into Durango and 
Coahuila, Mexico, — A single specimen was taken on the Niobrara 
river. 

31. 3Ius musculus, Linn. — Common Mouse. — North America gene- 
rally. (Introduced.) — Abundant at all the fur trading posts on the 
Missouri. 3Ius rattus or common rat is also introduced. 

32. Hesperomys sonoriensis, Leconte. — Upper Missouri, and Rocky 
mountains to El Paso and Sonora. — Very abundant near Fort Union 
and along the Yellowstone. Twenty-five specimens collected. 

33. Hesperomys leucogaster. — Missouri Mouse. — Plains along the 
upper Missouri. — Very rare ; but two specimens secured ; one near 
Bijox Hills, the other on Vermilion prairie, and are the only speci- 
mens in the museum of the Smithsonian Institution. 

34. Neotoma cinerea. — Rocky Mountain Rat. — Eastern slope of 
northern Rocky mountains and upper Missouri. — Not rare, but seldom 
captured ; usually found among the dry trees on the river bottoms. 
The only specimen secured was taken at Fort Sarpy, near the mouth 
of the Big Horn river, on the Yellowstone. 

35. Arvicola Uaydeni, Baird, (n. s.) — Fort Pierre, Nebraska. — But 
one specimen of this species has ever been detected. 

36. Lepus campesh'is, Bach. — Prairie Hare. — Upper Missouri and 
Saskatchewan plains to the Cascade Range of Oregon. — This hare, 
though not extremely abundant, is not uncommon in the northwest, 
from the mouth of Niobrara river to the mountains. Four specimens 
were collected on the Yellowstone. 

37. Lepus sylvaiicus, Bach. — Gray Rabbit. — From Massachusetts 
throughout the United States, as far as Indianola, Texas ? and west 
to the Missouri, as far as Fort Union, Nebraska. — Found all along 
the Missouri river to the mountains, but mostly confined to the wooded 
bottoms of the rivers and streams. Eight specimens are in the collec- 
tion of the expedition. 

38. Lepus artemisia, Bach. — Sage Hare. — Regions west of the Mis- 
souri to the Rocky mountains, and to the Cascade mountains of Ore- 
gon, along the Columbia on the north, and to the city of Chihuahua 
on the south. — Abundant in the Bad Lands and on the Sage plains 
of the upper Missouri river. Five specimens were obtained by the 
expedition. 

39. Cervus canadensis, Erxl. — American Elk. — Northern portions 
of United States to upper Missouri, and west to the Pacific. Found 
in the Alleghenies of Pennsylvania and Virginia. (North to 57^, 
Rich.) — Most abundant in the valley of the Yellowstone and along 
the Missouri river above Fort Union. Not rare, though less abundant 
as low down the Missouri as Council Bluffs. The collection contains 
two pairs of skins, two of skeletons, with numerous separate skulls, 
and about twenty pairs of antlers. 

40. Cervus leucurus, Douglass. — White-tailed Deer. — Upper Mis- 
souri and Platte to the Columbia river and Washington Territory. 
Western Texas and New Mexico ? — Very abundant along the riter 
bottoms ; most common from Council Bluffs to Fort Pierre. Foic 
skins, with numerous separate skins and antlers, were obtained. 



137 

41. Cej'vus macrotis, Say, — Mule Deer. — Upper Missouri and Platte 
to the Cascade Range, (head of Des Chutes river.) Oregon Territory. 
Not extending to the Pacific. Headwaters of Arkansas. — Much more 
abundant on the upper Missouri than the Cervus leucurus. Four 
skins, two skeletons, and about thirty separate skulls and horns, 
were collected. 

42. Antilocapra americana, Ord. — Prong-horn Antelope; Cabree. — 
Plains west of Missouri, from the lower Rio Grande to the Saskatche- 
wan, and west to the Cascade and coast range of the Pacific slope. — 
This beautiful and fleet animal is found everywhere on the open 
grassy plains, from the mouth of the Niobrara river to the mountains. 
Our collection contains eight skins entire, one skeleton, and a large 
number of skulls. 

43. Ovis montana, Cuvier. — Bighorn ; Mountain Sheej). — Broken 
ground on the upper Missouri and Platte. Rocky mountains generally, 
as far west, at least, as Coast and Cascade mountains of the Pacific 
slope. — Very abundant in the rugged and inaccessible portions of the 
upper Missouri, especially the " Bad Lands." 

44. JBos americanus, Gmelin. — American Buffalo. — Formerly found 
throughout nearly the whole of North America, east of the Rocky 
mountains. Now confined to the plains west of the Missouri and 
along the slopes of the Rocky mountains. 

45. VespertiUo pruinosus , Say. — All over the United States east of 
the Rocky mountains. 

46. VespertiUo noctivagans, Leconte. — Common throughout the 
country east of the Rocky mountains. 

47. VespertiUo novaboracensis , Gmelin. 



BIRDS. 

No. of specimens. 

1. — Cathartes aura, (Linn.) ^llig. Turkey Buzzard. All of 

North America, except the Arctic regions 1 

2. — Falco (Falco) anatum, Bonaparte. Duck Hawk. North 

America, east of the Rocky mountains 1 

3. — Falco (Hypotriorchis) cohimbarius, Linn. Pigeon Hawk. 
Temperate North America, Mexico, Central Amer- 
ica, Northern South America 2 

4. — Falco (Gennaia) polyagrus, Cassin. Prairie Falcon. 

Western North America 3 

5. — Falco (Tinimnculus) sparverius, Linn. Sparrow Hawk. 

Entire continent of America 5 

6. — Accipiter mexicanus, Swains. Western North America 3 

7. — Buteo swainsoni, Bonap. Swainson's Buzzard. North- 
ern and Western North America 4 

8. — Buteo bairdii, Hoy. Baird's Buzzard. Northern and 

Western North America 3 



138 

No. of specimens. 
9. — Buteo (Poecilopternis) horealis, (Gmelin,) Vieill. Red- 
tailed Hawk. Eastern North America; fur countries; 
Cuba, Jamaica 3 

10. — Ardiihuteoferrugineus^ (Licht.) Gray. California Squir- 
rel Hawk. Western North America 1 

11. — Circus hudsonius, (Linn.) Vieillot. Marsh Hawk. All 

of North America and Cuba 4 

12. — Bubo vlrginianus^ (Gmelin,) Bon. Great Horned Owl. 
The whole of North America. Runs into varieties, 
atlanticiis 2Mcificus, ardicus, magellanicus 1 

13. — Otus ^vUsonianns, Lesson. Long-Eared Owl. The whole 

of temperate North America 3 

14. — Brcvchyotus cassinii, Brewer. Short-Eared Owl. The 

whole of temperate North America; Greenland; Cuba 2 

15. — Syrrdum nebulosimi, (Forster,) Gray. Barred Owl. 

Eastern North America; Fort Tejon, Cal. 1 

16. — Athene hypugaea, Bonap. Burrowing Owl. From Mis- 
sissippi river to the Rocky mountains 7 

17. — Conurus carolinensis, (Linn.) Kuhl. Parakeet. South- 
ern and southwestern States, as far west as the Mis- 
souri 12 

18. — Coccygus americamis, (Linn,) Bonap. Yellow-billed 

Cuckoo. Eastern United States to the Missouri plains 6 

19. — Coccygus erytliropWialmus, (Wils.) Bon. Black-billed 

Cuckoo. United States to the Missouri plains 6 

20. — Picus ( Trichopicus) viUosus^ Linn. Hairy "Woodpecker. 
Northern and western regions; var. major, mediiis, 
minor 6 

21. — Picus {Trichopicus) jjuhescens, Linn. Downy Wood- 
pecker. Eastern United States, towards the eastern 
slope of the Rocky mountains 3 

22. — Picoides dorscdis, Baird. Striped three-toed Wood- 
pecker. Laramie peak. Rocky mountains 1 

23. — Sphyrapicus varius, (Linn.) Baird. Yellow-bellied 
Woodpecker. Atlantic ocean to the eastern slopes of 
Rocky mountains, Greenland 8 

24. — Sphyrapicus thyroideus, (Cass.) Baird. Brown-headed 
Woodpecker. Cascade and coast range of California 
and Oregon 1 

25. — Centurus carolinus, (Linn.) Bon. Red-bellied Wood- 
pecker. North America, from Atlantic coast to the 
eastern slope of the Rocky mountains 3 

26. — 3M€inerpes erythrocephalus, (Linn.) Sw. Red-headed 
Woodpecker. North America, from the Atlantic to 
the eastern slope of the Rocky mountains 9 

27. — Ilelanerpes torquatus, (Wils.) Bonap. Lewis' Wood- 
pecker. Western America, from Black Hills to Pacific 6 



189 

No. of specimene; 

28. — Colaptes auratiifi, (Linn.) Sw. Flicker. Eastern North 
America to the eastern slopes of the Rocky mountains; 
Greenland 8 

29. — Colaptes mexicanus, Swain. Red-shafted Flicker. West- 
ern North America, from the Black Hills to Pacific • • 21 

29^ — Colaptes hyhridus, Baird. Cross between two preced- 
ing. Upper Missouri 

30. — Cheatura pelasgia, Stephens. Chimney Swallow. East- 
ern United States to the slopes of the Rocky moun- 
tains; Bijox Hills, 0. T. 1 

31, — Antrostomus nuttalU, (Aud.) Cassin. Nuttall's "Whip- 
poor-will. High Central Plains to the Pacific coast • • 2 

32. — Chordeiles 2Jopetue, (Yieill.) Baird. Night Hawk. North 

America generally 5 

33. — Ceryle (3Iegaceryle) alcyon, (Linn.) Boie. Belted King- 
fisher. Entire continent of North America. 2 

34. — T'yranmis carolinensis, (Linn.) Baird. King Bird. East- 
ern North America to Rocky mountains 9' 

35. — Tyrannus verticalis, Say. Arkansas Flycatcher. West- 
ern North America, from the High Central Plains to 
the Pacific • 19 

36. — Sayormsfnscus, (Gm.) Baird. Pewee. Eastern North 

America 1 

37. — Sayornis sayus, (Bon.) Baird. Say's Flycatcher. Up- 
per Missouri river and Central High Plains westward 
to the Pacific and south to Mexico 5 

38. — Contopus richardsonii, (Sw.) Baird. Short-legged Pe- 
wee. High Central Dry Plains to the Pacific; Rio 
Grande valley southward to Mexico; Labrador 2 

39. — Empidonax mimmus, Baird. Least Flycatcher. East- 
ern United States to Fort Bridger 6 

40. — Turdus (Turdus) imistelinus, Gm. Wood Thrush. 

Eastern United States to Missouri 1 

41. — Turdus (Turdus) fuscescens, Stephens. Wilson's 

Thrush. Eastern North America to the Missouri; 
north to fur countries 1 

42. — Turdus (Turdus) sivainsonii, Cab. Olive-backed 

Thrush. Eastern North America to Fort Bridger; 
south to Mexico and Peru; north to Greenland; acci- 
dental in Europe and Siberia 3- 

43. Turdus (Tiirdus) cdiciae, Baird. Gray-cheeked Thrush. 

Mississippi region to the Missouri 4 

44. — Turdus (Flanesticus) migratorim, Linn. Robin. Con- 
tinent of North America to Mexico 3^ 

45. — Sialia sialis, (Linn.) Baird. Blue Bird. Eastern North 

America to west of Missouri river; Fort Laramie • • • • 9 

46. Sialia arcfica, Sw. Rocky Mountain Blue Bird. Upper 
Missouri to Rocky mountains range, and south to 
Mexico; rare on the coast of California 9' 



140 

No. of specimens 

47. — Begulus calendula, (Linn.) Licht. Ruby-crowned Wren. 

United States, from Atlantic to Pacific 4 

48. — Anthus ludovicianus, (Gm.) Licht. Tit-lark. North 

America generally; Greenland; accidental in Europe 1 

49. — Mniotilta varia, (Linn.) Vieill. Black and White 
Creeper. Eastern North America to Missouri river; 
south to Guatemala. Var. longirostris, Baird. Flo- 
rida 6 

50. — Panda americana, (Linn.) Bonap. Blue yellow-backed 
Warbler. Eastern North America to Missouri river; 
south to Guatemala 1 

51. — Geotldypis trichas, (Linn.) Cab. Maryland Yellow- 
throat. North America, from Atlantic to Pacific • • • • 7 

52. — Icferia longicauda, Lawr. Long-tailed Chat. High 
Central Plains of United States to the Pacific; south 
into Mexico 12 

53. — Hehninthophaga celata. (Say,) Baird. Orange-crowned 
Warbler. Mississippi river to the Pacific; south to 
northern Mexico 2 

54. — Seiurus aurocapUlus, (Linn.) Sw. Golden-crowned 

Thrush. Eastern North America to the Missouri • • • • 8 

55. — Seiurus noveboraceiisis, (Gm.) Nutt. Water Thrush. 
Eastern United States to the Missouri, and south to 
Guatemala, perhaps to Brazil 2 

5Q. — Dendroica coronata, (Linn.) Gray. Yellow Rump. 
Eastern North America to the Missouri plains; strag- 
glers seen on Puget's Sound 5 

57. — Dendroica audibonii, (Towns.) Baird. Audubon's 
Warbler. Pacific coast of United States to Rocky 
mountains; south to Mexico. 1 

58. — Dendroica pennsTjlvanica, (Linn., Baird. Chestnut- 
sided Warbler. Eastern United States to the Mis- 
souri 1 

59. — Dendroica striata, (Forster.) Baird. Black Poll War- 
bler. Eastern North America to the Missouri high 
plains; Cuba; Greenland 7 

60. — Dendroica aestiva, (Gm.) Baird. Yellow Warbler. 
United States, from Atlantic to Pacific; south to 
Guatemala and West Indies 15 

61. — Dendroica maculosa, (Gm.) Baird. Black and Yellow 
Warbler. Eastern United States to the Missouri; 
south to Guatemala 1 

62. — Setophaga ruticilla, (Linn.) Sw. Redstart. Eastern 

United States to Fort Bridger; West Lidies in winter 7 

63. — Pyranga ludoviciana, (Wils.) Bon. Louisiana Tanager. 

From the Black Hills to the Pacific; south to Mexico. 2 

64. — Hirundo horreorum, Barton. Barn Swallow. North 

America, from Atlantic to Pacific 3 



141 

No. of specimens. 

65. — Uirundo hmi/rons, Say. Cliff Swallow. North Amer- 
ica, from Atlantic to Pacific 4 

66. — Cotyle riparia, (Linn.) Boie. Bank Swallow. North 

America generally 2 

67. — P rogne purpurea, (Linn.) Boie. Purple Martin. North 

America generally 13 

68. — Ampeliscedrorum, (Yieill.) Baird. Cedar Bird. North 

America generally; south to Guatemala 2 

69. — Myiadestes toivnsendii, (Aud.) Cab. Townsend's Fly- 
catcher. United States, from Rocky mountains and 
Black Hills to the Pacific; south to the borders of 
Mexico 1 

70. — Colly rio bo realis. (Bon.) Baird. Great Northern Shrike. 
Northern regions, from Atlantic to Pacific; in winter 
south, through most of the United States 1 

71. — Collyrio excuhitoroides, (Sw.) Baird. White-rumped 
Shrike. Missouri plains and fur countries to Pacific 
coast; eastward into Wisconsin, Illinois, and Michi- 
gan (?) 6 

72. — Vireo gilvus, (Vieill.) Bon. Warbling Flycatcher. 

Atlantic to Pacific coast of United States; var. 
stoamsonii; Columbia river 6 

73. — Vireo (Lanivireo) soUtarius, (Wils.) Vieill. Blue- 

headed Flycatcher. United States, from Atlantic to 

the Pacific 2 

74. — Mimus carolinensis, (Linn.) Gray. Cat Bird. Easterii 

United States to Fort Bridger 3 

75. — Oreoscoptes montanus, (Towns.) Baird. Mountain 
Mocking Bird. Rocky mountains, from Fort Bridger 
south to Mexico; along valley of Gila and Colorado; 
San Diego, California 1 

76. — Harporhynclius rufus, (Linn.) Cab. Brown Thrush. 
Eastern North Ameri' a to Missouri river, and per- 
haps to High Central Plains, unless replaced by a 
long-tailed variety, (H. Longkauda. ) 6 

77. — Salpindes obsoletus, (Say.) Cab. Rock Wren. High 
Central Plains, through the Rocky mountains to the 
Cascade range, (but not on the Pacific coast ?) Fort 
Tejon 6 

78. — Clstotliorus (Tehnatodytes) palustris^ (Wils.) Cab. 
Long-billed Marsh Wren. North America, from At- 
lantic to Pacific; north to Greenland 2 

79. — CistoihoriLS (Cistothorus) stellaris, (Licht.) Cab. Short- 
billed Marsh Wren. Eastern United States to the 
Loup Fork of Platte 1 

80. — Troglodytes aedon, Vieill. House Wren. Eastern 
United States to the Missouri, or to the High Central 
Plains 1 



No. of specimens. 

■81. — Troglodytes parkmanni, Aud. Parkman's Wren. West- 
ern America, from the High Central Plains and 
upper Missouri to the Pacific 13 

•82. — Sitta canadensis^ Linn. Red-bellied Nuthatch. North 
America to the Rocky mountains, probably also to 
the Pacific 3 

•83. — Polioptila caerulea^ (Linn.) Sclat. Blue-G-ray Fly- 
catcher. United States, from Atlantic to Missouri, 
and on the southern border from the Gulf of Mexico 
to the Coast mountains of California, south to Guate- 
mala 1 

84. — Loplioplianes hicolor, (Linn.) Bon. Tufted Titmouse. 
Eastern North America to the Missouri river, or else 
replaced there by a L. missuriensis 1 

■85. — Parus septentrionalis, Harris. Long-tailed Chickadee. 
Missouri river to the Rocky mountains, or else re- 
placed there by P. albescens 4 

•86. — EremopMla cormcta, (Wils,) Boie. Sky Lark. Every- 
where on the prairies and desert plains of North 
America; Atlantic States in winter. A smaller va- 
riety on the western plains 12 

•87. — Oarpodacus purpureus, (Gm.) Gray. Purple Finch. 
North America, from Atlantic to the High Central 
Plains 1 

•88. — Chrysomitris tristis, (Linn.) Bon. Yellow Bird. North 

America generally 5 

89. — Chrysomitris pinus, (Wils.) Bon. Pine Finch. North 

America, from Atlantic to Pacific 2 

50. — Gurvirostra americana, Wils. Red Crossbill. North 
America generally, coming southward in winter. 
Resident in the mountains of Pennsylvania. Per- 
haps var. mexicana in Rocky mountains 2 

91. — Gurvirostra leucoptera, (Gm.) Wils. White-winged 
Crossbill. Northern parts of North America gen- 
erally 2 

t)2. — Plectrophanes (Gerdrop)hanes) ornatiis, Towns. Chest- 
nut-collared Bunting. Plains of the upper Missouri • • 5 

93. — Plectrophanes (Gentrophanes) melanomus, Baird. East- 
ern slope of the Rocky mountains; Mexico, on the 
table-lands 3 

94. — Plectrophanes ( Rhynchophanes) maccoiomi, Lawr. East- 
ern slopes of Rocky mountains ; from Fort Thorn, 
N. M., as far east as the Black Hills, north of the 
Platte • 3 

95. — Passercidus savanna, (Wils.) Bon. Savannah Sparrow. 

Eastern North America to the Missouri plains 5 

9G. — Pooecetesgramineus, {(j(XB..)^Q\xd. Grass Finch, Uni- 
ted States, from the Atlantic to the Pacific; or else 
one species to the High Central Plains, and another 
from this to the Pacific. 10 



14^ 

No. of specimens. 
97. — Cotm'niciclus passe7'{nus^ (Wils.) Bon. Yellow- winged 
Sparrow. Eastern United States to the High Cen- 
tral Plains (Loup Fork); also along the valley of 

Gila and Colorado 12 

98. — Coturmcidus hensloivi, (And.) Bon. Henslow's Bunt- 
ing, Eastern United States as far north as Wash- 
ington; westward to the Loup Fork of Platte • • • • 1 
99. — Chondesfes grammaca, (Saj.) Bon. Lark Finch. From 
Wisconsin and the prairies of Michigan to Pacific 
coast; south to Texas and Mexico on the plains • • • 19 

100. — ZonofricMaleucophrys, (Forster,) Sw. White-crowned 
Sparrow. United States, from Atlantic to the Rocky 
mountains, where they become mixed up Avith Z. 
gamheJii; Greenland 3 

101. — ZonotricMa gamheUl, (Nutt.) Gambel. Rocky moun- 
tains to the Pacific coast; Fort Bridger 2 

102. — Zonotriclda querula, (Nutt.) Gamb. Harris' Finch. 

Missouri river, above Fort Leavenworth 2 

103. — ZonotricMa alhicoIUs, (Gm.) Bon. White-throated 

Sparrow. Eastern United States to the Missouri 13 

104. — Junco oregonus, (Towns.) Sclat. Oregon Snow Bird. 
Pacific coast of the United States to the eastern 
side of the Rocky mountains; stragglers as far east 
as Fort Leavenworth in winter, and Great Bend of 
Missouri 2 

105. — Junco canicejjs, (Woodh.) Baird. Rocky mountains, 
from Black Hills to Fort Bridger and San Francisco; 
mountains of New Mexico 2 

106. — Junco hyemalis, (Linn.) Sclat. Snow Bird. Eastern 
United States to the Missouri, and as far west -as 
Black Hills 3 

107. — Spizella 7nonficola, (Gm.) Baird. Tree Sparrow. East- 
ern North America to the Missouri ; also on Pole 
creek and Little Colorado river, New Mexico • • • • 2 

108. — Spizella pmsilla, (Wils.) Bon. Field Sparrow. Eastern 

North America to the Missouri river 5 

109. — Spizella socialis, (Wils.) Bon. Chipping Sparrow. 

North America, from Atlantic to Pacific 2 

110. — Spizella pallida^ (Sw.) Bon. Clay-colored Bunting. 
Upper Missouri river and High Central Plains to 
the Saskatchewan country 5 

111. — 3Ielospiza (3Ielospiza) melodia, (Wils.) Baird. Song- 
Sparrow. Eastern United States to the High Cen- 
tral Plains 2 

112. — Melospiza(Helospiza)lincolnii^ (Aud.) Baird. Lincoln's 
Finch, United States, from Atlantic to Pacific, and 
south through Mexico to Guatemala 9 

113. — Melospiza ( Helospiza) imlustris, (Wils.) Baird. Swamp 
Sparrow, Eastern United States, from the Atlantic 
to the Missouri 1 



144 

No. of specimeiB. 

114. — Calamospiza hicoJor, (Towns.) Bon. Lark Bunting. 
High Central Plains to the Rocky mountains; south- 
westerly to valley of Mimbres and Sonora 5 

115. — Euspiza americana, (Gm.) Bon. Black-throated Bunt- 
ing. United States, from the Atlantic to the bor- 
der of the High Central Plains 17 

116. — Guiraca (Goniaphea) hidoviciana, (Linn.) Sw. Rose- 
breasted Grosbeak. Eastern United States to the 
Missouri plains; south to Guatemala 4 

117. — Guiraca (Goniaphea) melanocepJiala, Sw. Black-headed 
Grosbeak. High Central Plains, from Yellowstone 
to the Pacific; table lands of Mexico 5 

118. — Guiraca caernJea^ (Linn.) Sw. Blue Grosbeak. More 
southern United States, from Atlantic to Pacific; 
south to Mexico 3 

119. — Cyanosplza amoena, (Say,)Baird. Lazuli Finch. High 

Central Plains to the Pacific 6 

120. — Cardinalisvirginianus, Bonaparte. Red Bird. More 
southern portions of the United States to the Mis- 
souri; probably along valley of Rio Grande to Rocky 
mountains 1 

121. — Pipilo erytJtropldkahnm, (Linn.) Vieill. Ground Robin. 

Eastern United States to the Missouri river 9 

122. — Pipilo arcticus, Sw. High Central Plains of upper 

Missouri, Yellowstone and Platte; FortBridger- • • 15 

123. — Pipilo cJiIorurus, (Towns.) Baird. Blanding's Finch. 
Valley of Rio Grande and Gila. Rocky mountains 
north to the South Pass; south to Mexico 3 

124. — DoUcliomjx oryzivorus, (Linn.) Sw. Boblink. Eastern 

United States to Fort Bridger, Utah 3 

125. — Ilolotltrus pecoris, (Gm,) Sw. Cow Bird. United States, 

from the Atlantic to California; Fort Bridger- • • • 7 

126. — Agelaius phoeniceus, (Linn.) Vieill. Swamp Blackbird. 

United States, from Atlantic to Pacific 9 

127. — XanfJiocephcdus icterocepihaliis, (Bon.) Baird. Yellow- 
headed Blackbird. Western America, from Texas, 
Illinois, Wisconsin, and North Red river to Cali- 
fornia; south into Mexico; Greenland 2 

128. — St urnella magna, (Linn.) Sw. Meadow Lark. Eastern 
United States to the High Central Plains; south to 
Mexico; Cuba ? 3 

129. — Sturnella neglecta, And. Western Lark. Western 
America, from High Central Plains to the Pacific; 
east to Pembina, and perhaps to Wisconsin 22 

130. — Icterus spurius, (Linn.) Bon. Orchard Oriole. United 
States, from the Atlantic to the High Central 
Plains; probably throughout Texas; south to Gua- 
temala 12 



145 

No. of specimens. 

131. — Icterus haltimore, (Linn.) Daudin. Baltimore Oriole. 
From Atlantic coast to the High Central Plains, 
and in their borders; south to Guatemala 9 

132. — Icterus bullockii, (Sw.) Bon. Bullock's Oriole. High 
Central Plains to the Pacific; rare on upper Mis- 
souri; south into Mexico 1 

133. — Scolecophagusferrugineus, (Gm.) Sw. Rusty Blackbird. 

From Atlantic coast to the Missouri 1 

134. — Scolecophagus cyonocephalus, (Wagl.) Cab. Brewer's 
Blackbird. High Central Plains to the Pacific; 
south to Mexico; Pembina, Minnesota 5 

135. — Quiscalus versicolor, (Linn.) Vieill. Crow Blackbird. 

Atlantic to High Central Plains; Fort Bridger--- 7 

136. — Corviis carnivorus, Bartram. American Raven. Entire 
continent of North America; rare east of the Mis- 
sissippi 4 

131.— Corvus americanus, Aud. Common Crow. North 
America to the Missouri region; also on the coast 
of California? (Not found on the High Central 
Plains?) 5 

138, — Picicorvus columbianus, (Wils.) Bon. Clark's Crow. 
From Rocky mountains to Pacific; east to Fort 
Kearney 6 

139. — Pica hudsonica, (Sabine.) Bon. Magpie. Arctic re- 
gions of North America; the United States, from 
the High Central Plains to the Pacific, north 
of California 15 

140. — Cyanura macrolophus, Baird. Long-crested Jay. Cen- 
tral line of Rocky mountains to the table lands of 
Mexico • •. 2 

141. — Perisoreus canadensis, (Linn.) Bon. Canada Jay. 
Northern Auaerica into the northern parts of the 
United States, from Atlantic to Pacific; further 
south in Rocky mountains 9 

142. — Ectopistes migratoria, (Linn.) Sw. Wild Pigeon. 

North America to High Central Plains 3 

143. — Zenaidura carolinensis, (Linn.) Bon. Common Dove. 
Throughout United States, from Atlantic to Pa- 
cific ; Cuba 1 

144. — Tetrao ohscurus, Say. Dusky Grouse. Black Hills of 
Nebraska to Cascade mountains of Oregon aiid 

Washington 6 

145. — Centrocercus nropha.siauus, (Bon.) Sw. Cock of the 

Plains. Sage plains of the northwest 4 

146. — Pedioecetes pliasianellus, (Linn.) Baird. Sharp-tailed 
Grouse. Northern prairies and plains, from Wis- 
consin to Cascades of Oregon and Washington • • • 5 

10 H 



146 

No. of specimens. 

147. — Oupidoma cupido^ (Linn.) Baird. Prairie Hen. West- 
ern prairies and plains, within the limits of the 
United States, east of the Rocky Mountains; south- 
east to Calcasieu, Louisiana; east to Pocono moun- 
tains; Pennsylvania, Long Island, and eastern 
coast 3 

148. — Ortyx virginianus^ (Linn.) Bon. Partridge; Quail. 

Eastern United States to the High Central Plains- 1 

149. — Grus americanus^ (Linn.) Ord. Whooping Crane. 

Florida and Texas; stragglers in Mississippi valley 1 

150. — Ardea herodias, Linn. Great Blue Heron. Through- 
out the entire territory of the United States; 
West Indies 1 

151. — Botaurus lentiginosus, Steph. Bittern. Entire con- 
tinent of North America 2 

152. — Chanadrins voci/ems, (Linn.) Cassin. Killdeer. North 
America to the Arctic regions; Mexico; South 
America 5 

153. — Aegialitis (Oxyclms) voci/erus, (Linn.) Cassin. Kill- 
deer. North America to the Arctic regions ; Mexico; 
South America 4 

154. — Aegialitis (Oxyechus) montamis, (Towns.) Cassin. 
Mountain Plover. Western North America; Fort 
Bridger and Fort Tejon 5 

155. — Aegialitis (Aegialeus) melodus, (Ord.) Cab. Piping- 
Plover. Eastern coast of North America; Ne- 
braska; Louisiana 5 

156. — Recnrvirostra americana, Gm. American Avoset. All 

of temperate North America; Florida 2 

157. — Plmlaropus ivilsonii^ Sab. Wilson's Phalarope. En- 
tire temperate regions of North America; New 
Mexico 7 

158. — Philoliela minor, (Gm.) Gray. American Woodcock. 

Eastern North America 1 

159. — GaUi'iuujo icilsonii, (Temm.) Bon. English Snipe. En- 
tire temperate regions of North America; Cali- 
fornia 4 

160. — Tringa (Adodroma^) ivilsonii, Nuttall. Least Sand- 
piper. Entire temperate North America 1 

161. — Tringa (Adodromas) honapartii, SchlegeL North 

America, east of the Rocky mountains 2 

162. — Ereunetes jxtrijicatns, 111. Semipalmated Sandpiper. 
Entire temperate regions of North America; South 
America; varying much in size 4 

163. — Gambetta melanoleuca, (Gm.) Bon. Tell-tale. Stone 
Snipe. Entire temperate regions of North Amer- 
ica. Mexico 2 



147 



164. — Rftyacopliilus solitariufi^ (Wils.) Bon. Solitary Sand- 
piper. Entire temperate regions of Nortli Amer- 
ica. Mexico 

1G5. — Tringoides macidarius^ (Linn.) Gray. Spotted Sand- 
piper. Entire temperate North America; Oregon. 
Accidental in Europe 

166. — Aetiturus hartramius^ (Wils.) Bon. Field Plover. 
Eastern North America; South America. Europe- 

167. — Limosa fedoa, (Linn.) Ord. Entire temperate regions 
of North America. South America 

168. — Ntimeniufi (Pliaeopus) horealis, (Forst.) Latham. Es- 
quimaux Curlew. Eastern and northern North 
America 

169. — Poi'zana (Porzana) Carolina^ Vieill. Common Rail. 
Entire temperate regions of North America 

170. — Fulica americana^ Gmelin. Coot. Entire temperate 
regions of Nortli America 

171. — Cygims huccinator, Rich. Trumpeter Swan. West- 
ern America, from the Mississippi valley to the 
Pacific 

172. — Bernida (Leucoblepharon) canadensis, (Linn.) Boie. 
Canada Goose. Whole of North America. Acci- 
dental in Europe 

173. — Anas hoschas, Linn. Mallard. Entire continent of 
North America and greater part of Old World • • • • 

174. — Dajda acuta, (Linn.) Jenyns. Sprig-tail; Pin-tail, 
Whole of North America and Europe 

175. — Nettion crecca, (Linn.) Kaup. English Teal. Europe; 
accidental on the eastern coast of the United States, 

176. — Querquedida discors, (Linn.) Steph. Blue-winged 
Teel. Eastern North America to Rocky mountains. 
Not yet found on the Pacific coast, nor in Europe • 

177. — Apatida clypecda, (Linn.) Boie. Shoveller. Conti- 
nent of North America; abundant in Europe 

178. — Mareca americana, (Gm.) Stephens. Baldpate; Amer- 
ican Widgeon. Continent of North America; acci- 
dental in Europe 

179. — Aix sponsa, (Linn.) Boie. Summer Duck. Continent 
of North America • 

180. — Erismaturaruhida, (Wils.) Bon. Ruddy Duck. Whole 
of North America; abundant throughout the inte- 
rior 

181. — Mergus araericamis, Cass. Sheldrake. Whole of 
North America 

182. — Lophodytes cncidlabus, (Linn.) Reich. Hooded Mer- 



ganser. Whole of North America 



183. — LariLS delaicarensis, Ord. The Ring-billed Gull. 
Arctic America; Texas to Labrador; western rivers; 
northwest coast , . 



148 

No. of specimens. 

184. — Ster7ia frenata, G'dmhcl. The Least Tern. Texas to 

Labrador; western rivers 3 

185. — Hydrochelidon plumhea, (Wils.) The Short-tailed 
Tern. Texas to the New Enghmd States; Missis- 
sippi rivers and tributaries; fur countries 1 

186. — Podiceps californicus, Heermann. California Grebe. 

Western North America 2 



FISHES. 

A series of the principal fishes inhabiting the Missouri and its tribu- 
taries, were collected and preserved in alcohol, and are now deposited 
in the museum of the Smithsonian Institution. A portion are still 
undescribed, and of those already determined. Dr. Girad has very 
kindly furnished me the following- list: 

1. Sfizostedionboreus, Grd. Fort Union, Mo. 

2. Gasterosteus inconstans, Kirtl. Yellowstone river. 

3. AmUodon grunniens, Rafin. Milk river. 

4. Pimelodus olivaceus, Grd. Yellowstone river. 
■5. Noturusflavus, Rafin. Yellowstone river. 

'6. Carpiodes damalis, Grd. Fort Pierre. 

7. Ptychostomus Haydeni, Grd. Yellowstone river. 

8. Acoimis griseus, Grd. Platte river. 

9. Acoimis lactarius, Grd. Milk river. 

10. Catostomus Sucklii, Grd. Milk river. 

11. Pimeplmles fasciatus, Grd. Milk river. 

12. Hyhognatlms argyritis, Grd. Milk river. 

13. Hyhognatlms Evansi, Grd. Fort Pierre. 

14. Argyreus didcis, Grd. Sweet water. 

15. Pogonichthys communis, Grd. Milk river. 

16. Gobio gelidus, Grd. JNIilk river. 

17. Leucosomus dissimiUs, Grd. Milk river. 

18. Leucosomus macrocepJialus, Grd. Fort Pierre. 

19. Nocornis nebrascensis, Grd. Sweet water. 

20. SemotUus speciosus, Grd. Platte river. 

21. Plargyrus boivmani, Grd. Sweet water. 

22. Myodon iergism, Lesu. Fort Sarpy, Yellowstone. 

23. Scaphirhynchus pJcdyrJiynchus, Baird. Upper Mo. 

24. Polyod on folium, Lacep. Fort Pierre. 



REPTILES. 



A large collection of reptiles was made from all parts of the upper 
Missouri, and it is probable that the following list represents quite 
fully that portion of the Nebraska fauna. The species have been 



149 

identified by Professor Baird and Mr. R. Kennicott, and the speci- 
mens are deposited in the museum of the Smithsonian Institution. 

1. Trionyx. Yellow-stone river. 

2. Emys elegans. Yellow-stone river. 

3. Emys. Mouth Powder river. 

4. Cistudo. Mouth Powder river. 

5. CrofaJus confluentus^ Say. Yellow-stone river. 

6. Crotalopliorus fergeminus, Holb. Yellow-stone river. 

7. Entainia sirfalis, var. parietalis, B. & G. Loup Fork. 

8. Entainia. Sand Hills. 

9. Nerodia sijjedon, B. & G. Yellow-stone river. 

10. Heterodon nasicus, B. & G. Sand Hills of Loup Fork. 

11. Pituoplds sayi, B. & G. Sand Hills of Loup Fork. 

12. Amphiholus sayi. Fort Benton, on Missouri river. 

13. Bascanion fiaviventris. Head of Loup Fork. 

14. CMorosoma vernalis. Yellow- stone river. 

15. Scehphorus consobrinus. 

16. Scelophonts graciosus. * 

17. HolbrooTxia macidata. 

18. Holbrookia douglassi. 

19. Cnemidoplioms sexlineatus. 

20. Plestiodon lepfogrammiis. 

21. Plestiodon multivirgatum. 

22. Plestiodon inornatum. 

23. Plestiodon septentrionalis. 

24. Rana hcdecina. 

25. Bufo americanus. 

26. Bufo cognatm. 

27. Bufo woodhousi. 

28. Siredon. 

RECENT MOLLUSCA. 

An interesting series of recent fluviatile and land Mollusca were 
secured during the several expeditions from various portions of the 
upper Missouri. The fresh water shells were very kindly examined 
by Mr. Isaac Lea, the celebrated conchologist, of Philadelphia. In 
some remarks before the Philadelphia Academy in regard to the above 
collection, and one obtained by Mr. Kennicott from the Red river of 
the north, Mr. Lea says : 

" It is not to be understood that either of these collections, made 
under adverse circumstances, and at times of great personal danger, 
should be full representatives of this branch of the fauna of these 
countries. But they are sufficient to prove that zoological life, so far 
as represented by molluscs, is nearly, if not quite the same, as that 
of the Ohio river basin, as well as that of the Missouri river and a 
part of the lower Mississippi and Red river of the south. The know- 
ledge of a part of the species from these remote districts proves tons 
the wide spread distribution of the same species, as we find every onto 
of them in the Ohio river at Cincinnati, Marietta, and Pittsburg, and. 



150 

this is the more remjarkablo, as the waters of the Red river of the 
north are embraced in a difterent system of drainage, flowing as they 
do into Hudson's bay at about 52° north latitude. Here is seen an 
immense area of country producing in its waters nearly the same life 
as regards the molluscs, a fact highly interesting to the zoologist." 

To Mr, W. G. Binney were transmitted the land shells, which were 
examined by him Avith great care. I quote the following remarks 
from his letter: "These shells are all of value, as they form the first 
contribution to our knowledge of the species found in those regions. 
They are, however, for the most part alluvial. Succinea Haydeni is the 
only perfectly fresh species, the animal being preserved in alcohol." 

' ' Helix costata was found in myriads, probably the contribution of 
many small streams above. Of the previously known species it is the 
most interesting, having been noticed previously in few localities and 
small numbers. If any argument were needed to establish the point 
of H. mhmta (Say) being identical with the European H. j^^dchella 
(Mull.) it might be found in the fact of the ribbed variety being also 
found in this country." 

The following catalogue comprises all the freshwater and land 
shells known to us on the upper Missouri: 

FLUVIATILE SHELLS. 

1. Unio alatiis, Say. Big Sioux river. 

2. Unio levississiinvs^ Lea. Big Sioux river. 

3. Unio lutcolus^ Lam. " " 

4. Unio asperimus, liC'cX. " " 

5. Unio rectus, Lea. " " 

6. Unio elegcms, Lea. James river. 

7. Unio zizzag, Lea. White Earth river. 
8^ Unio miadontoides, Lea. James river. 

9. Magaritana complanata., Lea. Fort Clark, in Missouri. * 

10. Anadonta Fermsaciana, Lea. White river, Nebraska. 

IL Jjymncct elodes, Say. Mouth Big Sioux river. 

12. Lymnea nuttaUiana, Lea. " " 

13. Lynmea humilis, Say. " " 

14. Lymnea Haydeni, hea.. " " 

15. Lymnea Kirtknidiana, Lea. " " 

16. Lymnea umhrosa, Say. Grindstone creek, Nebraska Territory. 

17. Lynmea I uhricoides, Lea. " " 

18. Lymnea FJiiladeljjMca, Lgh '' " 

19. Planorhis bicarinatus, Say. Mouth Big Sioux river. 

20. Planorhis trivolvis. Say. " ' ' 

21. Planorhis lent us, Say. " " 

22. Planorhis iMrv us. Say. " " 

23. Planorhis campanulatus, Say. " " 

24. Physa heterostroj)ha. " " 
2b. Physa Integra? R'SlU. " 

26. Physa elongata. Say. " " 

27. Physa ampularia, Say. " " 



151 

28. Psidium — ? Grindstone creek. 

29. Gydas—? 

30. Daphnia—? 

31. Ammcola 2)orata, Say. Fort Bertliold, 

32. Ammcola lapidaria, Say. ' ' 



LAND SHELLS 

33. Helix minuscula, Binney. Council Bluffs, Nebraska Territory. 

34. Helix lineafa, Say. " " 

35. Helix striateUa, Anthony. Council Bluffs, Nebraska Territory. 

36. Helix in/lecta, Say. " ' " 

37. Helix Jiirsuta, ^ay. " " 

38. Helix solitaria, Say. " " 
Sd. Helix alternafa, ^ay. " " 

40. Helix elevafa, Say. " " 

41. Helix/cdlax, Say. " ' " 

42. Helix concava, Say. " " 
4:3. * Helix ligei'a, Say. " " 

44. Helix profunda, Say. Near Fort Leavenworth, Kansas Territory. 

45. Helix mult ilineata, Say. " " 

46. Helix monodon, Rackett. " " 

47. Helix imlchella, Mull. " " 

48. Helix costata, MuW. " " 

49. Helix arhorea, Say. Drift on the Missouri, near Fort Berthold. 

50. Helix cheresina, Say. " " 

51. Helix electrina, Gould. '• " 

52. Helix cooperi, (new spec.,) Binney. Black Hills, Nebraska Ter- 

ritory. 

53. Fupa nehraskana, (new spec.) W. G. Binney. Fort Berthold, 

Nebraska Territory. 

54. Pupahlandi, (new spec.,) AV. G. Binney. Fort Berthold. 

55. Pupa armigera, Say. " 

56. Pupa i^entodon, Say. Council Bluffs, Nebraska Territory. 

57. Pupa modesta, Say. " " 

58. Pupa hadia, A.<\.'Am'ti. " " 

59. Biilimus lubricus, Mull. Fort Berthold, on Missouri. 

60. Succinea venusta, Say. Yellowstone. 

61. Succinea retusa, Lea. " 

62. Succinea Hay deni, (new spec.,) W, G. Binney. Yellowstone. 

63. Succinea Uneata, (new spec.) W. G. Binney. Fort Union and 

Yellowstone. 

64. Succinea Nuttalliana, Lea. Fort Union. 

65. Succinea ohliqua, Say. Fort Berthold, Nebraska Territory. 



152 



BOTANY. 

The collection of recent plants from the upper Missouri is very 
large and numerous in species. Comparatively few of them have 
been determined and their names presented in this list. The complete 
catalogue, with the necessary remarks and descriptions of new species, 
will appear in the final report. 

The vegetation of Kansas and the southern and southeastern 
portions of Nebraska is luxuriant in the highest degree. The broad 
bottom prairies of the Missouri, from Council Blutfs to the mouth of 
the Niobrara, are of inexhaustible fertility, sustaining a vegetation 
variable in its character and of enormous growth. The upland prairies 
possess a soil composed of yellow marl, well adapted to agriculture 
and grazing. All that portion of Nebraska which borders upon the 
Missouri, for one hundred to one hundred and fifty miles into the 
interior, is already settled to a great extent, and the traveller sees in 
prospective many of the finest farms in the west. The beautiful valley 
of the Platte cannot be surpassed for fertility of soil and the variety 
and luxuriance of its vegetation. Scarcely a section of land can be 
seen at the present time that is not already occupied by the courageous 
and persevering pioneer, and made to yield most abundant crops. 
Sufiicient timber occurs along the banks of ravines and streams for all 
economical purposes. After passing above latitude 43°, the soil 
becomes less fertile, climate much drier, and vegetation less luxuriant. 
The whole countr}^, though well adapted for the purposes of pasturage, 
is not well suited for agriculture, except in comparatively few localities. 
There is very little timber but that which skirts the streams, and 
consists for the most part of cottonwood, elm, ash, and box wood. 
Reaching the mountains, as the Bear's Paw, Snowy, Girdle, Black 
hills, or Laramie hills, an inexhaustible supply of pine timber is 
found, with many other varieties of trees common to the northern 
regions. The numerous broad valleys in the Black hills possess a very 
fertile soil and abound in springs of pure water, and the time cannot 
be far distant when this region as well as the country around Fort 
Laramie will be settled by a thriving population, and the vast forests 
of pine rendered serviceable to the Avants of man. 

That there is a marked improvement in the character of the country 
as we approach the mountains has already been noticed in published 
reports. The valley of the Yellowstone river, after passing the 
mouth of the Big Horn, is spoken of by both traders and Indians as 
quite fertile, abounding with excellent timber, fine clear springs of 
water, and a luxuriant vegetation. The Crows who now possess this 
region regard it as the finest country in the world. The immense 
beds of gypsum, of the Jurassic formation, along the eastern slope 
of the Rocky mountains, some of wliich are twenty feet in thickness, 
Avould furnish an inexhaustible supply of that excellent fertilizer. 

Much might be said in regard to the influence of soil, climate, 
geological structure, &c., upon the vegetation of the upper Missouri, 
as well as the geographical distribution of species; but time will not 



153 

permit, though many facts have been gathered bearing upon these 
points. These will appear with the more complete catalogue when 
the final report is published. 

The following meteorological notes were taken at Fort Pierre and 
vicinity in the spring of 1855, and though very brief may prove of 
some interest: 

March 7. — Weather fair; grass starting up fresh and green near 
Black hills. Grasshoppers and ants quite active. Antelope returning 
to the open prairies from their winter home in the north. 

March 8. — Weather very fine and warm. Saw common striped 
snake, [Eutainia parietalis.) 

March 9. — SaAV red-headed woodpecker, {Melanerpes erythrocej^ha- 
??r.9, ) and in company with it a beautiful black glossy woodpecker 
about the same size, [Melanerpes torquatns.) 

March 10. — Saw two fine plants on the south side of Bear Peak, 
six hundred feet above the level prairie around it. One of them 
Anemone patens, was in blossom, the other was just coming into 
bloom. 

The ice broke up in the Missouri river March 6th, as far as Fort 
Clark, lat. 47°. Then came several days of stormy weather, during 
which the river was frozen over a second time so firm as to sustain 
heavily loaded teams. The ice again broke up on the 22d for about 
the same distance up the Missouri. At Fort Union the ice did not 
yield until the 3d of April. 

Ajpril 9. — Four species of umbeliferous plants in bloom ; heavy 
frost during the night, so that ice formed upon the little pools an inch 
in thickness; grasshoppers quite active and abundant. 

April 10. — Cold ; some snow. 

Ajrril 11. — Fair weather ; a strong breeze blowing though quite 
warm. A small species of Carex in blossom. Saw yellow-shafted 
flicker, (CW«7:)fe9 a ?o'af ?/.§,) and meadow lark, [SturneJla neglecfa.) At 
night the frogs commenced a gentle croaking, for the first time this 
spring. 

Apiril 12. — Various kinds of insects quite abundant; common garter 
snake, (E.parietaUs,) killdeer, [Charadrhis foc|'/er?65,) geese and ducks 
abundant ; American elm (Ulmiis americana,) in full bloom. 

Ajrril 13. — Saw a large flock of swans, [Cygnus hucclnator ;) a beau- 
tiful Ranunculus in bloom, {R. glaherrimus.) The long-billed curlew 
(Nurnemus longirostris,) quite abundant running on the upland prairie. 

Ap}ril 16. — The 13-lined squirrel {Spermophilus triclecem lineatus,} 
quite abundant on the high prairie. 

April 20. — Saw to-day, birds : wild geese, {Anser er?/^/ryojj«.§,) king- 
bird, (Tyrannus crinifus,) robin redbreast, Turdus migratorius,) (a few 
robins Avere seen near Fort Pierre, April 1st,) the meadow lark, flicker, 
killdeer, turkey buzzard, {Ccdhartes aura,) mourning dove, {Ectopistes 
carolinensis,) common cowbird, (Molothrus ^^ecom,) very abundant; 
also a gull (Larus /ranMinii,) w^as seen on the river. The following- 
plants were in bloom : Astragalus caryocarpus, Shepherdia argentea, a 
species of Scdix, Populus angulata, and a fine bluebell, Mertensict 
virginica. 



154 

April 23. — Red winged blackbird {Agelaius phoeniceus,) abundant. 
Primus americana in bloom ; Symphoricarpus occidentalis and Artemisia 
in full foliage. 

May 6. — Saw blue heron, (Ardea herodias ;) Cornus stoloniferus in 
bloom. , 

3Iay 7. — Kingfisher [Ceryle alcyon,) seen on the Teton river. 

3Iay S. — SaAv cliff swallow (Cotyle riparia :) also a large rattle- 
snake (Crotalus confiuentus ;) Castileia sessiliflora in full bloom. 

3Iay 9. — Senecio aureus, a species of Salix, and a Juncus in full 
bloom. 

3Iay 10. — In the valley of White river the trees are in full foliage, 
and the bottom and upland prairies are covered with a rich green 
carpet of grass, and multitudes of plants are now in blossom. 3Ial- 
vastrum coccineum. just coming into bloom. 3Iammolaris nutfaUi and 
Allium steUatum are in full bloom. 

3Iay 12. — Rammculus aquatilis in bloom. At this time, so many 
birds and flowers, strange to me, have made their appearance that I 
cannot indicate them. Spring has fairly arrived, and summer is 
approaching. During the month of May considerable rain fell, so 
that the streams were much swollen. But for six or eight months 
past we have had very little rain, not more than one or two inches. 
All the vegetation was parched with drought. 

The ' ' June rise ' ' is said, by the mountaineers, to commence in- 
variably at the time when the roses are in bloom. This year the 
roses were in blossom June 1st, though I saw some in flower May 14th 
in the White river valley. The rise in the waters of the Missouri 
commenced at Fort Pierre, June 11th, 4 inches the first day, 5 inches 
the second, 18 inches the third, 4 to 8 inches the fourth, and after- 
ward falling gradually. This is usually called by the mountaineers 
the " big rise," and is due to the melting of the snows, which accu- 
mulate during the winter in the ravines and valleys of the mountains 
near the sources of the Missouri. There was comparatively little 
snow in the mountains last Avinter, and there has been very little rain 
during the spring, consequently the rise this year is quite small. 

June 1. — Yucca angustifolia, Polygcda cdba, Opuntia missouriensis, 
are in full bloom. The cacti bear the most beautiful blossoms of any 
of the plants of the prairie. 

The principal part of the plants enumerated in the following cata- 
logue were identified by the distinguished botanist, Dr. George Engel- 
mann, of St. Louis, Missouri. AfewAvere determined by Dr. Torrey, 
and the remainder by the writer. A good collection of mosses, 
lichens and fungi Avas obtained, but the species have not yet been 
studied, though they will be ready for the final report. It will be 
seen therefore that no department of the geology and natural history 
of the upper Missouri has been neglected in our explorations. 

1. Clematis Virginiana, Linn. Very abundant from the mouth 

of the Missouri to Council Bluffs. 

2. Clematis ligusticifolia, Nutt. Fort Pierre to the mountains. 

Very abundant about Fort Union; also at Fort Laramie, head 
of the Platte. 



155 

3. Pulsatilla patcm, D. C. This plant is called by the Indians 

the harbinger of spring-. I saw it on the south side of 
Bear Peak, March 9, 1855, just coming into bloom. It is 
found quite abundantly in the White river valley; also in 
the sand hills of Loup Fork. 

4. Anemone Pennsylvanica, Linn. Abundant from the mouth of 

the Missouri to the mountains, though most common below 
latitude 43^. 

5. Anemone Caroliniajia, Walt. Quite common around Council 

Bluffs to Niobrara river. 

6. Anemone cylindrica, Gray. This plant is quite rare; only a 

few individuals Avere seen near the mouth of the Big Sioux 
river, and on Loup Fork. 

7. Eanunculus repens, var 3Iarylandicus, Torr. and Gray. Low, 

wet places on the Upper Missouri. 

8. Ranunculus Pennsylvanicus^ Linn. Council Bluffs; Niobrara; 

Platte valley. 

9. Ranunculus recurvatus, Poir. Mouth of the Missouri to Nio- 

brara river; also sparingly in White river valley. 

10. Ranunculus ahortivus, Linn. Wet and sandy places to Nio- 

brara; sparingly to the mountains. 

11. Rammculns scelerat7(s, Linn. Not rare throughout the upper 

Missouri country. 

12. Ranunculus glaberrimus, Hook. The only locality in which I 

ever saw this plant was dt Grindstone Hills, near Bad Lands, 
where it was in bloom on the 9th of April. 

13. Ranunculus cymbalaria, Pursh. Seen on the Yellowstone 

and Missouri. 

14. Ranunculus aquatilis, Linn. Very abundant in the White 

river valley, in the streams, and little lakes. 

15. Myosurus minimus^ Linn. Missouri bottoms, opposite St. 

Joseph's; also on the upland prairie, near Fort Pierre. 

16. Aquilegia Canadensis, Linn. Does not extend above Council 

Bluffs or the Big Sioux. 

17. Isopyrum bifernafum, Torr. and Gray. Seen sparingly as far 

up the Missouri as the mouth of the Platte. 

18. DelplLinium tricorne, Mich. Extends to the mouth of the Big- 

Sioux; range to Niobrara, in latitude 43°. 

19. Beljohiniumazurewn, Mich. Abundant on the open prairies to 

the mountains. 

20. DelplMwnn virescens, Nutt. Fort Pierre. 

21. Tliallctrum cornuti, Linn. Not rare to mountains. 

22. Thalictrum clioicum, Linn, Abundant to Niobrara river. 

23. Hydrastis Canadensis, Linn. Found only in the carboniferous 

limestone region to Council Bluffs ; perhaps rarely to Big 
Sioux river. 

24. Actea rubra, Bigelow. Council Bluffs. 

25. Asimina triloba, Dunal. Common Papaw. Extends up the 

Missouri to the mouth of the Bio- Sioux river. 



156 

26. Menispermum Canadensis, Linn. Most abundant in the lime- 

stone regions to Council Bluffs; seen rarely on wooded 
banks to the Yellow-stone. 

27. Berheris aquifoUum, Pursh. A very abundant shrub in the 

Laramie range of hills and Black Hills. 

28. Podophyllum peltatum, Linn. Abundant along the lower part 

of the Missouri river, gradually ceasing at the mouth of the 
Platte. 

29. Nelumheum luteum, Willd. Lower portion of the valley of 

the Platte, and on the broad, wet bottoms about Omaha 
city. It is noAv quite rare on account of the great use of 
both roots and seeds for food, by the Omaha, Otoe, and 
PaAvnee Lidians. 

30. Nyniphea odorafa, Sit. Found by Dr. Cooper in Kansas. 

3L Argemone Ilexicana, Linn. Found only at Bellevue, Ne- 
braska Territory; fine yellow flowers. 

32. Argemone Jdsjyida, Gray. Bad Lands, White river, Loup 
Fork, Fort Laramie. 

38. Samjuinaria Canadensis, Linn. Rich woods about Council Bluffs. 

34. Corydalis aurea,, Willd. Not seen on the bottoms to moun- 

tains. 

35. Dicentra cuccidlaria,J). C. Li shady woods to mouth Big Sioux. 

36. Nasturtium ptalnstre, D. C. Not uncommon to mountains. 

37. Nasturtium ohtusum, Nutt. On the upper Missouri and Yellow- 

stone. 

38. Nasturtium siniiatum, Nutt. Fort Clark, Upper Missouri. 

39. Nasturtium sesilijlorum, Nutt. Along Missouri. 

40. Nasturtium limosum, Nutt. Along low bottoms near to Council 

Bluffs. 

41. Dentaria laciniata, Muhl. Shady woods around Council Bluffs. 

42. Nasturtium calycinum, Engelmann nov. sp. 

Annuum erectum seu diffusum, hirsutulum ; folis caulinis anguste 
oblongis sinuatis seu subpinnatifidis basi auriculata arete sessilibus 
vel semi amplexicaulibus; racemis confertifloris demum elongatis; 
pedicellis flore flavido et silicula ovoidea acuta parva hispidula cum 
stylo gracilis vix longioribus; calyce persistente. 

Sandy bottoms of the Yelloicstone river, Fort Sarpy to Fort Union. — 
In aspect as well as in the style, (fully a line long on a silicle 1^ line 
in length,) this species resembles some vcsicariae, but the numerous 
seeds are those of a nasturtium. The stem is about a foot high, often 
much branched and diffuse. The ovate lanceolate acutish sepals 
commonly persist until the valves of the pod have fallen. The 
pubescence of the pod consists of very short and pointed thick-based 
simple hairs. (A. Gray.) 

43. Arahis Canadensis, Linn. Common along Missouri to Fort 

Union. 

44. Arahis hirsufa. Scop. Fort Union and Bad Lands. 

45. Arahis laevigata, D. C. Shady woods to mouth of Platte. 

46. Arahis dentata, Torr. and Gray. Council Bluffs. 

47. Sisymbrium canescens, Nutt. Fort Pierre and Yellowstone. 



157 

Erysimum asperum, D. C. Abundant on the high prairiee to 
Fort Pierre and Fort Union. 

Erysimum cheircmthoides, Linn. Yellowstone and Bad Lands. 

Stanleya pinnatijida, Nutt. Abundant on the marl banks near 
Niobrara river, Fort Pierre, rarely on the Yellowstone. 

Stanleya infegrifolia, James. Dr. Gray thinks it is a different 
form of last species. 

Vesicaria ludoviciana, D. C. Sterile hills, Fort Pierre, and 
Yellowstone. 

Vesicaria alpina, Nutt. Same as preceding. 

Vesicaria didymocarpa, Hook. Bad Lands. 

Sinapis nigra, Linn. About old houses and cultivated fields, 
Council Bluffs, and Fort Pierre. 

Capsella hursa-pastoris, Linn. Same as preceding. 

Draha micranfha, Nutt. Bad Lands. 

Draha Caroliniana, Walt. Council Bluffs. 

Draha hrachycarpa, Nutt. Lower Missouri. 

Lepidium ruderale, Linn. Along Missouri to mountains. 

Lepidium Virginicum, Linn. Fort Pierre and Yellowstone. 

Cleome infegrifolia, Torr. and Gray. Bad Lands, Fort Union, 
Yellowstone, Bad Lands of Judith, Platte valley, Fort Lara- 
mie, and not a generally diffused plant, but growing abun- 
dantly in localities. 

Polanisia unigland ulosa , Gray. First seen on gravelly hills 
about Fort Pierre; also on Loup Fork. 

Viola, palmata, Linn. Fort Pierre. 

Viola cucidlata, vSit. Fort Pierre. 

Viola Nuttallii, Pursh. Bad Lands. 

Viola Canadensis, Linn. Fort Pierre. 

Viola tricolor, Linn. Council Bluffs. 

Viola delphinifolia, Nutt. Prairies around Council Bluffs. 

Silene antirrhina, Linn. Council Bluffs. 

Silene steUafa, Ait. Dixon's Bluffs. 

Ahine Michauxi, Fenzl. Mouth Big Sioux. 

Cerastium nutans, Raf. White river. Bad Lands. 

Cerasfium arvense, Linn. Council Bluffs. 

Moehringia lateriflora, Linn. Along Missouri to Council Bluffs. 

Paronychia sessiliflora, Nutt. Fort Union, Laramie Peak, 
Black Hills. 

77. Stellaria longip)es, Goldie. Council Bluffs. 

78. Fortulaca oleracea, Linn. On saline clay soil, Teton river, 

near Fort Pierre; also near base of Black Hills, (indigenous.) 

79. Claytonia Virginica, Linn. Rocky woods, as high up the Mis- 

souri as Council Bluffs. 

80. Ahutilon avicennae, Gaertn. Naturalized near Council Bluffs. 
SI. Malvastrum coccineum, Gray. Makes its appearance on the 

Missouri about latitude 43'-', and continues to the mountains. 

82. Tilia Americana, Linn. Abundant to Big Sioux; seen sparingly 

to mouth of Niobrara, where it ceases. 

83. Linum rigidum, Pursh. Throughout the prairie portion of the 

upper Missouri. 

\ 



158 

84. Linnm perenne^ Linn. Fort Pierre and Fort Union. 

85. Linnm hoott% Planchon. Found by Dr. Cooper in Kansas. 

86. Oxalis strida, Linn. Generally diffused. 

87. Oxcdis violacea, Linn. Rich prairies and cultivated fields 

around Council Bluffs; seen nearly as high as Niobrara, in 
full bloom June 20, 1857. 

88. Oxcdis cornicidafa, Linn. Upper Mo. 

89. Geranium maculafu7n, Linn. Common to Niobrara. 

90. Geranium caroliniamim, Linn. Mouth Big Sioux 

91. ImjMtiens jxdlida, Nutt. Shady woods to mountains. 

92. Impatiens fidva, Nutt. Council Bluffs and Big Sioux. 

93. Xanthoxylum Americanum, Mill. Woody bottoms, and islands 

of the Mo., to Fort Pierre. 

94. Ptelia trifoliata^ Linn. Around Council Bluffs. 

95. Rlins glabra, Linn. Council Bluffs White river valley. 

96. RMis copallina, Linn. Abundant in Mo., and Kansas. 

97. Bhus toxicodendron, Linn. Abundant in woody places to the 

mountains. 

98. Rhns arornatica, Ait. Along Mo. 

99. Hhu.s triJohata, Nutt. First makes its appearance about lat., 

43°, and occurs abundantly on sterile hills to the mountains. 

100. Vitis riparia, Michx. Banks of Mo., Bellevue, N. T. 

101. Vitis indivisa, Willd. Big Sioux river. 

102. Ampelopsis (juinque/oUa, Michx. Very common in Avoody 

bottoms throughout the country, but grows most luxuriant 
in the rich woods from mouth of Missouri to Big Sioux, 
where it often so clothes old dry trees that they seem still 
alive. 

103. Rhamniis lanceolatus, Pursh. Council Bluffs. 

104. Ceanothus sanguineus, Pursh. Mouth of White river. 

105. Ceanothus ovalis, Bigelow, var. puhescens. Common on the 

cretaceous hills below Fort Pierre; also in the sand hills 
of Loup Fork, on the Niobrara river. 

106. Celastrus saindens, Linn. Along Missouri to Fort Union. 

107. Euonymiisatropurpureus, Jacq. Woody bottoms to Fort Union. 

108. Enonymus Americamis, Linn. Mouth of Platte. 

109. Staphylea tri/oUa, Linn. Council Bluffs. 

110. ^esculus glabra, Willd. Missouri bottoms to Big Sioux river. 

111. Acer dasycarpum, Ehshart. Bellevue, Nebraska. 

112. Acer ruhrum, Linn. Highest limit on Missouri, latitude 42°. 

113. Acer saccliarinum, Wang. Limestone regions of Kansas and 

southern portion of Nebraska. 

114. Negundo aceroides, Moench. One of the few trees which ex- 

tends to the mountains. 

115. Polygcda alba, Nutt. On sterile hills to Fort Union. 

116. Polygcda verticillcda, Linn. Moist places on prairies; Fort 

Pierre; Bad lands. 

117. Polygcda senega, Linn. Council Bluffs. 

118. Vicia Americana, Muhl. Upper Missouri generally. 

119. Lcdhyrus linearis, Nutt. Upper Missouri generally. 



159 

120. Ixithyrns pohjmorphits, Nutt. White river valley. 

121. Lathyrns venosus, Muhl. Rich bottoms, Big Sioux. 

122. Phaseolus jMiici/Iorus, Bentli. Bad Lands. 

123. Amphicarpea nioiwica, Nutt. White river valley, Fort Clark. 

124. Apios tuherosa, Moencli. Along sandy woody bottoms of Mis- 

souri. A species of mouse gathers large numbers of the 
tubers of this plant for his winter store. These "caches," 
(as they are called,) are eagerly sought by the squaws, and 
the tubers taken and used as food. I have seen several 
bushels of the roots in a single lodge. Cooked with buffalo 
meat they make a very palatable dish. 

125. Glycyrhiza lepidota, Nutt. Diffused generally. 

126. Psoralca laneeolafa, Pursh. From Bellevue to Yellowstone. 

127. Psoralea florihimda, Nutt. Big Sioux river to Bad Lands. 

128. Psoralen campestris, Nutt. Bad Lands. 

129. Psoralea argophyUa, Pursh. A most beautiful plant, covering 

the plain as Avith silvery velvet. Big Sioux to mountains. 

130. Psoralea cuspidata, Pursh. Fort Pierre to Bad Lands. 

131. Psoralea escnlenta, Pursh. Affords the Indians a very nourish- 

ing farinaceous root, upon which they subsist almost entirely 
in the spring and early summer months, when game is 
scarce. It is also a great favorite of the grizVAy bear. 

132. Araorpha fruficosa, Linn. A common shrub, above Missouri 

to mountains. 

133. Amorpha canescens^ Nutt. Very abundant on the upland 

prairies, Loup Fork, and Niobrara river. 

134. Amorpha nana, Nutt. Fort Laramie and high up the Mis- 

souri. 

135. Dalea aurea, Nutt. Bad Lands. 

136. Dalea ahpecuroides, Willd. Big Sioux river. 

137. Dalea laxiflora, Pursh, Fort Pierre to Yellowstone. 

138. Petalosteimim candidwn, Mich. Big Sioux river. 

139. Petalosterrmm midtijlorurn, Nutt. Fort Pierre to Bad Lands. 

140. Petalostemum violaceitm, Mich. Upper Missouri to Bad 

Lands. 

141. Pefalostemmn villosiim, Nutt. Bad Lands. 

142. T^'ifolium stolonifernm, Muhl. Bad Lands. 

143. PrifoUum prateyise, Linn. Lower Missouri. 

144. Trifolium repens, Linn. Lower Missouri. 

145. HosacMa Purshiana, Benth. Sandy bottoms of Missouri. 

146. Astragalus hypoglottis, Linn. White river to Bad Lands. 

147. Astragalus gracdis, Nutt. Bad Lands to the Yellowstone. 

148. Astragalus striatus, Nutt. Fort Pierre to Bad Lands, cover- 

ing prairies like clover fields. 

149. Astragalus Ilissourienms, Nutt. Fort Pierre to Fort Union. 

150. Astragalus caryocarpus, Ker. Fort Pierre to Bad Lands. 

151. Astragalus Plaitensis, 'Nntt. Fort Pierre. 

152. Astragalus Canadensis, Linn. Fort Pierre to Bad Lands. 

153. Astragalus racemosus, Pursh. Abundant in the sandy bottoms 

of Missouri; Cedar island. 



160 

154. Astragalus Drummondi, Douglass. Sterile hills around Fort 

Union. 

155. Astragahis adsurgeiis, Pall. James river. 

156. Phaca caesjnfosa, Nutt. Bad lands. 

157. Phaca hngi/olia, Nutt. Bad lands. 

158. Phaca pectinata, Hook. Upland prairies on the Yellowstone 

river, abundant. 

159. Phaca elongata, Hook. Fort Pierre to Fort Union. 

160. Orytropis Lamberti, Pursh. Very abundant on praries around 

Big Sioux and Niobrara rivers. 

161. Oxytrojn'S splendens, Douglass. James river. 

162. Homalohus muUiJiorus. Nutt. Big Sioux to bad lands. 

163. Kentrophyta montana, Nutt. Abundant in sandy river bot- 

toms on the Yellowstone. 

164. Hedysarum horecde, Nutt. Abundant, mouth of Yellowstone. 

165. Desmodium Canadeiise, D. C. Fort Clark. 

166. Desmodium DiUenii, Darl. Big Sioux river. 

167. Desmodium jMniculahcni, D. C. Bellevue, W. T. 

168. Desmodium nudijlorum, D. C. Bellevue, W. T. 

169. Lespedera capiicda, Miehx. Abundant on the rich bottoms 

about Council Blufts, Big Sioux. 

170. Lespedera hirta, Ell. On Missouri. 

171. Crotalaria sagiftcdis, Michx. Big Sioux river. 

172. Lupinus pusillus^ Pursh. Common on the Yellowstone. 

173. Lupinus j^erennius^ Linn. Platte valley. 

174. Thermopsis rhomhifolia, Nutt. From Council Bluffs to Fort 

Pierre; Bad Lands, &c. 

175. Sopiliora sericea, Nutt. White River valley; Fort Pierre. 

176. Gleditschia tricantlios, Linn. Occurs as high on the Missouri 

as Big Sioux. 

177. Cercis Canadensis, Linn. Same as preceding. 

178. Cassia Chaemacrista, Linn. Sandy bottoms of Missouri, from 

Council Blufts to White river. 

179. Desmanihus hrachjlohus, Benth. Council Blufts and Platte 

valley; rich bottoms. 

180. Schrankia iincinafa, Willd. Gravelly hills on the upper Mis- 

souri generally. 

181. Oymnocladus Canadensis, Lam. Abundant in woody bottoms 

to Big Sioux. 

182. Baptisia leucophea, Nutt. Platte valley. 

183. Primus Americana, Marsh. Fort Pierre. 

184. Prunus ])umila, Linn. Abundant in the sand hills of Loup 

Fork; along Missouri river near Little Soldier's camp. 

185. Prunus serotina, Ehrh. Council Blufts. 

186. Prunus Virginiana, Linn. Generally dift'used. 

187. Gillenia stipulacea, Nutt. Mouth of Big Sioux. 

188. GiUcnia fri/oJiata, Moench. Mouth of Big Sioux. 

189. Agrimonia eupatoria, Linn. Bellevue, N. T. 

190. Agrimonia parvijlora, A\i. Around Fort Union. 



161 

191. Chaemorhodas erecta, var. Nntlallii, Torr. tt Gray. Big Bend 

and Yellowstone. 

192. Geum strictum. Ait. White river to Yellowstone. 

193. Genia album, Gmel. Fort Pierre and Mandan village. 

194. Geuia irifiornm^ Pursli. Fort Union. 

195. PoteutiUa Norvegica^ Linn. Council Blufts to Yellowstone. 

196. Potent ilia par adoxa, Nutt. Along banks of Missouri. 

197. PotentiUa effnsa^ Dougl.? Prairies near Fort Clark. 

198. PotentiUa Pennsylvanica, Linn, var. stricjosa; Bad Lands. 

199. PotentiUa diver.si folia, Lelim. Bad Lands. 

200. PotentiUa riyida, Nutt. Yellowstone. 

201. PotentiUa Canadensifi, Linn. Big Sioux river. 

202. PotentiUa anserina, Linn. Niobrara run to Fort Pierre. 

203. PotentiUa fnicticosa, Linn. On the Yellowstone. 

204. PotentiUa arguta, Pursh. Fort Clark and Fort Union. 

205. Fraejaria vesca, Linn. Along Missouri to Yellowstone. 

206. Fragaria Virginica, Elish. Fort Union. 

207. San<jmsorba, amma, Nutt. Fort Union. 

208. Euhus occidenfalis, Linn. Council Bluffs. 

209. Riibus strigosus, Mich. Sparingly on Yellowstone. 

210. Ruhus villosus, Ait. Council Bluffs. 

211. Rosa hlanda. Ait. On prairies generally. 

212. Rosa lucida, Ehrh. White river; Fort Pierre. 

213. Crcdcegus punctata, Jacq. White river; Big Bend, &c. 

214. Crcdegus tomentosa, var. mollis, Gray. Mouth of Big Sioux, 

215. Amelanchier Canadensis, Torr. and Gray. Common throughout 

the upper Missouri country; bears a delicious fruit which 
ripens in June. 

216. EpHohium august if olium, Linn. Not uncommon in Kansas, 

also near Council Bluffs. 

217. Oenothera biennis, Linn. Common along the valley of Mis- 

souri to the mountains. 

218. Oenothera albicaulis, Nutt. White river valley and Yellow- 

stone; rare. 

219. Oenothera cespitosa, Nutt. Arid hills of upper Missouri. 

220. Oenothera serridata, Nutt. Council Blufts to Fort Pierre. 

221. Oenothera pinncdifidn, Nutt. Bad Lands. 

222. Ganra biennis, Li.iU. Along Missouri to Council Bluffs. 

223. Gaura coccinea, Nutt. Common on high prairies and hills from 

Council Bluffs to the mountains. 

224. Ludwigia 'p(dustris. Ell. Wet places in Platte valley, near 

Loup Fork, 

225. Circea lutetiana, Linn. Fertile woody places along Missouri 

to Niobrara. 

226. MyriophyUum spicaturn, Linn. Common in ponds throughout 

upper Missouri. 

227. Hepparis vulgaris, Linn. In standing pools, upper Missouri. 

228. Mentzelia oniata, Torr. and Gray. Arid argillaceous hills from 

latitude 43° to the mountains. 

229. Mentzelia nuda, Torr. and Gray. Same as preceding. 

11 H 



162 

230. Opuntia 3Iissourim.s{s, D. C. Common throughout the upper 

Missouri region. 

231. Oimntia fragilis, Nutt. Peculiar to arid plains, upper Mis- 

souri. 

232. Opiintia. 

233. 3Iamiiialaris vivipara. Seen on the rich bottoms between 

Niobrara and Fort Pierre ', bears beautiful purple blossoms. 

234. Mammalaris Nuitalli, Common throughout the upper Mis- 

souri country above Fort Pierre; most abundant in White 
river valley. 

235. Rihes Missouriensis, Nutt. Woody limestone banks around 

Council Blufls. 

236. Rihes fioridum, Linn. Common on the upper Missouri and 

valley of Yellow stone. 

237. Rihes aioxum, Pursh. Banks and ravines along Missouri and 

Yellow stone. 

238. Ecldnocystis lohata, Torr. and Gray. Durions' hills on Missouri, 

239. Penthorum sedoides, Itinn. In wet places, Platte valley; mouth 

of Loup Fork. 
!240. Heuclicra Americana, Linn. Not rare in woody places along 

Missouri. 
:24L Hamamelis Virginica, Linn. Abundant in limestone Avoods 

along Missouri to mouth of the Platte river. 
"242. Zizia aurea, Koch. Prairies along Missouri to Big Sioux and 

Niobrara. 

243. Folytaenia NidtaUii, D. C. Dry argillaceous hills and upland 

prairies around Fort Pierre; also on the Yellow stone. 

244. Simn lineare, Michx. Moist places from mouth of Missouri to 

mountains. 

245. Thaspium harhinode, Nutt. Rich woody places along Missouri. 
.246. Thaspium aiireum, Nutt. Near Council Bluffs. 

:247. Peucedanum fa^nicidaceum, Nutt. Common on high prairies 

around Council Bluffs. 
l248. Osmorrhiza longistylis, D. C. Moist fertile woods to Fort 

Pierre. 

249. Osmorrhiza hrevisfylis, D. C. With the preceding. 

250. Cicuta inaculata, Linn. Wet places, Platte valley. 

25L Aralia nudicaidis, Linn. Limestone woods to Big Sioux river. 

252. Cornusflorida, Linn. Along the rich wooded bottoms as high 

as Fort Leavenworth. 

253. Cormis stolonifera, Michx. Wooded bottoms of Missouri from 

mouth to source. 

254. Corniis sericea.'Lmw. Abundant along Missouri bottoms. The 

inner bark is much used by the Sioux Lidians with their 
tobacco in proportions of three to one; called by the traders 
" red osier." 



163 

255. Sijmphoricarpus occidenfaUs, R. Br. The most abundant shrub 
along the rivers and streams from the mouth of the Missouri 
to the mountains; often called "blue wood," much used for 
making brooms; sometimes covers the river bottoms almost 
exclusively. 

■256. Lonicera eiUota, Muhl. Woodv ravines, near Council Bluffs, 
N. T. 

257. Triosteum ijerfolioium, Linn. Not rare as high up the Mis- 

souri as mouth of Big Sioux. 

258. Samhucns Canadensis^ Linn. Common along Missouri; seen iu 

the valley of Yellowstone. 

'259. Galium aparine, Linn. Woody places along Missouri. 

260. Galium trifidum^ Linn. Moist low spots on Missouri. ' 

261. Galium boreah% Linn. Same as preceding. 

262. Galium frijloruvi, Michx. Same as preceding. 

263. Ciphalanfhvs oecidenfalis, Mich. Platte valley near Loup Fork. 

264. Oldenlandia angnstifolia, Grav. Along Missouri to Council 

Bluffs. 

265. Vernoniafasciculata, Michx. Quite common on prairies, valley 

of Missouri. 

266. Kuhnia eujxiforioidcs, Linn. Council Bluffs to Niobrara. 

267. Eupaiorium per/oliatum, Linn. On rich bottom prairies near 

mouth of Big Sioux. 

268. EujMtoriwn purpmreum, Linn. Council Bluffs to James river. 

269. Eupatorium ageratoides^ Linn. Woody bottoms Council Bluffs 

to Fort Pierre. 

270. Liatris spicata, Willd. Rich bottoms. Big Sioux. 

271. Aster co7-difolius, Linn. Not uncommon. Big Sioux and Nio- 

brara. 

272. Aster saggitifolius, Willd. Big Sioux and Niobrara. 

273. Aster azuix'us, Lindl, Council Bluffs. 

274. Aster muliifiorus, Ait. Council Bluffs. 

275. Aster sericeus^ Vent. Fort Pierre. 

276. Aster Novae- Angliae, Ait. Low places on Missouri. 

277. Aster laevis, Linn. Upper Missouri. 

278. Erigeron pumilum, Nutt. High hills around Fort Pierre. 

279. Erigeron strigosum. Muhl. Low places, Vermilion Prairie- 

280. Erigeron Pliiladelphicum, Linn. Alluvial bottoms of Missouri. 

281. Erigeron Canadense, Linn. Common all over Missouri country. 

282. Aploptappus siyinulosus, D. C. High prairies of Upper Mis- 

souri. 

283. Solidago rigida, Linn. 

284. Solidago incana^ Torr & Gray. 

285. Solidago nemoralis, Ait. 

286. Solidago gigantea, Ait. 

287. Solidago 3Iissouriensis, Nutt. 

288. Grindelia sqiiarrosa, Dunal. Common on high prairies from 

lat. 43^ to the mountains; medicinal among Lidians. 

289. Chrysopsis villosa, Nutt. Common on dry hills, Fort Pierre. 



164 

290. SilpMuru laeiniatum., Linn. Called by the inhabitants of the 

country, "Compass plant;" reaches its healthiest growth 
on the rich fertile bottoms of Missouri, but often found in 
great abundance on the high prairies. The highest point on 
the Missouri river that I have observed this plant is near 
lat. 44°, mouth White river; most abundant in the Platte val- 
ley and on the broad rich bottoms betAveen Council Bluffs and 
Niobrara river, where it sometimes occupies large areas to 
the exclusion of other vegetation. That the leaves of this 
plant set their faces north and south, may be proved by a 
pocket compass. Forty-nine plants out of fifty exhibit this, 
peculiarity. It thus becomes an excellent guide to the 
traveller across the pathless prairies. 

291. Silphinni perfoliatum^ Linn. Seldom seen above Niobrara. 

292. Iva axillaris, Pursh. Dry argillaceous hills. Fort Pierre and 

Fort Union. 

293. Ambrosia trijida, Linn. Along streams and borders of woods 

from mouth of the Missouri to mountains. Quite abundant. 

294. Ambrosia coronopifolia, Torr. and Gray. Fort Pierre. 

295. Xanthium strumarium, Linn. Sandy bottoms of Yellow-stone. 

296. Echinacea purpurea, Moench. Purple cone flower; called Rattle- 

snake weed in the west, and is found abundantly through- 
out the country. Root very pungent. Used very effectively 
by the traders and Indians for the cure of the bite of the 
rattlesnake. 

297. Lepaeliys columnaris, Torr. and Gray. Common throughout 

the Missouri country, but most abundant from Council 
Bluffs to Niobrara river, on the rich broad-bottom prairies. 
In flower July 8th. Rays usually yellow, sometimes of a 
deep purple velvet. 

298. Lepaclujs pinnata, Torr. and Gray. Vermilion prairie. Rare. 

299. Rudbeclda hirta, Linn. Council Bluffs. 

300. Heliopsis leavis, Pers. Along streams in Kansas and southern 

Nebraska. 
30L Heliantlms giganteus, Linn. Common on Upper Missouri. 

302. Heliantlms gross -ser rat us, Martens. Common on prairies. 

303. Coreopsis tripteris, Linn. Council Bluffs. 

304. Goreopsis tinctoria, Nutt. James river. Big Sioux, <fec. 

305. Actinomeris squarrosa, Nutt. Common in thickets, and along 

streams in Kansas and Nebraska. 

306. Bidens connata. Muhl. Missouri, and White river Valley. 

307. Bidens Beckii, Torr. Council Bluffs. 

308. Dysodia chrysanthemoide.s, Lag. Very abundant in prairie-dog 

villages on the upper Missouri. 

309. Heleninrn autumnale, Linn. Kansas and southern Nebraska. 

310. Anthemis arvemis, Linn. Naturalized to Fort Leavenworth. 

311. Achillea millefolinm, Linn. Found all over the prairie country 

of the west; must be indigenous west of the Mississippi. 

312. Antenna ria plantaginea, R. Br. Upper Missouri and Black 

Hills. 



165 

313. Antennaria dioica, R. Br. Same as last. 

314. Artemisia /Hifolia, Ton: Gravelly hills along Platte: "Bad 

Lands."' 

315. Artemisia cana. Pursh, In the valley of Missouri and Platte. 

316. Artemisia frigida, Willd. From latitude 43° to mountains. 

317. Artemisia dracunvidoides^ Fort Pierre to Bad Lands. 

318. Arte)nisia tridentata, Nutt. Common in Bad Lands. 

319. Artemisia biennis, Willd. In Platte Valley. 

320. Artemisia Canadensis, Miclix. Near Fort Laramie. 

321. Artemisia ludoviciana, Nutt. Shyenne river. 

322. Gna]j]ialium uliginosum, Linn. Council Bluffs. 

323. Senecio aureus, Linn, Council Bluffs and Big Sioux. 

324. Senecio integerrimus, Nutt. About Council Bluffs to moun- 

tains. 

325. Linosijris graveolens, Torr. and Gray. A very common shrub 

from latitude 44° to mountains; sometimes associated with 
Sarcohatus vermimdaris, and sometimes taking its place. 

326. Cacalia tuberosa, Nutt. Not uncommon on the rich bottoms of 

the Missouri and Platte. 

327. Lygodesmia juncea, Don. A very abundant plant all over the 

sterile hills of the Upper Missouri and its tributaries; grows 
most luxuriantly on the second upland prairie. It makes 
its first appearance near Council Bluffs, and extends to the 
mountains. 

328. Oirsium altissimum, Spreng. Platte valley. 

329. Brickelia obhngifolia. Along Missouri river. 

330. Franseria ambrosioides. Cab. Sandy bottoms of the Yellow- 

stone. 

331. Sonclius asper, Vill. Council Bluffs. 

332. Midejedium pulclieUum, Nutt. Big Sioux river. 

333. Troximon cuspidatum, Pursh. Council Bluffs and Big Sioux. 

334. Lobelia cardinalis, Linn. Moist places along the Missouri to 

the Big Sioux; in Kansas, on Big Cottonwood creek. 

335. Lobelia spicata, Lam. Mouth of the Platte. 

336. Lobelia inflata, Linn. Yellow-stone valley, where it is culti- 

vated by the Crow Indians, and used in their religious 
ceremonies. 

337. Campanula rotundi/olia, Linn. Common to Fort Clark. 

338. Specidaria p)erfoliata, D. C. Throughout the LTpper Missouri 

country. 

339. Arctostaphylos nva-w'sa, Spreng. Very abundant on the high 

rocky hills about Fort Clark; also abundant in the moun- 
tains. It is the real " Kininkkinnick " of the Indians, and 
used by them to mix with their tobacco, in preference to 
any other plant. The bark of Cornvs sericea is used as a 
substitute only in the absence of the A. uva-ursi. 

340. Clnmaphila nmbcllata, Nutt. Black Hills. 

341. Diospi/ros Virginiana, Linn. Is found in Kansas. 

342. Plantago major, Linn. On river bottom near Fort Clark. 



166 

343. Planfago pafagonica,Yar., gnaphaloidcs. Very abundant in sand! 

soil and gravelly places on the Upper Missouri. 

344. Plantago 2nisiUa, Nutt. On prairies near Fort Pierre; also on 

the river opposite St. Joseph, in Kansas. 

345. Lysamaeliia sfricta, Ait. Platte valley, upon Missouri. 

346. Utricularia infaia, Walt. In ponds, Council Bluffs, White river 

valle3\ 

347. Phelipcea htdouiciana, Don. Sandy prairies, Yellowstone. 

348. Aplnjllon fasdculatum, Torr. & Gray. Great Bend of Missouri. 

349. Aphyllon uniji.orum, Torr. & Gray. Council Bluffs. 

350. ScrophuJaria nodosa, Linn. Abundant along thickets and streams, 

Kankas and Nebraska. 

351. Chelone glah7'a, Linn. Along valley of Missouri to latitude 43°. 

352. Penstemon grandifiorus, Fraser. A beautiful plant found along- 

the bluffs of the Platte, banks and sandy bottoms of Missouri 
to mountains. 

353. Pemtemon coeruleum, Nutt. Eagle Nest hill. White river valley, 

354. Penstemon crianf Juan, Nutt. Hills around Fort Pierre. 

355. Peiisfemomdbidum, 'Niitt. Low with glabrous calyx. Hills around! 

Fort Pierre. 

356. Penstemon cristatum, Nutt. On high prairies; Upper Missouri, 

357. Penstemon gracile, Nutt. Prairie bottoms, near Fort Pierre. 

358. Penstemon p)iibesc€ns, Solander. Fort Pierre; June. 

359. Penstemon levigata, Solander. Fort Leavenworth; May. 

360. Mimulns virgeus. Linn. Council Bluffs and Big Sioux. 

361. Ilimidus Jamesii, Torr. On the Platte. Dr. Cooper. 

362. Grcdiola Virginica, Linn. Quite common along the Missouri. 

363. Veronica anagallis, Linn. Common; Council Bluffs. 

364. Veronica scuteUcda, Linn. With the preceding. 

365. Veronica peregrina, Linn. Fort Pierre. 

366. Geradia purp}irca, Linn. Council Bluffs. 

367. Castilleia sessilifiora, Pursli. Common about Council Bluffs. 

368. Castilleia septentrionalis, Lindl. Black Hills. 

369. Melampyrum americanuin, Michx. Extends up the Missouri as- 

far as the mouth of the Platte. 

370. Dianthera americana, Linn. Platte valley. 

371. Verbena brctcteosa, Michx. A very common plant about prairie- 

dog villages on the upper Missouri. 

372. Verbena hastata, Linn. Platte valley. 

373. Verbena sfricta, Vent. Platte valley; July. 

374. Verbena aidjletia, Linn. Along the Missouri in Kansas. 

375. Lippia lanceolata, Michx. Fort Leavenworth, Kansas Territory. 

376. Phryma leptostachya, Linn. Not rare along the Missouri tO' 

latitude 43°. 

377. 3Ientha Canadensis, Linn. Common in wet places, valley of the 

Missouri and Platte. 

378. Lycopus sinnatus. Ell. Same as preceding. 

379. Monarda Jisttilosa, Linn. Common along streams to mountains. 

380. Hedeoma hirta, Nutt. Abundant in the prairie dog villaeeSj^ 

upper Missouri. 



167 

381. BlepJiilia ciliata, Raf. Fort Pierre to Bad Lands. 

382. Lophanthus anisatus, Benth. James river; on Missouri. 

383. Scutellaria parvida, Michx. Council Bhiffs. 

384. Tcncrium Canadense, Linn. Council Bluffs. 

385. Lifhosjxrmum canescens, Lehm. High prairies, Council Bluffs. 

386. Lithospermum latlfolium, Michx. Fort Pierre. 

387. llyosofis glomerata^ Nutt. On dry sterile hills, Fort Pierre, 

and Bad Lands. 

388. Onosmodlum Mspidum., Michx. Prairies about Leton river; 

Fort Pierre. 

389. Mertensia Virginica, D. C. Fort Pierre; in bloom April 20, 1855. 

390. Ecldnospermum patiiluin, Lehm. Prairies about Fort Pierre. 

391. Evldnospermum lappidum, Lehm. Prairies about Fort Pierre. 

392. Hydrophyllum Virginicum, Linn. Shady woods as high up 

the Missouri as mouth of White river, and in White river 
valley. Most abundant in the carboniferous limestone 
regions of Council Bluffs; April. 

393. HydrophyJlum macropliyllum, Nutt. With preceding. 

394. Ellisia oiycfclea, Linn. About old houses and gardens to Big 

Sioux, and along old roads in prairie dog villages on the 
upper Missouri. 

395. Phacelia circinata, Jacq. Li Kansas; Dr. Cooper. 

396. Phlox divaricata, Linn. Council Bluffs and Platte valley. 

397. Collomia linearis, Nutt. Common about Fort Pierre; Fort 

Union. 

398. Gilia longiflora, Torr. Li sand hills of Niobrara river. 

399. Ipomea lepttophylla, Torr. I have seen this plant in but one 

locality along the Missouri; Bear creek near "Bad Lands. "- 
But in the sand hills on Loup Fork, along the Niobrara, 
and around Fort Laramie, it is very abundant. 

400. Cuscuta glomerata, Choisy. Abundant on sandy bottoms of 

Missouri. 

401. Solanum nigrum, Michx. Not rare on the sandy bottoms of 

Missouri. 

402. Solanum triflorum, Nutt. Very abundant in prairie dog 

villages on Upper Missouri. 

403. Solanum Carolinense, Linn. Along Missouri to Council Bluffs. 

404. Physalis lanceolata, Michx. Sandy bottoms of Missouri to Fort 

Pierre. 

405. Physalis viscosa, Linn. Sandy bottoms of Missouri to moun- 

tains. 

406. Androcera lohata, Nutt. Yery abundant about old trading- 

houses, along old roads, and in prairie dog villages on 
Upper Missouri. 

407. Apocynum cannahimim, Linn. Abundant on low bottoms of 

Missouri to mountains. 

408. Asclepias macranthera, Torr. Not rare on the moist prairies- 

of upper Missouri, Loup Fork, Platte valley; July 16. 

409. Asclepias incarncda, Linn. Moist places Loup Fork, Platte.. 



168 

410. Asdepias tuhcrosa. Linn. Mouth Big Sioux, and in Platte 

valley. 

411 . Asdepias verticellata, Linn. Abundant on prairies ; Fort Pierre. 

412. Anantherix viridis, Nutt. Platte valley; Loup Fork; July 16. 

413. Acerates longi/olia, Nutt. Common around Fort Pierre. 

414. Acerates angusfifolia, Nutt. With preceding. 

415. Fraximis Americana, Linn. Generally diftused. 

416. Asarum Canadense, Linn. Near Council Blufts. 

417. Oxyhaphiis angustifolius, Torr. Dry hills around Fort Pierre. 

418. Chenopodium album, Linn. Platte valley; Fort Pierre. 

419. Ohione canescens, Moq. "Bad Lands;" common. 

420. Scdicornia herhacea, Linn. Saline places; Fort Union. 

421. Sa7xohatus vermicularis, Nees. This is one of the most 

abundant shrubs on the Upper Missouri. It makes its first 
appearance near latitude 44°, and seems to thrive best in 
the saline clays of the cretaceous and tertiary formations. 
It is sometimes called "Grease wood" by the traders, and 
is often used for fuel by them on the Yellowstone river, 
where it grows to the height of ten or twelve feet, Avith 
trunks two to three inches in diameter. On the Yellow- 
stone and along the Missouri it sometimes covers many 
square miles to the exclusion of other plants. 

422. Amaranthiis cdb2is, Linn. Sandy bottoms and shores of Missouri. 

423. Rumex 2iersirarioides, Linn. Sandy bottoms of Missouri. 

424. Bumex venosus, Pursh. Old Ponca village ; Loup Fork. 

425. Polygonum amphibium, Linn. Low wet places along Missouri. 

426. Polygonum avicidare, Linn. Council Bluffs along Missouri. 

427. Polygonum tcnve, Michx. Council BluflFs to mountains. 

428. Benzoin odoriferum, Nees. Woody bottoms along Missouri, 

below Niobrara. 

429. Sliephcrdia argentco, Nutt. Very abundant from mouth of 

Big Sioux river to the mountains. It bears a profusion of 
red acid fruit, called buffalo berries, 

430. Eleagnus argent ea, Pursh. I have seen this shrub in but one 

locality in Missouri, near Fort Clark, on the high tertiary 
hills. ■ 

431. Comandra innbdlata, Nutt. Fort Pierre and on the Yellow- 

stone. 

432. Euplioi-bia corallata. Linn. Quite common on Missouri to lati- 

tude 45°. 

433. Eiiphorbia margimifa, Pursh. A'ery abundant to mountains. 

434. Euphorbia niaculata, Linn. Same as last. 

435. EujjJiorbia polygonifolia, Linn. Along old roads. Upper Mis- 

souri. 

436. Uhnusfulva, Michx. Abundant on the rich bottoms of Mis- 

souri to Big Sioux, and ceases to appear at the mouth of 
Niobrara river. 

437. Ulmus Ameriranus, Linn. Along rivers and streams to moun- 

tains. 

438. Celtis occidentalis. Linn. Abundant near to Niobrara river. 



169 

430. Morus ruhra, Linn. Verv abundant to moutli of Big Sioux; 
Hcen sparingly and of small growth to the mountains. 

440. Urtica gracilis, Ait. Thickets and streams to Niobrara. 

441. Urtica Canadensis, Linn. Same as preceding. 

442. Parietaria Pennsylvanica, Muhl. Missouri and Yellowstone. 

443. Humidnslupnhis, Linn. Most abundant in the Upper Missouri 

country. 

444. Platanus Occident alis. Linn. Abundant on the rich bottoms of 

Missouri and Kansas; but ceases to appear about one hun- 
dred miles above Council Bluffs. 

445. Jiiglans cinerea, Linn. Bix Sioux. 

446. Jnglans nigra, Linn. Does not extend above latitude 43°. 

447. Quercus tinctoria, Bartram. Council Bluffs and Big Sioux. 

448. Quercus rubra Linn. With preceding. 

449. Quercus macrocarpa, Michx. Extends to mountains. 

450. Cori/Jus Americana, Walt. Abundant around Council Bluffs. 

451. Bet'ula. Black hills. 

452. Alnus. Black hills. 

453. Populus trenmloides, Michx. Black hills. 

454. Populus angustifolia, Torr. 

455. Populus monilif era. Ait. A large tree, constituting by far the 

greater portion of the timber along the valley of Missouri. 
45G. Salix. Several species. 

457. Pinus ponderosa, Douglass. Black hills. 

458. Abies Douglassi. Bad lands of the Judith. 

459. Juniperus Virginiana, Linn. Along Missouri to mountains. 

460. Arum friphyllum, Torr. Low ponds to Big Sioux. 

461. Arum Dracontmm, Schott. Found by Dr. Cooper in Kansas. 

462. Ti/pha hfifolia, Linn. Mouth of Platte. 

463. Sparganium ramosum, Hudson. Low places to Fort Pierre. 

464. Lemna. Common in ponds on upper Missouri. 

465. Pofamogefon ncdans, Linn. White river valley. 

466. Potamogeton p)ectinatus, Linn. Li ponds. Bad Lands. 

467. Alisma p)la.ntago, Linn. Common in ponds, upper Missouri. 

468. Sacjittaria variabilis, Engelmann. With preceding. 

469. Platanthera leucophea, Nutt. Lower Platte. 

470. Spirantlies cernua. Rich. Rich bottom prairies of Vermilion. 

471. Cypripedium pmhesceiis, Willd. Rocky banks to Big Sioux river. 

472. Cypripiediuin acaule, Ait. With the preceding. 

473. Iris versicolor, Linn. Lower Platte. 

474. SisyrincJiium anceps, Linn. Bottom prairies to Fort Pierre. 

475. HyjDoxis erecta, Linn. Council Blufts. 

476. Trillium sessile, Willd. Extends to Big Sioux. 

477. Smilax Jierbacea, Linn. Common. Mouth of Platte. 

478. Smilax rotundifolia, Linn. Along Missouri to mouth of Platte. 

479. Smilacina stelkda, Desf. Yery abundant to Niobrara, and 

occasionally seen to the mountains. 

480. Smilacina racemosa, Desf. Council Bluffs. 

481. Polygonafum gigantenm, Dietrich. Council Bluffs. 



170 

482. AUiurii Canadcnse, Linn. Big Sioux. 

483.. Allium reficulatum, Nutt. Abundant about Fort Pierre. 

484. Allium stdlatum, Nutt. Platte and Loup Fork. 

485. Lillium canadense, Linn. Big Sioux to Fort Pierre. 

486. Enjthronium americamim, Smith. Council Bluffs. 

487. Erythronium cdhidum, Nutt. Council Bluffs. 

488. Yucca angusfifolia, Sims. From the mouth of Niobrara river 

to mountains; on sterile hills. 

489. Strepto2yus amplexi/oUus, D. C. Council Bluffs. 

490. Melanildum Virginicum, Linn. Big Sioux. 

49 L Juncus tenuis, Willd. Abundant on bottoms of Missouri. 

491. Juncus 2)olyceplmlus, Michx. Bad Lands, <fec. 

493. Tradescantia Virginica, Linn. Sandy bottoms of Missouri and 

its tributaries; generally diffused. 

494. Scirpus. Many species. 

The Carices of the botanical collection were submitted to the dis- 
tinguished botanist, Professor Chester Dewey, of the University of 
Eochester, New York, who is unquestionably the best living Caricogra- 
pher in our country. Even now, at the advanced age of seventy-four 
years, his enthusiasm in his favorite departments of Natural History 
continues unabated; and that his useful life may still be spared to us 
many years to come is the earnest desire of more than one young 
student of science who have been encouraged by his kind words and 
unselfish aid to seek a recognition in the scientific world. After a 
careful examination, the following catalogue and notes were received 
from Professor Dewey: 

My Dear Sir: I enclose the list of all the Carices from Nebraska 
Territory that you placed in my hands for examination. The whole 
is a very interesting collection. I only wonder that, with your other 
objects of special attention, you were able to seize upon so many 
of these sedges; and yet I know they are only a small portion of the 
plants you have thus preserved. AVishing you all prosperity, and 
rejoicing in your perseverance and success, 
I am truly yours, 

C. DEWEY. 

Dr. F. V. Hayden. 

LIST OF NEBRASKA CARICES. 

495. Carex st raminca, Willd. Above Fort Pierre. 

var. Minor, Dew. Fort Pierre. 

49G. Carex cristata, Schm. Little Sioux river. 

497. Carex stipata, Muhl. Little Sioux river. 

498. Carex vulpinoidea, Muhl. Common. 

499. Carex mirahilis, Dew. Common. 

500. Carex cephaloidea, Muhl. Near Fort Leavenworth. 

501. Carex scirpoides, Schk. Near Fort Leavenworth. 

502. Carex festucacea, Schk. Missouri, below Fort Pierre. 

503. Carex Muldenhurghii, Schk. Missouri, below Fort Pierre. 



171 

*504. Carcx vulpina, Linn. Large and fine. Missouri, below Fort 
Pierre. 

505. Carcx fenera, Dew. Missouri, beloAv Fort Pierre. 

506. Carex hookeriana, Dew. Missouri, below Fort Pierre. 

507. Carex rosea, Schk. Southern Nebraska. 

var. radiafa, Dew. Southern Nebraska. 

508. Carex setaeea, Dew. Southern Nebraska. 

509. Carex teretuiscula, Good. Southern Nebraska. 

510. Carex scoparia, Schk. Common, 
toll. Carex ■petasaia, Dew. Upper Missouri. 
Xf>\2. Carex stenopliylla, Walil. Upper Missouri. 

513. Carex /estiva,? J) evi. (Too old to decide.) Near Fort Leaven- 
worth. 

§514. Carex DougJasli, Boott. Before credited to arctic regions. 

515. Carex leporina, Linn. Before credited to arctic regions. 

516. Carex ohtusata, Lily. Upper Missouri. 

517. Carex Nanda, Dew. Near Fort Clark. 

518. Carex anceps, Schk. Near Fort Clark. 

519. Carex Jtysferieina, Wild. Eagle-nest creek. 

520. Carex grisea, Wahl. Near Fort Leavenworth. 

521. Carex marginata, Muhl. Missouri, near Fort Pierre. 

522. Carex arctata, Boott. Missouri, near Fort Pierre. 

523. Carex cranei, Dew. Missouri river. 

524. Carex sfeudelli, Ktli. Missouri river. 

525. Carex moodii, Dew. Missouri river. 

526. Carex eburnea, Boot. Missouri river. 

527. Carex lamiginosa, Michx. Yellowstone, &c. 

528. Carex arisfcda, K. Br. "Bad Lands." 

var. longodanceolcda, Dew. "Bad Lands." 

529. Carex riparia, Good. Along Missouri. 

530. Carex trichocarjxr, Muhl. Along Missouri. 

531. Carex vesicaria, Linn. Along Missouri. 

532. Carex longirostris, Torr. Along Missouri. 

533. Carex JiUformis, Good. Eagle-nest creek. 

534. Carex acida, Linn. Eagle-nest creek. 

535. Carex vulgaris, Fries. Eagle-nest creek. 

536. Carex stricta. Lam. Eagl:e-nest creek. 

537. Carex strictior, Dew. Eagle-nest creek. 

538. Carex recta, Boott. Near Fort Pierre. 

539. Carex davisii, Torr. Yellowstone river. 

540. Carex shortiana, Dew. Along Missouri. 

NOTES BY PROF. DEWEY. 

* C. vulpina, Linn. First found in our country in Ohio, several years since, and cannot 
be confounded witli C. slipata, Mulil. It seems to abound in Nebraska, large and fine. 

t C. j'dasaia, Dew. Collected first in Arctic America, and is abundant in Nebraska. 

\C. stenophyUa, Wahl. A northern carex in Europe, and first published by Dr. Boott 
among the "Carices of British North America" as common there, and is abundant in 
Nebraska. 

§C. DauglMsi, Boott. First described in Dr. Boott's work just mentioned, but now found 
in Nebraska, which seems to have strayed, like C, Richardsoni, into our latitude. 



172 

541. Carex ampullacea, Good. Along Missouri. 

542. Carex monile, Tuckerman. Along Missouri. 

543. Carex curia, Good. YelloAvstone river. 

544. Carex Ja.custris, Willd. 

The folhivinfj sjxcies seem to be new : 

545. Carex Nebrascensis, Dew. Missouri river, near Fort Pierre. 

546. Carex Haydeni, Dew. Missouri river, near Fort Pierre. 

547. Carex Bleehii, Dew. Yellowstone river. 

548. Carex leavi-comca, Dew. Yellowstone river. 

549. Zlzania aquatica, Linn. Along Missouri, wet ponds near Coun- 

cil Bluffs. 

550. Alopccurus geniculafm, Linn. Near low wet spots on Missouri 

near Big Sioux and mouth of Loup Fork. 
55L Vilfa cuspidafa, Torr. Along Missouri river; also on high hills 
along White river. 

552. Sporobalus heterolepis, Gray. Along Shyenne river in Missouri. 

553. Agrostis micliauxiana, Torr. Bottoms of Kansas, also on James 

and Shyenne rivers, upper Missouri. 

554. Agrostis cryptandra, Torr. Banks of Little Sioux river. 

555. Middenbergia glomerata, Linn. Abundant on prairies of upper 

Missouri; wood lands, &c. 

556. Calamagrostis Canadensis, Beauv. Lower Missouri. 

557. Calamagrostis longifolia, Henk. Sandy bottoms. 

558. Calamagrostis stricta, Nutt. Along Missouri, moist places. 

559. Stipa spartea,' Linn. Prairies of upper Missouri. 

560. StijM capiUata, Linn. 

56L Stipa memhranacea. Pursh. Sandy banks of Shyenne river. 

562. Aristida jxdlens, Nutt. Sterile liills along Missouri: also on 

the Platte. 

563. Spartina cynosuroides, AVilld. Low situations on Missouri. 

564. Bouteloua oUgostachya, Torr. Upland prairies of Missouri. 

565. Sesleria dactyloides, Nutt. This is one of the most abundant 

as well as useful grasses on the Upper Missouri. It grows 
in low matted tufts, covering the prairies oftentimes for many 
miles, and furnishing a most nutritious and palatable food 
for the buffVilo, deer and other game: also for the horses of 
the Lidian and voyageur. 

566. Festuca tenella, Willd." Yalley of the Missouri. 

567. Festuva nidans, Willd. Along bottoms of Kansas. 

568. Kaleria cristata, Linn. 

569. Eatonica Pennsylvanica 

570. Poa pratensis, Linn, 

571. Poa annua, Linn. Sandy bottoms along Missouri. 

572. Poa nervata, Willd. On the Kansas. 

573. Poa nemoralis, Linn. Shady woods and ravines on Missouri. 

574. Arnndo phragmifes. Abundant in moist places around Council 

Bluffs. 

575. Ehjynus Canadensis. Linn. Wooded banks to mountains. 



173 

57G. Bruchmannia cruci/onnis, Jacq. A beautiful grass, growing 
in low moist places. I have not seen it above Fort Pierre. 

577. Uniola sfricta, Torr. Hills of the Upper Missouri. 

578. Uniola panlcidata^ Linn. Near Fort Leavenworth, K. T. 

579. Triticuni rejjois, Linn. Abundant along Missouri river. 

580. Hordemn pratense. Above Missouri river. 

58L Hordemn pnsiUuin^ Nutt. Above Missouri river. 

582. Hordeuni jidxduni^ Ait. Above Missouri river, 

583. Aiva laiifolia. Above Missouri river. 

584. Aira elongafa. Above Missouri river. 

585. Ccratochloa gramlijlora. 

586. Cenchrus fribidoides, Linn. Yery common in Kansas, and seen 

on sand bottoms in the valley of Yellowstone. 

587. Andropogonscoparius, Michx. Sandy bottoms of Missouri. 

588. Eragrostis poaoides, Beauv. Along sandy bottoms, Lower 

Missouri. 

589. 3Ionroa squarrosa, Torr. in Whipple's Report. Great Bend of 

the Upper Missouri. 

590. Equisetuni arvense, Linn. Sandy bottoms along Missouri. 

591. Equisetum hyemale, Linn. Covers large areas on sandy bet 

toms of Missouri and tributaries. 

592. Adi'anfum pedatum, Linn. Council Bluifs. 

593. Bofrychium Virgiiiicum^ Swartz. Mouth of the Platte. 



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